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Recherche par propriété

Une liste de toutes les pages qui ont la propriété « Step Content » avec la valeur « Cut out the holes on the PVC pipes, drill holes, on the circular lids. <br/> ». Puisqu’il n’y a que quelques résultats, les valeurs proches sont également affichées.

Affichage de 82 résultats à partir du n°1.

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Liste de résultats

    • My Lil' Pumpkin  + (Cut out the holes on the PVC pipes, drill holes, on the circular lids. <br/>)
    • How to make party poppers  + (Party poppers are a delightful way to add Party poppers are a delightful way to add an extra burst of fun to any occasion. Whether it's a birthday, wedding, or New Year's Eve celebration, these colorful and confetti-filled surprises can make your event even more memorable. Making your own party poppers is not only easy but also allows you to customize them to fit the theme of your celebration. In this guide, we'll walk you through the supplies needed, the step-by-step process, and some creative ideas on how to use them. == Supplies Needed for DIY Party Poppers == Before you begin crafting your party poppers, gather the following supplies: * '''1 empty paper towel tube or tissue paper roll:''' This will serve as the main body of the popper. * '''Glitter, confetti, and small party favors:''' Fill your poppers with glitter, fortunes, horoscopes, confetti, mints, funny notes, chocolate coins, or small party favors. * '''12-by-12-inch piece of wrapping or tissue paper:''' Choose a paper that matches your event's theme or color scheme. * '''Scissors:''' To cut the cardboard tube and wrapping paper. * '''Glue gun or tape:''' Secure the wrapping paper around the tubes. * '''Ribbon:''' Add a decorative touch and help secure the ends of the popper. == Step-by-Step Directions for Making Party Poppers == === 1. Prepare the Cardboard Tubes === Begin by cutting the cardboard tube in half. Next, cut one of the halves in half again, leaving you with three smaller tubes of different sizes. These will form the body of your party poppers. === 2. Fill the Tubes === Now that you have your tubes ready, it's time to fill them. Add glitter, confetti, and any small party favors you’ve selected. The contents will create the "pop" when the popper is used, so be sure to pack them well but not too tightly. === 3. Wrap the Tubes === Lay your 12-by-12-inch piece of wrapping paper face down on a flat surface. Arrange the three filled tubes in an even row at the edge of the paper, leaving about a 1/2-inch space between each tube. Carefully glue or tape the edge of the wrapping paper along the length of the tubes to secure them in place. Roll the paper over the tubes until they are fully wrapped, then trim any excess paper, including from the ends of the tubes. === 4. Add Finishing Touches === Gently twist the wrapping paper at the spaces between the tubes to create the classic party popper shape. Secure each twisted section with a piece of ribbon for a festive look. The ribbon not only adds flair but also helps hold the popper together. === 5. Display and Use Your Party Poppers === Your party poppers are now ready! You can add them to your table settings, place a bunch in a large glass bowl as a centerpiece, or hand them out to guests right before the big moment. == Tips and Variations for Creative Party Poppers == * '''Easy Breakage:''' Before giving the poppers to your guests, use a pin to poke holes around the edges of the tube. This will make it easier for the popper to break open when pulled. * '''Size Variations:''' For smaller poppers, use cardboard tubes from wrapping paper rolls instead of paper towel tubes. * '''Personalization:''' Create a personalized look by wrapping the tubes with color copies of family photos or images that match the theme of your event. == Where and How to Use Party Poppers == Party poppers are versatile and can be used in various types of celebrations. Here are some ideas for where and how to use them: === 1. '''Birthday Parties''' === Party poppers can be used when the birthday person makes a wish and blows out the candles. Alternatively, they can be given out as party favors to guests as a fun takeaway. === 2. '''Weddings''' === Instead of the traditional rice or confetti, guests can pop party poppers during the newlyweds’ send-off, creating a spectacular photo opportunity. === 3. '''New Year's Eve''' === Distribute party poppers to guests before midnight. When the clock strikes twelve, everyone can pop them to celebrate the arrival of the new year. === 4. '''Gender Reveal Parties''' === Fill the poppers with pink or blue confetti for a fun and interactive way to reveal the baby's gender to family and friends. === 5. '''Graduation Parties''' === Celebrate the graduate's achievement by popping the poppers during the ceremony or at the party. It’s a great way to mark the big moment with a burst of excitement. === 6. '''Holiday Gatherings''' === Whether it’s Christmas, Halloween, or the Fourth of July, you can customize the poppers with thematic colors and confetti to add a festive touch to your holiday celebrations. === 7. '''Engagement Parties or Proposals''' === Celebrate love with a unique twist by filling the poppers with rose petals or themed confetti. It’s a memorable way to enhance the moment. === 8. '''Retirement Celebrations''' === Mark the transition from work to retirement with the joyous noise and visual delight of party poppers. === 9. '''Anniversary Parties''' === Party poppers are perfect for any anniversary celebration, adding a joyful burst of color and fun to the occasion. === 10. '''Welcome Home Parties''' === Celebrate a loved one’s return with the cheerful explosion of party poppers, making their homecoming even more special. == Conclusion == Making your own party poppers is a fun, easy, and creative way to add an extra layer of excitement to any event. Whether you’re celebrating a birthday, wedding, or holiday, these DIY poppers can be customized to fit any theme and are sure to be a hit with your guests. So gather your supplies, follow the steps, and get ready to pop your way to a fantastic celebration! [https://www.designsforcricut.com/product/Elegant-Cricut-Catio-Designs-Custom-Monogram-for-Cat-Lovers Cricut catio designs] , [https://www.designsforcricut.com/category/monograms/3dfont Cricut 3d fonts for logos]onograms/3dfont Cricut 3d fonts for logos])
    • Showerloop - Guide 3: Connecting the pipes  + (Basics - heat up your copper pipe with a bBasics - heat up your copper pipe with a blowtorch. Focus the flame on the areas above and below where you will do the bending so that part doesn’t get hotter and thus weaker than the rest of the steel. Once the copper turns blackish and starts making a cool psychedelic rainbow effect you know the copper is warm enough to begin bending. Turn off the flame and wait a moment. Once the pipe has cooled a little use the pipe bending tool so make an appropriate bend. This is more craft than technical skill and you just have to observe and see how the metal flexes.
      Don’t put too much pressure on one spot, this may result in a distorted pipe. You want to keep the diameter of the inner pipe as even as possible. Use a pipe bending tool.
      r of the inner pipe as even as possible. Use a pipe bending tool.</div> </div>)
    • How to Use a Polishing Machine: A Step-by-Step Guide  + (Before using a polishing machine, it is esBefore using a polishing machine, it is essential to take safety precautions to prevent accidents. Always wear protective gear such as safety glasses, a dust mask, and gloves to protect your eyes, lungs, and skin from the dust and debris generated during polishing. Additionally, ensure that the work area is well-ventilated to prevent dust buildup and minimize the risk of fire hazards. Finally, disconnect the power supply before changing any polishing wheels or performing maintenance on the machine. or performing maintenance on the machine.)
    • Build a Longboard from Scratch in Your Own Home  + (Before you start putting together your lonBefore you start putting together your longboard, you'll need to do some cutting and drilling. Begin by cutting your threaded rods into two pieces, each 8 inches long. Use a fret file to smooth out the rods, which are 5/16" x 12" inches in size. Next, apply grip tape to the board. Cut the grip tape to be about one centimeter wider than the board, then press it onto the board and trim off any excess. With your 6º wedge riser, mark where you'll drill to attach the INOX Allen bolts, which are 1/4" x 1.5" in size. Ensure the marks are centered on the ends of your board. Safety is crucial, so wear gloves and safety glasses during this process. Carefully drill four holes, making sure they are clean and precise. We used a 3D-printed part to help us drill the holes in the cap perfectly centered. If you'd like access to the design for this part, please let us know, and we'll share it with you. Finally, position the drill in the middle of your 1" cap and drill each hole carefully. The 1" cap should have a similar appearance to the one shown in the image. appearance to the one shown in the image.)
    • SolarOSE - Guide 6: Absorber tube  + (Cut a brass tube with an exterior diameterCut a brass tube with an exterior diameter of 55 mm and a length of 1900 mm. The pipe is originally shiny. Weld the fittings on the edges, according to the photo. Make sure one fitting is at the bottom, and the other one at the top: this enables to feed liquid water from the lower part and extract water vapor from the top. Once the pipe is welded, you need to darken its external surface, so it becomes as absorptive (black) as possible. This is very important as we want as much solar light to be absorbed on the pipe to heat the water inside. Apply an oxidizing solution suitable for brass (easily available on the market). Let the oxidizing solution dry for a couple of days if possible. Remove the traces of the oxidizing solution with a wet paper. Or just follow the instructions on your oxidizing solution.e instructions on your oxidizing solution.)
    • SolarOSE - Guide 6: Absorber tube  + (Cut a brass tube with an exterior diameterCut a brass tube with an exterior diameter of 55 mm and a length of 1900 mm. The pipe is originally shiny. Weld the fittings on the edges, according to the photo. Make sure one fitting is at the bottom, and the other one at the top: this enables to feed liquid water from the lower part and extract water vapor from the top. Once the pipe is welded, you need to darken its external surface, so it becomes as absorptive (black) as possible. This is very important as we want as much solar light to be absorbed on the pipe to heat the water inside. Apply an oxidizing solution suitable for brass (easily available on the market). Let the oxidizing solution dry for a couple of days if possible. Remove the traces of the oxidizing solution with a wet paper. Or just follow the instructions on your oxidizing solution.e instructions on your oxidizing solution.)
    • SolarOSE - Guide 2: Mirror facets  + (Cut to a length of 2000 mm the aluminum tubes of 40x20 mm (or buy them with these dimensions). Drill a hole of 5 mm centered on the width, at 100 mm from each extremity. Tap (thread) this hole, made for a screw with a diameter of 6 mm (M6).)
    • SolarOSE - Guide 2: Mirror facets  + (Cut to a length of 2000 mm the aluminum tubes of 40x20 mm (or buy them with these dimensions). Drill a hole of 5 mm centered on the width, at 100 mm from each extremity. Tap (thread) this hole, made for a screw with a diameter of 6 mm (M6).)
    • SolarOSE - Guide 3: Support structure of the receiver  + (Cut at a length of 2300 mm 4 square tubes:Cut at a length of 2300 mm 4 square tubes: a right cut and a 45° cut. Drill the holes according to the 3D model in order to assemble the legs of the “tepee” (1 hole/square tube), the receiver’s fixation (1 hole/square tube), the fixation of the inferior square tube across the length (2 holes/square tube), the fixation of the transversal flat (1 hole/ square tube, 800mm from the bottom, measured at the furthest point of the 45° cut). Check the total length of the square tube: the length necessary to drill the holes is measured from the bottom of the leg. Cut 4 flats with 30 mm large, 40 mm long and 5 mm thick and check the dimensions. Drill and tap the flats at 10 mm from the edges to fix an adjustable leg made of a screw with a diameter of 8 mm. Weld the flats on the edges cut at 45°. By doing this, an adjustable horizontal leg is obtained. an adjustable horizontal leg is obtained.)
    • SolarOSE - Guide 3: Support structure of the receiver  + (Cut at a length of 2300 mm 4 square tubes:Cut at a length of 2300 mm 4 square tubes: a right cut and a 45° cut. Drill the holes according to the 3D model in order to assemble the legs of the “tepee” (1 hole/square tube), the receiver’s fixation (1 hole/square tube), the fixation of the inferior square tube across the length (2 holes/square tube), the fixation of the transversal flat (1 hole/ square tube, 800mm from the bottom, measured at the furthest point of the 45° cut). Check the total length of the square tube: the length necessary to drill the holes is measured from the bottom of the leg. Cut 4 flats with 30 mm large, 40 mm long and 5 mm thick and check the dimensions. Drill and tap the flats at 10 mm from the edges to fix an adjustable leg made of a screw with a diameter of 8 mm. Weld the flats on the edges cut at 45°. By doing this, an adjustable horizontal leg is obtained. an adjustable horizontal leg is obtained.)
    • My Lil' Pumpkin  +
    • Fibonacci Clock  + (Cut 4 plywood board for outside walls, 2 oCut 4 plywood board for outside walls, 2 others for bottom and double-bottom, and 4 littles more for inside walls to split squares. Dimensions are the following : For outside walls : * 2 boards 85mm * 221mm * 2 boards 85mm * 138mm for bottom and double-bottom : * 2 boards 128mm * 211mm for inside walls: * 1 board 50mm * 128mm * 1 board 50mm * 78mm * 1 board 50mm * 50mm * 1 board 50mm * 26mm 1 board 50mm * 50mm * 1 board 50mm * 26mm)
    • SolarOSE - Guide 4: Skeleton of the receiver  + (Cut the 30x30x2300 mm square tube. Drill the fixation holes of the tepee. Drill and tap at 5 mm diameter the fixation holes of the junction.)
    • SunZilla - Guide 1: Preparing the aluminium profiles  + (Cut the aluminum profiles according to the technical drawings in the attached PDFs. Once you have them in hand, the first step is to file the ends of the profiles to deburr them, as shown in the picture.)
    • Solar coffee roaster (using a Scheffler concentrator)  + (Cut the bars, the flats and the L profile angle at the lenghts marked in the following table (see image of table).)
    • Solar coffee roaster (using a Scheffler concentrator)  + (Cut the bars, the flats and the L profile angle at the lenghts marked in the following table (see image of table).)
    • Standing desk made from 2x12’ wood board and plumbers pipe  + (I cut the boards to the finish length of 5’6” using a speed square to make sure I was getting a perfect right angle cut.)
    • Standing desk made from 2x12’ wood board and plumbers pipe  + (I cut the boards to the finish length of 5’6” using a speed square to make sure I was getting a perfect right angle cut.)
    • Spinning Kinetic Sculpture RGB  + (Cut the first svg file on 2 sheets of 300cCut the first svg file on 2 sheets of 300cmx300xm [[:Fichier:DecoupePart1.svg|DecoupePart1.svg]]. Do the same for the second file [[:Fichier:DecoupePart2.svg|DecoupePart2.svg]]. The cutting file is about 300cm by 300cm so if you have a 600x300 you can cut them two by two by merging the files. Bring together similar pieces so it's easier to work.her similar pieces so it's easier to work.)
    • SolarOSE - Guide 7: Assembling of the receiver  + (Cut the squared tube at a length of 2.2 m. Put the 10 hangers on the squared tube, with a spacing of 22 cm.)
    • Tree planting (Aranya Agricultural Alternatives method)  + ( *Define the plantation zone, *Make sure t *Define the plantation zone, *Make sure that your sapling is ready for transplantation, *Make sure that weather conditions will be favorable for the young tree to grow (avoid dry season peak), *If applicable, [[Clay-pot-irrigation system (Aranya Agricultural Alternatives method)|build your clay-pot irrigation system]], *If applicable, [[Tree planting preparation (Sadhana Forest method)|build your bottle-irrigation system]]. Feel free to adapt the procedure to your environment. to adapt the procedure to your environment. )
    • Robot "ABC" in wood  + (<div class="mw-translate-fuzzy"> Let's start with the base by adding support with it's stack connected to the 3 green LEDs. </div> <div class="mw-translate-fuzzy"> Take 4 screws M4 insert them in the 4 holes then fix 1 nut on each screws. </div>)
    • MicroHouse  + (Download on our [https://github.com/wikihoDownload on our [https://github.com/wikihouseproject/Microhouse/ Github repo] the set of milling drawings which can be used by CNC cutter to fabricate the house parts. Cut the part by a CNC mill using locally bought material. This is 18mm plywood, in the standard sheet size of 2440mm x 1220mm (8' x 4') Each component can be combined or adapted to form a structure which responds to an individual site or set of needs.nds to an individual site or set of needs.)
    • Showerloop - Guide 4: Make the backplate  + (To fit inside the existing frame I had to bevel my 20mm plywood to half way. By clamping a straight piece of material onto the edge I could simply push against it with the router while moving laterally to get a clean and straight cut.)
    • Showerloop - Guide 4: Make the backplate  + (To fit inside the existing frame I had to bevel my 20mm plywood to half way. By clamping a straight piece of material onto the edge I could simply push against it with the router while moving laterally to get a clean and straight cut.)
    • FabCat House  + (Follow the steps to assembly the object, it shouldn't take you long. If the thickness of the planks is right, you shouldn't need to use any glue.)
    • FabCat House  + (Follow the steps to assembly the object, it shouldn't take you long. If the thickness of the planks is right, you shouldn't need to use any glue.)
    • Salad tongs  + (For the functional tongs, I use a large chFor the functional tongs, I use a large chunk of basswood. I drew out the spatula-like shape on the face and cut the thick piece of wood on the band saw. I then turned the piece on its side and resawed the basswood into my two handles. These two halves were still pretty thick and the shape was not yet finalized, all of that would be done with the sanders.ll of that would be done with the sanders.)
    • Salad tongs  + (For the functional tongs, I use a large chFor the functional tongs, I use a large chunk of basswood. I drew out the spatula-like shape on the face and cut the thick piece of wood on the band saw. I then turned the piece on its side and resawed the basswood into my two handles. These two halves were still pretty thick and the shape was not yet finalized, all of that would be done with the sanders.ll of that would be done with the sanders.)
    • 8bits & Chocolate - decorative candy dispenser  + (For the modules assembly I suggest that you refer to the PDF files. You'll find the pieces numbering and how to assemle them (with a few additional hints))
    • Plastic Extrusion Machine  + (Get the metal sheet plates. Take measurements following the blue prints and cut the sheets with a grinding machine and sand metal edges.)
    • Plastic Extrusion Machine  + (Get the metal sheet plates. Take measurements following the blue prints and cut the sheets with a grinding machine and sand metal edges.)
    • Showerloop - Guide 2: Filters  + (Laser cut or CNC the files in [http://googLaser cut or CNC the files in [http://google.com this pdf]. Since laser cutters handle cutting a bit differently there may be come problems with the file. Generally red / hairlines (0.001mm) is for cutting and black is for engraving.
      If you don’t have access to a laser cutter or CNC machine, a manual router can be used to cut out the groove in the filter and the whole shape if need be. To cut a perfect circle with a router a special tool may need to be made (look for circle jig on youtube).
      The lids and mounting plates can also be a single piece if you are using thick material. Four 10cm diameter x 50cm filters are required to have an appropriate flow rate of 10l/min. With 6.6l/min two filters are sufficient and 1 filter for 3.3l/min. The surface area is more important than the length of the filter because that determines the flow rate through the filter and thus reaction times. I use 10mm thick acrylic sheets for the lid and compression disks but I have used 4-5mm acrylic sheets in previous prototypes and glued them together with decent results.
      d 4-5mm acrylic sheets in previous prototypes and glued them together with decent results.)
    • Showerloop - Guide 3: Connecting the pipes  + (Lay out all the filter components onto a surface. Using common sense and a ruler you can centre everything perfectly.)
    • ZipStich Chair with plywood pieces and zip ties  + (Measure and mark the plywood with a pencil.)
    • ZipStich Chair with plywood pieces and zip ties  + (Measure and mark the plywood with a pencil.)
    • Communication Dish  + (Measure and sketch the correct measurements required to make the dish on the plywood.(The measurement should be precisely done as this affects how the dish will turn out))
    • Potato Tower  + ( #If necessary, collect the stones (see '' #If necessary, collect the stones (see ''"Gather construction material"''), #Collect the potato eyes, #Collect the soil, #If available, collect the compost or other organic fertilizer solution you want to use for your potatoes, #If necessary and possible, already collect mulching material (corn stalks, rice hulls, hay, straw, dry leaves, BRF …); rice hulls, hay, straw, dry leaves, BRF …); )
    • Potato Tower  + ( #If necessary, collect the stones (see '' #If necessary, collect the stones (see ''"Gather construction material"''), #Collect the potato eyes, #Collect the soil, #If available, collect the compost or other organic fertilizer solution you want to use for your potatoes, #If necessary and possible, already collect mulching material (corn stalks, rice hulls, hay, straw, dry leaves, BRF …); rice hulls, hay, straw, dry leaves, BRF …); )
    • PP Shredder Pro  + (<nowiki>====Tools====<br />non====Tools====
      none
      ====Parts====
      1110.08 - Bearing Side Plate 4

      1110.09 - Bearing Side Plate 5

      1110.10 - Bearing Side Plate 6

      1110.11 - Gear Plate

      1110.01 - Top Plate

      ====Steps====

      #Layout the remaining pies as seen in image 1.
      #Slide plate 1110.08 directly on top of piece 1110.07
      #Drop in plate 1110.09 directly next to 1110.07/.08 in the open tabs.
      #Place the bottom tabs of plate 1110.10 into the bottom plate, and then fold the plate upwards into place.
      #Place plate 1110.11 on top as seen in image 5.
      #Place plate 1110.01 on top, securing the entire box in place.

      *Note - in the next steps, you will dismantle these last few steps, but it is important to understand how the box comes together.


      t;br /><br/></nowiki>)
    • Laser cut Spirograph  + ( * Open a new document in tinkercad * Select view TOP * ''Switch to Orthographic view'' ''Always use Shift plus Right-click to move the workplane.'' ''Use the Mouse-wheel to zoom-in zoom-out.'' )
    • People pedal powered computer charger  + (People pedal power is a form of renewable People pedal power is a form of renewable energy. One human can produce around 75W electric power sustained for about 15min, or 50W during a longer period. This is enough power to be able to charge an average laptop. This energy can be harvested on a PPP device. To find out more about People Pedal Power, visit our site https://ciklic.wordpress.com/2017/08/05/renewable-energy-what-can-you-expect/8/05/renewable-energy-what-can-you-expect/)
    • SunZilla - Guide 4: Solar box  + (To physically anchor the the boxes togetheTo physically anchor the the boxes together, the joins need to be added. The joins hold the boxes in place on a wooden foot structure. This structure can be CNC-milled with the provided .DMX source file, which you can download below. You can also old-school wood-craft them, following the .PDF technical drawing, also downloadable below. After milling the foot structure, put the boxes in their places and drill 4 holes through the outside bottom rim of each box and the underlying wooden structure. Using these holes, the different parts are connected by a bent bicycle spoke. The shape of the spoke can be seen in the following figure. The shape of the spoke can be seen in the following figure bellow. The height of the “mouth” of the bent spoke depends on the thickness of the wooden foot (see diagram). It should 2-4 mm less than the added thickness of the box and the wooden foot. To bend the spoke, start from one side of the spoke and do one bending after the other by holding the spoke with pliers and bending then the longer end of the spoke with your hand in the shape you like.poke with your hand in the shape you like.)
    • Basic Multi-Modular Frames for Cargo Bikes - Stackable watertight laser cut boxes by Velo M2  + (Prepare and set the parameters of the Laser Cutter to cut through 10mm plywood. Check you parameters and make a few test to find the good settings. This is dependent on the type of machine.)
    • SunZilla - Setup manual  + (Press the cable inside when both white points match and turn the blue top unit of the cable to lock.)
    • SunZilla - Setup manual  + (Press the cable inside when both white points match and turn the blue top unit of the cable to lock.)
    • Desk lamp in wood and concrete  + (Put a mark on the batten, to cut it in 2 battens of 44cm length)
    • Desk lamp in wood and concrete  + (Put a mark on the batten, to cut it in 2 battens of 44cm length)
    • Humanure Dry Toilets, low-tech tricks  + (Refer to the pictures available in the galRefer to the pictures available in the gallery. Proceed as follows to build you own Humanure Dry Toilets. = Required Conditions = *Team: **Two *Required skills: **Basic carpentry skills to properly use the tools *Duration: **Two hours *Preliminary requirements: **NA (except acquire the necessary parts and consumables)quire the necessary parts and consumables))
    • Humanure Dry Toilets, low-tech tricks  + (Refer to the pictures available in the galRefer to the pictures available in the gallery. Proceed as follows to build you own Humanure Dry Toilets. = Required Conditions = *Team: **Two *Required skills: **Basic carpentry skills to properly use the tools *Duration: **Two hours *Preliminary requirements: **NA (except acquire the necessary parts and consumables)quire the necessary parts and consumables))
    • 3D CNC milling avec CAM Fusion 360  + (<section class="step"><br />Be

      Before beginning CAM programming, you need to consider the part and the best approach to machining. These decisions depend on the shape of the model, the material, and the constraints of the CNC machine you are using. In this lesson, you will learn how these factors impact your machining strategy with respect to workholding, registration (making sure the CNC knows where the part is), and CAM settings.

      3D Toolpathing

      If you completed the CAD and CAM Class, you worked with 2D toolpaths, in which the end mill stays at a fixed depth (Z-level) throughout a machining pass, moving only in X and Y while cutting. This type of machining is ideal for prismatic parts - parts in which all machined faces lie normal to the machine tool spindle.

      When programming non-prismatic parts, such as molds or organic shapes like the the parts below, 2D operations are insufficient. You need to use 3D CAM operations, in which the end mill moves dynamically in X, Y, and Z.

      Workholding

      Workholding is the strategy for holding your part rigidly during the machining process. When programming with 3D toolpaths, workholding is an important initial consideration. This is especially true of parts that require machining on both sides, when the part will be flipped between setups.

      When programming for prismatic parts, you may have noticed that 2D and 2.5D CAM only requires a CAD model of the part that you want to machine, without any extra features for workholding attachment or registration. This is because the part takes the shape of a rectangular prism, which can be held easily inside a vise or fixed to a spoiler board.

      But what do you do when your shape is more organic or irregular, and also must be flipped to machine on both sides? In this case, you need to model additional material that will hold your part inside a vise, against a spoiler board, or flat against the bottom of the machine. It's very hard to program the CAM without having these features incorporated into your model.

      In other words, 3D flip machining requires that you model the stock you want left behind, as well as tabs to prevent your part from coming loose inside the machine. These tabs will be cut off and sanded down after machining, usually with a bandsaw and disk sander.

      Note: Another, more advanced, technique for workholding for irregular shapes in metal is a soft jaw system. You would machine your own custom aluminum jaws to use with a Lang or Kurt vise, and these custom jaws would hold your part after the flip. No tabs needed.

      For your serving spoon, you will have two tabs--one on each end--and a rectangular prism of stock that will hold the spoon flat after the flip. When modeling, it's a good idea to make your stock and tabs another body, separate from your part.

      Registration

      Because the spoon will be machined from both sides (flip machining), you need a way to ensure that the CNC machine can locate the part accurately after it has been moved. This is called registration.

      If you have used the Haas before, you're familiar with using a probe to locate your part . The DMS, however, like many table routers, does not have a probe. When using the DMS to locate the origin of your Work Coordinate System (Work Home), you will insert a tool into the spindle and jog it to the correct location. It's common to trap a piece of paper between the stock and the tool to ensure that Z is correct. In the DMS machine class you will learn how to enter the codes to set your WCS in this way. As you might imagine, this system is not accurate, because you're just "eyeballing" this location.

      This means that if you have a part that requires flip machining, you need to consider how to get the two sides to line up properly with one another. There are lots of options, and they all have advantages and disadvantages based on the specifics of your part. Some common methods include:

      --Attaching stops to your spoiler board (waste board under your part that can be machined) or machine bed

      --Machining a contour into your spoiler board, then placing your stock exactly inside that contour

      --Drilling holes for dowels that go into the spoiler board beneath your part (most accurate)

      This final technique is the the method you will use for the spoon. While machining the front side of the spoon, you will also drill three holes through the stock and partially into the spoiler board. After you flip your part, you will insert dowels through the holes and into the spoiler board that will align your part perfectly with your first side.

      CAM Settings

      The specifics of the project - machining wood on the DMS router - will also determine some of the choices you make when programming toolpaths.


      
-Tool numbering

      If you are a Pier 9 shop user, you will be using the DMS tool library. When you have simulated and finalized your CAM program, make sure that your tools are labeled in the chronological order that they are used. You will learn later in this class how to edit tool numbers.

      Remember that the chronological tool numbers in your program do not correspond to the numbers in the DMS tool library drawer. For instance, the fifth tool you use in your program might be the 1" Rough Short End Mill, which is labeled #34 in the DMS library. You will see the DMS library number in the comment for each tool, which will appear in your setup sheet (machining plan). You will learn later how to generate setup sheets.

      If you are not using Pier 9's DMS, you'll either be using custom tools, or tools from your own tool library. If using your own library, be sure to label your tools in the chronological order they will be used.

      -Rules for roughing

      Machining in wood or plastic on the DMS is not high speed machining (HSM). This means that you may use Adaptive toolpaths for roughing, but you cannot use the whole length of the cutter.

      When machining wood or plastic, follow the Stepover and Stepdown Rule: The stepover and stepdown should never exceed 50% of the tool diameter.
      lt;br />Machining in wood or plastic on the DMS is not high speed machining (HSM). This means that you may use Adaptive toolpaths for roughing, but you cannot use the whole length of the cutter.<br /><br />When machining wood or plastic, follow the Stepover and Stepdown Rule: The stepover and stepdown should never exceed 50% of the tool diameter.<br /></section>)
    • PP Shredder Basic  + (1/2" Socket wrench 11/16" Socket" 6mm Allen/Hex Wrench Locking Pliers Adjustable pliers Metal File Screwdriver <br/>)
    • OpenReflex: 3D Printed Camera  + (1- Start by putting the two M3 hexagonal n1- Start by putting the two M3 hexagonal nuts in the holes provided for on the Body. It's a tight fit, so you'll need to push a bit. You can screw a screw from the other side for pull the nut. 2- Install the BackCover on its axis and insert the nut & bolt. The BackCover should fit nicely and rotate freely on its axis. Also set the BackShutter on his groove on the Body. 3- Put the UnwinderP2 and the UnwinderButton in place in the Cover. They should rotate, but not too much. 4- Set the Unwinder and the two FilmGuides in place in the Body. Put the Cover over all of this. You'll have to turn the UnwinderButton to align it with the Unwinder. Note : If the FilmGuide don't rotate on their axis it's not a problem. 5- Once everything is in place, put squared nuts in the columns and screw them in place through the Cover. 6- Algih the BackCover with the Cover and screw them together. Everything should fit in place, the UnwinderButton should make the Unwinder turn with some friction and the BackShutter should slide on its groove. All done ! For the Rewinder and the final light proofing we'll see this later. ;) final light proofing we'll see this later. ;))
    • OpenReflex: 3D Printed Camera  + (1- Start by putting the two M3 hexagonal n1- Start by putting the two M3 hexagonal nuts in the holes provided for on the Body. It's a tight fit, so you'll need to push a bit. You can screw a screw from the other side for pull the nut. 2- Install the BackCover on its axis and insert the nut & bolt. The BackCover should fit nicely and rotate freely on its axis. Also set the BackShutter on his groove on the Body. 3- Put the UnwinderP2 and the UnwinderButton in place in the Cover. They should rotate, but not too much. 4- Set the Unwinder and the two FilmGuides in place in the Body. Put the Cover over all of this. You'll have to turn the UnwinderButton to align it with the Unwinder. Note : If the FilmGuide don't rotate on their axis it's not a problem. 5- Once everything is in place, put squared nuts in the columns and screw them in place through the Cover. 6- Algih the BackCover with the Cover and screw them together. Everything should fit in place, the UnwinderButton should make the Unwinder turn with some friction and the BackShutter should slide on its groove. All done ! For the Rewinder and the final light proofing we'll see this later. ;) final light proofing we'll see this later. ;))
    • Showerloop - Guide 1: Overview  + (So the main components of the filter are tSo the main components of the filter are the pump, filter housing with the sand and activated carbon filter and the uv-lamp. Large particles like skin cells are trapped by a layer of compressed sand. Finer particles are adsorbed by a layer of compressed activated carbon, including some chemicals like nitrates (in sweat), sulphates (in soap), chlorine and fluorine (in tap water). Finally the UV-lamp is used to sterilize the water so that bacteria can no longer reproduce. It might not seem like a big deal since our bodies are covered in bacteria but the main concern is bacteria from your bum coming into contact with your eyes.ur bum coming into contact with your eyes.)
    • Showerloop - Guide 1: Overview  + (So the main components of the filter are tSo the main components of the filter are the pump, filter housing with the sand and activated carbon filter and the uv-lamp. Large particles like skin cells are trapped by a layer of compressed sand. Finer particles are adsorbed by a layer of compressed activated carbon, including some chemicals like nitrates (in sweat), sulphates (in soap), chlorine and fluorine (in tap water). Finally the UV-lamp is used to sterilize the water so that bacteria can no longer reproduce. It might not seem like a big deal since our bodies are covered in bacteria but the main concern is bacteria from your bum coming into contact with your eyes.ur bum coming into contact with your eyes.)
    • DIY Custom NeoPixel Rings From Scratch!  + (The next step in making your printed circuThe next step in making your printed circuit board is making your connections between your LEDs. NeoPixels each have one data-input pad and one data-output pad. First create a long chain starting with the pixel closest to where you plan on placing your interface pins, going from one pixel's data-out pin to the next pixel's data-in pin. After that you'll need to route power and ground. The easiest method I have come up with to do this is to use a combination of circles and semi-circles, four in total, alternating between power and ground as you move outward from the origin. This makes it easy to create a small "jumper" connection as apposed to manually wiring every since LED together, twice. The two pairs of circles/semi-circles can then be tied together whichever way is most convenient. Finally, a copper pour is added. This essentially just causes all extra space to be filled by "ground", which has multiple advantages including being easier to manufacture at home. You will also want to install one roughly .1uf capacitor between power and ground between each set of two LEDs. The manufacture recommends one per LED however its likely one per two will do and they are time consuming to solder. These are not necessary for the functionality of the device, they simply improve the lifespan of the LEDs, so they can be ignored if needed.he LEDs, so they can be ignored if needed.)
    • DIY Custom NeoPixel Rings From Scratch!  + (The next step in making your printed circuThe next step in making your printed circuit board is making your connections between your LEDs. NeoPixels each have one data-input pad and one data-output pad. First create a long chain starting with the pixel closest to where you plan on placing your interface pins, going from one pixel's data-out pin to the next pixel's data-in pin. After that you'll need to route power and ground. The easiest method I have come up with to do this is to use a combination of circles and semi-circles, four in total, alternating between power and ground as you move outward from the origin. This makes it easy to create a small "jumper" connection as apposed to manually wiring every since LED together, twice. The two pairs of circles/semi-circles can then be tied together whichever way is most convenient. Finally, a copper pour is added. This essentially just causes all extra space to be filled by "ground", which has multiple advantages including being easier to manufacture at home. You will also want to install one roughly .1uf capacitor between power and ground between each set of two LEDs. The manufacture recommends one per LED however its likely one per two will do and they are time consuming to solder. These are not necessary for the functionality of the device, they simply improve the lifespan of the LEDs, so they can be ignored if needed.he LEDs, so they can be ignored if needed.)
    • Marble Machine No 1 Motor Assembly Instructions  + (The parts can be glued together in one go The parts can be glued together in one go and the parts held in place with rubber bands  The bottom '''should not '''be glued but can be used to hold parts aligned while the glue dries. The bottom is left loose for access to switch and batteries. If you don't want the text to be visible, simply turn the part so it face inwards. When viewed from the front the holes for the motor mount (circled in red) should face left as shown in the picture below.d face left as shown in the picture below.)
    • PiKon telescope  + (The PiKon telescope is a robust design butThe PiKon telescope is a robust design but there are two issues that need care if you are to get the most out of your project. '''Dust and the Camera Sensor''' PiKon benefits from a very simple design that has just one optical component. The lens of the Raspberry Pi Camera is removed to allow imaging by the Optical Mirror. This means that the Raspberry Pi Camera sensor is exposed to dust and dirt. Adding sensor protection would add two optical surfaces to the design, so the sensor is left exposed. This is not a problem provided care is taken to avoid dust and dirt getting on the sensor. '''Care of the Mirror''' As with all reflecting telescopes, care must be taken to avoid damaging the mirror. When assembling or modifying the telescope be careful not to let components drop down the Telescope Tube onto the Mirror.p down the Telescope Tube onto the Mirror.)
    • Showerloop - Guide 2: Filters  + (There are 2 lids per filter, the top lid aThere are 2 lids per filter, the top lid and bottom lid - duh. A hex nut is used to fasten the hose nipple (facing away from the filter) to the filter lid. The dimensions of hex nuts and/or hose nipples may vary regionally so it's best to get them first,check the measurements and modify the file if needed. In the picture of the lid only a circle was etched/milled into the acrylic lid to fit the hex nut but the design was later revised to have the shape of the hex nut itself, thereby fastening it to the lid so that it could no longer rotate (and prevent fastening) when adding the hose nipple on the outer side of the lid. hose nipple on the outer side of the lid.)
    • Nutridome I SDG 11 I South Africa  + (This is a PVC pipe that has been drilled wThis is a PVC pipe that has been drilled with holes we were going to use disposable plastic cups but we found some plastic growing cups in the store room and we used those. for this demonstration we are using an ordinary aquarium pump and pipes for the water flow. The bucket is just a normal bucket. The dome was made from 25mm PVC electrical wiring pipes. The dome was inspiration for the idea as we saw it at the Centre and realised its potential. the PVC pipes are held together with cable ties, glue and connectors. The shading is normal garden shade and plastic sheeting can be placed over the structure to create more controlled environments. This will be when you have put the hydroponic system with lighting inside the dome we just wanted to illustrate the look for the final product of the dome.he look for the final product of the dome.)
    • PP Sheetpress  + (====Tools==== same as above ====Parts========Tools==== same as above ====Parts==== 36 corner brackets ====Steps==== # Prepare your parts. Each "cell" will require 4 brackets, 16 M8Bolts, and 16 washers # Starting with the 4 corners of the ''entire assembly'', attach the corner brackets and tighten the bolts only to finger-tight. # Next attach the 920 beam ends to the outer perimeter. # Next, attach the inner beams in place. Ensure that all beams are equally spaced. (remember that the 2 interior beams are shorter though)
      interior beams are shorter though) <br/>)
    • PP Extruder Pro  + (==== Tools ==== 1/2" Socket ==== Parts ====== Tools ==== 1/2" Socket ==== Parts ==== 2x 1000mm 4080 extrusion 4x 300mm 4040 extrusion 40x t-nuts 22x M8x20 bolts 22x M8 Washers 12x Corner Brackets
      ==== Steps ==== # Slide 6 t nuts into the top side of the 1000mm extrusion. (repeat for other beam) # For the 300mm beams, 2 pairs of 2 will be identical, one "I" shaped, and one "C" shaped. # For the C-shaped beam, Slide two t-nuts into one rail. Attach the corner brackets at the ends, ensuring the bracket is flush with the beams end. *Always use the side of the bracket with a flat face (non-lipped) first. This ensures you can get a tool onto the 2nd bolt without being blocked. # For the I-Beams, repeat the same steps for the C-beam, but on both sides. # Repeat so you have 2 I-beams and 2-C beams. # *Optional* Add bolts to all remaining bracket holes and loosely attach t-nuts. (as seen in the right two beams in image 3)
      uts. (as seen in the right two beams in image 3))
    • Clay-pot-irrigation system (Aranya Agricultural Alternatives method)  + ([[Tree planting (Aranya Agricultural Alternatives method)]])
    • Clay-pot-irrigation system (Aranya Agricultural Alternatives method)  + ([[Tree planting (Aranya Agricultural Alternatives method)]])
    • Concrete and wood coffee table  + (Use a circular saw to cut four balusters into 12” length pieces and another four balusters into 18” length pieces.)
    • Concrete and wood coffee table  + (Use a circular saw to cut four balusters into 12” length pieces and another four balusters into 18” length pieces.)
    • SolarOSE - Guide 1: Support structure of the mirror field  + (Use the grinder to cut at the length of 2130 mm the two main squared tubes and at the length of 1430 mm the 2 square tubes for the support.)
    • SolarOSE - Guide 1: Support structure of the mirror field  + (Use the grinder to cut at the length of 2130 mm the two main squared tubes and at the length of 1430 mm the 2 square tubes for the support.)
    • Glowing LED Butterfly  + (Use TinkerCad to design the component thatUse TinkerCad to design the component that will be 3D printed. This is a great opportunity to develop your computer aided design (CAD) skills! What to think about.. - Needs to have holes for the light to go through - Needs to be big enough to hide the Arduino and PCB - Needs to be able to sit on the top of the 9V battery Pre-made butterfly design can be found through this linkrfly design can be found through this link)
    • SolarOSE - Guide 5: CPC Reflector  + (With a cutter, cut a 340x680 mm rectangle With a cutter, cut a 340x680 mm rectangle of mirror sheet. Mind to protect the reflective surface of the mirror during the operation and to work on the back side. One needs to run the cutter several times to bite the metal and to fold back and forth in order to detach it.fold back and forth in order to detach it.)
    • SolarOSE - Guide 5: CPC Reflector  + (With a cutter, cut a 340x680 mm rectangle With a cutter, cut a 340x680 mm rectangle of mirror sheet. Mind to protect the reflective surface of the mirror during the operation and to work on the back side. One needs to run the cutter several times to bite the metal and to fold back and forth in order to detach it.fold back and forth in order to detach it.)
    • VERBIS - Desktop 8x8 RGB LED Matrix Word Clock  + ('''Wooden photo frame''' You can make you'''Wooden photo frame''' You can make your own frame, there are a dozen of articles about this, even here on Instructables. But a simpler solution would be finding a framing company where you can order a personalized frame with your required dimensions and you can choose from many frame types. This is exactly what I did. I ordered my frames with a specific dimension: the framed photo, in my case object (display) is 80x80mm. I also asked for an accurate dimension, I didn't want the frame to be too big for the 3D printed plastic grid. '''Plexiglass support''' The plexiglass support can be also be made DIY but for an amateur it is not very easy to cut and blend plexiglass. So I ordered several supports from an advertising company that makes all kinds of plexiglass objects. The dimensions I used are: width - 120mm, first part length - 180mm, second part length - 50mm, 15° bending angle. '''Display plexiglass sheet''' The 3mm grey smoked plexiglass sheet can be cut from a bigger sheet, obtaining the required 80x80mm dimension. '''Plastic grid''' The STL file for 3D printing can be downloaded from [https://www.tinkercad.com/things/arRYOVE5Lbk Tinkercad] '''Display Printed Paper Sheet''' The SVG file for the Printed Paper Sheet is attached, and it can be edited with Inkscape. You can make your own display layout based on this SVG file, I used [https://www.wordsearchkit.com/ Word Search Construction Kit] software to generate a words layout for the time display. You can print the file repeatedly on the same sheet of paper to achieve a good, opaque, black background. I got very good results with a cheap inkjet printer and standard white copier paper. I cut off the layout with a pair of scissors. '''Plastic box for electronics''' The files that you can 3d print are also on [https://www.tinkercad.com/things/2vKBHQ1HEI3 Tinkercad]. I used some already purchased jewelry boxes, I only designed a new box base because the boxes were too tall. The files on Tinkercad are based on this type of boxes. '''Detailed instructions''' (follow the images above) * choose (and mark) a side of the frame to be the top of the clock, clean the smoked plexiglass sheet, put it in the frame; * place the printed paper sheet and the 3D printed grid; * drill with 2 mm diameter bit through the plastic grid to make room for the screws in the frame; * screw the plastic grid; * mark on the frame the place for holes and lock the frame to the plexiglass support; * drill the holes with a 2mm diameter bit (enlarge the holes in the support with a 3mm diameter bit, make the coining with a 10mm diameter bit) and screw it all together. The last image shows an almost finished enclosure. image shows an almost finished enclosure.)
    • VERBIS - Desktop 8x8 RGB LED Matrix Word Clock  + ('''Wooden photo frame''' You can make you'''Wooden photo frame''' You can make your own frame, there are a dozen of articles about this, even here on Instructables. But a simpler solution would be finding a framing company where you can order a personalized frame with your required dimensions and you can choose from many frame types. This is exactly what I did. I ordered my frames with a specific dimension: the framed photo, in my case object (display) is 80x80mm. I also asked for an accurate dimension, I didn't want the frame to be too big for the 3D printed plastic grid. '''Plexiglass support''' The plexiglass support can be also be made DIY but for an amateur it is not very easy to cut and blend plexiglass. So I ordered several supports from an advertising company that makes all kinds of plexiglass objects. The dimensions I used are: width - 120mm, first part length - 180mm, second part length - 50mm, 15° bending angle. '''Display plexiglass sheet''' The 3mm grey smoked plexiglass sheet can be cut from a bigger sheet, obtaining the required 80x80mm dimension. '''Plastic grid''' The STL file for 3D printing can be downloaded from [https://www.tinkercad.com/things/arRYOVE5Lbk Tinkercad] '''Display Printed Paper Sheet''' The SVG file for the Printed Paper Sheet is attached, and it can be edited with Inkscape. You can make your own display layout based on this SVG file, I used [https://www.wordsearchkit.com/ Word Search Construction Kit] software to generate a words layout for the time display. You can print the file repeatedly on the same sheet of paper to achieve a good, opaque, black background. I got very good results with a cheap inkjet printer and standard white copier paper. I cut off the layout with a pair of scissors. '''Plastic box for electronics''' The files that you can 3d print are also on [https://www.tinkercad.com/things/2vKBHQ1HEI3 Tinkercad]. I used some already purchased jewelry boxes, I only designed a new box base because the boxes were too tall. The files on Tinkercad are based on this type of boxes. '''Detailed instructions''' (follow the images above) * choose (and mark) a side of the frame to be the top of the clock, clean the smoked plexiglass sheet, put it in the frame; * place the printed paper sheet and the 3D printed grid; * drill with 2 mm diameter bit through the plastic grid to make room for the screws in the frame; * screw the plastic grid; * mark on the frame the place for holes and lock the frame to the plexiglass support; * drill the holes with a 2mm diameter bit (enlarge the holes in the support with a 3mm diameter bit, make the coining with a 10mm diameter bit) and screw it all together. The last image shows an almost finished enclosure. image shows an almost finished enclosure.)
    • Getting Started with 3.5 Inch PC State Display  + (If you are a PC enthusiast, you might wantIf you are a PC enthusiast, you might want to monitor the performance and status of your PC components, such as CPU, GPU, RAM, SSD, HDD, temperature, fan speed, etc. However, opening the task manager or third-party software every time you want to check this information can be inconvenient and distracting. Moreover, you might not be able to see this information when you are gaming or doing other full-screen activities. That’s why a 3.5-inch PC state display can be a great addition to your PC setup. A 3.5-inch PC state display is a small screen that can be mounted on your PC case and display various information about your PC state. It can show you the CPU model, usage, frequency, temperature, fan speed, GPU model, usage, frequency, temperature, fan speed, RAM usage, SSD/HDD usage, network speed, IP address, weather forecast, and custom information. You can also choose from different themes and orientations to suit your preferences. A 3.5-inch PC state display can help you monitor your PC state at a glance, without interrupting your workflow or gaming experience. It can also enhance the aesthetics and functionality of your PC case, making it more personalized and attractive. Whether you are a gamer, a streamer, a content creator, or a professional, a 3.5-inch PC state display can be a useful and fun tool for your PC. In this article, I will show you how to get started with a 3.5-inch PC state display, how to install it, how to customize it, and how to use it. Let’s begin!tomize it, and how to use it. Let’s begin!)
    • Cardboard Cable Car Model With Recycled Materials, Working Model 250rpm Electric Motor and Basic Slide Switch ON-OFF-ON (School Science Project)  + (You can check all steps on video briefly or follow below steps. • Mount plastic pulley wheel onto DC motor shaft and glue on it.)
    • SunZilla - Guide 5: Assembling solar panels frames  + (You can find the positions and diameter ofYou can find the positions and diameter of the holes in the .PDF technical drawing which you can download below. For marking those of the PV-modules use a marker pen. For drilling use a metal or wood drill. Two of the 20mm-L-profiles need to have a slot cut along one side; the position of the slots is shown in the .PDF technical drawing downloadable below. These slots will allow the angle of incidence can be adjusted. To slot the profile you should use a milling cutter.e profile you should use a milling cutter.)
    • OpenKnit: digital fabrication tool to create your own clothes  + (You'll need to thread: two 20x20x800 mm bars: 6 mm tool on both sides. two 30x30x800 mm bars: 8 mm tool on both sides. two 30x30x162 mm bars: 8 mm tool on ONE side, plus one 8 mm hole on the top (see image).)
    • Tree planting (Aranya Agricultural Alternatives method)  + ( #If you use a bottle-irrigation system: # #If you use a bottle-irrigation system: ##Loosen the cap to open the bottle-irrigation system, ##As you add water in the bottle, measure the amount of water added in the bottle-irrigation system: ###If the bottle was empty, increase the frequency of your examinations, ###If the bottle was not empty, reduce the frequency of your examinations; ##Tighten the cap to close the bottle-irrigation system; #If you use a clay-pot-irrigation system: ##Remove the clay plate from the clay pot to open the clay-pot-irrigation system, ##As you add water in the clay pot, measure the amount of water added in the clay-pot-irrigation system: ###If the clay pot was empty, increase the frequency of your examinations, ###If the clay pot was not empty, reduce the frequency of your examinations; ##Install the clay plate on the clay pot to close the clay-pot-irrigation system: #Else: ##If the moisture level is low, add water and increase the frequency of your examinations, ##If the moisture level is high, reduce the frequency of your examinations. reduce the frequency of your examinations. )
    • How to Use Tidal Sleep Timer to Have a Good Sleep  + (On your iOS mobile device, you can set a sOn your iOS mobile device, you can set a sleep timer for Tidal by simply using the '''Clock''' app. '''1#''' On your iPhone, open the '''Clock''' app and tap '''Timer''' at the bottom. '''2#''' Here you can create a sleep timer for Tidal music as you want. '''3#''' Tap '''When Timer Ends''' and scroll down to the bottom to select '''Stop Playing'''. '''4#''' Tap '''Set''' to apply and adjust the time period as preferred. '''5#''' Once done, tap the '''Start''' button to start tracking the time. It will stop the Tidal from playing music automatically when the time ends.ng music automatically when the time ends.)