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Recherche par propriété

Une liste de toutes les pages qui ont la propriété « Step Content » avec la valeur « ...and now actually attaching the strips. I "clamp" them on using some painters tape. ». Puisqu’il n’y a que quelques résultats, les valeurs proches sont également affichées.

Affichage de 84 résultats à partir du n°1.

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Liste de résultats

    • Customisation d'un stylo  + (Le waschi tape n'est pas très opaque faite plusieurs fois le tour du stylo)
    • How to make party poppers  + (Party poppers are a delightful way to add Party poppers are a delightful way to add an extra burst of fun to any occasion. Whether it's a birthday, wedding, or New Year's Eve celebration, these colorful and confetti-filled surprises can make your event even more memorable. Making your own party poppers is not only easy but also allows you to customize them to fit the theme of your celebration. In this guide, we'll walk you through the supplies needed, the step-by-step process, and some creative ideas on how to use them. == Supplies Needed for DIY Party Poppers == Before you begin crafting your party poppers, gather the following supplies: * '''1 empty paper towel tube or tissue paper roll:''' This will serve as the main body of the popper. * '''Glitter, confetti, and small party favors:''' Fill your poppers with glitter, fortunes, horoscopes, confetti, mints, funny notes, chocolate coins, or small party favors. * '''12-by-12-inch piece of wrapping or tissue paper:''' Choose a paper that matches your event's theme or color scheme. * '''Scissors:''' To cut the cardboard tube and wrapping paper. * '''Glue gun or tape:''' Secure the wrapping paper around the tubes. * '''Ribbon:''' Add a decorative touch and help secure the ends of the popper. == Step-by-Step Directions for Making Party Poppers == === 1. Prepare the Cardboard Tubes === Begin by cutting the cardboard tube in half. Next, cut one of the halves in half again, leaving you with three smaller tubes of different sizes. These will form the body of your party poppers. === 2. Fill the Tubes === Now that you have your tubes ready, it's time to fill them. Add glitter, confetti, and any small party favors you’ve selected. The contents will create the "pop" when the popper is used, so be sure to pack them well but not too tightly. === 3. Wrap the Tubes === Lay your 12-by-12-inch piece of wrapping paper face down on a flat surface. Arrange the three filled tubes in an even row at the edge of the paper, leaving about a 1/2-inch space between each tube. Carefully glue or tape the edge of the wrapping paper along the length of the tubes to secure them in place. Roll the paper over the tubes until they are fully wrapped, then trim any excess paper, including from the ends of the tubes. === 4. Add Finishing Touches === Gently twist the wrapping paper at the spaces between the tubes to create the classic party popper shape. Secure each twisted section with a piece of ribbon for a festive look. The ribbon not only adds flair but also helps hold the popper together. === 5. Display and Use Your Party Poppers === Your party poppers are now ready! You can add them to your table settings, place a bunch in a large glass bowl as a centerpiece, or hand them out to guests right before the big moment. == Tips and Variations for Creative Party Poppers == * '''Easy Breakage:''' Before giving the poppers to your guests, use a pin to poke holes around the edges of the tube. This will make it easier for the popper to break open when pulled. * '''Size Variations:''' For smaller poppers, use cardboard tubes from wrapping paper rolls instead of paper towel tubes. * '''Personalization:''' Create a personalized look by wrapping the tubes with color copies of family photos or images that match the theme of your event. == Where and How to Use Party Poppers == Party poppers are versatile and can be used in various types of celebrations. Here are some ideas for where and how to use them: === 1. '''Birthday Parties''' === Party poppers can be used when the birthday person makes a wish and blows out the candles. Alternatively, they can be given out as party favors to guests as a fun takeaway. === 2. '''Weddings''' === Instead of the traditional rice or confetti, guests can pop party poppers during the newlyweds’ send-off, creating a spectacular photo opportunity. === 3. '''New Year's Eve''' === Distribute party poppers to guests before midnight. When the clock strikes twelve, everyone can pop them to celebrate the arrival of the new year. === 4. '''Gender Reveal Parties''' === Fill the poppers with pink or blue confetti for a fun and interactive way to reveal the baby's gender to family and friends. === 5. '''Graduation Parties''' === Celebrate the graduate's achievement by popping the poppers during the ceremony or at the party. It’s a great way to mark the big moment with a burst of excitement. === 6. '''Holiday Gatherings''' === Whether it’s Christmas, Halloween, or the Fourth of July, you can customize the poppers with thematic colors and confetti to add a festive touch to your holiday celebrations. === 7. '''Engagement Parties or Proposals''' === Celebrate love with a unique twist by filling the poppers with rose petals or themed confetti. It’s a memorable way to enhance the moment. === 8. '''Retirement Celebrations''' === Mark the transition from work to retirement with the joyous noise and visual delight of party poppers. === 9. '''Anniversary Parties''' === Party poppers are perfect for any anniversary celebration, adding a joyful burst of color and fun to the occasion. === 10. '''Welcome Home Parties''' === Celebrate a loved one’s return with the cheerful explosion of party poppers, making their homecoming even more special. == Conclusion == Making your own party poppers is a fun, easy, and creative way to add an extra layer of excitement to any event. Whether you’re celebrating a birthday, wedding, or holiday, these DIY poppers can be customized to fit any theme and are sure to be a hit with your guests. So gather your supplies, follow the steps, and get ready to pop your way to a fantastic celebration! [https://www.designsforcricut.com/product/Elegant-Cricut-Catio-Designs-Custom-Monogram-for-Cat-Lovers Cricut catio designs] , [https://www.designsforcricut.com/category/monograms/3dfont Cricut 3d fonts for logos]onograms/3dfont Cricut 3d fonts for logos])
    • Road Tubeless Tape Installation  + (Remove any existing rim strip or rim tape from the rim. Remove the valve stem, nut, and o-ring from the rim.)
    • Fusée à eau simple et rapide  + (On s'assure que le bouchon est bien adaptéOn s'assure que le bouchon est bien adapté au goulot de la bouteille. ceux des bouteilles de bière s'adaptent très bien et ne sont pas abimés par un tire-bouchon. On coupe la partie large du bouchon, puis on perce avec une aiguille de gonflage le bouchon qui rentrera dans le goulot. Le même bouchon peut être utilisé pour de nombreux tirs. Mais il est toujours possible de le perdre au moment du lancement, ayez un bouchon de remplacement au cas où.ayez un bouchon de remplacement au cas où.)
    • Showerloop - Guide 3: Connecting the pipes  + (Basics - heat up your copper pipe with a bBasics - heat up your copper pipe with a blowtorch. Focus the flame on the areas above and below where you will do the bending so that part doesn’t get hotter and thus weaker than the rest of the steel. Once the copper turns blackish and starts making a cool psychedelic rainbow effect you know the copper is warm enough to begin bending. Turn off the flame and wait a moment. Once the pipe has cooled a little use the pipe bending tool so make an appropriate bend. This is more craft than technical skill and you just have to observe and see how the metal flexes.
      Don’t put too much pressure on one spot, this may result in a distorted pipe. You want to keep the diameter of the inner pipe as even as possible. Use a pipe bending tool.
      r of the inner pipe as even as possible. Use a pipe bending tool.</div> </div>)
    • Build a Longboard from Scratch in Your Own Home  + (Before you start putting together your lonBefore you start putting together your longboard, you'll need to do some cutting and drilling. Begin by cutting your threaded rods into two pieces, each 8 inches long. Use a fret file to smooth out the rods, which are 5/16" x 12" inches in size. Next, apply grip tape to the board. Cut the grip tape to be about one centimeter wider than the board, then press it onto the board and trim off any excess. With your 6º wedge riser, mark where you'll drill to attach the INOX Allen bolts, which are 1/4" x 1.5" in size. Ensure the marks are centered on the ends of your board. Safety is crucial, so wear gloves and safety glasses during this process. Carefully drill four holes, making sure they are clean and precise. We used a 3D-printed part to help us drill the holes in the cap perfectly centered. If you'd like access to the design for this part, please let us know, and we'll share it with you. Finally, position the drill in the middle of your 1" cap and drill each hole carefully. The 1" cap should have a similar appearance to the one shown in the image. appearance to the one shown in the image.)
    • Replace brake handle Xiaomi Mi elesctric scooter  + (Begin by releasing the brake cable from thBegin by releasing the brake cable from the lever. Pull the red brake outer tube away from the lever to reveal the metal ferrule, then pull the cable away from the front of the scooter allowing it to pass through the channel in the front of the lever. Once free you can depress the lever to reveal the round metal head of the cable, lift it up to release it from the handle. lift it up to release it from the handle.)
    • Bucket stool made of wood and concrete  + (Bend the sides of the bucket outwards a few times in each direction to loosen the concrete; then pull the stool out by the legs.)
    • Bucket stool made of wood and concrete  + (Bend the sides of the bucket outwards a few times in each direction to loosen the concrete; then pull the stool out by the legs.)
    • Flocage t-shirt  + (J'ai choisit un t-shirt que je voulais. J'ai pris celui qui me plaisait le plus. <br/>)
    • Build an Easy ISS Notifier  + (Create a cloud account at io.adafruit.com.Create a cloud account at io.adafruit.com. Then click on Feeds→Actions→Create a New Feed. Name it “ISS.” Click the View AIO Key button, then copy your unique '''''key''''' somewhere safe — you’ll need it later to link your Tokymaker to your Adafruit IO feed.k your Tokymaker to your Adafruit IO feed.)
    • Build an Easy ISS Notifier  + (Create a cloud account at io.adafruit.com.Create a cloud account at io.adafruit.com. Then click on Feeds→Actions→Create a New Feed. Name it “ISS.” Click the View AIO Key button, then copy your unique '''''key''''' somewhere safe — you’ll need it later to link your Tokymaker to your Adafruit IO feed.k your Tokymaker to your Adafruit IO feed.)
    • Wooden pet connects to Facebook  + (Create a new feed by reaching https://io.adafruit.com/ > Feeds > Actions and then name it, for example “touchsensor”)
    • Wooden pet connects to Facebook  + (Create a new feed by reaching https://io.adafruit.com/ > Feeds > Actions and then name it, for example “touchsensor”)
    • SolarOSE - Guide 2: Mirror facets  + (Cut to a length of 2000 mm the aluminum tubes of 40x20 mm (or buy them with these dimensions). Drill a hole of 5 mm centered on the width, at 100 mm from each extremity. Tap (thread) this hole, made for a screw with a diameter of 6 mm (M6).)
    • SolarOSE - Guide 2: Mirror facets  + (Cut to a length of 2000 mm the aluminum tubes of 40x20 mm (or buy them with these dimensions). Drill a hole of 5 mm centered on the width, at 100 mm from each extremity. Tap (thread) this hole, made for a screw with a diameter of 6 mm (M6).)
    • Fibonacci Clock  + (Cut 4 plywood board for outside walls, 2 oCut 4 plywood board for outside walls, 2 others for bottom and double-bottom, and 4 littles more for inside walls to split squares. Dimensions are the following : For outside walls : * 2 boards 85mm * 221mm * 2 boards 85mm * 138mm for bottom and double-bottom : * 2 boards 128mm * 211mm for inside walls: * 1 board 50mm * 128mm * 1 board 50mm * 78mm * 1 board 50mm * 50mm * 1 board 50mm * 26mm 1 board 50mm * 50mm * 1 board 50mm * 26mm)
    • Solar coffee roaster (using a Scheffler concentrator)  + (Cut the bars, the flats and the L profile angle at the lenghts marked in the following table (see image of table).)
    • Solar coffee roaster (using a Scheffler concentrator)  + (Cut the bars, the flats and the L profile angle at the lenghts marked in the following table (see image of table).)
    • Collar with a small copper tube  + (Cut the copper tube 3 cm in length with a pipe cutter pliers)
    • Collar with a small copper tube  + (Cut the copper tube 3 cm in length with a pipe cutter pliers)
    • Spinning Kinetic Sculpture RGB  + (Cut the first svg file on 2 sheets of 300cCut the first svg file on 2 sheets of 300cmx300xm [[:Fichier:DecoupePart1.svg|DecoupePart1.svg]]. Do the same for the second file [[:Fichier:DecoupePart2.svg|DecoupePart2.svg]]. The cutting file is about 300cm by 300cm so if you have a 600x300 you can cut them two by two by merging the files. Bring together similar pieces so it's easier to work.her similar pieces so it's easier to work.)
    • MicroHouse  + (Download on our [https://github.com/wikihoDownload on our [https://github.com/wikihouseproject/Microhouse/ Github repo] the set of milling drawings which can be used by CNC cutter to fabricate the house parts. Cut the part by a CNC mill using locally bought material. This is 18mm plywood, in the standard sheet size of 2440mm x 1220mm (8' x 4') Each component can be combined or adapted to form a structure which responds to an individual site or set of needs.nds to an individual site or set of needs.)
    • Sérigraphie par émulsion photographique  + ('''Un écran de sérigraphie''' L'écran est'''Un écran de sérigraphie''' L'écran est composé d'un tissu tendu sur un cadre de bois ou d'aluminium. J'utiliserai ici un tissu avec du 110 mailles (fil par pouces). Les tissus à mailles élevés (200 - 300) impriment avec plus de précision, mais laissent passer moins d'encre. Les tissus aux mailles de 85 à 150 impriment moins de détails, mais laissent une couche raisonnable d'encre, utile pour créer une impression opaque. '''Une source de lumière (ampoule survoltée ou source de soleil direct)''' '''Une raclette''' '''Du ruban gommé''' '''Une feuille d'acétate transparente''' '''De l'encre de sérigraphie''' Attention a choisir l'encre idéale pour votre projet (Si vous imprimez sur tissu, choisissez une encre pour tissu). '''Un kit d'émulsion photographique''' Ce kit comporte 3 bouteilles (dans l'image je n'ai que les deux bouteilles blanches). Le produit ne dure que 4 mois avant de devoir être jeté, et devra être conservé au réfrigérateur. (voir étape 4: préparer un kit d'émulsion photographique) '''Un accès à un lavabo''' ...Et tout ce qu'il faut pour nettoyer: savon, linge à vaisselle, éponge. '''Une chambre noire''' Une pièce sans fenêtre bien ventilée.'' Une pièce sans fenêtre bien ventilée.)
    • ZAC+ Kathodentester-Zelle  + (Fertige alle Kammerteile selbst mit einem Fertige alle Kammerteile selbst mit einem Lasercutter oder beim [https://hobbyhimmel.de/ Hobbyhimmel].
      Schönheitsfehler: Erstellt man die Verklebungen, entstehen beim Trocknen und zusammenpressen mittels Schrauben u. Muttern leichte Haarrisse, die jedoch keine weiteren Probleme verursachen. Man kann das vermeiden oder minimieren, indem man die Platten mit vier kleinen Bolzen zur Deckung bringt und dann mittels Zulagen und Zwingen den Anpressdruck erzeugt.
      gt und dann mittels Zulagen und Zwingen den Anpressdruck erzeugt.</div> </div>)
    • ZAC+ Kathodentester-Zelle  + (Fertige alle Kammerteile selbst mit einem Fertige alle Kammerteile selbst mit einem Lasercutter oder beim [https://hobbyhimmel.de/ Hobbyhimmel].
      Schönheitsfehler: Erstellt man die Verklebungen, entstehen beim Trocknen und zusammenpressen mittels Schrauben u. Muttern leichte Haarrisse, die jedoch keine weiteren Probleme verursachen. Man kann das vermeiden oder minimieren, indem man die Platten mit vier kleinen Bolzen zur Deckung bringt und dann mittels Zulagen und Zwingen den Anpressdruck erzeugt.
      gt und dann mittels Zulagen und Zwingen den Anpressdruck erzeugt.</div> </div>)
    • ZAC+ Kathodentester-Zelle  + (Fertige alle Kammerteile selbst mit einem Fertige alle Kammerteile selbst mit einem Lasercutter oder beim [https://hobbyhimmel.de/ Hobbyhimmel].
      Schönheitsfehler: Erstellt man die Verklebungen, entstehen beim Trocknen und zusammenpressen mittels Schrauben u. Muttern leichte Haarrisse, die jedoch keine weiteren Probleme verursachen. Man kann das vermeiden oder minimieren, indem man die Platten mit vier kleinen Bolzen zur Deckung bringt und dann mittels Zulagen und Zwingen den Anpressdruck erzeugt.
      gt und dann mittels Zulagen und Zwingen den Anpressdruck erzeugt.</div> </div>)
    • Showerloop - Guide 4: Make the backplate  + (To fit inside the existing frame I had to bevel my 20mm plywood to half way. By clamping a straight piece of material onto the edge I could simply push against it with the router while moving laterally to get a clean and straight cut.)
    • Showerloop - Guide 4: Make the backplate  + (To fit inside the existing frame I had to bevel my 20mm plywood to half way. By clamping a straight piece of material onto the edge I could simply push against it with the router while moving laterally to get a clean and straight cut.)
    • Creating a trash ball  + ( * gather trash around remains of training soft materials )
    • Creating a trash ball  + ( * gather trash around remains of training soft materials )
    • Sérigraphie avec un pochoir de vinyle  + (L'image que vous choisirez sera en lien diL'image que vous choisirez sera en lien direct avec la difficulté du projet. Voici quelques facteurs à prendre en considération lorsque vous choisirez l'image à imprimer. Lors de la création de votre image, gardez en tête que nous créons un pochoir: il faudra que l'extérieur soit d'une seule pièce. '''Il est impossible d'avoir une forme dans une autre, car le centre sera perdu.''' Pour écrire cherchez une typographie pour pochoir (Stencil typo). De nombreuses œuvres sont créés pour des pochoirs, n'hésitez pas à vous en inspirer! Assurez-vous de sélectionner une image d'une seule couleur qui pourra être vectorisé à l'étape suivante. pourra être vectorisé à l'étape suivante.)
    • Showerloop - Guide 2: Filters  + (Laser cut or CNC the files in [http://googLaser cut or CNC the files in [http://google.com this pdf]. Since laser cutters handle cutting a bit differently there may be come problems with the file. Generally red / hairlines (0.001mm) is for cutting and black is for engraving.
      If you don’t have access to a laser cutter or CNC machine, a manual router can be used to cut out the groove in the filter and the whole shape if need be. To cut a perfect circle with a router a special tool may need to be made (look for circle jig on youtube).
      The lids and mounting plates can also be a single piece if you are using thick material. Four 10cm diameter x 50cm filters are required to have an appropriate flow rate of 10l/min. With 6.6l/min two filters are sufficient and 1 filter for 3.3l/min. The surface area is more important than the length of the filter because that determines the flow rate through the filter and thus reaction times. I use 10mm thick acrylic sheets for the lid and compression disks but I have used 4-5mm acrylic sheets in previous prototypes and glued them together with decent results.
      d 4-5mm acrylic sheets in previous prototypes and glued them together with decent results.)
    • Showerloop - Guide 3: Connecting the pipes  + (Lay out all the filter components onto a surface. Using common sense and a ruler you can centre everything perfectly.)
    • Word Clock  + (Lay the acrylic backing on top of the stenLay the acrylic backing on top of the stencil, and mark out a cut line, then using a straight edge and a sharp hobby knife (or scalpel), cut the sheet to size. Next, ensure that your working environment is clean – vacuum your table if necessary – or work inside the house, instead of the garage. Lock up your Golden Retriever dog and your cats. If you get small particles between the vinyl and the Perspex, you will have enormous trouble making the surface look flat. Spend some time 'weeding' the stencil, by removing the letters that you don't want there on the final stencil. The removed letters will provide space for the light to shine through. Once you have removed all of the letters (being careful to leave the centres of letters such as 'A' and 'P' behind), apply some masking tape along each row so that when we remove the backing sheet, the centres of the letters stay in the correct spot on the stencil.s stay in the correct spot on the stencil.)
    • How to Make Beautiful but Easy Handmade Valentine's Day Card  + (To make this beautiful card I used half-inTo make this beautiful card I used half-inch ribbon to make roses. I fold it like a triangle shape then twist it two or three times to make the center. Then our next step is to start twisting but you still have to roll the ribbon, then you have to do it every so often when you're going to twist the ribbon.ten when you're going to twist the ribbon.)
    • ZipStich Chair with plywood pieces and zip ties  + (Measure and mark the plywood with a pencil.)
    • ZipStich Chair with plywood pieces and zip ties  + (Measure and mark the plywood with a pencil.)
    • PP Shredder Pro  + (<nowiki>====Tools====<br />non====Tools====
      none
      ====Parts====
      1110.08 - Bearing Side Plate 4

      1110.09 - Bearing Side Plate 5

      1110.10 - Bearing Side Plate 6

      1110.11 - Gear Plate

      1110.01 - Top Plate

      ====Steps====

      #Layout the remaining pies as seen in image 1.
      #Slide plate 1110.08 directly on top of piece 1110.07
      #Drop in plate 1110.09 directly next to 1110.07/.08 in the open tabs.
      #Place the bottom tabs of plate 1110.10 into the bottom plate, and then fold the plate upwards into place.
      #Place plate 1110.11 on top as seen in image 5.
      #Place plate 1110.01 on top, securing the entire box in place.

      *Note - in the next steps, you will dismantle these last few steps, but it is important to understand how the box comes together.


      t;br /><br/></nowiki>)
    • Create a wooden pet that connects with Facebook  + (Once you ve set up an account on adafruit.io, go on creating a new Feed. Create a new feed and name it, for example, “touchsensor”.)
    • Create a wooden pet that connects with Facebook  + (Once you ve set up an account on adafruit.io, go on creating a new Feed. Create a new feed and name it, for example, “touchsensor”.)
    • FoldaRap 2.5 : imprimante 3D facilement transportable  + ( * pied-avant-gauche: http://reprap.org/wi * pied-avant-gauche: http://reprap.org/wiki/File:Foot-front-left.png * pied-avant-droite: http://reprap.org/wiki/File:Foot-front-rightt.png * pied-arrière-droite: http://reprap.org/wiki/File:Foot-front-left.png * pied-arrière-gauche: http://reprap.org/wiki/File:Foot-front-rightt.png * charnière-intérieur-gauche: http://reprap.org/wiki/File:FR2-5-hinge-inner-left.png * charnière-intérieur-droite: http://reprap.org/wiki/File:FR2-5-hinge-inner-right.png p.org/wiki/File:FR2-5-hinge-inner-right.png )
    • FoldaRap 2.5 : imprimante 3D facilement transportable  + ( * pied-avant-gauche: http://reprap.org/wi * pied-avant-gauche: http://reprap.org/wiki/File:Foot-front-left.png * pied-avant-droite: http://reprap.org/wiki/File:Foot-front-rightt.png * pied-arrière-droite: http://reprap.org/wiki/File:Foot-front-left.png * pied-arrière-gauche: http://reprap.org/wiki/File:Foot-front-rightt.png * charnière-intérieur-gauche: http://reprap.org/wiki/File:FR2-5-hinge-inner-left.png * charnière-intérieur-droite: http://reprap.org/wiki/File:FR2-5-hinge-inner-right.png p.org/wiki/File:FR2-5-hinge-inner-right.png )
    • Showerloop - Guide 5: UV Assembly  + (Place the lock nut inside the UV cap. Use teflon tape or hemp fibre with some mineral oil and place it inside the UV cap.)
    • Showerloop - Guide 5: UV Assembly  + (Place the lock nut inside the UV cap. Use teflon tape or hemp fibre with some mineral oil and place it inside the UV cap.)
    • Turn signal biking jacket  + ('''Plan the aesthetic and electrical layou'''Plan the aesthetic and electrical layout of your piece''' Decide where each component is going to go and figure out how you will sew them together with as few thread crossings as possible. Make a sketch of your design that you can refer to as you work. The photos below show the sketches for my jacket. Stitching for power (+) is shown in red, ground (-) in black, LEDs in green, and switch inputs in purple.EDs in green, and switch inputs in purple.)
    • Turn signal biking jacket  + ('''Plan the aesthetic and electrical layou'''Plan the aesthetic and electrical layout of your piece''' Decide where each component is going to go and figure out how you will sew them together with as few thread crossings as possible. Make a sketch of your design that you can refer to as you work. The photos below show the sketches for my jacket. Stitching for power (+) is shown in red, ground (-) in black, LEDs in green, and switch inputs in purple.EDs in green, and switch inputs in purple.)
    • Fusée à soufflet  + (Pour constituer le kit, il faut couper le Pour constituer le kit, il faut couper le tube PVC en morceaux de différentes longueurs. *Un morceau de 80 cm, qui sera relié à la bouteille. *2 morceaux de 30 cm, l'un pour guider la fusée, l'autre pour les confectionner. *Le dernier morceau, la chute, qui servira de support à l'ensemble (une fois la collerette coupée)l'ensemble (une fois la collerette coupée))
    • Fusée à soufflet  + (Pour constituer le kit, il faut couper le Pour constituer le kit, il faut couper le tube PVC en morceaux de différentes longueurs. *Un morceau de 80 cm, qui sera relié à la bouteille. *2 morceaux de 30 cm, l'un pour guider la fusée, l'autre pour les confectionner. *Le dernier morceau, la chute, qui servira de support à l'ensemble (une fois la collerette coupée)l'ensemble (une fois la collerette coupée))
    • Création de lampe au laser avec panneaux modulaires (concours trotec)  + (Pour les finitions, commencez par poncer lPour les finitions, commencez par poncer l'ensemble de la lampe (structure et panneaux) Ensuite, vous pouvez teinter le chêne avec de la paille de fer macérée dans du vinaigre blanc (le tanin du chêne réagit avec l'acide et l'oxyde de fer le rend noir). Pour les autres bois et le MDF, vous pouvez utiliser des teintes chimiques. ex : http://freresnordin.fr/teinte-a-bois-noir-chimique-676.html Poncez un peu la teinte sur l'emplacement du bouton, afin que l'on puisse le repérer sans peine. Cela permettra de rendre la spirale découpée au laser plus visible. Après avoir laissé sécher la teinte, passez une ou deux couches de vernis en bombe sur toutes les pièces pour un rendu brillant et faites ressortir la veine du bois (la finition peut aussi être mate si vous prenez un autre type de vernis). https://www.urban-painters.com/vernis-bombe-aerosol-molotow-premium.html)vernis-bombe-aerosol-molotow-premium.html))
    • Création de lampe au laser avec panneaux modulaires (concours trotec)  + (Pour les finitions, commencez par poncer lPour les finitions, commencez par poncer l'ensemble de la lampe (structure et panneaux) Ensuite, vous pouvez teinter le chêne avec de la paille de fer macérée dans du vinaigre blanc (le tanin du chêne réagit avec l'acide et l'oxyde de fer le rend noir). Pour les autres bois et le MDF, vous pouvez utiliser des teintes chimiques. ex : http://freresnordin.fr/teinte-a-bois-noir-chimique-676.html Poncez un peu la teinte sur l'emplacement du bouton, afin que l'on puisse le repérer sans peine. Cela permettra de rendre la spirale découpée au laser plus visible. Après avoir laissé sécher la teinte, passez une ou deux couches de vernis en bombe sur toutes les pièces pour un rendu brillant et faites ressortir la veine du bois (la finition peut aussi être mate si vous prenez un autre type de vernis). https://www.urban-painters.com/vernis-bombe-aerosol-molotow-premium.html)vernis-bombe-aerosol-molotow-premium.html))
    • Jeu de dames et d'échecs  + ('''Pourquoi donc ?''' Katia voulait se la'''Pourquoi donc ?''' Katia voulait se lancer directement dans la découpe, moi je voulais tester nos choix et paramètres... finalement j'ai obtenu gain de cause ''(pour une fois).'' On a dupliqué notre damier pour créer un mini damier de 4 par 4 et tester nos paramètres de découpe et de gravure... '''Résultat ?''' Pas de photos :( ''(j'ai commencé le tuto trop tard, on pété le mini-damier pour vérifier notre découpe à mi-bois, puis c'est parti à la poubelle)'' Et là on s'est aperçu que les cases blanches du bord n'avaient pas de bordure (pas de soucis par contre pour celles du centre qui sont bordées par des cases noires) Avec Katia on décide de ne pas graver les bords, mais de faire une découpe à mi-bois ''(l'objectif étant aussi d'essayer des trucs !!!)'' : carré de 300mm par 300mm positionné en X=0/Y=0 Retour sous Inkscape et on en profite pour coloriser les traits de découpe pour ne pas y revenir plus tard (rouge pour la découpe à mi-bois et vert pour la découpe du plateau)
      Dans l'ordre découpe intérieure puis extérieure = RVB (Oui on avait fait l'inverse avant de se poser les bonnes questions et de changer...)
      '''Conclusion de la 3ème étape''' Temps de travail : une bonne heure a priori ''KiKaFaitKoi : moi pour la volonté, cogitation conjointe, ajustement de modélisation par Katia'' '''Prototyper c'est bien... ''surtout quand on débute :)'''''
      Plutôt que de cramer une demi-planche n'importe comment, faire un petit test évite les déconvenues et fait gagner du temps !
      ons-text">Plutôt que de cramer une demi-planche n'importe comment, faire un petit test évite les déconvenues et fait gagner du temps !</div> </div>)
    • Jeu de dames et d'échecs  + ('''Pourquoi donc ?''' Katia voulait se la'''Pourquoi donc ?''' Katia voulait se lancer directement dans la découpe, moi je voulais tester nos choix et paramètres... finalement j'ai obtenu gain de cause ''(pour une fois).'' On a dupliqué notre damier pour créer un mini damier de 4 par 4 et tester nos paramètres de découpe et de gravure... '''Résultat ?''' Pas de photos :( ''(j'ai commencé le tuto trop tard, on pété le mini-damier pour vérifier notre découpe à mi-bois, puis c'est parti à la poubelle)'' Et là on s'est aperçu que les cases blanches du bord n'avaient pas de bordure (pas de soucis par contre pour celles du centre qui sont bordées par des cases noires) Avec Katia on décide de ne pas graver les bords, mais de faire une découpe à mi-bois ''(l'objectif étant aussi d'essayer des trucs !!!)'' : carré de 300mm par 300mm positionné en X=0/Y=0 Retour sous Inkscape et on en profite pour coloriser les traits de découpe pour ne pas y revenir plus tard (rouge pour la découpe à mi-bois et vert pour la découpe du plateau)
      Dans l'ordre découpe intérieure puis extérieure = RVB (Oui on avait fait l'inverse avant de se poser les bonnes questions et de changer...)
      '''Conclusion de la 3ème étape''' Temps de travail : une bonne heure a priori ''KiKaFaitKoi : moi pour la volonté, cogitation conjointe, ajustement de modélisation par Katia'' '''Prototyper c'est bien... ''surtout quand on débute :)'''''
      Plutôt que de cramer une demi-planche n'importe comment, faire un petit test évite les déconvenues et fait gagner du temps !
      ons-text">Plutôt que de cramer une demi-planche n'importe comment, faire un petit test évite les déconvenues et fait gagner du temps !</div> </div>)
    • IKEA hack: TARVA Chest of 3 drawers in pine  + (Remove the drawer handles with your screwdriver.)
    • IKEA hack: TARVA Chest of 3 drawers in pine  + (Remove the drawer handles with your screwdriver.)
    • 3D CNC milling avec CAM Fusion 360  + (<section class="step"><br />Be

      Before beginning CAM programming, you need to consider the part and the best approach to machining. These decisions depend on the shape of the model, the material, and the constraints of the CNC machine you are using. In this lesson, you will learn how these factors impact your machining strategy with respect to workholding, registration (making sure the CNC knows where the part is), and CAM settings.

      3D Toolpathing

      If you completed the CAD and CAM Class, you worked with 2D toolpaths, in which the end mill stays at a fixed depth (Z-level) throughout a machining pass, moving only in X and Y while cutting. This type of machining is ideal for prismatic parts - parts in which all machined faces lie normal to the machine tool spindle.

      When programming non-prismatic parts, such as molds or organic shapes like the the parts below, 2D operations are insufficient. You need to use 3D CAM operations, in which the end mill moves dynamically in X, Y, and Z.

      Workholding

      Workholding is the strategy for holding your part rigidly during the machining process. When programming with 3D toolpaths, workholding is an important initial consideration. This is especially true of parts that require machining on both sides, when the part will be flipped between setups.

      When programming for prismatic parts, you may have noticed that 2D and 2.5D CAM only requires a CAD model of the part that you want to machine, without any extra features for workholding attachment or registration. This is because the part takes the shape of a rectangular prism, which can be held easily inside a vise or fixed to a spoiler board.

      But what do you do when your shape is more organic or irregular, and also must be flipped to machine on both sides? In this case, you need to model additional material that will hold your part inside a vise, against a spoiler board, or flat against the bottom of the machine. It's very hard to program the CAM without having these features incorporated into your model.

      In other words, 3D flip machining requires that you model the stock you want left behind, as well as tabs to prevent your part from coming loose inside the machine. These tabs will be cut off and sanded down after machining, usually with a bandsaw and disk sander.

      Note: Another, more advanced, technique for workholding for irregular shapes in metal is a soft jaw system. You would machine your own custom aluminum jaws to use with a Lang or Kurt vise, and these custom jaws would hold your part after the flip. No tabs needed.

      For your serving spoon, you will have two tabs--one on each end--and a rectangular prism of stock that will hold the spoon flat after the flip. When modeling, it's a good idea to make your stock and tabs another body, separate from your part.

      Registration

      Because the spoon will be machined from both sides (flip machining), you need a way to ensure that the CNC machine can locate the part accurately after it has been moved. This is called registration.

      If you have used the Haas before, you're familiar with using a probe to locate your part . The DMS, however, like many table routers, does not have a probe. When using the DMS to locate the origin of your Work Coordinate System (Work Home), you will insert a tool into the spindle and jog it to the correct location. It's common to trap a piece of paper between the stock and the tool to ensure that Z is correct. In the DMS machine class you will learn how to enter the codes to set your WCS in this way. As you might imagine, this system is not accurate, because you're just "eyeballing" this location.

      This means that if you have a part that requires flip machining, you need to consider how to get the two sides to line up properly with one another. There are lots of options, and they all have advantages and disadvantages based on the specifics of your part. Some common methods include:

      --Attaching stops to your spoiler board (waste board under your part that can be machined) or machine bed

      --Machining a contour into your spoiler board, then placing your stock exactly inside that contour

      --Drilling holes for dowels that go into the spoiler board beneath your part (most accurate)

      This final technique is the the method you will use for the spoon. While machining the front side of the spoon, you will also drill three holes through the stock and partially into the spoiler board. After you flip your part, you will insert dowels through the holes and into the spoiler board that will align your part perfectly with your first side.

      CAM Settings

      The specifics of the project - machining wood on the DMS router - will also determine some of the choices you make when programming toolpaths.


      
-Tool numbering

      If you are a Pier 9 shop user, you will be using the DMS tool library. When you have simulated and finalized your CAM program, make sure that your tools are labeled in the chronological order that they are used. You will learn later in this class how to edit tool numbers.

      Remember that the chronological tool numbers in your program do not correspond to the numbers in the DMS tool library drawer. For instance, the fifth tool you use in your program might be the 1" Rough Short End Mill, which is labeled #34 in the DMS library. You will see the DMS library number in the comment for each tool, which will appear in your setup sheet (machining plan). You will learn later how to generate setup sheets.

      If you are not using Pier 9's DMS, you'll either be using custom tools, or tools from your own tool library. If using your own library, be sure to label your tools in the chronological order they will be used.

      -Rules for roughing

      Machining in wood or plastic on the DMS is not high speed machining (HSM). This means that you may use Adaptive toolpaths for roughing, but you cannot use the whole length of the cutter.

      When machining wood or plastic, follow the Stepover and Stepdown Rule: The stepover and stepdown should never exceed 50% of the tool diameter.
      lt;br />Machining in wood or plastic on the DMS is not high speed machining (HSM). This means that you may use Adaptive toolpaths for roughing, but you cannot use the whole length of the cutter.<br /><br />When machining wood or plastic, follow the Stepover and Stepdown Rule: The stepover and stepdown should never exceed 50% of the tool diameter.<br /></section>)
    • Mighty maker level belt  + (Set up a temporary circuit using a bread bSet up a temporary circuit using a bread board and solderless jumper cables. Set up your circuit as shown in the diagram Things to note: - There is a transistor for each of the Red, Blue and Green inputs of the RGB strip - Each transistor has 3 pins, one for GROUND, one for SIGNAL INPUT and one for SIGNAL OUTPUT - The signal input pin of each transistor is connected to a pin on the Arduino which will be controlled by the Arduino code - this will tell it whether this colour should illuminate or not. - The signal output pin of each transistor is connected to the corresponding connection on the RGB strip. - The Vin pin from the Arduino is connected to the 12V+ connection point on the RGB strip. This means that the power source is coming the computer when it is connected rather than a battery.hen it is connected rather than a battery.)
    • Word Clock  + (Start assembly by making the stencil. You Start assembly by making the stencil. You can either get a stencil cut by a local sign writer to your own design, or use a pre-cut vinyl stencil from my web site. I have always felt that the clock looks more majestic if there is a border around the letters (I normally use about a 30mm border), but you can use whatever size you would like. Vinyl by itself is floppy, so it needs to be attached to a clear acrylic (Perspex) backing sheet to provide rigidity. Make sure that the acrylic sheet is the size you want the final clock to be.
      Before you start, mix up a couple of drops of dish washing liquid with a cup of water, and load that into a spray bottle. We will use this to make applying the vinyl lots easier.
      The vinyl stencil as supplied will typically be larger than required. This is so as to provide extra material for variations in face sizes. We need to cut the vinyl stencil to the final size of your acrylic sheet, allowing an extra 10mm allowance around the edges.
      o the final size of your acrylic sheet, allowing an extra 10mm allowance around the edges.)
    • Entryway catch-all table  + (I started with a full sheet of Maple plywood. I broke it down into manageable chunks using my track saw.)
    • Fusée à eau simple et rapide  + (Il suffit ensuite de placer la bouteille sIl suffit ensuite de placer la bouteille sur le tuteur (le trou du bouchon ne laisse passer qu'un goutte à goutte) pour ne plus qu'à avoir à passer l'aiguille de gonflage à travers le bouchon, puis donner quelques coups de pompes pour profiter du décollage. La pression fait sauter le bouchon et la fusée décolle (attention aux éclaboussure et à ne pas être sur la trajectoire). Le bouchon reste normalement sur l'aiguille, ou au sol. Il suffit de récupérer la fusée et le bouchon pour refaire un lancement.e et le bouchon pour refaire un lancement.)
    • ASKotec Tutorials - DIY Simple analog synth  + ( # Take your time and look at the schematic. Start with + and run through the different ways till you end back to - pole # The second image shows you the pins you are going to use # Go and mark all pins on your board )
    • ASKotec Tutorials - DIY Simple analog synth  + ( # Take your time and look at the schematic. Start with + and run through the different ways till you end back to - pole # The second image shows you the pins you are going to use # Go and mark all pins on your board )
    • Buzzing Bee Circuit  + (The battery holder can be found on TinkerCThe battery holder can be found on TinkerCAD as 'Battery Holder - Buzzing Bee' at the link This CAD will need to be saved as a .stl file Open the .stl file in the printer software for your printer After centring and adjusting the settings as needed, slice the print and transfer the new created file to the printer. PRINT!
      created file to the printer. PRINT! <br/>)
    • EMI probe 12+ activities  + (The EMI detector comes in two forms: the gThe EMI detector comes in two forms: the gadget is mounted on a shield suitable for an arduino uno board, or the detector is embedded on a shield on which an arduino nano is mounted. We will start by building the shield for arduino uno here s the wiring diagram for the EMI detector == Step by step instructions for the Arduino Uno shield == First, solder at least a couple of pins to the PCB. These will go into GND and Analog 5 in th arduino uno board. Next, solder an extra pin on the opposite side of the PCB. This will connect to Digital 9 on the arduino board. The speaker will also be soldered onto the PCB. Solder the positive end of the speaker to the pin which goes into analog 9 on the arduino. Solder the negative end of the speaker into the PCB. Then connect a short (5 cm max) piece of electric wire to the negative end of the speaker. The other end of the cable is soldered on the pin which goes into GND. Use a 1Mohm resistor to connect the pin which goes into GND and the one that goes into Analog 5 on the PCB (see photo above). It’s now time to add the antenna of your EMI detector. Take about 20 cm of solid core wire, and solder one end of it on to the PCB, precisely to the pin that goes into Analog 5 on the board. = Step by step instructions for the Arduino Nano shield = An timelapse is available here Solder two strips of female headers onto a PCB (3cm x 7cm) You will need to be able to arrange the arduino nano onto these strips of female headers. Solder the positive side of the speaker to the PCB, in correspondence with the D3 pin. Solder the other end of the speaker onto the PCB, in correspondence with GND pin of the arduino nano. Next, grab the 1Mohm resistor, and solder one end to the PCB pin which leads to A5 on the board, the other end to the PCB pin which goes into GND. To make the antenna of your device, take a piece of solid core wire (about 15 cm long), and solder one end of it to the PCB pin which leads to GND on the arduino nano. Finally, grap two short pieces of electric wire. You will use them to connect a 9V battery to the arduino nano and power the board. Solder one end of the first cable to VIN on the arduino nano, solder one end of the other cable to GND. solder one end of the other cable to GND.)
    • DIY Custom NeoPixel Rings From Scratch!  + (The next step in making your printed circuThe next step in making your printed circuit board is making your connections between your LEDs. NeoPixels each have one data-input pad and one data-output pad. First create a long chain starting with the pixel closest to where you plan on placing your interface pins, going from one pixel's data-out pin to the next pixel's data-in pin. After that you'll need to route power and ground. The easiest method I have come up with to do this is to use a combination of circles and semi-circles, four in total, alternating between power and ground as you move outward from the origin. This makes it easy to create a small "jumper" connection as apposed to manually wiring every since LED together, twice. The two pairs of circles/semi-circles can then be tied together whichever way is most convenient. Finally, a copper pour is added. This essentially just causes all extra space to be filled by "ground", which has multiple advantages including being easier to manufacture at home. You will also want to install one roughly .1uf capacitor between power and ground between each set of two LEDs. The manufacture recommends one per LED however its likely one per two will do and they are time consuming to solder. These are not necessary for the functionality of the device, they simply improve the lifespan of the LEDs, so they can be ignored if needed.he LEDs, so they can be ignored if needed.)
    • DIY Custom NeoPixel Rings From Scratch!  + (The next step in making your printed circuThe next step in making your printed circuit board is making your connections between your LEDs. NeoPixels each have one data-input pad and one data-output pad. First create a long chain starting with the pixel closest to where you plan on placing your interface pins, going from one pixel's data-out pin to the next pixel's data-in pin. After that you'll need to route power and ground. The easiest method I have come up with to do this is to use a combination of circles and semi-circles, four in total, alternating between power and ground as you move outward from the origin. This makes it easy to create a small "jumper" connection as apposed to manually wiring every since LED together, twice. The two pairs of circles/semi-circles can then be tied together whichever way is most convenient. Finally, a copper pour is added. This essentially just causes all extra space to be filled by "ground", which has multiple advantages including being easier to manufacture at home. You will also want to install one roughly .1uf capacitor between power and ground between each set of two LEDs. The manufacture recommends one per LED however its likely one per two will do and they are time consuming to solder. These are not necessary for the functionality of the device, they simply improve the lifespan of the LEDs, so they can be ignored if needed.he LEDs, so they can be ignored if needed.)
    • Marble Machine No 1 Motor Assembly Instructions  + (The parts can be glued together in one go The parts can be glued together in one go and the parts held in place with rubber bands  The bottom '''should not '''be glued but can be used to hold parts aligned while the glue dries. The bottom is left loose for access to switch and batteries. If you don't want the text to be visible, simply turn the part so it face inwards. When viewed from the front the holes for the motor mount (circled in red) should face left as shown in the picture below.d face left as shown in the picture below.)
    • PiKon telescope  + (The PiKon telescope is a robust design butThe PiKon telescope is a robust design but there are two issues that need care if you are to get the most out of your project. '''Dust and the Camera Sensor''' PiKon benefits from a very simple design that has just one optical component. The lens of the Raspberry Pi Camera is removed to allow imaging by the Optical Mirror. This means that the Raspberry Pi Camera sensor is exposed to dust and dirt. Adding sensor protection would add two optical surfaces to the design, so the sensor is left exposed. This is not a problem provided care is taken to avoid dust and dirt getting on the sensor. '''Care of the Mirror''' As with all reflecting telescopes, care must be taken to avoid damaging the mirror. When assembling or modifying the telescope be careful not to let components drop down the Telescope Tube onto the Mirror.p down the Telescope Tube onto the Mirror.)
    • Showerloop - Guide 2: Filters  + (There are 2 lids per filter, the top lid aThere are 2 lids per filter, the top lid and bottom lid - duh. A hex nut is used to fasten the hose nipple (facing away from the filter) to the filter lid. The dimensions of hex nuts and/or hose nipples may vary regionally so it's best to get them first,check the measurements and modify the file if needed. In the picture of the lid only a circle was etched/milled into the acrylic lid to fit the hex nut but the design was later revised to have the shape of the hex nut itself, thereby fastening it to the lid so that it could no longer rotate (and prevent fastening) when adding the hose nipple on the outer side of the lid. hose nipple on the outer side of the lid.)
    • E-Textile Monster  + (This is where you need to decide what shapThis is where you need to decide what shape you want your monster to be and what components it will include. You need to make sure there is room for each of your components and the battery pack as well as decide where you want to squeeze the monster for the components to turn on. TIP: do not make your monster too big making your circuit components too spread out! Otherwise you will spend a long time sewing to connect the components together sewing to connect the components together)
    • PP Sheetpress  + (====Tools==== same as above ====Parts========Tools==== same as above ====Parts==== 36 corner brackets ====Steps==== # Prepare your parts. Each "cell" will require 4 brackets, 16 M8Bolts, and 16 washers # Starting with the 4 corners of the ''entire assembly'', attach the corner brackets and tighten the bolts only to finger-tight. # Next attach the 920 beam ends to the outer perimeter. # Next, attach the inner beams in place. Ensure that all beams are equally spaced. (remember that the 2 interior beams are shorter though)
      interior beams are shorter though) <br/>)
    • SolarOSE - Guide 1: Support structure of the mirror field  + (Use the grinder to cut at the length of 2130 mm the two main squared tubes and at the length of 1430 mm the 2 square tubes for the support.)
    • SolarOSE - Guide 1: Support structure of the mirror field  + (Use the grinder to cut at the length of 2130 mm the two main squared tubes and at the length of 1430 mm the 2 square tubes for the support.)
    • Glowing LED Butterfly  + (Use TinkerCad to design the component thatUse TinkerCad to design the component that will be 3D printed. This is a great opportunity to develop your computer aided design (CAD) skills! What to think about.. - Needs to have holes for the light to go through - Needs to be big enough to hide the Arduino and PCB - Needs to be able to sit on the top of the 9V battery Pre-made butterfly design can be found through this linkrfly design can be found through this link)
    • Escooterfix - Replace front LED lamp Xiaomi Mi electric scooter  + (Using your nails or a plastic spudger, carefully lift the two plastic covers from the top of the stem. They are held on with foam tape so a hairdryer on a cool setting can warm the adhesive and aide the release if you are having difficulty.)
    • Replace dashboard and bluetooth card Xiaomi electric scooter  + (Using your nails or a plastic spudger, carefully lift the two plastic covers from the top of the stem. They are held on with foam tape so a hairdryer on a cool setting can warm the adhesive and aide the release if you are having difficulty.)
    • SolarOSE - Guide 5: CPC Reflector  + (With a cutter, cut a 340x680 mm rectangle With a cutter, cut a 340x680 mm rectangle of mirror sheet. Mind to protect the reflective surface of the mirror during the operation and to work on the back side. One needs to run the cutter several times to bite the metal and to fold back and forth in order to detach it.fold back and forth in order to detach it.)
    • SolarOSE - Guide 5: CPC Reflector  + (With a cutter, cut a 340x680 mm rectangle With a cutter, cut a 340x680 mm rectangle of mirror sheet. Mind to protect the reflective surface of the mirror during the operation and to work on the back side. One needs to run the cutter several times to bite the metal and to fold back and forth in order to detach it.fold back and forth in order to detach it.)
    • Getting Started with 3.5 Inch PC State Display  + (If you are a PC enthusiast, you might wantIf you are a PC enthusiast, you might want to monitor the performance and status of your PC components, such as CPU, GPU, RAM, SSD, HDD, temperature, fan speed, etc. However, opening the task manager or third-party software every time you want to check this information can be inconvenient and distracting. Moreover, you might not be able to see this information when you are gaming or doing other full-screen activities. That’s why a 3.5-inch PC state display can be a great addition to your PC setup. A 3.5-inch PC state display is a small screen that can be mounted on your PC case and display various information about your PC state. It can show you the CPU model, usage, frequency, temperature, fan speed, GPU model, usage, frequency, temperature, fan speed, RAM usage, SSD/HDD usage, network speed, IP address, weather forecast, and custom information. You can also choose from different themes and orientations to suit your preferences. A 3.5-inch PC state display can help you monitor your PC state at a glance, without interrupting your workflow or gaming experience. It can also enhance the aesthetics and functionality of your PC case, making it more personalized and attractive. Whether you are a gamer, a streamer, a content creator, or a professional, a 3.5-inch PC state display can be a useful and fun tool for your PC. In this article, I will show you how to get started with a 3.5-inch PC state display, how to install it, how to customize it, and how to use it. Let’s begin!tomize it, and how to use it. Let’s begin!)
    • Neo Pixels Ring with Arduino Nano  + (You must check out [https://www.pcbway.comYou must check out [https://www.pcbway.com/ PCBWAY] for ordering PCBs online for cheap! You get 10 good-quality PCBs manufactured and shipped to your doorstep for cheap. You will also get a discount on shipping on your first order. Upload your Gerber files onto [https://www.pcbway.com/ PCBWAY t]o get them manufactured with good quality and quick turnaround time. PCBWay now could provide a complete product solution, from design to enclosure production. Check out their online Gerber viewer function. With reward points, you can get free stuff from their gift shop. Also, check out this useful blog on PCBWay Plugin for KiCad from [https://www.pcbway.com/blog/News/PCBWay_Plug_In_for_KiCad_3ea6219c.html here. U]sing this plugin, you can directly order PCBs in just one click after completing your design in KiCad.ick after completing your design in KiCad.)
    • OpenKnit: digital fabrication tool to create your own clothes  + (You'll need to thread: two 20x20x800 mm bars: 6 mm tool on both sides. two 30x30x800 mm bars: 8 mm tool on both sides. two 30x30x162 mm bars: 8 mm tool on ONE side, plus one 8 mm hole on the top (see image).)
    • Pet that lights up upon interaction  + (You will need to use Arduino IDE to code aYou will need to use Arduino IDE to code and upload the firmware onto your ESP32 board. Download the software by visiting [https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software? Arduino IDE] > Scroll down until you see the “Download the Arduino IDE” section and choose the version based upon your operating system (e.g. If you have Windows 7, choose “Windows Installer” / if you have Windows 10, choose “Windows app”) > On the next page choose “Just download” and run the installation files. “Just download” and run the installation files.)
    • Pet that lights up upon interaction  + (You will need to use Arduino IDE to code aYou will need to use Arduino IDE to code and upload the firmware onto your ESP32 board. Download the software by visiting [https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software? Arduino IDE] > Scroll down until you see the “Download the Arduino IDE” section and choose the version based upon your operating system (e.g. If you have Windows 7, choose “Windows Installer” / if you have Windows 10, choose “Windows app”) > On the next page choose “Just download” and run the installation files. “Just download” and run the installation files.)