This is a property of type Text.
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Cet outil est mixe. Il combine à la fois une machine à coudre et une brodeuse numérique.
A gauche, le sabot qui une fois enclenché permettra d'avoir sa machine en mode brodeuse numérique. +, Faire coulisser le sabot afin de l’emboîter sur la machine à coudre. +, Brancher la machine avec le cordon secteur, sur la machine et le secteur. +, …
Lorsque qu'on ouvre Futura le grand tambour s'affiche, dans notre cas nous voulons le petit, puisque qu'au début du tutoriel je vous ai indiqué de prendre le petit tambour.
<br/>
* Menu "outils"
* "Sélectionner" le tambour
* "Petit" +,
* "Suivant"
+, Cette étape permet d'indiquer à la machine si elle doit coudre ou pas entre les blocs .
"utiliser point courant" : elle coud entre les blocs
"utiliser un point sauté" : elle saute entre les blocs +, …
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Pour souder, nous avons placer des baguettes dans les coins pour centrer le rond plein, puis souder aux extrémités. Nous avons ensuite percer le tube de deux trous sur chaque face, puis souder à l'intérieur des trous. +, Nous avons dû revoir la conception de certaines pièces car le projet d'origine (precious plastic) propose un axe central hexagonal (voir 2ème photo)… que nous n'avons pas trouvé ! Seule piste, sur Radiospare : [http://fr.rs-online.com/web/p/tubes-barres-tiges-et-hexagones-en-acier/4243475/Barre Hexagonale - Acier Doux - 1000mm x 25mm à 64,45€] ! Nous n'avons pas voulu prendre le risque que cet acier (doux) ne supporte pas la pression, et comme nous n'avons pas de tour suffisamment grand pour arrondir la pièce hexagonale aux extrémités, nous avons opté pour une autre solution.
Contrairement à l'axe central proposé par Precious Plastic, nous proposons donc une autre conception, plus facile à faire, plus D.I.Y. Il s'agit de prendre un tube carré de 25mm en acier et un rond plein de 20 mm en acier, qu'il faut couper et souder. +, Fichiers de découpe laser du LFO : [http://reso-nance.org/wiki/_media/projets/precious_plastic/broyeuse/machoires_decoupelaser_acierinoxydable.zip machoires_decoupelaser_acierinoxydable.zip]
* Photo 2 : 3 mm
* Photo 3 : 5 mm
* Photo 4 : 6 mm +, …
Pour souder, nous avons placer des baguettes dans les coins pour centrer le rond plein, puis souder aux extrémités. Nous avons ensuite percer le tube de deux trous sur chaque face, puis souder à l'intérieur des trous. +, Nous avons dû revoir la conception de certaines pièces car le projet d'origine (precious plastic) propose un axe central hexagonal (voir 2ème photo)… que nous n'avons pas trouvé ! Seule piste, sur Radiospare : [http://fr.rs-online.com/web/p/tubes-barres-tiges-et-hexagones-en-acier/4243475/Barre Hexagonale - Acier Doux - 1000mm x 25mm à 64,45€] ! Nous n'avons pas voulu prendre le risque que cet acier (doux) ne supporte pas la pression, et comme nous n'avons pas de tour suffisamment grand pour arrondir la pièce hexagonale aux extrémités, nous avons opté pour une autre solution.
Contrairement à l'axe central proposé par Precious Plastic, nous proposons donc une autre conception, plus facile à faire, plus D.I.Y. Il s'agit de prendre un tube carré de 25mm en acier et un rond plein de 20 mm en acier, qu'il faut couper et souder. +, Fichiers de découpe laser du LFO : [http://reso-nance.org/wiki/_media/projets/precious_plastic/broyeuse/machoires_decoupelaser_acierinoxydable.zip machoires_decoupelaser_acierinoxydable.zip]
* Photo 2 : 3 mm
* Photo 3 : 5 mm
* Photo 4 : 6 mm +, …
Bend the sides of the bucket outwards a few times in each direction to loosen the concrete; then pull the stool out by the legs. +, The concrete has not yet fully hardened and is pretty easy to work with. 120 grit sand paper can be used to smooth the edges. +, Pain the legs. Use a masking tape to make a clean separation between the rough and painted wood.
Before painting, clean the surface to which you'll paint.
Wait for the surface to dry completely before removing the tape. +, …
Bend the sides of the bucket outwards a few times in each direction to loosen the concrete; then pull the stool out by the legs. +, The concrete has not yet fully hardened and is pretty easy to work with. 120 grit sand paper can be used to smooth the edges. +, Pain the legs. Use a masking tape to make a clean separation between the rough and painted wood.
Before painting, clean the surface to which you'll paint.
Wait for the surface to dry completely before removing the tape. +, …
You will require a 6.2-inch long ¾” tube, a ¾” adapter, and a 10-inch wheel with a tee made of black steel. We will begin by constructing the wheelbase, creating two identical units. Follow the same procedure for both wheels, referring to the diagram above for the required parts (x2).
Insert the 6.2-inch long ¾” tube into the ¾” adapter. Then, place the assembled adapter into the 10-inch wheel with tee, as shown in the diagram. Once completed, set them aside until you are ready to attach them to the frame later on. +, For this step, you will need a ¾” elbow, a 6-inch long ¾” tube, a 3-inch long ¾” tube, a ¾” tee, a 13-inch long ¾” tube, and a ¾” cap. The diagram provided illustrates half of your front frame. Therefore, you need to replicate this structure twice (x2).
The second frame should mirror the one shown above, essentially appearing identical but in reverse. Attach the 6-inch long ¾” tube to the ¾” elbow. Then, connect this piece to the central hole of the ¾” tee. Attach the 3-inch long ¾” tube to the right hole of the tee, and the 13-inch long ¾” tube to the remaining hole. Finally, cap the end of the 13-inch tube with the ¾” cap.
Once completed, you should have two identical halves of your front frame. We will revisit these later in the assembly process. +, For this step, you will need a ¾” 4-Way Outlet, two 7-inch long ¾” tubes, and two ¾” Wyes. It's time to build both side frames of your dog wheelchair. The diagram provided shows only the left side frame, so begin by assembling it. Then, create a second frame that mirrors the design shown above. +, …
Before you start putting together your longboard, you'll need to do some cutting and drilling. Begin by cutting your threaded rods into two pieces, each 8 inches long. Use a fret file to smooth out the rods, which are 5/16" x 12" inches in size.
Next, apply grip tape to the board. Cut the grip tape to be about one centimeter wider than the board, then press it onto the board and trim off any excess.
With your 6º wedge riser, mark where you'll drill to attach the INOX Allen bolts, which are 1/4" x 1.5" in size. Ensure the marks are centered on the ends of your board.
Safety is crucial, so wear gloves and safety glasses during this process. Carefully drill four holes, making sure they are clean and precise. We used a 3D-printed part to help us drill the holes in the cap perfectly centered. If you'd like access to the design for this part, please let us know, and we'll share it with you.
Finally, position the drill in the middle of your 1" cap and drill each hole carefully. The 1" cap should have a similar appearance to the one shown in the image. +, <nowiki>Let's now assemble the skateboard truck for the wheels. Please keep all parts within reach to prevent any confusion. For this step, gather the following materials:<br /><br /><br/><br /><br />* ½” - 1” Galvanized Steel Nipples<br />* 6º Wedge Risers<br />* Steel Brackets<br />* ¼” x 1.5” INOX Allen Bolts<br />* ⅜” INOX Flat Washers<br />* Skateboard Rubber Bushings<br />* 5/16” Nuts<br /><br />Start by taking the drilled 1" cap and inserting a 3/8 " x 1 3/4 " INOX Allen Bolt through the hole, followed by an INOX Flat Washer 3/8'' x 3/8'' and a skateboard rubber bushing. Repeat this process four times.<br /><br />Next, take your steel brackets and attach the assembled parts, ensuring the bracket is facing downward. Add another bushing, then a flat washer, and finally secure it with a nut. Repeat this step twice.<br /><br />Now, assemble the 3-Way and 2” nipples. Attach two nipples to each 3-Way. Then, attach two of the previously assembled parts. Be careful not to tighten the parts too much; leave the cap slightly loose.<br /><br />Attach this assembly to the cap attached to the bracket. Carefully tighten both caps simultaneously. Refer closely to the video for guidance, and then tighten the nuts securely.<br /><br />Attach 4 1/2 " - 3" Galvanized Steel Nipples to the sides of the 3-Way, with the drill cap at the end.<br /><br />Insert the threaded rod 5/16" x 12" inches, ensuring it's even on both sides, and then tighten the 5/16" nuts.</nowiki> +, Let's turn our attention to the wheels. Begin by inserting the 608zz bearings, followed by the bearing spacers, and then the 5/16" nuts. Press them down firmly to ensure they are securely in place. Use the threaded rod to align them perfectly in the middle. Once all four wheels are prepared, attach them to the truck.
Next, attach the riser and truck to the wooden board, and tighten the truck nuts. Your longboard should have a similar level of flexibility to mine. Finally, tighten the Kingpin.
Your longboard should look like this: +
Create a cloud account at io.adafruit.com. Then click on Feeds→Actions→Create a New Feed. Name it “ISS.” Click the View AIO Key button, then copy your unique '''''key''''' somewhere safe — you’ll need it later to link your Tokymaker to your Adafruit IO feed. +, Create an account at ifttt.com. This site links Internet services in a very simple way. In our case: ''If'' the ISS passes over a specific address, ''then'' send the number 100 to your Adafruit ISS feed.
First you’ll choose the '''''trigger'''''. Select New Applet, then click on “+ this” and type “Space” in the search bar. Click the Space icon, then choose “ISS passes over a specific location,” then type your address and click on “Create trigger”.
Next, create the '''''action''''': sending the number 100 to the Adafruit IO feed. Click on “+ that” and choose Adafruit. Click the Connect button and complete the fields in the popup window. Then, click on “Create action.” The cloud setup is done! +, Now for the physical part: Every time the number 100 is in the Adafruit IO feed, your Tokymaker will run a program to turn on a light, move a motor, whatever you want. Go to tokylabs.com/ISS and download the basic ISS Notifier code to your Tokymaker. (Or make it yourself at create.tokylabs.com!) +, …
Create a cloud account at io.adafruit.com. Then click on Feeds→Actions→Create a New Feed. Name it “ISS.” Click the View AIO Key button, then copy your unique '''''key''''' somewhere safe — you’ll need it later to link your Tokymaker to your Adafruit IO feed. +, Create an account at ifttt.com. This site links Internet services in a very simple way. In our case: ''If'' the ISS passes over a specific address, ''then'' send the number 100 to your Adafruit ISS feed.
First you’ll choose the '''''trigger'''''. Select New Applet, then click on “+ this” and type “Space” in the search bar. Click the Space icon, then choose “ISS passes over a specific location,” then type your address and click on “Create trigger”.
Next, create the '''''action''''': sending the number 100 to the Adafruit IO feed. Click on “+ that” and choose Adafruit. Click the Connect button and complete the fields in the popup window. Then, click on “Create action.” The cloud setup is done! +, Now for the physical part: Every time the number 100 is in the Adafruit IO feed, your Tokymaker will run a program to turn on a light, move a motor, whatever you want. Go to tokylabs.com/ISS and download the basic ISS Notifier code to your Tokymaker. (Or make it yourself at create.tokylabs.com!) +, …
استغلال مساحات أحواش المنازل: +
Mark out the area in your yard and using either timber or pavers set out a firm foundation for the frame to stand on.
Make sure its level and all the corners are square.
If using timber make sure it's treated, that will prevent it from rotting.
Keeping the chicken coop off the ground is not essential, but it is a good idea,
We've used a 200mm x 70mm treated pine timber section from Bunnings, and please note these timber sections are not included with the Somerzby [https://www.somerzby.com.au/chickens/ Chicken Coops]. +, All the corners should be fixed together well using a corner bracket or screws.
It’s important that the base is level, walls, floors and roofing will be fit and work much better sitting on a level base / foundation. +, Position and attach the external wall panels making sure all corners are square and are on a level base / foundation.
The internal wall and coop flooring is then attached to the external walls +, …
Mark out the area in your yard and using either timber or pavers set out a firm foundation for the frame to stand on.
Make sure its level and all the corners are square.
If using timber make sure it's treated, that will prevent it from rotting.
Keeping the chicken coop off the ground is not essential, but it is a good idea,
We've used a 200mm x 70mm treated pine timber section from Bunnings, and please note these timber sections are not included with the Somerzby [https://www.somerzby.com.au/chickens/ Chicken Coops]. +, All the corners should be fixed together well using a corner bracket or screws.
It’s important that the base is level, walls, floors and roofing will be fit and work much better sitting on a level base / foundation. +, Position and attach the external wall panels making sure all corners are square and are on a level base / foundation.
The internal wall and coop flooring is then attached to the external walls +, …
plywoodExport.py est un logiciel qui est construit à partir de freeCAD, un autre logiciel. Pour l'instant on ne peux l'utiliser qu'en ligne de commande mais il devrait à terme devenir un plugin de freeCAD, accessible depuis l'interface graphique.
Ce script permet de séparer chaque face d'un maillage 3d, de le mettre en plan, et d'y découper des encoches qui permettent de l'assembler avec ses pièces voisines. On obtient ainsi un puzzle en 3 dimensions avec des pièce (heureusement) numérotées.
Le script permet de choisir plusieurs paramètres, notamment l'épaisseur du matériau (thickness) et d'autres, notamment le rayon de la fraise utilisée si on utilise une fraiseuse CNC, par exemple.
Ici, on va faire une mise en plan pour un matériaux de 5mm dépaisseur, en l'occurence du carton.
python plywoodexport.py --thickness 5 buste_a_facette_en_3d.stl buste_a_facette_en_plan.svg
Les images ci-contre sont obtenu après reconstruction du modèle dans freecad, et permet de voir le résultat une fois qu'on aura assemblé les pièces. +, Dans le fichier svg obtenu en sortie, les pièces sont en partie superposées. (voir la première image ci-contre). Il faut donc les déplacer pour les répartir correctement sur la ou les pièces que l'ont va découper. On utilise pour cela le logiciel inkscape. Ici on a finalement pu placer toutes les pièces obtenues dans une planche de 120cm par 60cm.
Le gcode est ensuite exporté depuis inkscape avec le plugin [http://fablabo.net/wiki/Laserengraver LaserEngraverSmoothie]. +, Dans MakeHuman, on peut choisir le genre, l'age et les mensurations d'un personnage à partir d'une série de curseurs à glissières.
On peut ensuite l'exporter au format STL. +, …
plywoodExport.py est un logiciel qui est construit à partir de freeCAD, un autre logiciel. Pour l'instant on ne peux l'utiliser qu'en ligne de commande mais il devrait à terme devenir un plugin de freeCAD, accessible depuis l'interface graphique.
Ce script permet de séparer chaque face d'un maillage 3d, de le mettre en plan, et d'y découper des encoches qui permettent de l'assembler avec ses pièces voisines. On obtient ainsi un puzzle en 3 dimensions avec des pièce (heureusement) numérotées.
Le script permet de choisir plusieurs paramètres, notamment l'épaisseur du matériau (thickness) et d'autres, notamment le rayon de la fraise utilisée si on utilise une fraiseuse CNC, par exemple.
Ici, on va faire une mise en plan pour un matériaux de 5mm dépaisseur, en l'occurence du carton.
python plywoodexport.py --thickness 5 buste_a_facette_en_3d.stl buste_a_facette_en_plan.svg
Les images ci-contre sont obtenu après reconstruction du modèle dans freecad, et permet de voir le résultat une fois qu'on aura assemblé les pièces. +, Dans le fichier svg obtenu en sortie, les pièces sont en partie superposées. (voir la première image ci-contre). Il faut donc les déplacer pour les répartir correctement sur la ou les pièces que l'ont va découper. On utilise pour cela le logiciel inkscape. Ici on a finalement pu placer toutes les pièces obtenues dans une planche de 120cm par 60cm.
Le gcode est ensuite exporté depuis inkscape avec le plugin [http://fablabo.net/wiki/Laserengraver LaserEngraverSmoothie]. +, Dans MakeHuman, on peut choisir le genre, l'age et les mensurations d'un personnage à partir d'une série de curseurs à glissières.
On peut ensuite l'exporter au format STL. +, …
The battery holder can be found on TinkerCAD as 'Battery Holder - Buzzing Bee' at the link
This CAD will need to be saved as a .stl file
Open the .stl file in the printer software for your printer
After centring and adjusting the settings as needed, slice the print and transfer the new created file to the printer. PRINT!
<br/> +, The bumble bee design for the main body can be found on TinkerCAD as 'Bee move body piece', at this link
Following the same steps as for the battery holder, print this out using the 3D printer. Make sure to include supports as there are some areas of overhang, such as the wings.
If the participants already has some experience with TinkerCAD, this could be a chance for them to create their own design.
Things to think about:
- How big does it need to be to make sure that the battery holder can fit?
- What shape is the battery holder when the circuit is attached?
- How should the main body be designed to make sure it fits inside
- With only using a small vibrating motor, think about the overall size so that it is not too big or heavy. +, For the circuit you will need a lithium coin cell, a vibrating motor and a slide switch.
First test your vibrating motor by connecting the negative wire (usually black) with the negative side of the battery, and the positive wire (red) with the positive side of the battery. It should start to vibrate.
Insert the switch into the back hole of the 3D printed holder and stick into place using a glue gun.
Take the vibrating motor and mount it on the back left corner of the 3D printed holder with the wires exiting towards where the battery will sit.
Connect the positive wire (red) from the vibrating motor to one of the switch's middle pins. Attach the wire to the pin by soldering.
The negative wire (black) from the vibrating motor needs to touch the negative side of the battery. It can be held in place using a small piece of Sellotape.
Insert the battery into the holder. It may need a small piece of folded card to sit under it to make sure it sits high enough so that the top surface (positive side) of the battery touches the lower pins of the switch.
In summary:
+ve vibrator connection to middle pin of switch (soldered)
-ve vibrator connection to -ve side of battery (held by tape)
Battery sat in holder with +ve side up, raised high enough to touch bottom pin of the switch +, …
C
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