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Un dôme géodésique est une structure aux multiples propriétés très intéressantes : outre l’aspect esthétique original, ce type de structure offre une excellente résistance aux intempéries et une résistance mécanique élevée. Elle est composée de montants (en bois, métal, PVC...) reliés entre eux par des connecteurs.
Lors de la conception d’un dôme : plusieurs facteurs sont à prendre en compte :
*<u>Le diamètre</u> : Plus il est élevé, plus la construction du dôme sera complexe et plus la hauteur sous plafond du dôme sera importante (hauteur sous plafond = rayon du dôme).
A noter que toute construction dépassant 20 m² doit faire l’objet d’une demande de permis de construire auprès de la commune.
*<u>La fréquence :</u> Pour un diamètre donné, il est possible de construire le dôme avec une densité plus ou moins élevée de montants et de connecteurs : c’est ce qu’on appelle la fréquence.
Ici nous allons réaliser un dôme de fréquence 2, le plus simple à réaliser (et donc le moins coûteux), cependant la méthodologie reste applicable pour tous types de dôme.
*<u>Le support :</u> Selon l’utilisation du dôme il faut prévoir un système de support (ou base) : dans notre cas l’utilisation du dôme en tant que serre nous permet de poser directement le dôme sur des plots en béton sans construire de plancher. +, Un dôme de fréquence 2 est constitué de 2 types de montants, chacun ayant des longueurs différentes.
Afin de faciliter les calculs de ces longueurs, nous avons créé une feuille de calcul Excel "Calcul Longueurs Dôme", joint à ce tuto.
Seules les cellules en rouge sont à compléter.
Si vous souhaitez réaliser un dôme sans connecteurs, vous pouvez utiliser les "Longueurs théoriques"
Sinon il faut rentrer quelques informations pour adapter les longueurs des montants.
*<u>Rentrer la surface du dôme souhaité:</u> Cela permet de calculer en direct les longueurs théoriques des montants à fabriquer.
Si vous ne connaissez pas la surface du dôme à réaliser, mais seulement son rayon, vous pouvez la calculer simplement :''' Surface = 3.14*Rayon².'''
*<u>Rentrer le « Rayon Perçage Connecteur » et la « Distance Perçage Montant »:</u> Ces valeurs permettent de calculer les longueur réelle des montants à couper.
La « Distance perçage montant » est la distance entre le centre du perçage et le bout du montant. Dans notre exemple cette valeur est de 40 mm.
Le « Rayon Perçage connecteur » est la distance entre le centre du perçage et le centre du connecteur : dans notre exemple, pour un connecteur de diamètre 300mm, le rayon de perçage choisi est de 100 mm.
Les "Longueurs réelles" sont les longueurs des montants à découper.
<br/>L’Excel permet également d’estimer le prix du dôme (bois des montants, des connecteurs et de la visserie) ainsi que de comparer plusieurs produits et fournisseurs.
Il suffit de renseigner les cases en rouge pour le bois des montants, la visserie et le bois des connecteurs.(exemple surligné en orange).
Afin de limiter les chutes, il est possible d’utiliser un fichier Excel (« Optimisation découpe lambourdes », joint au tuto) qui permet d’optimiser la coupe des montants dans des lambourdes de longueur donnée, afin de limiter les chutes. Merci à [https://forum.excel-pratique.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=1835 Nad-Dan] de forum.excel-pratique.com pour avoir partagé son programme.
<div class="icon-instructions idea-icon">
<div class="icon-instructions-icon"><i class="fa fa-lightbulb-o"></i></div>
<div class="icon-instructions-text">Mise à jour: Le fichier 'Calcul longeurs dôme" permet maintenant de calculer le nombre exact de plaque CP nécessaire.
Il permet aussi de calculer les longeurs pour un dôme 5/9 de fréquence 3.</div>
</div><br/> , Quel que soit le diamètre d’un dôme de fréquence 2, les angles des montants sont toujours identiques : 16 et 18 degrés respectivement pour les types A et B. +, …
Quel que soit le diamètre d’un dôme de fréquence 2, les angles des montants sont toujours identiques : 16 et 18 degrés respectivement pour les types A et B. +, Un dôme géodésique est une structure aux multiples propriétés très intéressantes : outre l’aspect esthétique original, ce type de structure offre une excellente résistance aux intempéries et une résistance mécanique élevée. Elle est composée de montants (en bois, métal, PVC...) reliés entre eux par des connecteurs.
Lors de la conception d’un dôme : plusieurs facteurs sont à prendre en compte :
*<u>Le diamètre</u> : Plus il est élevé, plus la construction du dôme sera complexe et plus la hauteur sous plafond du dôme sera importante (hauteur sous plafond = rayon du dôme).
A noter que toute construction dépassant 20 m² doit faire l’objet d’une demande de permis de construire auprès de la commune.
*<u>La fréquence :</u> Pour un diamètre donné, il est possible de construire le dôme avec une densité plus ou moins élevée de montants et de connecteurs : c’est ce qu’on appelle la fréquence.
Ici nous allons réaliser un dôme de fréquence 2, le plus simple à réaliser (et donc le moins coûteux), cependant la méthodologie reste applicable pour tous types de dôme.
*<u>Le support :</u> Selon l’utilisation du dôme il faut prévoir un système de support (ou base) : dans notre cas l’utilisation du dôme en tant que serre nous permet de poser directement le dôme sur des plots en béton sans construire de plancher. +, Un dôme de fréquence 2 est constitué de 3 types de connecteurs : des 4, 5 et 6 trous.
Les positions exactes des perçages sont données sur les plans en .PDF joints à ce tuto : les positions angulaires des perçages sont identiques quelques soit le diamètre du dôme réalisé.
Si vous voulez réaliser un dôme de 20m², les plans de toutes les pièces utilisées sont joints à ce tuto. +, …
Une fois les longueurs des montants obtenues il faut à chaque extrémités couper les angles correspondants à chaque type de montants. Une photo montre l'installation des montants pour la découpe des angles. +, Aller sur [https://simplydifferently.org/Geodesic_Dome_Notes?page=3 simplydifferently.org/Geodesic_Dome_Notes?page=3] +, Le petit bout de bois debout sur la photo sert de pige pour marquer le perçage qui doit se trouver au centre à 3cm de l'extrémité. Au perçage, utilisez une mèche plus grande que le diamètre de vos boulons (percez à 10 pour des boulons de 8).
<div class="icon-instructions info-icon">
<div class="icon-instructions-icon"><i class="fa fa-info-circle"></i></div>
<div class="icon-instructions-text">Attention, la mèche doit être perpendiculaire au plan de l'angle que nous avons découpé.</div>
</div> +, …
Une fois les longueurs des montants obtenues il faut à chaque extrémités couper les angles correspondants à chaque type de montants. Une photo montre l'installation des montants pour la découpe des angles. +, Aller sur [https://simplydifferently.org/Geodesic_Dome_Notes?page=3 simplydifferently.org/Geodesic_Dome_Notes?page=3] +, Le petit bout de bois debout sur la photo sert de pige pour marquer le perçage qui doit se trouver au centre à 3cm de l'extrémité. Au perçage, utilisez une mèche plus grande que le diamètre de vos boulons (percez à 10 pour des boulons de 8).
<div class="icon-instructions info-icon">
<div class="icon-instructions-icon"><i class="fa fa-info-circle"></i></div>
<div class="icon-instructions-text">Attention, la mèche doit être perpendiculaire au plan de l'angle que nous avons découpé.</div>
</div> +, …
E
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'''<u>Le produit</u>''':
Il s'agit du système d'accroche du club. Nous allons le coller avec de la glue sur le boitier. Le système se referme sur le club à l'aide de vis.
'''<u>Problèmes rencontrés</u>''':
Ce système d'accroche n'est valable que pour un seul diamètre de club.
<u>'''Lien vers le projet sur Fusion360'''</u>:
http://a360.co/2IF5VpB
<u>'''Prix'''</u>: 0.04€ + 0.04€ = 0.08€(pour les deux parties de la boite)
<u>'''Temps'''</u>: 0h10min + 0h14min = 0h24min (pour les deux parties de la boite) +, '''<u>Le produit</u>''':
Il s'agit de la porte pour refermer le boitier. Grâce à ce système l'utilisateur pourra changer, s'il le souhaite, la pile bouton.
L'utilisateur aura, donc, la possibilité de changer la pile ou charger l'appareil via le port micro-USB.
Les trous de fermeture coïncides parfaitement avec ceux du boitier.
'''<u>Problèmes rencontrés</u>''':
Faire une porte plus fine aurait été plus esthétique.
Penser à mettre des piliers aux niveaux des fermetures pour qu'elles soit plus nette. Il nous a suffit de limer pour les rendre nette.
<u>'''Lien vers le projet sur Fusion360'''</u>:
https://a360.co/2IV19aL
<u>'''Prix'''</u>: 0.2€
<u>'''Temps'''</u>: 0h31min +, '''<u>Le produit :</u>'''
Pour avoir le produit final il suffit d'assembler les produits réalisées dans les étapes 3 & 4 & 5 & 6.
On a collé l'accroche avec de la colle sur le boitier.
'''<u>Les points idéaux à améliorer :</u>'''
Le système d'accroche n'est valable que pour un seul type de club de golf.
Le système de fermeture du boitier pourrait être sur le même principe de l'ouverture/fermeture d'accès des piles sur les télécommandes.
<u>'''Liens vers le projet sur Fusion360'''</u>:
http://a360.co/2IF5VpB
https://a360.co/2qXse2G
https://a360.co/2rKfnR5
https://a360.co/2IV19aL
<u>'''Prix total:'''</u> 0.08€ + 0.68€ + 2x0.04€ + 0.2€ = 2.84€
<u>'''Temps total'''</u>: 0h24min + 1h41min + 0h4min + 0h31min = 2h40min
'''<u>Informations importantes:</u>'''
Il s'agit du prix de la fabrication de la boite.
En prévoyant le coup des composants et de l'impression des cartes électroniques, il s'agit d'un projet coûtant 40€. +, …
'''<u>Le produit</u>''':
Nous avons réalisé un premier boitier, avec les fentes du dessus pour les boutons et les leds. La fente du bas est pour les connectiques. Des picots ont été réalisé pour permettre de bloquer la carte entre les deux parties du boîtiers. Il n'y a pas encore de système d'accroche dans cette version.
'''<u>Problèmes rencontrés</u>''':
Nous nous sommes rendu compte que la boite était trop grande, de même pour les fentes des boutons, des leds et des connectiques. Les picots se sont cassés très rapidement après impression. Ils n'étaient pas assez solide.
'''<u>Difficulté rencontrée</u>''':
Nous n'avons par modélisé l'accroche car nous étudions différentes possibilités avant de modéliser.
<u>'''Lien vers le projet sur Fusion360'''</u>:
http://a360.co/2FUxg5w
<u>'''Prix'''</u>: 1.16€ + 1.2€ = 1.36€ (pour les deux parties de la boite)
<u>'''Temps'''</u>: 3h24 + 3h26 = 6h50 (pour les deux parties de la boite) +
This is where you need to decide what shape you want your monster to be and what components it will include. You need to make sure there is room for each of your components and the battery pack as well as decide where you want to squeeze the monster for the components to turn on.
TIP: do not make your monster too big making your circuit components too spread out! Otherwise you will spend a long time sewing to connect the components together +, Using card, draw out the shape of your monster and cut it out. +, Fold the felt in half and draw out the design onto the felt using the template.
Make sure there is a part of the body that lies over the crease so that the back and front remain together after being cut out (as shown in the pictures). +, …
Connect one end of the micro usb cable to the computer, the other end to the Arduino Leonardo board.
Connect the positive side of the LED patch to pin 13 on the Arduino Leonardo. Connect the negative leg of the LED patch to GND on the board. You can use either of the 3 GND pins available on the board.
* black cable - GND
* orange cable - pin 13 +, Before you can start programming your Arduino, you will need to set it up on [http://www.mblock.cc/software/mblock/mblock3/ mBlock].
Choose the version depending on your operating system (e.g. If you have a MacBook, choose “Mac OS” / if you have Windows 10, choose “Windows 7 and above”). Download and run the installation files and then open mBlock.
Select the Arduino Leonardo board from the “Boards” menu.
Then connect to your Arduino board (the COM port number varies based upon your computer’s USB plugs - when you choose the correct one to which your Arduino Leonardo is connected to, the ON and TX led lights on the board will turn solid green, and orange respectively). +, On mBlock, you will need to create a simple code to have your Led patch blink every second.
The code shall look exactly like this: (see image)
You need to drag and drop each block from the “Scripts” section on the middle to the blank area on the right hand side.
You will find each block in the following subsections:
# When <flag> clicked - “Events” subsection
# forever / wait 1 secs - “Control” subsection
# set digital pin… - “Robots” subsection
Note the you can change small details to make your own personal code. For example you can change the frequency of the blinking by shortening or lengthening the delay between each “HIGH” state and “LOW” state of pin 13.
When you are done coding, click on “Upgrade Firmware” in the Connect menu (at which point both the RX and the TX led lights on the board will flash orange).
Do this only once. You can now modify your code without having to Upgrade the Firmware each time. +, …
Connect one end of the micro usb cable to the computer, the other end to the Arduino Leonardo board.
Connect the positive side of the LED patch to pin 13 on the Arduino Leonardo. Connect the negative leg of the LED patch to GND on the board. You can use either of the 3 GND pins available on the board.
* black cable - GND
* orange cable - pin 13 +, Before you can start programming your Arduino, you will need to set it up on [http://www.mblock.cc/software/mblock/mblock3/ mBlock].
Choose the version depending on your operating system (e.g. If you have a MacBook, choose “Mac OS” / if you have Windows 10, choose “Windows 7 and above”). Download and run the installation files and then open mBlock.
Select the Arduino Leonardo board from the “Boards” menu.
Then connect to your Arduino board (the COM port number varies based upon your computer’s USB plugs - when you choose the correct one to which your Arduino Leonardo is connected to, the ON and TX led lights on the board will turn solid green, and orange respectively). +, On mBlock, you will need to create a simple code to have your Led patch blink every second.
The code shall look exactly like this: (see image)
You need to drag and drop each block from the “Scripts” section on the middle to the blank area on the right hand side.
You will find each block in the following subsections:
# When <flag> clicked - “Events” subsection
# forever / wait 1 secs - “Control” subsection
# set digital pin… - “Robots” subsection
Note the you can change small details to make your own personal code. For example you can change the frequency of the blinking by shortening or lengthening the delay between each “HIGH” state and “LOW” state of pin 13.
When you are done coding, click on “Upgrade Firmware” in the Connect menu (at which point both the RX and the TX led lights on the board will flash orange).
Do this only once. You can now modify your code without having to Upgrade the Firmware each time. +, …
The Android app is linked to the smart bin using WIFI or Bluetooth. It collects waste data, contains fun facts to educate people about recycling and waste sorting. To motivate people to keep on sorting their waste, the app also shows you how much money you have accumulated. +, The smart bin, is linked to the app . To create the bin, motors and 4 ultrasonic sensors were used for motion detection, to detect when a user is inserting waste. The board (recyclable wood) was laser cut to divide the waste compartments accordingly. +, Recycle plastics to produce PETG filament for 3D printing. +, …
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It is possible to assemble an EMI probe using an arduino Uno or an arduino nano.
A timelapse of the assembly process of an EMI probe based on arduino nano.
A video of the assembly process of an EMI probe based on arduino uno
''wiring diagram for the EMI probe''
To begin with, solder 3 male headers on the PCB. When you will plug the PCB onto the arduino board, the headers will have to go into pin 9, GND, and Analaog5.
Solder the speaker onto the PCB. The positive leg of the speaker need to be connected to the male header going into pin 9 of the arduino board.
The other leg (negative leg) of the speaker needs be connected to one end of the resistor (via some hook up wire).
Now, solder the resistor onto the PCB. Connect one end of the resistor to the male header going into GND on the arduino board. Connect the other end to the header going into A5.
Grab a piece of solid core wire about 20 cm long, and solder one end in correspondence with the male header going into A5.
Your EMI probe is ready. +, <nowiki>Whether you re using an arduino uno or a nano, the code that you ll need to upload in order for the probe to function correctly is basically the same.<br /><br />Just make sure to program the correct digital pin for the piezo speaker. In the instructions above, we connected the speaker on D9 on an arduino uno, and D3 on an arduino nano.<br /><br />// Arduino Electromagnetic interference detector<br /><br />// Code modified by Patrick Di Justo, based on<br /><br />// Aaron ALAI EMF Detector April 22nd 2009 VERSION 1.0<br /><br />// aaronalai1@gmail.com<br /><br />//<br /><br />// This outputs sound and numeric data to the 4char<br /><br />#include <SoftwareSerial.h><br /><br />#define SerialIn 2<br /><br />#define SerialOut 7<br /><br />#define wDelay 900<br /><br />int inPin = 5;<br /><br />int val = 0;<br /><br />SoftwareSerial mySerialPort(SerialIn, SerialOut);<br /><br />void setup()<br /><br />{<br /><br />pinMode(SerialOut, OUTPUT);<br /><br />pinMode(SerialIn, INPUT);<br /><br />mySerialPort.begin(19200);<br /><br />mySerialPort.print("vv");<br /><br />mySerialPort.print("xxxx");<br /><br />delay(wDelay);<br /><br />mySerialPort.print("----");<br /><br />delay(wDelay);<br /><br />mySerialPort.print("8888");<br /><br />delay(wDelay);<br /><br />mySerialPort.print("xxxx");<br /><br />delay(wDelay);<br /><br />Serial.begin(9600);<br /><br />}<br /><br />void loop()<br /><br />{<br /><br />val = analogRead(inPin);<br /><br />Serial.println(val);<br /><br />dispData(val);<br /><br />val = map(val, 1, 100, 1, 2048);<br /><br />tone(9,val,10);<br /><br />}<br /><br />void dispData(int i)<br /><br />{<br /><br />if ((i<-999)</nowiki> +, <nowiki>https://www.facebook.com/digijeunes/videos/530410277480950/</nowiki> +
The EMI detector comes in two forms: the gadget is mounted on a shield suitable for an arduino uno board, or the detector is embedded on a shield on which an arduino nano is mounted.
We will start by building the shield for arduino uno
here s the wiring diagram for the EMI detector
== Step by step instructions for the Arduino Uno shield ==
First, solder at least a couple of pins to the PCB. These will go into GND and Analog 5 in th arduino uno board.
Next, solder an extra pin on the opposite side of the PCB. This will connect to Digital 9 on the arduino board.
The speaker will also be soldered onto the PCB. Solder the positive end of the speaker to the pin which goes into analog 9 on the arduino.
Solder the negative end of the speaker into the PCB.
Then connect a short (5 cm max) piece of electric wire to the negative end of the speaker. The other end of the cable is soldered on the pin which goes into GND.
Use a 1Mohm resistor to connect the pin which goes into GND and the one that goes into Analog 5 on the PCB (see photo above).
It’s now time to add the antenna of your EMI detector.
Take about 20 cm of solid core wire, and solder one end of it on to the PCB, precisely to the pin that goes into Analog 5 on the board.
= Step by step instructions for the Arduino Nano shield =
An timelapse is available here
Solder two strips of female headers onto a PCB (3cm x 7cm)
You will need to be able to arrange the arduino nano onto these strips of female headers.
Solder the positive side of the speaker to the PCB, in correspondence with the D3 pin. Solder the other end of the speaker onto the PCB, in correspondence with GND pin of the arduino nano.
Next, grab the 1Mohm resistor, and solder one end to the PCB pin which leads to A5 on the board, the other end to the PCB pin which goes into GND.
To make the antenna of your device, take a piece of solid core wire (about 15 cm long), and solder one end of it to the PCB pin which leads to GND on the arduino nano.
Finally, grap two short pieces of electric wire. You will use them to connect a 9V battery to the arduino nano and power the board. Solder one end of the first cable to VIN on the arduino nano, solder one end of the other cable to GND. , You can download the stl file and 3D print the case. The stl file is available[https://drive.google.com/open?id=1RncFtjXTi5H6E6J_COj7BYNa-ry2vzqX <u> here</u>]. +, <nowiki>Whether you re using an arduino uno or a nano, the code that you ll need to upload in order for the probe to function correctly is basically the same.<br /><br />Just make sure to program the correct digital pin for the piezo speaker. In the instructions above, we connected the speaker on D9 on an arduino uno, and D3 on an arduino nano.<br /><br />// Arduino Electromagnetic interference detector<br /><br />// Code modified by Patrick Di Justo, based on<br /><br />// Aaron ALAI EMF Detector April 22nd 2009 VERSION 1.0<br /><br />// aaronalai1@gmail.com<br /><br />//<br /><br />// This outputs sound and numeric data to the 4char<br /><br />#include <SoftwareSerial.h><br /><br />#define SerialIn 2<br /><br />#define SerialOut 7<br /><br />#define wDelay 900<br /><br />int inPin = 5;<br /><br />int val = 0;<br /><br />SoftwareSerial mySerialPort(SerialIn, SerialOut);<br /><br />void setup()<br /><br />{<br /><br />pinMode(SerialOut, OUTPUT);<br /><br />pinMode(SerialIn, INPUT);<br /><br />mySerialPort.begin(19200);<br /><br />mySerialPort.print("vv");<br /><br />mySerialPort.print("xxxx");<br /><br />delay(wDelay);<br /><br />mySerialPort.print("----");<br /><br />delay(wDelay);<br /><br />mySerialPort.print("8888");<br /><br />delay(wDelay);<br /><br />mySerialPort.print("xxxx");<br /><br />delay(wDelay);<br /><br />Serial.begin(9600);<br /><br />}<br /><br />void loop()<br /><br />{<br /><br />val = analogRead(inPin);<br /><br />Serial.println(val);<br /><br />dispData(val);<br /><br />val = map(val, 1, 100, 1, 2048);<br /><br />tone(9,val,10);<br /><br />}<br /><br />void dispData(int i)<br /><br />{<br /><br />if ((i<-999)</nowiki> +, …
<nowiki>Whether you re using an arduino uno or a nano, the code that you ll need to upload in order for the probe to function correctly is basically the same.<br /><br />Just make sure to program the correct digital pin for the piezo speaker. In the instructions above, we connected the speaker on D9 on an arduino uno, and D3 on an arduino nano.<br /><br />// Arduino Electromagnetic interference detector<br /><br />// Code modified by Patrick Di Justo, based on<br /><br />// Aaron ALAI EMF Detector April 22nd 2009 VERSION 1.0<br /><br />// aaronalai1@gmail.com<br /><br />//<br /><br />// This outputs sound and numeric data to the 4char<br /><br />#include <SoftwareSerial.h><br /><br />#define SerialIn 2<br /><br />#define SerialOut 7<br /><br />#define wDelay 900<br /><br />int inPin = 5;<br /><br />int val = 0;<br /><br />SoftwareSerial mySerialPort(SerialIn, SerialOut);<br /><br />void setup()<br /><br />{<br /><br />pinMode(SerialOut, OUTPUT);<br /><br />pinMode(SerialIn, INPUT);<br /><br />mySerialPort.begin(19200);<br /><br />mySerialPort.print("vv");<br /><br />mySerialPort.print("xxxx");<br /><br />delay(wDelay);<br /><br />mySerialPort.print("----");<br /><br />delay(wDelay);<br /><br />mySerialPort.print("8888");<br /><br />delay(wDelay);<br /><br />mySerialPort.print("xxxx");<br /><br />delay(wDelay);<br /><br />Serial.begin(9600);<br /><br />}<br /><br />void loop()<br /><br />{<br /><br />val = analogRead(inPin);<br /><br />Serial.println(val);<br /><br />dispData(val);<br /><br />val = map(val, 1, 100, 1, 2048);<br /><br />tone(9,val,10);<br /><br />}<br /><br />void dispData(int i)<br /><br />{<br /><br />if ((i<-999)</nowiki> +, You can use the EMI probe to compare and contrast EMI radiations deriving from different electronic appliances.
Hold the probe next to a stereo system or a TV whilst these devices are in standby mode, and you ll probably get a similar reading to a laptop when this is turned on.
Once you ve found out which electronic appliances radiate the biggest amount of EMI when in standby mode, you can learn to plug these off to save energy. +
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You will need a Python IDE such as Thonny for this project. You can use any IDE, but for this project, we are using Thonny. To install and use Thonny:
*Go to https://thonny.org/
*Download
*Install and then open +, This is how your circuit should look like. You will need the ESP32 microcontroller, DHT22 temp/humidity module, breadboard and jumper wires.
* + pin on DHT22 to VCC on ESP
* out pin on DHT22 to GPIO pin 15 on ESP(can change depending on code)
* - pin on DHT22 to GND on ESP +, Go to https://ifttt.com/join
Sign up and create an account using the appropriate options
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