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== '''The Unknown Advantages of Utilizing Exam Dumps for the Dell EMC DES-1D12 Exam''' ==
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== '''The Unknown Advantages of Utilizing Exam Dumps for the Dell EMC DES-6322 Exam''' ==
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The Beetle ESP32-C3 is based on the ESP32-C3, a RISC-V 32-bit single-core processor. Despite its tiny size (only 25×20.5 mm), it packs a punch with up to 13 IO ports broken out, making it ideal for various projects without worrying about running out of IO options. +, '''Ultra-Small Size''': The Beetle ESP32-C3 measures just '''25×20.5 mm''' (0.98×0.81 inch), making it perfect for space-constrained projects.
'''Built-in Lithium Battery Charging Management''':
* Safely charge and discharge lithium-ion batteries directly on the board.
* No need for additional modules, to ensure application size and safety.
'''Easy Screen Connectivity''':
* The matching bottom plate simplifies project assembly and screen usage.
'''Dual-Mode Communication''':
* Supports '''Wi-Fi''' and '''Bluetooth 5 (LE)'''.
* Reduces networking complexity.
* Compatible with both '''Bluetooth Mesh''' and '''Espressif WiFi Mesh''' for stable communication and extended coverage. +, You must check out [https://www.pcbway.com/ PCBWAY] for ordering PCBs online for cheap!
You get 10 good-quality PCBs manufactured and shipped to your doorstep for cheap. You will also get a discount on shipping on your first order. Upload your Gerber files onto [https://www.pcbway.com/ PCBWAY] to get them manufactured with good quality and quick turnaround time. PCBWay now could provide a complete product solution, from design to enclosure production. Check out their online Gerber viewer function. With reward points, you can get free stuff from their gift shop. Also, check out this useful blog on PCBWay Plugin for KiCad from [https://www.pcbway.com/blog/News/PCBWay_Plug_In_for_KiCad_3ea6219c.html here.] Using this plugin, you can directly order PCBs in just one click after completing your design in KiCad. +, …
You must check out [https://www.pcbway.com/ PCBWAY] for ordering PCBs online for cheap!
You get 10 good-quality PCBs manufactured and shipped to your doorstep for cheap. You will also get a discount on shipping on your first order. Upload your Gerber files onto [https://www.pcbway.com/ PCBWAY] toget them manufactured with good quality and quick turnaround time. PCBWay now could provide a complete product solution, from design to enclosure production. Check out their online Gerber viewer function. With reward points, you can get free stuff from their gift shop. +, To interface the DHT11 sensor, we’ll use the [https://github.com/adafruit/DHT-sensor-library DHT library from Adafruit.] To use this library you also need to install the [https://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit_Sensor Adafruit Unified Sensor library.] Follow the next steps to install those libraries.
Open your Arduino IDE and go to '''Sketch''' > '''Include Library''' > '''Manage Libraries'''. The Library Manager should open.
Search for “'''DHT'''” in the Search box and install the DHT library from Adafruit.
After installing the DHT library from Adafruit, type “'''Adafruit Unified Sensor'''” in the search box. Scroll all the way down to find the library and install it.
That's all let's test the DHT11. +, <nowiki>Connect the DHT11 data pin to esp32 pin 12, and just upload the code. Then wait for the serial monitor results.<div class="mw-highlight mw-content-ltr" dir="ltr"><pre>#include "DHT.h"<br />#define DHTPIN 12 // Digital pin connected to the DHT sensor<br />#define DHTTYPE DHT11 // DHT 11<br /><br />DHT dht(DHTPIN, DHTTYPE);<br /><br />void setup() {<br /> Serial.begin(9600);<br /> Serial.println(F("DHTxx test!"));<br /><br /> dht.begin();<br />}<br /><br />void loop() {<br /> // Wait a few seconds between measurements.<br /> delay(2000);<br /><br /> // Reading temperature or humidity takes about 250 milliseconds!<br /> // Sensor readings may also be up to 2 seconds 'old' (its a very slow sensor)<br /> float h = dht.readHumidity();<br /> // Read temperature as Celsius (the default)<br /> float t = dht.readTemperature();<br /> // Read temperature as Fahrenheit (isFahrenheit = true)<br /> float f = dht.readTemperature(true);<br /><br /> // Check if any reads failed and exit early (to try again).<br /> if (isnan(h) || isnan(t) || isnan(f)) {<br /> Serial.println(F("Failed to read from DHT sensor!"));<br /> return;<br /> }<br /><br /> // Compute heat index in Fahrenheit (the default)<br /> float hif = dht.computeHeatIndex(f, h);<br /> // Compute heat index in Celsius (isFahreheit = false)<br /> float hic = dht.computeHeatIndex(t, h, false);<br /><br /> Serial.print(F("Humidity: "));<br /> Serial.print(h);<br /> Serial.print(F("% Temperature: "));<br /> Serial.print(t);<br /> Serial.print(F("°C "));<br /> Serial.print(f);<br /> Serial.print(F("°F Heat index: "));<br /> Serial.print(hic);<br /> Serial.print(F("°C "));<br /> Serial.print(hif);<br /> Serial.println(F("°F"));<br />}</pre></div>Here is the serial monitor results.<br /><br />Okay, now everything is good.</nowiki> +, …
The next step in making your printed circuit board is making your connections between your LEDs. NeoPixels each have one data-input pad and one data-output pad. First create a long chain starting with the pixel closest to where you plan on placing your interface pins, going from one pixel's data-out pin to the next pixel's data-in pin.
After that you'll need to route power and ground. The easiest method I have come up with to do this is to use a combination of circles and semi-circles, four in total, alternating between power and ground as you move outward from the origin. This makes it easy to create a small "jumper" connection as apposed to manually wiring every since LED together, twice. The two pairs of circles/semi-circles can then be tied together whichever way is most convenient. Finally, a copper pour is added. This essentially just causes all extra space to be filled by "ground", which has multiple advantages including being easier to manufacture at home.
You will also want to install one roughly .1uf capacitor between power and ground between each set of two LEDs. The manufacture recommends one per LED however its likely one per two will do and they are time consuming to solder. These are not necessary for the functionality of the device, they simply improve the lifespan of the LEDs, so they can be ignored if needed. +, In order to complete this step you have two options:
'''Professional Manufacturing:'''
If you have never made a PCB and have no interest in gaining the skill to do so, this is what I would recommend. By getting your board professionally manufactured the difficulty of this project goes from high intermediate down to beginner. Your board will be guaranteed to be high quality, come with a solder mask, and may even come with a solder stencil.
'''Homemade PCB:'''
This is the option for those who really want to improve their skills and enhance their personal capabilities. It is also the option for those into high pace prototyping and who are really cutting the costs low. The ability to make my own PCBs has been one of my biggest advantages over the years and I strongly recommend it to anyone who is interested. I have developed my own method for making PCBs (see my channel for how to do that) which is a little outside the scope of this tutorial and requires equipment most beginners can't afford. Therefore, instead I recommend the[https://www.instructables.com/id/Etching-PCBs-with-PressnPeel/ toner transfer method] using a product named PressN'Peel. It is fairly easy and the only equipment you'll need that not necessarily everyone will have is a cheap laser printer. '''Check out [https://www.instructables.com/id/Etching-PCBs-with-PressnPeel/ clacktronics-uk's] tutorial for more details!'''
The basic process is as follows:
# Clean your copper cad board.
# Print your design onto the Peel n' Stick using a laser printer.
# Iron the design from the Peel n' stick onto your copper board
# Place the board in ferric chloride until etched.
# Clean off the toner
'''Solder Mask (Optional):'''
A solder mask is a covering that protects your board in all places but where solder needs to go. This makes it slightly easier to solder but more importantly dramatically improves the ascetics of the board. If you did not get your board manufactured you may want to add one, but its not strictly necessary. Personally I find this process incredibly easy and highly recommend it. Again, I'm only going to go over the basic process so you know what you're getting into. '''Check out [https://www.instructables.com/id/Dry-Film-Solder-Mask/ cpeniche]'s tutorial for more details'''!
The process is as follows:
# Print your boards pad design onto a piece of transparency.
# Peel and stick the solder mask film onto your etched board.
# Iron/laminate the film until it sticks well.
# Align the transparency with the board and tape down.
# Expose the film to a UV source (nail polish dryers work)
# Clean off the unexposed pads
# Expose till cured. , If you have access to a laser cutter consider manufacturing yourself a solder paste stencil. They allow you to avoid the tedious effort of slowly putting a dab of solder paste on each individual pin. Simply load the pad design into your laser cutter software and cut it out of a piece of printer transparency. I have also found that a laminator sheet works just as well. This works incredibly well and produces a layer almost exactly as thick as the professional versions. In my opinion they are actually far superior as they are flexible and transparent, making them far easier to use than the stainless steel versions.
I was not the one to come up with this method but I have yet to see anyone document it online, which i find surprising. +, …
The next step in making your printed circuit board is making your connections between your LEDs. NeoPixels each have one data-input pad and one data-output pad. First create a long chain starting with the pixel closest to where you plan on placing your interface pins, going from one pixel's data-out pin to the next pixel's data-in pin.
After that you'll need to route power and ground. The easiest method I have come up with to do this is to use a combination of circles and semi-circles, four in total, alternating between power and ground as you move outward from the origin. This makes it easy to create a small "jumper" connection as apposed to manually wiring every since LED together, twice. The two pairs of circles/semi-circles can then be tied together whichever way is most convenient. Finally, a copper pour is added. This essentially just causes all extra space to be filled by "ground", which has multiple advantages including being easier to manufacture at home.
You will also want to install one roughly .1uf capacitor between power and ground between each set of two LEDs. The manufacture recommends one per LED however its likely one per two will do and they are time consuming to solder. These are not necessary for the functionality of the device, they simply improve the lifespan of the LEDs, so they can be ignored if needed. +, In order to complete this step you have two options:
'''Professional Manufacturing:'''
If you have never made a PCB and have no interest in gaining the skill to do so, this is what I would recommend. By getting your board professionally manufactured the difficulty of this project goes from high intermediate down to beginner. Your board will be guaranteed to be high quality, come with a solder mask, and may even come with a solder stencil.
'''Homemade PCB:'''
This is the option for those who really want to improve their skills and enhance their personal capabilities. It is also the option for those into high pace prototyping and who are really cutting the costs low. The ability to make my own PCBs has been one of my biggest advantages over the years and I strongly recommend it to anyone who is interested. I have developed my own method for making PCBs (see my channel for how to do that) which is a little outside the scope of this tutorial and requires equipment most beginners can't afford. Therefore, instead I recommend the[https://www.instructables.com/id/Etching-PCBs-with-PressnPeel/ toner transfer method] using a product named PressN'Peel. It is fairly easy and the only equipment you'll need that not necessarily everyone will have is a cheap laser printer. '''Check out [https://www.instructables.com/id/Etching-PCBs-with-PressnPeel/ clacktronics-uk's] tutorial for more details!'''
The basic process is as follows:
# Clean your copper cad board.
# Print your design onto the Peel n' Stick using a laser printer.
# Iron the design from the Peel n' stick onto your copper board
# Place the board in ferric chloride until etched.
# Clean off the toner
'''Solder Mask (Optional):'''
A solder mask is a covering that protects your board in all places but where solder needs to go. This makes it slightly easier to solder but more importantly dramatically improves the ascetics of the board. If you did not get your board manufactured you may want to add one, but its not strictly necessary. Personally I find this process incredibly easy and highly recommend it. Again, I'm only going to go over the basic process so you know what you're getting into. '''Check out [https://www.instructables.com/id/Dry-Film-Solder-Mask/ cpeniche]'s tutorial for more details'''!
The process is as follows:
# Print your boards pad design onto a piece of transparency.
# Peel and stick the solder mask film onto your etched board.
# Iron/laminate the film until it sticks well.
# Align the transparency with the board and tape down.
# Expose the film to a UV source (nail polish dryers work)
# Clean off the unexposed pads
# Expose till cured. , If you have access to a laser cutter consider manufacturing yourself a solder paste stencil. They allow you to avoid the tedious effort of slowly putting a dab of solder paste on each individual pin. Simply load the pad design into your laser cutter software and cut it out of a piece of printer transparency. I have also found that a laminator sheet works just as well. This works incredibly well and produces a layer almost exactly as thick as the professional versions. In my opinion they are actually far superior as they are flexible and transparent, making them far easier to use than the stainless steel versions.
I was not the one to come up with this method but I have yet to see anyone document it online, which i find surprising. +, …
The image below shows the wiring that is needed for one key of your makey-makey-like device. In order to obtain 6 functional keys, you will need to repeat this wiring 6 times overall, each time using a different analog pin on your arduino leonardo. +, In order for your makey-makey-like device to function like a classical makey makey, you will need to program the Arduino board, so that whenever a circuit is shut, the computer will react as if a certain key (ex. “a”, “backspace”, “space”) were pressed.
You will need to use Arduino IDE to code and upload the firmware onto your Arduino Leonardo board.
Download the software by visiting [https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software? Arduino IDE] > Scroll down until you see the “Download the Arduino IDE” section and choose the version based upon your operating system (e.g. If you have Windows 7, choose “Windows Installer” / if you have Windows 10, choose “Windows app”) > On the next page choose “Just download” and run the installation files.
[https://drive.google.com/open?id=1__jvuINFsJ_YzBHWltmv5_40187U9US6 Here] you can download the code to upload on your Arduino board.
You then need to run the .ino file with Arduino IDE and make sure you install the movingAvg library from “Sketch” menu > Include Library > Manage Libraries… > Search for “movingavg” > Install.
Afterwards, select the correct board from Tools > Board: Arduino Leonardo and then the correct Port from Tools > Port.
Finally, upload the code by using the right arrow (→) button at the top right corner of the window, by choosing Sketch > Upload or by pressing Ctrl+U on the keyboard.
Note that we’ve mapped the analog pins so that A0 maps to letter “d”, A1 to letter “s”, etc.
You can modify the mapping by changing the letters “d”, “s”, etc. +, Just like you do with a real makey makey, it is convenient to attach alligator clips to the jumper wires, and connect the alligator clips themselves to whichever conductive object you d like.
Whenever you will connect the alligator clip connected to GND on the board with one the alligator clips connected to one analog pin, thus shutting down a circuit, you will trigger a response on your computer (ex. letter “a”).
If you plug one end of the alligator clip connected to one analog pin onto a fruit (fruits are conductive) and you hold the alligator clip deriving from ground on your hand (ex. your left hand), whenever you will touch the fruit with your right hand, it will be as if you were connecting GND to the analog pin, thus shutting a circuit, and triggering a response from your computer (ex. letter “a”). +
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=232xA2e8RiQ]Video
opensourcelowtech.org +
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=232xA2e8RiQ]Video
opensourcelowtech.org +
Pour commencer, fixer ensemble au dos, les deux premiers blocs avec les platines:
2 petites vis par platines; 3 platines au dos et 2 au dessous.
Ensuite, fixer par l'intérieur, les deux blocs ensemble avec 1 grande vis. +, Renouveler les mêmes opérations que ci-dessus afin d'avoir une enfilade constituée des 3 blocs. +, Afin de fixer les pieds au meuble, il faut au préalable percer 1 trou a chaque coin du meuble. Mesurer a égale distance l'emplacement des pieds puis percer.
Placer et fixer les pieds avec les écrous. +, …
Pour commencer, fixer ensemble au dos, les deux premiers blocs avec les platines:
2 petites vis par platines; 3 platines au dos et 2 au dessous.
Ensuite, fixer par l'intérieur, les deux blocs ensemble avec 1 grande vis. +, Afin de fixer les pieds au meuble, il faut au préalable percer 1 trou a chaque coin du meuble. Mesurer a égale distance l'emplacement des pieds puis percer.
Placer et fixer les pieds avec les écrous. +, Renouveler les mêmes opérations que ci-dessus afin d'avoir une enfilade constituée des 3 blocs. +, …
<br/>
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La batterie sert à accumuler l'énergie produite pendant la journée par les panneaux et alimente la station météo .
Montage :
* Connecter la borne (+) de la batterie à la borne 1 du régulateur de tension,
* Relier la borne (+) du 1er condensateur la relier à l’entrée 1 du régulateur.
* Connecter la borne (-) du condensateur à la borne (-) de la batterie et, relier leur point commun à la borne 3 du régulateur.
* Relier la borne (+) du 2ème condensateur à la borne 2 du régulateur et connecter le (-) de ce condensateur à la borne 3 du régulateur. +, Il faut charger la batterie via l'énergie solaire. Pour cela, il faut mettre 2 panneaux en série pour avoir une tension de sortie égale à 12V et les relier directement à la batterie.
'''<u>Attention :</u>'''
Bien que cette méthode fonctionne, elle comporte beaucoup de risque car :
* Les panneaux peuvent aussi bien charger que décharger la batterie.
* La tension fournie par le panneau solaire pourrait être excessive, mettant ainsi en surcharge la batterie (ce qui pourrait à terme l’endommager).
** Pour pallier ce problème, il est possible d’alimenter le régulateur de charge.
* L’intensité de charge pourrait elle-aussi être excessive, qui aurait là encore pour effet de l’endommager.
Dans l’idéal, il faudrait utiliser un régulateur de charge pour charger et décharger la batterie.
Montage :
* Relier La borne (-) du premier panneau au (+) du deuxième panneau.
* Puis connecter la borne (+) de l’ensemble des panneaux ainsi obtenu au (+) de la batterie, puis le (-) des panneaux au (-) de batterie. +, Les panneaux solaires permettent de transformer l'énergie lumineuse du soleil en électricité.
Montage :
La borne (+) est du côté du silicium et la borne (-) du côté inverse de la cellule.
*Tout d’abord il faut relier (souder) la borne (+) de la première cellule à la borne (-) de la deuxième cellule et ainsi de suite. C'est-à-dire, le (+) de la deuxième cellule au (-) de la troisième etc… jusqu’à avoir soudé toutes les cellules.(Cf images ci-dessous).
*Ensuite, il faut relier la borne (+) de l’ensemble des cellules au câble. électrique rouge et la borne (-) de l’ensemble des cellules au câble électrique bleu. (Utiliser le multimètre pour repérer le (+) et le (-) en cas de difficulté).
*Mettre la diode anti retour sur les deux câbles rouge et bleu ou uniquement sur le rouge.
*Enfin, pour protéger les cellules il faut les mettre sous un plexiglass.
NB : Manipuler les cellules avec précaution car elles sont très fragiles. +
Une station météo est un appareil qui permet de connaître les caractéristiques de l’atmosphère de la pièce dans laquelle elle est placée (température, humidité, quantité de lumière etc…), ou éventuellement d’autres caractéristiques dépendamment de ce que l’on veut mesurer (l’humidité de l’aire, du sol dans notre cas).
<u>Montage :</u>
Monter le shield sur la carte arduino.
'''<u>NB :</u>''' L’utilisation du shield facilite la connexion des différents éléments sur la carte.
'''<u>CAPTEUR DE TEMPÉRATURE ET HUMIDITÉ:</u>'''
Comme son nom l’indique, il sert à mesurer l’humidité et la température d’un milieu.
Sur l’image ci-dessous, le DHT11 (capteur de température et d’humidité) est relié à l’entrée analogique de la carte Arduino donc sur les ports A0 du shield.
Pour les casbles, le jaune correspond à A0, le blanc correspond à A1, le rouge à Vcc et le noir à Gnd.
Etant donné que pour la connexion de ce capteur, le A1 n’est pas utilisé, il faut le déconnecter (fil blanc) ou à défaut le couper comme c’est le cas ici.
'''<u>ECRAN LCD :</u>'''
L'écran est utilisé pour afficher les valeurs mesurées par les capteurs.
Pour l’écran LCD le branchement se fait sur les I2C du shield.
'''<u>CAPTEUR DE L'HUMIDITÉ DU SOL :</u>'''
Le capteur de l’humidité du sol est relié au port A1 du shield.
'''<u>CAPTEUR DE LUMINOSITÉ :</u>'''
Pour le capteur de luminosité relier sur le port A2 du shield'''.'''
'''Image de l’ensembles des éléments.''' +, Dans cette partie, il faut alimenter la station météo via le régulateur (+) batterie.
Pour cela,
Connecter la borne (+) de l’alimentation de la station météo à la borne 2 du régulateur
Et relier la borne (-) de l’alimentation de la station météo à la borne 3 du régulateur.
Dans cette partie nous allons vous montrer les étapes à suivre pour mettre en place le code de la station météo.
Tout d’abord il faut faire des recherches pour trouver un code qui répond à votre besoins nous avons trouvé celui ci :
'''source''' :
'''<u>https://arduino.developpez.com/tutoriels/arduino-a-l-ecole/?page=projet-11-construire-une-station-meteo#LXIX-B</u>'''
'''Pour LCD ECRAN :'''
Les '''écrans LCD compatibles Grove''' utilisent le '''protocole I2C''' pour communiquer avec la carte Arduino.
L'écran doit donc être relié à une des '''broches I2C''' de la '''base Grove shield'''.
'''source'''
<u>https://icn.lycee-valin.fr/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=arduino:plaque_grove_du_lycee_valin:comment_utiliser_un_ecran_lcd_grove</u>
Ajouter la bibliothèque dans : '''Croquis''' –> '''Inclure une bibliothèque''' –> '''Gérer les bibliothèques''' → '''grove rgb_lcd.h'''
'''lcd.setCursor(0,0); // Il faut placer le curseur de l'écran LCD au début de la 1ère ligne'''
'''lcd.setCursor(9,0); // Il faut placer le curseur de l'écran LCD a x=9 de la 1ère ligne lcd.setCursor(0,1); // Il faut placer le curseur de l'écran LCD au début de la 2ème ligne lcd.setCursor(7,1); // Il faut placer le curseur de l'écran LCD à la 2ème ligne et à x=7'''
<br/> +, <nowiki>'''code source :'''<br /><br />#include <dht11.h><br /><br />dht11 DHT;<br /><br />#define DHT11_PIN A0<br /><br />#include <Wire.h> // inclure la bibliothèque permettant la communication par le protocole I2C<br /><br />#include "rgb_lcd.h" // inclure la bibliothèque pour l'écran LCD<br /><br />rgb_lcd lcd; // création d'un objet lcd<br /><br />int val; // Cette variable stocke la valeur reçue du capteur d'humidité du sol.<br /><br />void setup() {<br /><br /> Serial.begin(9600);<br /><br /> //pinMode(9,OUTPUT); Réglez la broche 9 comme broche de sortie, pour envoyer le signal au relay.<br /><br /> // pinMode(8,INPUT); Réglez la broche 8 comme broche d'entrée pour recevoir les données du capteur d'humidité.<br /><br /> lcd.begin(16, 2); // configurer le nombre de colonnes et de lignes de l'écran LCD :<br /><br /> pinMode(A2, INPUT);<br /><br /> analogWrite(A2, LOW); //Regler la sortie A2 pour envoyer les données du capteur de l'humidité du sol<br /><br /> pinMode(A3, INPUT);<br /><br /> analogWrite(A3, LOW); //Regler la sortie A3 pour envoyer les données du capteur de luminosité<br /><br />}<br /><br />void loop() {<br /><br /> int sol = analogRead(A2);<br /><br /> int light3 = analogRead(A4);<br /><br /> int chk = DHT.read(DHT11_PIN); // on lit les données du capteur DHT<br /><br /> lcd.setCursor(0, 0); // on place le curseur de l'écran LCD au début de la 1ère ligne<br /><br /> lcd.print("T: "); // on écrit le mot "Temp: " à l'emplacement du curseur<br /><br /> lcd.print(DHT.temperature); // on écrit la température lue par le capteur,<br /><br /> lcd.print((char)223); // on ajoute le symbole ° après la valeur de la température<br /><br /> lcd.print("C"); // on ajoute la lettre C pour degré Celsius<br /><br /> lcd.setCursor(9, 0); // on déplace le curseur de l'écran LCD au x=9 de la 1eligne<br /><br /> lcd.print("H: "); // on écrit le mot "Hum. rel: " à l'emplacement du curseur<br /><br /> lcd.print(DHT.humidity); // on écrit l'humidité relative lue par le capteur, avec 1 chiffre derrière la virgule<br /><br /> lcd.print("%"); // on ajoute le symbole "%" après la valeur de l'humidité<br /><br /> lcd.setCursor(0, 1); // on déplace le curseur de l'écran LCD au début de la 2eligne<br /><br /> lcd.print("S: "); // on écrit le mot "Sol. rel: " à l'emplacement du curseur<br /><br /> lcd.print(sol); // on écrit l'humidité relative lue par le capteur, avec 1 chiffre derrière la virgule<br /><br /> lcd.setCursor(7, 1); // on déplace le curseur de l'écran LCD au début de la 2eligne et a x=7<br /><br /> lcd.print("L: "); // on écrit la lettre "L. rel: " à l'emplacement du curseur<br /><br /> lcd.print(light3); // on écrit la quantité de lumiere relative lue par le capteur, avec 1 chiffre derrière la virgule<br /><br /> delay(1000); // on attend une seconde avant de procéder à la lecture suivante<br /><br />}</nowiki>
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