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Soudez les fils aux LED en fonction de la longueur qui séparera chaque barre et la première barre et l'alimentation. A chaque bande de LED soudée, passez les fils dans les trous et collez les LED au fond de la rainure, avant de souder la suivante.
Connectez l'ensemble à l'alimentation puis fixez les barres à l'endroit désiré. +, Usinez les rainures à la défonceuse avec une fraise que 15 mm, sur quelques millimètres de profondeur (en fonction du cône de lumière voulu) sur environ 22 cm de longueur.
répétez en fonction du nombre d'éclairages voulus.
Coupez à la scie des barres incluant les rainures centrées, d'environ 25 cm de longueur.
Percez des tous de 6 mm ( en fonction du diamètre du fil électrique) au bout des barres de manière qu'ils ressortent au bout des rainures. Ils serviront à faire passer le fil électrique pour alimenter les LED.
Faire les finitions : limez les arrêtes vives, poncez.
Nettoyez ensuite vos pièce en préparation du collage. +
On soude l'ensemble des composant sur la carte ''protoboard,'' sauf le microcontrôleur ATtiny85 qu'il va falloir programmer. Par contre, on peut souder son support ;)
Attention au sens des composants !
* microcontrôleur (en bleu): encoche vers l'extérieur (cf fêche)
* LED neopixel :en bleu Din (avec la résistance 1 komh) , rouge 5V et noir GND avec le condensateur 0.1µF (céramique) entre le 5V et GND
* les deux autres résitance forme un pont diviseur de tension. attention à leurs emplacements relatifs sous peine de tuer le microcontrôleur! +, On termine en fixant l'aimant sous la base avec la vis à tête fraisée.
Si nécessaire, on peut ajouter une rondelle sous l'aimant pour ajuster. L'aimant doit venir juste à raz de la base.
Et on répète la procédure pour chaque spot. +, <div class="icon-instructions caution-icon">
<div class="icon-instructions-icon"><i class="fa fa-exclamation-triangle"></i></div>
<div class="icon-instructions-text">Avant de commencer : s'assurer que la batterie est débranchée !!!</div>
</div>
# en partant de la boîte contenant l'électronique, couper le cable à la bonne longueur
# commencer à dérouler le cable vers le spot suivant
# dénuder les deux cables et passer ces cables dans le domino avant de serrer.
<div class="icon-instructions caution-icon">
<div class="icon-instructions-icon"><i class="fa fa-exclamation-triangle"></i></div>
<div class="icon-instructions-text">Vérifier bien qu'il n'y a pas d'inversion : le positif doit rester avec le positif (bande rouge) !</div>
</div>
<div class="icon-instructions caution-icon">
<div class="icon-instructions-icon"><i class="fa fa-exclamation-triangle"></i></div>
<div class="icon-instructions-text">Vérifier qu'il n'y a pas de brin de cuivre qui s'effiloche et fasse court-circuit ! si besoin, sertir les cables ensemble avec de les passer dans le domino.</div>
</div> +, …
On soude l'ensemble des composant sur la carte ''protoboard,'' sauf le microcontrôleur ATtiny85 qu'il va falloir programmer. Par contre, on peut souder son support ;)
Attention au sens des composants !
* microcontrôleur (en bleu): encoche vers l'extérieur (cf fêche)
* LED neopixel :en bleu Din (avec la résistance 1 komh) , rouge 5V et noir GND avec le condensateur 0.1µF (céramique) entre le 5V et GND
* les deux autres résitance forme un pont diviseur de tension. attention à leurs emplacements relatifs sous peine de tuer le microcontrôleur! +, Pour charger le programme dans le microcontrôleur, on suivra le tutoriel suivant : https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub/arjun/programming-attiny85-with-arduino-uno-afb829
Le fichier contenant le code est joint à ce tuto sur Wikifab. +, On termine en fixant l'aimant sous la base avec la vis à tête fraisée.
Si nécessaire, on peut ajouter une rondelle sous l'aimant pour ajuster. L'aimant doit venir juste à raz de la base.
Et on répète la procédure pour chaque spot. +, …
At the heart of the CalionPower offering are the basic parameters which include models '''CDD-48100''' and '''CDD-51.2100'''. These models boast nominal voltages of '''48V''' and '''51.2V''' respectively, with a nominal capacity of 100Ah. This translates to energy capacities of '''4800Wh''' and '''5120Wh'''. Each unit measures 500mm in length, 600mm in width, and 150mm in height, with weights of 50kg and 54kg respectively.
Operational efficiency is further enhanced by the '''discharge cut-off voltages''' of 40.5V and 43.2V, and '''charge cut-off voltages''' of 54.7V and 58.4V for the respective models. Communication is streamlined via '''RS485, RS232, and CAN ports''', facilitating easy integration into existing home networks. +
This is the 1st part of the water filter, with a screw locking water filter that attaches to the water funnel +, A interlock able stage of filtration that contains a sand filter that water passes through from the inlet to go across the sand layer into a porous filter +, Another part which water from the sand filter pours into the next level, charcoal filter +, …
One of the patches must be slightly bigger than the other 3. +, Apply the same procedure as the one described above, to create the patches for the 8ohm speaker as well as the one for the mini vibrating motor.
You may need to use some electric wire to extend the terminals of the electronic components and be able to solder them to the snap buttons
Neither the mini vibrating motor nor the speaker need a resistor. +, Use the biggest textile patch for the photoresistor.
First insert both legs of the photoresistor into the textile patch.
Then start the soldering. Solder a 1kohm resistor as well as a piece of electric wire to the negative leg of the photoresistor (the shorter of the two legs). +, …
One of the patches must be slightly bigger than the other 3. +, Shorten the longer leg of the Led and solder a 250 ohm resistor to its end.
Insert both legs of the Led into the textile patch. Do not leave any space between the textile patch and the base of the Led.
Sew the bottom part of two snap buttons to the textile patch. These will serve to connect the legs of the Led.
Solder both legs of the Led to the snap buttons. +, Apply the same procedure as the one described above, to create the patches for the 8ohm speaker as well as the one for the mini vibrating motor.
You may need to use some electric wire to extend the terminals of the electronic components and be able to solder them to the snap buttons
Neither the mini vibrating motor nor the speaker need a resistor. +, …
[https://www.dynamsoft.com/barcode-reader/downloads/ Download trial] and install +,
* Set up Development Environment
* Initialize the Project
* Include the Library
* Configure the Barcode Reader
* Rendering the UI
* Configure Camera Permissions
* Run the Project
+,
* Using the settings templates
* Using the DBRRuntimeSettings interface
* Customizing the scan region
+, …
J'ai écrit le texte dans Inkscape et je suis venue l'extruder dans TinkerCad.(Ici une citation de Bob Ross)
Avant téléchargement je l'ai mis en miroir (même si on peut le faire dans le Slicer aussi
L'impression n'a mis que 30mn (en 0.15) +, J'ai découpée mon patch à la découpe laser dans du cuir de 2mm (P:70/V:100), ça n'a pris que quelque seconde.
Si besoin nettoyer avec un chiffon doux et de la lotion +,
* Coller les matériaux sur des supports pour plus de rigidité avec du stoch double face
* Les aligner avant de les presser 5mn
* Décoller le patch et le presser sur le support encore 5mn grâce à la colle gel
+
J'ai écrit le texte dans Inkscape et je suis venue l'extruder dans TinkerCad.(Ici une citation de Bob Ross)
Avant téléchargement je l'ai mis en miroir (même si on peut le faire dans le Slicer aussi
L'impression n'a mis que 30mn (en 0.15) +, J'ai découpée mon patch à la découpe laser dans du cuir de 2mm (P:70/V:100), ça n'a pris que quelque seconde.
Si besoin nettoyer avec un chiffon doux et de la lotion +,
* Coller les matériaux sur des supports pour plus de rigidité avec du stoch double face
* Les aligner avant de les presser 5mn
* Décoller le patch et le presser sur le support encore 5mn grâce à la colle gel
+
What you need[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1HVWFDdyiLj6ORTMYcQF-VPyJCPGuPzeTj_FaKip4pS4/edit#heading=h.kft4zwyruhwh ?]
1 - A remote control device #Deedu;
2 - Environments Nodered and Blynq;
3 - A box whose purpose is to abstract the concept of the home environment.
How to create the environment
Here we have to describe how the miniature house is created, the environment to be simulated and the things you need to do it:
How to build the box[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1HVWFDdyiLj6ORTMYcQF-VPyJCPGuPzeTj_FaKip4pS4/edit#heading=h.rocl9tvc6md5 ?]
* We take a box of shoes that we no longer use;
* With the help of a pair of scissors with a rounded tip, let's cut one of the shorter sides of the box. From here we could observe inside the box itself what will be simulated;
* Let's cut the other minor side in the same way. From this we will insert the small fan;
* By inserting the device inside the box, we created our miniature room and we are ready for the experiment.
How to build the device?
For the construction of the device, consult the guide at the following link: [LINK PINTEREST].
<u>https://studio.youtube.com/video/Kr0x0o6c8DM/edit</u>
<u>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEqjpMs15jo</u>
To close everything in a wrapper, it may be useful to 3D print the suitable box whose source can be downloaded at the following link.
<u>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4062244</u>
=== How to put precisely the[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1HVWFDdyiLj6ORTMYcQF-VPyJCPGuPzeTj_FaKip4pS4/edit#heading=h.sci31hnwrn1 Blynk app]? ===
To set up the software system via Blynk, follow the guide:
<u>https://www.instructables.com/id/Digital-Environmental-Education-Domotics/</u>
How to put precisely the server Nodered on Raspberry?
To set up the Nodere software system, follow the guide:
[LINK PINTEREST]. +, A closed environment in which there is no one is an environment that in the vast majority of cases does not need to be illuminated or cooled. Likewise, it is often completely useless to keep many devices such as televisions, heaters or electronic consoles turned on.
From the Blynq app, we allow the user to familiarize themselves with turning on or off an electrical appliance.
The user must learn about what type of environment he is exercising control over. A bedroom, for example, does not need to be illuminated in the morning if you are at school or at work and therefore it is good to turn off the lights that may have been left on. In the same way it is easy to guess that a bathroom does not need to be heated when you are away from home.
The user will therefore have to hypothesize multiple application cases:
# Light on in a bedroom during the day or in the evening
# Heating of a bathroom day or night
# Fan in a kitchen day or night
For each scenario, it is necessary to ask the user to reflect on the need to keep a device controlled through the remote control #deedu on or off.
In this way, the user will make multiple attempts and metabolize the principles and advantages of a conscious use of electricity. In addition, remote control ensures that the user can remotely check whether home users are used correctly. +, At the end of the activity it is thought to have the children elaborate a page of diary, asking them to tell the experience they have carried out by highlighting the strengths and weaknesses of the device they have used and to provide any advice to the creators.
This will serve administrators, as well as creators of the device, on multiple fronts.
It will undoubtedly be useful to creators to work on weak points, and therefore to improve.
On the other hand, it will serve as a sort of database. In fact, this diary page will be kept by the creators in an archive, in order to be always accessible.
Furthermore, if the critical issues emerge, once they are improved, the creators could think of carrying out this activity again.
Therefore, the latter becomes essential for the formation of an archive and to be able to compare the results if the activity is proposed again later.
= Results =
Sometimes we act wrongly not out of negligence or indifference towards our planet, but because some issues and some important precautions are ignored.
We adults have a moral obligation to inform children, sensitize them, allow them to have all that useful information to be a good citizen and to love their world (and here we do not focus only on the environmental aspect!)
In fact, working with children allows you to promote initiatives that aim to change the wrong lifestyles that we may have due to bad, or completely absent, information.
By carrying out this activity that strongly recalls reality, children understand that this device can really be applied in any home environment, including their own home.
The purpose of the activity is to stimulate the user to make conscious use of energy resources in the home. The abstraction of the home environment by means of the box is aimed at arousing a connection in the user's mind with a real daily case. In this way, the user assimilates the advantages of using digital technology to make more efficient use of domestic resources. The perception of greater efficiency shows the user the sense of a reduction in waste.
Pour l'application du mortier, utilisez le couteau fin. Positionnez la lame à 45°, appuyez sur la base de la lame et bouchez les joints avec le mortier.
Lissez soigneusement afin d'obtenir une surface plane. +, Pour maintenir les bandes de joints et combler les interstices inférieurs à 2 mm, vous allez utiliser de l’enduit prêt à l’emploi.
Ouvrez votre seau et, à l’aide du mélangeur monté sur une perceuse, malaxez l’enduit jusqu’à obtention d’une pâte homogène et sans grumeaux. +, Prenez une bande de joints. Maintenez-la sur le mur afin de mesurer la largeur de celui-ci, pliez la bande pour repérer la longueur nécessaire et découpez-la. +, …
You can chose between different buffering systems, an battery, a supercapacitor or a flywheel.
We chose a supercapacitor. A supercapacitor is an electronic component able to hold a charge. It can be used in the same function as batteries with the following differences :
+ a capacitor is easier to recycle than most batteries (references will follow).
+ a capacitor can provide and absorb a higher peak power.
– the voltage varies with the charging state of the capacitor (it needs an additional converter to provide the voltage of the system)
– the energy by weight capacity is less interesting than with batteries.
– the cost by energy is higher.
– the lifetime is quasi infinite (1M cycles).
The energy storage of a supercapacitor :
energy = 1/2 * C * voltage difference^2
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/capacitors-energy-power-d_1389.html
ex = 1/2 * 500F * (16-12)^2 = 4000J = 1.11Wh = 1 cyclist for 1min20sec
http://www.maxwell.com/products/ultracapacitors/16v-large-modules/documents +, In words, we are harvesting the energy from stationary bikes. The energy is converted to regular AC power. We also monitor the energy flow wit the Open Energy Monitoring system. The bike stands we designed fit regular bikes. The bike wheel drives an electric motor with converts the mechanical energy into electric energy. The DC power is conducted through a diode and through a current sensor. Then the different cables are connected to the supercapacitor. This is the common point. From the supercapacitor we draw the power for the solar inverter that converts the fluctuating DC power to regular AC power. We monitor the power before the common point. An Arduino takes in the values of the current and voltage and transfers it to a Raspberry Pi that logs the data. An app on the smartphone allows to visualize the data. +, ''First remark : if you can avoid using a battery and work with the people pedal power in stead, this is considerably more interesting for the environment''
– car batteries a heavy compared with the energy they can store, they are designed for giving high current.
– deep cycle / cyclic / boat batteries can contain more energy because of the internal structure of the battery technology, allowing a deep discharge.
input : user power (ex sound system of 900W peak)
input : time of autonomy (ex one hour before charging)
input : voltage of the system (ex 12V)
energy need = user power * time of autonomy (ex = 900Wh for the sound system)
''checking the battery parameters''
– Gel and Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) types of VRLA can be mounted in any orientation, but need to be ventilated.
– the depth of discharge (DOD) of a battery determines the capacity and the number of cycles, 60% is a good value for AGM batteries (check DOD documentation).
– the current of discharging lowers the voltage output, the higher the discharge current, the lower the voltage and the lower the capacity.
battery voltage at the DOD > voltage of the system (ex 6 cel Li-ion doesn’t work, ex when discharging in 3h (0,3C), after 3h the battery voltage drops to 11V)
charge need (Ah) = energy need / voltage / depth of discharge (ex = 900Wh / 12V / 60% = 125Ah)
ex DAB12-135EV 12V 166Ah 136Ah 342 173 286 B M8 43,3 http://www.dynoeurope.com/assets/dab-ev/DAB12-135EV-TDS-EN.pdf +
You will need to use Arduino IDE to code and upload the firmware onto your ESP32 board.
Download the software by visiting [https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software? Arduino IDE] > Scroll down until you see the “Download the Arduino IDE” section and choose the version based upon your operating system (e.g. If you have Windows 7, choose “Windows Installer” / if you have Windows 10, choose “Windows app”) > On the next page choose “Just download” and run the installation files. +, Follow the [https://github.com/espressif/arduino-esp32/blob/master/README.md#installation-instructions instructions provided on GitHub] for your Operating System. For example, if you have Windows 7 or 10, choose “Instructions for Windows” / if you have a MacBook, choose “Instructions for Mac”
For the “Instructions for Windows” section, you can ignore the following step: +, The shorter leg of the photoresistor is connected to 3V on the ESP32. The other leg is connected to pin VP (or 36) and at the same time to a 1kohm resistor, which in turn is connected to GND on the ESP32.
Note: if it’s the first time you’re using a breadboard, check out [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCJKMFGEuuI this] video to understand how breadboards work. +, …
You will need to use Arduino IDE to code and upload the firmware onto your ESP32 board.
Download the software by visiting [https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software? Arduino IDE] > Scroll down until you see the “Download the Arduino IDE” section and choose the version based upon your operating system (e.g. If you have Windows 7, choose “Windows Installer” / if you have Windows 10, choose “Windows app”) > On the next page choose “Just download” and run the installation files. +, Follow the [https://github.com/espressif/arduino-esp32/blob/master/README.md#installation-instructions instructions provided on GitHub] for your Operating System. For example, if you have Windows 7 or 10, choose “Instructions for Windows” / if you have a MacBook, choose “Instructions for Mac”
For the “Instructions for Windows” section, you can ignore the following step: +, The shorter leg of the photoresistor is connected to 3V on the ESP32. The other leg is connected to pin VP (or 36) and at the same time to a 1kohm resistor, which in turn is connected to GND on the ESP32.
Note: if it’s the first time you’re using a breadboard, check out [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCJKMFGEuuI this] video to understand how breadboards work. +, …
- positionner votre sangle sur le bord du tissus,
le but étant de mettre la sangle en sandwich entre les 2 pièces.
- coudre sur une des 2 pièces pour la faire tenir en place +, A l'aide de votre patron, reproduisez le tracé sur votre toile, et découpez selon cette ligne. +, Imprimer le patron fourni en pièce jointe sur des feuilles A4, à l'échelle 1.
Ou tracez le vous même sur du papier a soie, grâce aux mesures. +, …
- positionner votre sangle sur le bord du tissus,
le but étant de mettre la sangle en sandwich entre les 2 pièces.
- coudre sur une des 2 pièces pour la faire tenir en place +, A l'aide de votre patron, reproduisez le tracé sur votre toile, et découpez selon cette ligne. +, Imprimer le patron fourni en pièce jointe sur des feuilles A4, à l'échelle 1.
Ou tracez le vous même sur du papier a soie, grâce aux mesures. +, …
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