https://wikifab.org/w/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=PyroWikifab - Contributions de l’utilisateur [fr]2026-04-11T10:20:45ZContributions de l’utilisateurMediaWiki 1.31.3https://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Dokit:DocOptions&diff=119709Dokit:DocOptions2021-06-13T19:02:01Z<p>Pyro : </p>
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<div>{{DokitDocOptions<br />
|DokitPageEnable=yes<br />
|DokitTutoEnable=yes<br />
|DokitManualEnable=yes<br />
}}</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Dokit:DocOptions&diff=119708Dokit:DocOptions2021-06-13T19:01:19Z<p>Pyro : </p>
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<div>{{DokitDocOptions<br />
|DokitItemEnable=yes<br />
|DokitPageEnable=yes<br />
|DokitTutoEnable=yes<br />
|DokitManualEnable=yes<br />
}}</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=CommentStreams:Ac0b8efdbe1667d9c7276dcd7af0b31e&diff=58858CommentStreams:Ac0b8efdbe1667d9c7276dcd7af0b31e2019-01-08T15:11:13Z<p>Pyro : </p>
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<div>Jolie ta lampe Clément !{{DISPLAYTITLE:<br />
Super !<br />
}}</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Test056&diff=58848Test0562019-01-08T14:50:04Z<p>Pyro : </p>
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<div>{{ {{tntn|Tuto Details}}<br />
|Main_Picture=Test056_LB_Step_44.jpg<br />
|Licences=Attribution (CC BY)<br />
|Description=un test<br />
|Area=Clothing and Accessories<br />
|Type=Technique<br />
|Difficulty=Very easy<br />
|Duration=2<br />
|Duration-type=hour(s)<br />
|Cost=3<br />
|Currency=EUR (€)<br />
|Tags=test<br />
|SourceLanguage=none<br />
|Language=fr<br />
|IsTranslation=0<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Introduction}}<br />
|Introduction=une intro<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Materials}}<br />
|Material=<br />
|Tools=<br />
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{{ {{tntn|Separator}}}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
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{{ {{tntn|Notes}}<br />
|Notes=<br />
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{{ {{tntn|Tuto Status}}<br />
|Complete=Draft<br />
}}</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Test056&diff=58847Test0562019-01-08T14:49:26Z<p>Pyro : </p>
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<div>{{ {{tntn|Tuto Details}}<br />
|Main_Picture=Test056_LB_Step_44.jpg<br />
|Licences=Attribution (CC BY)<br />
|Description=un test<br />
|Area=Clothing and Accessories<br />
|Type=Technique<br />
|Difficulty=Very easy<br />
|Duration=2<br />
|Duration-type=hour(s)<br />
|Cost=3<br />
|Currency=EUR (€)<br />
|Tags=test<br />
|SourceLanguage=none<br />
|Language=fr<br />
|IsTranslation=0<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Introduction}}<br />
|Introduction=<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Materials}}<br />
|Material=<br />
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{{ {{tntn|Separator}}}}<br />
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{{ {{tntn|Tuto Status}}<br />
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<div>Test056_LB_Step_44</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Showerloop_-_Guide_5:_UV_Assembly&diff=58839Showerloop - Guide 5: UV Assembly2019-01-08T14:34:31Z<p>Pyro : </p>
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<div>{{ {{tntn|Tuto Details}}<br />
|Main_Picture=Showerloop_08_03.jpg<br />
|Licences=Attribution (CC BY)<br />
|Description=<translate><!--T:1--> This is the fifth guide of [[Showerloop:_Water_filtration_and_purification_system|Showerloop]], a real-time filtration, purification & recycling system for shower water.</translate><br />
|Area=Energy<br />
|Type=Creation<br />
|Difficulty=Easy<br />
|Duration=5<br />
|Duration-type=minute(s)<br />
|Cost=0<br />
|Currency=EUR (€)<br />
|SourceLanguage=none<br />
|Language=en<br />
|IsTranslation=0<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Introduction}}<br />
|Introduction=<translate><!--T:2--><br />
The UV lamp comes with it's own 'ice-cream' cone shaped hose connectors, but generally they are for 1" or larger hoses and it extends out too far to look cool so it's nicer to make a custom cap which reduces the form factor.<br />
<br />
<!--T:3--><br />
You should have laser cut the cap from the previous step. It can be seen in the picture on the right, next to the lock nut and brass union.<br />
<br />
<!--T:4--><br />
{{Warning|The cap should actually be made from something that's UVC resistant as Acrylic will allow for the transmission of harmful UV rays. PTFE is one option and the same material that the teflon tape is made from as is PVC (but you shouldn't vaporize it/laser cut it because it's harmful to your health to breathe and so don't let it into the environment either). A very simple solution would just be to coat it in several layers of white paint containing titanium dioxide which is basically where the pigment comes from. Do this for both the inner and out layer to ensure good protection. Machining this component into rustproof steel like alumnium or die casting may be the best solution in the long run. Remember the UVC is on a non visible spectrum so be practical whenever dealing with UV light.}}<br />
<br />
<!--T:5--><br />
More information and links on the bottom of the page.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Materials}}<br />
|Material=<translate></translate><br />
|Tools=<translate></translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Separator}}}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=<translate></translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:6--> Place the lock nut inside the UV cap. Use teflon tape or hemp fibre with some mineral oil and place it inside the UV cap.</translate><br />
|Step_Picture_00=Showerloop_08_06.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Showerloop_08_07.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Showerloop_08_08.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Showerloop_08_09.jpg<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=<translate></translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:7--> Place the brass union inside while holding in the lock nut. Use a spanner and possibly clamp to fasten the union to the locknut.</translate><br />
|Step_Picture_00=Showerloop_08_10.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Showerloop_08_11.jpg<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=<translate></translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:8--> Place the UV cap inside the threaded hose connector lid and add the gasket to the inner side that comes into contact with the UV lamp.</translate><br />
|Step_Picture_00=Showerloop_08_04.jpg<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=<translate></translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:9--> Tighten and you're good to go. Add a desired hose connector to the threaded union to connect the UV to the shower head.</translate><br />
|Step_Picture_00=Showerloop_08_02.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Showerloop_08_03.jpg<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:10--> Start using it</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:11--><br />
So this is the part where I run out of photos. You still need to attach the drain and the pump together. This part will vary depending on the drain. There are three ways to do this: 1) take over the drain pipe with some connectors and attach something similar to the UV cap to connect a large PVC pipe to a thinner hose.<br />
<br />
<!--T:12--><br />
Attach the drain hose to the pump with female hose connectors. Some pumps come with different types of connectors - with threads or without and sometimes you don't always get what you ordered so you have to spend some time in the plumbing section of the hardware store for this. Ring clamps are your friends.<br />
<br />
<!--T:13--><br />
Now this part is super essential and obvious component if you want to build Showerloop. It needs to have a 3-way valve by the drain which allows you to either pump the water through the filters or let the water go down the drain - or water storage tank/toilet/etc. So if you can fit it in you can add the three - way valve. Alternatively I made a special basin with two drain plugs whereby one goes into the Showerloop filter and the other one goes into the drain drain. I'm also working on a 2-in-1 solution, which I hope to release in the next tutorial.<br />
<br />
<!--T:14--><br />
Reheating the water: Just use tap water for now, we will add a tutorial on how to use an electrical resistor to heat up the water.<br />
<br />
<!--T:15--><br />
Wire the electricals safely out of the way: This is super important and for sure something that you've already thought about. Basically the pump and UV that I use are all rated to be water proof / water resistant. It's a good idea to house everything in a water proof container. I'm still working on this part and the ones mentioned above and will release a new tutorial showing how I combined it with an existing shower in the coming weeks/months.<br />
<br />
<!--T:16--><br />
'''Test the shower:'''<br />
<br />
<!--T:17--><br />
This part is simple. Just turn it on and see if it leaks. This is common for me in the beginning, usually something is just a bit too loose and some monkey wrench action will fix it all up.<br />
<br />
<!--T:18--><br />
'''Try out the shower:'''<br />
<br />
<!--T:19--><br />
The first time using it I would maybe have someone on standby to make sure everything is ok. Have it running on it's own for an 10 minutes without 'recycling' to clear the activated carbon and sand of dust (which will happen when you compress it the first time). Then have the system to run on it's own for up to an hour in recycling mode just to watch it do it's thing. After this it should be good enough to try on it's own.<br />
<br />
<!--T:20--><br />
'''Coming next:'''<br />
<br />
<!--T:21--><br />
Solenoid valves, some drain hacks, using a different kind of pump, and adding buttons and and more control.<br />
<br />
<!--T:22--><br />
I'm hoping to make a living out of developing, building and helping others build Showerloop to fit to their own needs. If you want to support me you can join the R&D group we are setting up, donate to my cause or even buy our Showerloop KIT, more info at Showerloop.org. Also more relevant info is posted on our facebook page facebook.com/showerloop .<br />
<br />
<!--T:23--><br />
We are solving some of the bits and pieces mentioned above, but many of them have already been solved. This tutorial is a bit behind on the developments that I've made since POC21 which is why I'll be making a new update very soon. The filters, pump, UV and connections are all the same in our KIT, it simply incorporates some of the solutions mentioned above so I wouldn't discourage anyone from following this tutorial if they feel able to solve the last steps on their own. I'd be really happy to see what you come up with and so far I'm able to answer any questions that people have.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Notes}}<br />
|Notes=<translate><!--T:24--> For more information about UV Properties of Plastics: Transmission & Resistance, [http://www.coleparmer.com/TechLibraryArticle/834 visit this page].</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Status}}<br />
|Complete=Published<br />
}}<br />
{{Separator}}</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Test056&diff=58393Test0562018-12-17T19:01:57Z<p>Pyro : Page créée avec « {{ {{tntn|Tuto Details}} |SourceLanguage=none |Language=fr |IsTranslation=0 |Licences=Attribution (CC BY) |Description=un test |Area=Clothing and Accessories |Type=Techniq... »</p>
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<div>{{ {{tntn|Tuto Details}}<br />
|SourceLanguage=none<br />
|Language=fr<br />
|IsTranslation=0<br />
|Licences=Attribution (CC BY)<br />
|Description=un test<br />
|Area=Clothing and Accessories<br />
|Type=Technique<br />
|Difficulty=Very easy<br />
|Duration=2<br />
|Duration-type=hour(s)<br />
|Cost=3<br />
|Currency=EUR (€)<br />
|Tags=test<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Introduction}}<br />
|Introduction=<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Materials}}<br />
|Material=<br />
|Tools=<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Separator}}}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=<br />
|Step_Content=<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Notes}}<br />
|Notes=<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Status}}<br />
|Complete=Draft<br />
}}</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Montaje_de_P3steel_por_HTA3D_-_Tutorial_6_-_Electr%C3%B3nica_y_sus_conexiones&diff=58392Montaje de P3steel por HTA3D - Tutorial 6 - Electrónica y sus conexiones2018-12-17T18:58:22Z<p>Pyro : Annulation des modifications 57154 de HTA3D (discussion)</p>
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<div>{{ {{tntn|Tuto Details}}<br />
|SourceLanguage=none<br />
|Language=es<br />
|IsTranslation=0<br />
|Main_Picture=sdsfsdfsd_1.jpg<br />
|Licences=Attribution (CC BY)<br />
|Description=sdfsdf<br />
|Area=House<br />
|Type=Creation<br />
|Difficulty=Easy<br />
|Duration=40<br />
|Duration-type=day(s)<br />
|Cost=350<br />
|Currency=GBP (£)<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Introduction}}<br />
|Introduction=ddffsd sdfsd sdgdfsd<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Materials}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=sdsfsdfsd_1.jpg<br />
|Material=sdfsd<br />
|Tools=sdfsd<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Separator}}}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=asdas<br />
|Step_Content=asdasd<br />
|Step_Picture_00=sdsfsdfsd_1.jpg<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Notes}}<br />
|Notes=<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Status}}<br />
|Complete=Draft<br />
}}</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Drone_aile_%C3%A0_double_empennage&diff=50715Drone aile à double empennage2018-08-16T10:12:30Z<p>Pyro : </p>
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<div>{{ {{tntn|Tuto Details}}<br />
|Main_Picture=Drone_aile_à_double_empennage_OIO_Wilbur_mai.png<br />
|Licences=Attribution-ShareAlike (CC BY-SA)<br />
|Description=<translate><!--T:1--> Drone pour réaliser de la cartographie aérienne.</translate><br />
|Area=Art, Electronics, Machines and Tools, Sport and Outside, Play and Hobbies, Recycling and Upcycling, Robotics, Science and Biology, Transport and Mobility<br />
|Type=Creation<br />
|Difficulty=Hard<br />
|Duration=4<br />
|Duration-type=day(s)<br />
|Cost=180<br />
|Currency=EUR (€)<br />
|Tags=Drone, Aile, Cartographie, Drone, Photographie, diy, Impression 3D, Découpe Laser<br />
|SourceLanguage=none<br />
|Language=fr<br />
|IsTranslation=0<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Introduction}}<br />
|Introduction=<translate><!--T:2--><br />
"Ocean is Open" développe des solutions opensource et DIY pour les océans. Ce tutoriel décrit la fabrication d'un drone "lourd" pour pouvoir réaliser de la cartographie aérienne et d'un poids visé de 1500g. Cette version d'aile drone est qualifiée de "lourde" en raison de sa grande envergure et de son grand fuselage pour une grande capacité d'emport.<br />
<br />
<!--T:3--><br />
Dans le cadre de l'exploration "[https://www.we-explore.org/exploremag/nos-explorations/ocean-is-open/ Ocean is Open]", le projet Wilbur a pour objectif de développer des drones à faibles coûts et modulables pour le suivi temporel ortho-photographiques de milieux environnementaux littoraux (trait de côte, estuaires) et terrestres (bocages, zones humides, forêts, …). Les caractéristiques techniques des drones permettront de les construire localement (au sein de FabLabs, de lycées techniques, d’universités) et d’utiliser les données collectées (images et ortho-photographie) par les acteurs locaux impliqués dans le suivi de l’environnement (service de l’état, associations, collectivités...).<br />
<br />
<!--T:4--><br />
Une version "légère" de ce drone (inférieure à 800g) est décrite dans ce wiki : [[Drone aile à empennage double - version léger -]]</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Materials}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Drone_aile_à_double_empennage_WilburSpecter_Rendering2.JPG<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Drone_aile_à_double_empennage_OIO_Wilbur_mai_4_.jpg<br />
|Material=<translate><!--T:5--><br />
- 2 Feuilles de dépron 3mm (80x100mm) ,<br />
<br />
<!--T:6--><br />
- 2 Feuilles "carton-plume" 3 ou 5 mm (80 x 100mm idéal) ,<br />
<br />
<!--T:7--><br />
- 2 mètres linéaire tige diamètre 10 mm ( matériaux plutôt léger ) [ ici Aluminium creux en 2 section ] ,<br />
<br />
<!--T:8--><br />
- 1 kit électronique de vol ( [https://store.flitetest.com/power-pack-c-fixed-wing-large/ suggestion] + accu) ,<br />
<br />
<!--T:9--><br />
- Scotch d'emballage de couleur ou transparent ,<br />
<br />
<!--T:10--><br />
'''Facultatif'''<br />
<br />
<!--T:11--><br />
- Environ 500 grammes de PLA pour Impression 3D (peut faire sans),<br />
<br />
<!--T:12--><br />
- Scotch "armé",</translate><br />
|Tools=<translate><!--T:13--><br />
- 1 Pistolet à colle & ses recharges<br />
<br />
<!--T:14--><br />
- 1 Cutter<br />
<br />
<!--T:15--><br />
- Une règle de bonne taille <br />
<br />
<!--T:16--><br />
- Colle forte ( cyanoacrylate ) <br />
<br />
<!--T:17--><br />
- Un crayon feutre <br />
<br />
<!--T:18--><br />
'''Facultatif'''<br />
<br />
<!--T:19--><br />
- Imprimante 3D ( il faudra improviser sans mais ça le fait ! )<br />
<br />
<!--T:20--><br />
- Découpeuse laser (une imprimante [ oui pour papier ] & un cutter font l'affaire)</translate><br />
|Prerequisites={{ {{tntn|Prerequisites}}<br />
|Prerequisites=Imprimer un objet avec ULTIMAKER<br />
}}<br />
|Tuto_Attachments={{ {{tntn|Tuto Attachments}}<br />
|Attachment=Winglet.STL<br />
}}{{ {{tntn|Tuto Attachments}}<br />
|Attachment=WingletBas.STL<br />
}}{{ {{tntn|Tuto Attachments}}<br />
|Attachment=WIngletHaut.STL<br />
}}{{ {{tntn|Tuto Attachments}}<br />
|Attachment=SupportAiledEmpennageGauche.STL<br />
}}{{ {{tntn|Tuto Attachments}}<br />
|Attachment=SupportAiledEmpennage.STL<br />
}}{{ {{tntn|Tuto Attachments}}<br />
|Attachment=NevureNacaN10.STL<br />
}}{{ {{tntn|Tuto Attachments}}<br />
|Attachment=SupportSousAile.STL<br />
}}{{ {{tntn|Tuto Attachments}}<br />
|Attachment=Support moteur.STL<br />
}}{{ {{tntn|Tuto Attachments}}<br />
|Attachment=Support tige plate.STL<br />
}}<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Separator}}}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:21--> L'aile</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:22--> On part sur aile de 1 mètre 20 d'envergure, en dépron laminé au scotch et avec un profil déterminé (NACA N-10). Le profil est faisable dans la mesure où on a accès à l'impression 3D.</translate><br />
|Step_Picture_00=Drone_aile_à_double_empennage_AIle.png<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Drone_aile_à_double_empennage_AileWilburSpecter.png<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Drone_aile_à_double_empennage_AileNervures.png<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:23--> Les nervures en Impression 3D</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:24--><br />
C.F. page [[Marvin|tuto impression 3D]] si besoin<br />
# Le nombre de nervures à imprimer en 3D dépendra de l'espacement entre nervure et de l'envergure souhaité. Nous en avons imprimé 12 espacé de 10cm. <br />
# Il faut aussi imprimer les deux bloques qui viennent se placer entre deux nervures pour ensuite y venir fixer l'empennage. Prendre en compte dans l'espacement des nervures [voir 2ème image]</translate><br />
|Step_Picture_00=Drone_aile_à_double_empennage_Nervure.png<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Drone_aile_à_double_empennage_SupporAileEmpennage.png<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Drone_aile_à_double_empennage_AileNervures.png<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:25--> Ailette de bout d'aile en Impression 3D ( facultatif )</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:26--> Imprimé en 3D en ayant été séparé en deux par soucis de hauteur d'impression.</translate><br />
|Step_Picture_00=Drone_aile_à_double_empennage_WingletRendered.png<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Drone_aile_à_double_empennage_IMAG0695.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Drone_aile_à_double_empennage_IMAG0696.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Drone_aile_à_double_empennage_WingletHaut.png<br />
|Step_Picture_04=Drone_aile_à_double_empennage_WingletBas.png<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:27--> Construction de l'aile</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:28--><br />
'''Matériaux utilisés :'''<br />
<br />
<!--T:29--><br />
''- 2 Feuilles de dépron 3mm (80x100mm) ,''<br />
<br />
<!--T:30--><br />
''- 2 mètres linéaire tige diamètre 10 mm [ ici Aluminium creux en 2 section ] ,''<br />
<br />
<!--T:31--><br />
''- Scotch d'emballage de couleur ou transparent ,''<br />
<br />
<!--T:32--><br />
Les différentes pièces montrées dans les deux étapes précédentes <br />
<br />
<!--T:33--><br />
( ou pas si vous faites sans impression 3D )<br />
<br />
<!--T:34--><br />
<u>Assemblage</u><br />
<br />
<!--T:35--><br />
Les tiges creuses en aluminium servent de supports horizontaux des nervures et donnent de la rigidités à l'aile. L'aluminium est rigide et possède une bonne résistance à la flexion sur la longueur (1m20)<br />
<br />
<!--T:36--><br />
<u>Collage des nervures</u> sur la tige avec la colle forte.<br />
<br />
<!--T:37--><br />
{{Info|La colle se met après avoir espacé et assemblé les nervures (et les deux blocs !) sur la tige.}}<br />
<br />
<!--T:38--><br />
<u>Collage du dépron</u><br />
<br />
<!--T:39--><br />
{{Info|Le dépron aura été laminé (au scotch transparent) avant de le replier sur l'armature de l'aile}}<br />
<br />
<!--T:40--><br />
En repliant le dépron, ajuster la longueur de la plaque en la coupant au cutter. <br />
<br />
<!--T:41--><br />
Puis une fois tout aligné, coller au pistolet à colle chaude sur les nervures !</translate><br />
|Step_Picture_00=Drone_aile_à_double_empennage_IMAG0668.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Drone_aile_à_double_empennage_IMAG0669.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Drone_aile_à_double_empennage_IMAG0670.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Drone_aile_à_double_empennage_IMAG0667.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=Drone_aile_à_double_empennage_IMAG0677.jpg<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:42--> Le fuselage</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:43--><br />
* Le Fuselage est en "carton-plume" de 5 mm d'épaisseur (Dépron en "sandwich" entre deux feuilles).<br />
* A partir du modèle 3D ( ci-contre ) un patron a été créé en un fichier DXF. (découpe laser ou au cutter en imprimant le patron sur feuilles A4).<br />
<br />
<!--T:44--><br />
* A l'aide d'un pistolet à colle il faut ensuite tout replier et coller sur soi-même en découpant de l'épaisseur du matériaux sur le bord de replie ( ici 5 mm ) mais sans couper l'autre feuille de papier du côté extérieur du sandwich. Le fait de faire des rainures du côté intérieur de la courbure du fuselage, et pareil encore en coupant partiellement, permet de replier facilement le patron.<br />
* Ensuite coller au pisto-colle.<br />
* Il y la possibilité de rajouter un supporter</translate><br />
|Step_Picture_00=Drone_aile_à_double_empennage_Fuselage.png<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Drone_aile_à_double_empennage_FuselageDXF.png<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Drone_aile_à_double_empennage_IMAG0654.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Drone_aile_à_double_empennage_IMAG0665.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=Drone_aile_à_double_empennage_IMAG0663.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_05=Drone_aile_à_double_empennage_IMAG0712.jpg<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:45--> L'empennage</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:46--><br />
* Pour l'empennage, une simple feuille de dépron pliée en deux et les deux tiges reliant à l'aile fixé sur deux petit blocs imprimés en 3D. <br />
* On voulais que l'empennage soit démontable et nous avons donc modélisées et imprimées deux pièces où la tige vient se glisser<br />
* Le servomoteur actionne le flap arrière.<br />
* 2 tiges ont été ajoutée pour renforcer</translate><br />
|Step_Picture_00=Drone_aile_à_double_empennage_OIO_Wilbur_EmpennageV2.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Drone_aile_à_double_empennage_OIO_Wilbur_mai_3_.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Drone_aile_à_double_empennage_RenderingblocEmpennage.JPG<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:47--> Résultat final</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate></translate><br />
|Step_Picture_00=Drone_aile_à_double_empennage_OIO_Wilbur_mai_4_.jpg<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Notes}}<br />
|Notes=<translate></translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Status}}<br />
|Complete=Published<br />
}}</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Fichier:Serial-DHT22-433Mhz.ino&diff=46296Fichier:Serial-DHT22-433Mhz.ino2018-07-03T14:17:07Z<p>Pyro : </p>
<hr />
<div></div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Mod%C3%A8le:Idea&diff=30632Modèle:Idea2017-12-15T09:07:07Z<p>Pyro : </p>
<hr />
<div><p><br />
<div class="icon-instructions-image">[[File:Icon-idea.jpg]]</div><br />
<div class="icon-instructions-text">{{{1}}}</div><br />
</p></div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Mod%C3%A8le:Info&diff=30631Modèle:Info2017-12-15T09:06:45Z<p>Pyro : </p>
<hr />
<div><p><br />
<div class="icon-instructions-image">[[File:Info-icon.jpg]]</div><br />
<div class="icon-instructions-text">{{{1}}}</div><br />
</p></div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Mod%C3%A8le:Warning&diff=30164Modèle:Warning2017-12-13T11:25:00Z<p>Pyro : Page créée avec « <div class="icon-instructions-text"><i class="fa fa-exclamation-triangle" aria-hidden="true"></i> {{{1}}} </div> »</p>
<hr />
<div><div class="icon-instructions-text"><i class="fa fa-exclamation-triangle" aria-hidden="true"></i> {{{1}}} <br />
</div></div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Fichier:R%C3%A9paration_du_Blender_sp%C3%A9cial_soupe_LB_Step_36.jpg&diff=28961Fichier:Réparation du Blender spécial soupe LB Step 36.jpg2017-11-17T13:03:39Z<p>Pyro : Pyro a téléversé une nouvelle version de Fichier:Réparation du Blender spécial soupe LB Step 36.jpg</p>
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<div>Fichier téléversé avec MsUpload on [[Réparation_du_Blender_spécial_soupe]]</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Fichier:R%C3%A9paration_du_Blender_sp%C3%A9cial_soupe_LB_Step_36.jpg&diff=28960Fichier:Réparation du Blender spécial soupe LB Step 36.jpg2017-11-17T13:03:23Z<p>Pyro : Pyro a téléversé une nouvelle version de Fichier:Réparation du Blender spécial soupe LB Step 36.jpg</p>
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** http://blog.wikifab.org/challenges|Challenges<br />
* SEARCH<br />
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* LANGUAGES</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Fichier:Lampe_murale_triangle_Capture_du_2017-10-26_10-29-28.png&diff=28226Fichier:Lampe murale triangle Capture du 2017-10-26 10-29-28.png2017-10-26T08:56:32Z<p>Pyro : Fichier téléversé avec MsUpload on Lampe_murale_triangle</p>
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<div>Fichier téléversé avec MsUpload on [[Lampe_murale_triangle]]</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Japanese_Coffee_machine_module_for_cargo_bikes&diff=27260Japanese Coffee machine module for cargo bikes2017-09-22T15:40:50Z<p>Pyro : </p>
<hr />
<div>{{ {{tntn|Tuto Details}}<br />
|Type=Creation<br />
|Area=Energy, Food and Agriculture, Transport and Mobility<br />
|Tags=Bike, Cargo Bike, Coffee machine,<br />
|Description=<translate>The Japanese way of coffee making is a process of creation, without needing to use fossil fuels. That's why we decided to put this concept in a module for cargo bikes, in the idea to transport more than only resources.<br />
--by Canal d'accroche</translate><br />
|Difficulty=Medium<br />
|Cost=120<br />
|Currency=EUR (€)<br />
|Duration=5<br />
|Duration-type=hour(s)<br />
|Licences=Attribution-ShareAlike (CC BY-SA)<br />
|Main_Picture=Japanese_Coffee_machine_module_for_cargo_bikes_JapaneseCoffee.jpg<br />
|SourceLanguage=none<br />
|Language=en<br />
|IsTranslation=0<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Introduction}}<br />
|Introduction=<translate>Earlier we already build these kind of 15, 30 and 45cm modules with a lasercutting tool that can be found on our instructable or wikifab page, but because of the longer work we needed to put into it we decided to develope this time the modules with a CNC so we didn’t had all the detail work afterwords and had a more precies cut.<br />
<br />
These modules are used in the project Canal d’Accroche in partnership with Vélo M2 where we design new functionalities for cargobikes that are interchangeable like an open air cinema module, a mobile fablab, …<br />
<br />
In the three days we build 3 new modules that will be used as a public gardening module, a coffee module and a music module. We are discribing the Coffee module here.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Materials}}<br />
|Material=<translate>Pliewood 240x120 cv, 10mm tickness -> best place in Molenbeek :<br />
<br />
All plans of the module : mid 1, mid 2, Side 1, Side 2, Bottom, filling piece</translate><br />
|Tools=<translate>CNC machine with a 50 x 70 cm worktable<br />
Woodmill 10mm<br />
<br />
Skills<br />
Basic CNC handeling skills<br />
Precise work</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Separator}}}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=<translate>Wikimal</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate>All steps are described on the wiki of the iMal lab. Feel free to contribute through this website too.<br />
<br />
http://wiki.imal.org/project/japanese-coffee-machine-module-cargo-bikes<br />
<br />
(in a later phase it will be added here)</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Notes}}<br />
|Notes=<translate></translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Status}}<br />
|Complete=Yes<br />
}}</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Biped_dancing_robot&diff=27258Biped dancing robot2017-09-22T15:38:52Z<p>Pyro : </p>
<hr />
<div>{{ {{tntn|Tuto Details}}<br />
|Type=Creation<br />
|Area=Electronics, Play and Hobbies, Robotics<br />
|Tags=robot, Arduino,<br />
|Description=<translate><!--T:1--> Tito is a Biped dancing DIY robot, derivative from Zowi and Bob, basically has been adapted to an standard Arduino UNO board with easier connections and supports.</translate><br />
|Difficulty=Medium<br />
|Cost=45<br />
|Currency=USD ($)<br />
|Duration=10<br />
|Duration-type=hour(s)<br />
|Licences=Attribution-ShareAlike (CC BY-SA)<br />
|Main_Picture=Tito (11).jpg<br />
|SourceLanguage=none<br />
|Language=en<br />
|IsTranslation=0<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Introduction}}<br />
|Introduction=<translate><!--T:2--> Tito is a Biped dancing DIY robot, derivative from Zowi and Bob, basically has been adapted to an standard arduino UNO board. original project Zowi https://github.com/bqlabs/zowi</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Materials}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Tito (6).jpg<br />
|Material=<translate><!--T:3--><br />
Arduino UNO<br />
Nano breadboard or<br />
Buzzer<br />
Futaba servo S3003 x4<br />
HC-SR04 Ultrasound sensor<br />
Powerbank (optional)<br />
Nut M3 x20<br />
Screw M3 x20<br />
3d print Head<br />
3d print Base<br />
3d print Leg x2<br />
3d print Foot R<br />
3d print Foot L</translate><br />
|Tools=<translate><!--T:19--> 3d printer, allen key and screwdriver</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Separator}}}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=3dprinter.JPG<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:4--> 3D print parts</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:5--><br />
3D .stl files here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1378605<br />
Find a way to 3d print the parts, they are designed for no supports so is very easy to print with 20% infill and 0.2mm resolution.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Tito (3).jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Tito parts.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:6--> Pre assemble</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:7--> There is many was to build Tito, but one recommendation is before the connect the servos is to assemble the servo disk pieces to the legs, then put the servos in the body and the feet..</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=conection.JPG<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:8--> The Schematic</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:9--><br />
Follow the picture for the connections.<br />
HC-SR04 Ultrasound sensor (not connected in the schematic; trig for pin 8 and echo for pin 9).<br />
During the making process you may need to disconnect and connect constantly so just keep this schematic present for further fixes.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Tito align.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:10--> Test the position of the servos</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:11--> In the picture the cables are disconnected but the idea here is to upload a code to the Arduino board (https://github.com/agomezgar/tutoriales/tree/master/tutorialZowi3/prepararServosparaMontaje) that will put the all servos in 90 degrees and then fix the right angle for the crank discs in the body and the feet. Tito should be in a neutral position like the photo. then you can fix all the servos with the screw axis.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Tito (30).JPG<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:12--> Assemble Arduino board</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:13--> This design make it easy to fix any Arduino Uno compatible board (in my case a DFRduino UNO) in the head part, you can use up to 4 screws.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Tito (15).jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:14--> Final assembly</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:15--> If all connections are secured you can close the head part and fix it to the body using the lateral screws.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Tito program.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:16--> Programming</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:17--><br />
All libraries and Arduino source code are in this Github repository: https://github.com/bqlabs/zowi<br />
Just connect your USB cable to Arduino and upload the codes<br />
There are many programmed movements for the robot like walk different directions, raise, tilt and dance.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Notes}}<br />
|Notes=<translate><!--T:18--><br />
3D print files: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:137860<br />
Code: https://github.com/bqlabs/zowi</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Status}}}}<br />
{{Tuto_Status<br />
|Complete=Yes<br />
}}<br />
{{Separator}}</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Biped_dancing_robot&diff=27253Biped dancing robot2017-09-22T15:38:08Z<p>Pyro : </p>
<hr />
<div>{{ {{tntn|Tuto Details}}<br />
|Type=Creation<br />
|Area=Electronics, Play and Hobbies, Robotics<br />
|Tags=robot, Arduino,<br />
|Description=<translate><!--T:1--> Tito is a Biped dancing DIY robot, derivative from Zowi and Bob, basically has been adapted to an standard Arduino UNO board with easier connections and supports.</translate><br />
|Difficulty=Medium<br />
|Cost=45<br />
|Currency=USD ($)<br />
|Duration=10<br />
|Duration-type=hour(s)<br />
|Licences=Attribution-ShareAlike (CC BY-SA)<br />
|Main_Picture=Tito (11).jpg<br />
|SourceLanguage=none<br />
|Language=en<br />
|IsTranslation=0<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Introduction}}<br />
|Introduction=<translate><!--T:2--> Tito is a Biped dancing DIY robot, derivative from Zowi and Bob, basically has been adapted to an standard arduino UNO board. original project Zowi https://github.com/bqlabs/zowi</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Materials}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Tito (6).jpg<br />
|Material=<translate><!--T:3--><br />
Arduino UNO<br />
Nano breadboard or<br />
Buzzer<br />
Futaba servo S3003 x4<br />
HC-SR04 Ultrasound sensor<br />
Powerbank (optional)<br />
Nut M3 x20<br />
Screw M3 x20<br />
3d print Head<br />
3d print Base<br />
3d print Leg x2<br />
3d print Foot R<br />
3d print Foot L</translate><br />
|Tools=<translate>3d printer, allen key and screwdriver</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Separator}}}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=3dprinter.JPG<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:4--> 3D print parts</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:5--><br />
3D .stl files here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1378605<br />
Find a way to 3d print the parts, they are designed for no supports so is very easy to print with 20% infill and 0.2mm resolution.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Tito (3).jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Tito parts.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:6--> Pre assemble</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:7--> There is many was to build Tito, but one recommendation is before the connect the servos is to assemble the servo disk pieces to the legs, then put the servos in the body and the feet..</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=conection.JPG<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:8--> The Schematic</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:9--><br />
Follow the picture for the connections.<br />
HC-SR04 Ultrasound sensor (not connected in the schematic; trig for pin 8 and echo for pin 9).<br />
During the making process you may need to disconnect and connect constantly so just keep this schematic present for further fixes.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Tito align.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:10--> Test the position of the servos</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:11--> In the picture the cables are disconnected but the idea here is to upload a code to the Arduino board (https://github.com/agomezgar/tutoriales/tree/master/tutorialZowi3/prepararServosparaMontaje) that will put the all servos in 90 degrees and then fix the right angle for the crank discs in the body and the feet. Tito should be in a neutral position like the photo. then you can fix all the servos with the screw axis.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Tito (30).JPG<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:12--> Assemble Arduino board</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:13--> This design make it easy to fix any Arduino Uno compatible board (in my case a DFRduino UNO) in the head part, you can use up to 4 screws.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Tito (15).jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:14--> Final assembly</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:15--> If all connections are secured you can close the head part and fix it to the body using the lateral screws.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Tito program.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:16--> Programming</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:17--><br />
All libraries and Arduino source code are in this Github repository: https://github.com/bqlabs/zowi<br />
Just connect your USB cable to Arduino and upload the codes<br />
There are many programmed movements for the robot like walk different directions, raise, tilt and dance.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Notes}}<br />
|Notes=<translate><!--T:18--><br />
3D print files: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:137860<br />
Code: https://github.com/bqlabs/zowi<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Status}}}}<br />
{{Tuto_Status</translate><br />
|Complete=Yes<br />
}}<br />
{{Separator}}</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=SunZilla_-_Guide_1:_Preparing_the_aluminium_profiles&diff=27250SunZilla - Guide 1: Preparing the aluminium profiles2017-09-22T15:33:56Z<p>Pyro : </p>
<hr />
<div>{{ {{tntn|Tuto Details}}<br />
|Type=Creation<br />
|Area=Energy, Machines and Tools<br />
|Description=This is the second tutorial for building the Pop-up Solar Generator: SunZilla 3.0. Here we are going to build the inverter and battery box<br />
|Difficulty=Medium<br />
|Cost=128<br />
|Currency=EUR (€)<br />
|Duration=24<br />
|Duration-type=hour(s)<br />
|Licences=Attribution (CC BY)<br />
|Main_Picture=SunZilla_Step_07_04.jpg<br />
|SourceLanguage=none<br />
|Language=en<br />
|IsTranslation=0<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Introduction}}<br />
|Introduction=Preparing the aluminium profiles<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Materials}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=SunZilla_Step_01_01.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=SunZilla_Step_01_02.jpg<br />
|Material=* Black Euro-Boxes: 80€<br />
* 4 Solar modules (à 35 Watt): 200€<br />
* Inverter victron phoenix 24/350: 153€<br />
* Charge Controller: blue solar 100/15: 115€<br />
* 2 Batteries Agm 38 yuasa: 180€<br />
* Connectors, cables: 100€<br />
* Screws, Aluminium profiles, etc.: 200€<br />
|Tools=* Drills<br />
* Drilling machine (drill press)<br />
* Wrenches<br />
* Soldering station<br />
* Pliers<br />
* Aluminium file<br />
* Centre punch<br />
* Rubber and metal hammers<br />
* Ruler<br />
* Set square<br />
* Marker pen<br />
* Mitre saw (for aluminium)<br />
* Milling cutter<br />
* Silicon pistol<br />
* Countersinking cutter<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Separator}}}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=SunZilla_Step_02_01.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cut the aluminum profiles<br />
|Step_Content=Cut the aluminum profiles according to the technical drawings in the attached PDFs. Once you have them in hand, the first step is to file the ends of the profiles to deburr them, as shown in the picture.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=SunZilla_Step_04_01.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=SunZilla_Step_04_02.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=SunZilla_Step_04_03.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Mark hole's positions<br />
|Step_Content=Mark the position of the hole you will drill with the metal marker and the ruler. For the precise location and size of the various holes in the specific profiles, refer to the technical drawings in the below PDFs.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=SunZilla_Step_05_01.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=SunZilla_Step_05_02.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=SunZilla_Step_05_03.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=SunZilla_Step_05_04.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=SunZilla_Step_06_01.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_05=SunZilla_Step_06_02.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Drill holes with the drill press<br />
|Step_Content=Afterwards, the marked positions need to be punched with the centre punch and then the holes can be drilled with the drill press.<br />
<br />
After the holes are drilled they also need to be deburred by a countersinking cutter.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=SunZilla_Step_07_01.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=SunZilla_Step_07_02.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=SunZilla_Step_07_03.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=SunZilla_Step_07_04.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cut open on one side<br />
|Step_Content=For the 4 x 150mm long square profiles, you should use the .PDF technical drawing "Folding Mech.- slides.pdf".<br />
<br />
{{Pin|Text= the length is incorrectly indicated as 200mm in the technical drawing.}}<br />
<br />
These will be cut open on one side like on the first picture beside.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Notes}}<br />
|Notes=<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Status}}}}</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=OpenReflex:_3D_Printed_Camera&diff=27227OpenReflex: 3D Printed Camera2017-09-22T15:32:37Z<p>Pyro : </p>
<hr />
<div>{{ {{tntn|Tuto Details}}<br />
|Type=Creation<br />
|Area=Electronics, Play and Hobbies<br />
|Description=<translate><!--T:1--> The Open Reflex, a research about desktop 3D printing, open design and hacking. 100% Open-Source! Fell free to copy, understand, improve then share again!</translate><br />
|Difficulty=Easy<br />
|Cost=50<br />
|Currency=EUR (€)<br />
|Duration=16<br />
|Duration-type=hour(s)<br />
|Licences=Attribution-ShareAlike (CC BY-SA)<br />
|Main_Picture=Final Stel.jpg<br />
|SourceLanguage=none<br />
|Language=en<br />
|IsTranslation=0<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Introduction}}<br />
|Introduction=<translate><!--T:2--><br />
The OpenReflex is an Open-Source analog camera with a mirror Viewfinder and an awesome finger activated mechanic shutter (running ~ 1/60°s). What's more, it's compatible with any photographic lens with custom mount ring. All the pieces easily printable on an recent RepRap-like ABS 3D-printer without using support material ! Everything should print in less than 15h and anyone should be able to assemble it within 1h.<br />
All parts are separate ( Film receiver, Shutter and Viewfinder ) to simplify builds and modifications.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Materials}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Step 01 01.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_05=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Material=<translate><!--T:3--><br />
* ~250g black ABS (7€)<br />
* 3 M3 bearing (3€)<br />
* Some M3 screw and bolts<br />
* 1 Black PET 0.3mm sheet [plastic spacer]<br />
* 1 Clear translucent plastic sheet<br />
* 1 Little piece of mirror 1.5mm thick<br />
* 16 3mm cubic magnete (3€~)<br />
* 1 Finger Skate truck (5€~)<br />
* 1 Black Sugru sachet (3€~)</translate><br />
|Tools=<translate>* A recent RepRap-like 3D-Printer, prefer one that can print ABS [I used a MakerBot Replicator2X],<br />
* A CNC cutting tool (Vinyl cutter or Laser cutter) [I used a Silouhette Cameo plotter and an Epilog Lasercutter],<br />
* A glass-cutter,<br />
* A screwdriver,<br />
* An allen key,<br />
* Some glasspaper.</translate><br />
|ExternalAttachmentsLinks={{ {{tntn|ExternalAttachmentsLinks}}<br />
|ExternalAttachmentsLinks=http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:113865<br />
}}<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Separator}}}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=OpenReflex 02 01.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_05=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:4--> Print the back</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate>'''Print All parts:'''<br />
* Body : ~ 2h50<br />
* Cover : ~0h50<br />
* BackCover : ~1h30 ? (I forgot to check...)<br />
* All the rest : ~1h<br />
[ FilmGuide X2 - Rewinder - RewinderCover - Unwinder - UnwinderP2 - UnwinderButton ]<br />
<br />
Cut the BackShutter.<br />
<br />
'''My 3D-printer settings :'''<br />
I sliced my mesh using MakerWare (the only non-OpenSource software I used...) with these basic settings : Infill 15% with 3 shells with 0.27 thick layers.<br />
The printer I used made very clean parts so I didn't need lots of shells and a big infill to get properly lightproof pieces. So depending on your printer you may need to modify these settings. What's most important is that your pieces are lightproof, you don't need pristine HD print for these parts.<br />
<br />
Once you've printed everything, cleanup your pieces if necessary. Any hole will be filled later on with some sugru to improve lightproofing.<br />
<br />
{{Info|Text=Often the screw holes will be misprinted, I'ts not very important, the screw will find its way amidst the plastic mess.}}</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=OpenReflex 03 01.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=OpenReflex 03 02.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=OpenReflex 03 03.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=OpenReflex 03 04.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_05=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:5--> Assemble the back</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:6--><br />
1- Start by putting the two M3 hexagonal nuts in the holes provided for on the Body. It's a tight fit, so you'll need to push a bit. You can screw a screw from the other side for pull the nut.<br />
<br />
<!--T:7--><br />
2- Install the BackCover on its axis and insert the nut & bolt. The BackCover should fit nicely and rotate freely on its axis. Also set the BackShutter on his groove on the Body.<br />
<br />
<!--T:8--><br />
3- Put the UnwinderP2 and the UnwinderButton in place in the Cover. They should rotate, but not too much.<br />
<br />
<!--T:9--><br />
4- Set the Unwinder and the two FilmGuides in place in the Body. Put the Cover over all of this. You'll have to turn the UnwinderButton to align it with the Unwinder.<br />
Note : If the FilmGuide don't rotate on their axis it's not a problem.<br />
<br />
<!--T:10--><br />
5- Once everything is in place, put squared nuts in the columns and screw them in place through the Cover.<br />
<br />
<!--T:11--><br />
6- Algih the BackCover with the Cover and screw them together. Everything should fit in place, the UnwinderButton should make the Unwinder turn with some friction and the BackShutter should slide on its groove.<br />
<br />
<!--T:12--><br />
All done !<br />
For the Rewinder and the final light proofing we'll see this later. ;)</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=OpenReflex 04 01.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_05=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:13--> Print the parts of the Shutter</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:14--><br />
'''Print All parts:'''<br />
<br />
<!--T:15--><br />
* Body: ~ 5h30<br />
* Cover: ~1h50<br />
* Wheel: ~3h20 (Print this with an HD profile, layer as thin as possible !)<br />
* Actuator: ~ less than 1h, print with support (forgot to check...)<br />
* ActuatorCover: ~0h40<br />
<br />
<!--T:16--><br />
Cut the ''Shutter.svg''<br />
<br />
<!--T:17--><br />
Clean All the parts, especially the Body, some filament can be misprinted and block the path of the Shutter. Don't hesitate to use some glasspaper.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=OpenReflex 05 02.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=OpenReflex 05 03.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=OpenReflex 05 04.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_05=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate></translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:18--><br />
Prepare the parts, set in place the bearing under the ''Wheel''. It's a tight fit, set the bearing on the alignment then push ! If some misprinted plastic hinders the alignment, pull off the bearing, clean the ''Wheel'' hole and try again.<br />
<br />
<!--T:19--><br />
Put the hexagonal nut in place in the bottom of the ''Body''. It's a tight fit again so push a little.<br />
<br />
<!--T:20--><br />
Put the ''Wheel'' in the Body.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=OpenReflex 05 05.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=OpenReflex 05 06.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_05=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate></translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:21--> Screw it from the top then put a nut at the other side. The Wheel should turn fine without too much friction. If it's not in the axis pull the wheel out and check the nut under and the bearing. A little misalignment isn't important and should be corrected by the ''Shutter''.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=OpenReflex 05 07.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=OpenReflex 05 08.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=OpenReflex 05 09.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=OpenReflex 05 10.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_05=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:22--> Shutter and Actuator</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:23--><br />
Put the Shutter in place. The long part in direction of the Wheel. It's not very easy, you'll have to bend it and push a bit on the Wheel. When perforations are all in place on the Wheel everything should be fine.<br />
<br />
<!--T:24--><br />
Build your finger skate truck and fix it on the Actuator, use moderate force.<br />
<br />
<!--T:25--><br />
Put the Actuator in the Wheel, set the Cover in place and screw it in place just like for the Back.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=OpenReflex 05 11.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=OpenReflex 05 12.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=OpenReflex 05 13.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_05=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:26--> Put the ActuatorCover in place</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:27--> Turn the Wheel to stumble the Shutter, then put the ActuatorCover in place to keep the rotation of the Actuator. Fix the ActuatorCover with some Patafix [Blue-tac]. (we're using blue-tac in case the Wheel moves and we need to put it back into place)</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=OpenReflex 05 14.gif<br />
|Step_Picture_01=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_05=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:28--> Shutter is complete</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:29--><br />
'''All done!'''<br />
We'll see later how to use it.<br />
<br />
<!--T:30--><br />
In this little video, you can see how the shutter is working</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=OpenReflex 06 01.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_05=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:31--> Print the parts of the Viewfinder</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:32--><br />
'''You'll need:'''<br />
* 12 3mm magnet cube<br />
* 1 piece of mirror 1.5mm thick (file can be adapted for other thickness)<br />
* 1 clear translucent plastic or a thin sanded glass to cut<br />
* 5 M3 square nuts<br />
* 4 M3 nuts<br />
* 2 M3 bearings<br />
* 2 M3X10 Screw<br />
* 2 M3 Screw (X10 or X16)<br />
<br />
<!--T:33--><br />
'''Print All parts:'''<br />
* Body : ~ 1h25<br />
* Top<br />
* SuppMirror<br />
* MirrorActuator : ~ 45mn<br />
* NikonRing : ~ 40mn<br />
<br />
<!--T:34--><br />
Cut a mirror a the right size.<br />
Cut a piece of clear translucent plastic at the right size.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=OpenReflex_07_02.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=OpenReflex_07_03.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=OpenReflex_07_04.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=OpenReflex_07_05.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=OpenReflex_07_06.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_05=OpenReflex_07_07.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate></translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:35--><br />
1- Set in place all the magnets, beggin with the SuppMirror then do the Body and Top. For the SuppMirror and the top you'll have to push them a bit, i used a pliers for the Top. Always check the magnet polarity before you install them ! The MirrorSupp should be attracted by the Body with the mirror on the top. If you get the magnet polarity wrong you're in trouble, they're a pain to recover.<br />
<br />
<!--T:36--><br />
2- Prepare the bearings, block them with an M3X10 screw and a nut. Then plug them in the SuppMirror, screw head oriented towards the inside. [Note : The SuppMirror bridge may crack sometimes, don't worry, it's not a big deal.]<br />
<br />
<!--T:37--><br />
3- Put the square nuts in place inthe holes around the lens mount space. Push them in the bottom then block them with a bit of Patafix [Blue-tac] or Sugru.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=OpenReflex_07_08.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=OpenReflex_07_09.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=OpenReflex_07_10.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=OpenReflex_07_12.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=OpenReflex_07_12.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_05=OpenReflex_07_13.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate></translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:38--><br />
4- Glue the mirror on the SuppMirror.<br />
<br />
<!--T:39--><br />
5- Set the MirrorActuator in place through the Top, then put the MirrorSupp in. The MirrorActuator should bend a bit, bend it to place the MirrorSupp screw through the holes of the actuator, then put the nuts and screw them to keep them in place.<br />
<br />
<!--T:40--><br />
6- Everithing should be ok now, put the Top on the Body and screw them together like for the others parts. The Cover isn't perfect yet so you'll have to push a bit to set it in the right place. ;)<br />
<br />
<!--T:41--><br />
7- To finish put the viewing screen in place (the clear translucent plastic), it should fit in the hole of the Cover, fix it in place with a bit of glue, Sugru or Blue-tac.<br />
<br />
<!--T:42--><br />
8- You can now fix you favorite MountRing and screw it in front of the viewfinder to allow you to mount your lens.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=OpenReflex_07_01.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_05=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate></translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:43--><br />
All done !<br />
The mirror should go up and down when using the actuator. (not perfect yet but it's working)<br />
<br />
<!--T:44--><br />
Note : Sometimes when being a bit rough, the mirror will flip on its axis. You can put it back into place by brutalizing it a bit (not to hard) or just by removing the lens and turning it by hand.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=OpenReflex_08_01.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=OpenReflex_08_02.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=OpenReflex_08_03.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=OpenReflex_08_04.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=OpenReflex_08_05.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_05=OpenReflex_08_06.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:45--> Lightproof everything!</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate>Now we have all the parts built we have to make sure everything is lightproof like it should !<br />
<br />
So, it's the moment to get your Sugru out! (or black blue-tac)<br />
<br />
{{Info|Text=If you can't find any Black Patafix [or blue-tac], you can make your own by mixing some basic blue-tac in some Indian ink. [you'll have ink on your nails for 2 days at least....]}}<br />
<br />
Start by filling all the holes of the bolts, you can also do this on the bolts on the Viewfinder and cover the magnets.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=OpenReflex_08_07.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=OpenReflex_08_08.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=OpenReflex_08_09.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_05=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:46--> Lightproofing</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:47--><br />
And now for some real lightproofing!<br />
The more sensitive part is the back, especially the BackCover border and around the screws columns.<br />
<br />
<!--T:48--><br />
If you put Sugru between two parts you need to be careful not to block them. They should still be able to move.<br />
<br />
<!--T:49--><br />
You can follow the picture to see how I did, you can add a bit more sugru under the Back-Body, under the screw columns and under the junctions with the BackCover, that's were most of the parasite light came from on my tests films.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=OpenReflex_09_01.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_05=No-image-yet.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:50--> Assemble everything!</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:51--><br />
Once you got all the parts built separately it's time to assemble the camera! It's a very easy step, as everything snaps together!<br />
<br />
<!--T:52--><br />
All the parts should align at the bottom, and friction between part should be sufficient to keep them in place.<br />
<br />
<!--T:53--><br />
Sometime the covers block a bit, you can use strength or you you can just remove them and put them afterwards.<br />
<br />
<!--T:54--><br />
You can also add a bit of black Patafix [blue-tac] between the Back and the Shutter close to the exposed film area, their still are little lightproof issues here.<br />
<br />
<!--T:55--><br />
'''Your camera is finished! :)'''<br />
<br />
<!--T:56--><br />
''Now let's see how it's working!''</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=OpenReflex_10_01.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=OpenReflex_10_02.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=OpenReflex_10_03.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=OpenReflex_10_04.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=OpenReflex_10_05.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_05=OpenReflex_10_06.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:57--> Load film</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:58--><br />
1- Open the Back by unscrewing the BackCover.<br />
<br />
<!--T:59--><br />
2- Set the film in place, unwell the film coil and slide it under the two FilmGuides and on the grove.<br />
<br />
<!--T:60--><br />
3- When the coil is in place you can put the Rewinder on, it should be driven by the coil.<br />
<br />
<!--T:61--><br />
4- Make the film pass in front of the Unwinder (you may use a pen or something to pull it), then pass some of it through the Unwinder. Make sure two holes of the film at least are taken in the teeth of the Unwinder.<br />
<br />
<!--T:62--><br />
5- Turn a bit the UnwinderButton to check that the film is correctly driven.<br />
<br />
<!--T:63--><br />
6- You can now close the BackCover, put the RewinderCover in place and screw it in. The Rewinder and the BackCover should be fixed.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Final Stel.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=OpenReflex Final 04.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=OpenReflex Final 05.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=OpenReflex Final 01.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=OpenReflex Final 02.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_05=OpenReflex Final 03.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:64--> Take pictures!</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate>'''Let's take pictures!''' Your film is loaded, your lens is on, everything should be ok!<br />
<br />
If you want be accurate you'll need an exposure meter, set the settings with your film Iso and mode Exposure Time priority set to 1/60°s.<br />
If you haven't an exposure meter you can use a DSLR with the same settings. Look the aperture it advice and set the same on your lens.<br />
<br />
{{Info|Text=I advice to set the exposure time to 1/60° but it can be different on your shutter, depending of the wheels you use, your finger strength, etc.<br />
If your first film is over exposed you'll have to lower this value (1/40° or even less) and if it's under exposed you must increase this value ! [Don't make the same mistake I did for my second film.. I got mixed up and increased my exposing time although my first film was already over exposed]}}<br />
<br />
There is ONLY 8 easy steps to take a picture:<br />
<br />
1- Prepare your picture frame, with you lens at full aperture, look into the viewfinder to set the frame and the focus right.<br />
2- Measure light and change the aperture of you lens by the optimal one.<br />
3- Prime the shutter, pull on the ShutterActuator and set it in high position.<br />
4- Lifts up the mirror using the MirrorAcuator.<br />
5- Open the BackShutter by pulling it up.<br />
6- Hold your breath and push quickly the ShutterActuator trying to not shake the camera too much due to emotion.<br />
7- Close the BackShutter.<br />
8- Turn the RewinderButton a bit for the next picture.<br />
<br />
And start again for a new picture ! :)<br />
<br />
{{Pin|Text=For the first films I advice to use bracketing before you get your perfect settings. Take a picture with the exposure meter advice settings, and two more, one with an aperture up, and another with aperture down.}}<br />
<br />
This wikifab is over. Enjoy your new camera !</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Notes}}<br />
|Notes=<translate><!--T:65--><br />
* Thanks to the ESADSE [ Superior School of Art and Design of Saint-Etienne (France) ] that trust me and support me on this project and allow me to bring it where this work on my studies time ! And also for their equipment, and their financial help. :)<br />
* Thanks to my friends of the student associations [http://legarage-gpl.org/ Le_Garage] and also to the [http://www.esadse.fr/fr/la-recherche/171012-laboratoire-random-lab- RandomLab] which help me on this project.<br />
* Thanks to [http://www.iamas.ac.jp/exhibit13/ge/09.html Yuki Suzuki] who generously lent me one of his [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:37147 AP-Lens] from the Japan.<br />
* Thanks to [http://www.fablab-lyon.fr/ La Fabrique d'Objets Libre] (Lyon FabLab) for let me access to their tools.<br />
* 95% of the 3D are made in the Open-source software [https://www.blender.org/ Blender].<br />
* The rest have been made with [http://www.openscad.org/ OpenScad].<br />
* And 2D files have been made on [https://inkscape.org Inkscape] and OpenScad then cleaned in [http://librecad.org/cms/home.html LibreCad].<br />
* And I use MakerWare for slice my mesh for 3D printer. (I know... it's the only not open-source...)<br />
* And finish by YOU : Thanks for reading, hope you like it and this gonna be useful ! :)<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Status}}}}<br />
{{Tuto_Status</translate><br />
|Complete=Yes<br />
}}<br />
* http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:113865</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Turn_signal_biking_jacket&diff=27218Turn signal biking jacket2017-09-22T12:32:51Z<p>Pyro : Annulation des modifications 27215 de Pyro (discussion)</p>
<hr />
<div>{{ {{tntn|Tuto Details}}<br />
|SourceLanguage=none<br />
|Language=en<br />
|IsTranslation=0<br />
|Type=Creation<br />
|Area=Electronics, Sport and Outside<br />
|Description=<translate><!--T:1--> This tutorial will show you how to build a jacket with turn signals that will let people know where you're headed when you're on your bike. We'll use conductive thread and sewable electronics so your jacket will be soft and wearable and washable when you're done. Enjoy!</translate><br />
|Difficulty=Medium<br />
|Cost=50<br />
|Currency=USD ($)<br />
|Duration=5<br />
|Duration-type=hour(s)<br />
|Licences=Attribution-ShareAlike (CC BY-SA)<br />
|Main_Picture=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Biking-jacket.jpg<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Introduction}}<br />
|Introduction=<translate></translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Materials}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_vest_supplies.jpg<br />
|Material=<translate><!--T:2--><br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13342 LilyPad Arduino main board]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9873 FTDI connector]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11301 mini USB cable]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11259 LilyPad power supply]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10081 16 LilyPad LEDs]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/97 2 push button switches]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/retired/8549 a spool of 4-ply conductive thread]<br />
* a garment or a piece of fabric to work on<br />
<br />
<!--T:3--><br />
''disclosure: I designed the LilyPad, so I'll make some $ if you buy one.''</translate><br />
|Tools=<translate><!--T:4--><br />
* a digital multimeter with a beeping continuity tester<br />
* a needle or two<br />
* a fabric marker or piece of chalk<br />
* puffy fabric paint<br />
* a bottle of fabric glue<br />
* a ruler <br />
* a pair of scissors<br />
* double sided tape (optional)<br />
* a sewing machine (optional)</translate><br />
|Tuto_Attachments={{ {{tntn|Tuto Attachments}}<br />
|Attachment=Turn signal code.pdf<br />
}}{{ {{tntn|Tuto Attachments}}<br />
|Attachment=Turn signal biking jacket.pdf<br />
}}<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Separator}}}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01c.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:5--> Design</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:6--><br />
'''Plan the aesthetic and electrical layout of your piece'''<br />
<br />
<!--T:7--><br />
Decide where each component is going to go and figure out how you will sew them together with as few thread crossings as possible. Make a sketch of your design that you can refer to as you work. The photos below show the sketches for my jacket. Stitching for power (+) is shown in red, ground (-) in black, LEDs in green, and switch inputs in purple.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:8--> Important note about the power supply</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:9--><br />
As you design, plan to keep your power supply and LilyPad main board close to each other. If they are too far apart, you are likely to have problems with your LilyPad resetting or just not working at all.<br />
<br />
<!--T:10--><br />
Why? Conductive thread has non-trivial resistance. (The 4-ply silver-coated thread from SparkFun that comes with the LilyPad starter kit has about 14 ohms/foot.) Depending on what modules you're using in your construction, your LilyPad can draw up to 50 milliamps (mA) of current, or .05 Amps. Ohm's law says that the voltage drop across a conductive material--the amount of voltage that you lose as electricity moves through the material--is equal to the resistance of the conductive material times the amount of current that is flowing through it.<br />
<br />
<!--T:11--><br />
For example, if your LilyPad is a foot away from the power supply, the total resistance of the conductive material that attaches your LilyPad to your power supply is about 28 ohms. (14 Ohms in the conductive thread that leads from the negative terminal of the power supply to the negative petal on the LilyPad and 14 Ohms in the conductive thread that ties the positive terminals together). This means we can expect a drop of 1.4 Volts (28 Ohms * .05 Amps.) This means that while 5 Volts is coming out of the power supply, the LilyPad will only be getting 3.6 Volts (5 Volts - 1.4 Volts). Once the voltage at the LilyPad drops below about 3.3 Volts, it will reset. The resistance of the traces from + on the power supply to + on the LilyPad and - on the power supply to - on the LilyPad should be at most 10 Ohms. Plan the distance accordingly. <br />
<br />
<!--T:12--><br />
If all of this was confusing, don't worry! Just keep the LilyPad and power supply close to each other in your design.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01da.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01db.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:13--> Transfer the sketch to your garment</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:14--><br />
Use chalk or some other non-permanent marker to transfer your design to the garment. If you want, use a ruler to make sure everything is straight and symmetrical.<br />
<br />
<!--T:15--><br />
Use double sided tape to temporarily attach LilyPad pieces to your garment. This will give you a good sense of what your final piece will look like. It will also keep everything in place and, as long as the tape sticks, make your sewing easier.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02d.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02i.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:16--> Preparation before sewing</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:17--><br />
'''First, trim the leads off of the back of the power supply'''<br />
<br />
<!--T:18--><br />
Get out your LilyPad power supply piece and trim the metal parts that are sticking out the back of it. Small clippers like the ones shown in the photo work well, but you can also use scissors.<br />
<br />
<!--T:19--><br />
'''Stabilize your battery on the fabric'''<br />
<br />
<!--T:20--><br />
Generally, you want to do everything you can to keep the power supply from moving around on the fabric. I recommend gluing or sewing the battery down before starting on the rest of the project. You may also want to glue or sew something underneath the power supply to help prevent it from pulling on the fabric and bouncing around as you move.<br />
<br />
<!--T:21--><br />
If you are working on a thin or stretch piece of fabric--first of all, reconsider this choice! It's much easier to work on a heavy piece of non-stretchy fabric. If you are determined to forge ahead with a delicate fabric, choose the location for your power supply wisely. It's the heaviest electronic module, so put it somewhere where it will not distort the fabric too badly. definitely glue or sew something underneath the power supply.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02a.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:22--> Sew your power supply and LilyPad to your jacket</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:23--><br />
'''Sew the + petal of the power supply down to your garment'''<br />
<br />
<!--T:24--><br />
Cut a 3-4 foot length of conductive thread. Thread your needle, pulling enough of the thread through the needle that it will not fall out easily. Tie a knot at the end of the longer length of thread. Do not cut the thread too close to the knot or it will quickly unravel.<br />
<br />
<!--T:25--><br />
Coming from the back of the fabric to the front, poke the needle into the fabric right next to the + petal on the power supply and then, from the front of the fabric, pull it through. The knot at the end of the thread will keep the thread from pulling out of the fabric. Now make a stitch going into the hole in the hole in the + petal on the power supply. Do this several more times, looping around from the back of the fabric to the front, going through the + petal each time.<br />
<br />
<!--T:26--><br />
Pay special attention to this stitching. It is the most important connection that you'll sew in your project. You want to make sure you get excellent contact between the petals on the power supply and your conductive thread. Go through the hole several times (at least 5) with your stitching. Keep sewing until you can't get your needle through anymore. Do not cut your thread, just proceed to the next step.<br />
<br />
<!--T:27--><br />
'''Sew from the battery to the LilyPad.'''<br />
Once you've sewn the + petal of the battery down, make small neat stitches to the + petal of your LilyPad. I used a jacket with a fleece lining and stitched only through the inner fleece lining so that no stitches were visible on the outside of the jacket.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02f.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02g.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02h.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:28--> Sew the + petal of your LilyPad down</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:29--><br />
Sew the + petal of your LilyPad down, finishing the connection.<br />
<br />
<!--T:30--><br />
When you reach the LilyPad, sew the + petal down to the fabric with the conductive thread. Just like you were with the battery petal, you want to be extra careful to get a robust connection here. This stitching is making the electrical connection between your power supply and LilyPad. <br />
<br />
<!--T:31--><br />
When you are done with this attachment, sew away from the LilyPad about an inch along your stitching, tie a knot, and cut your thread about an inch away from the knot so that your knot won't come untied.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02j.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02k.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:32--> Put fabric glue on each of your knots</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:33--><br />
Put fabric glue on each of your knots to keep them from unraveling.<br />
<br />
<!--T:34--><br />
Once the glue dries, trim the thread close to each knot.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03d.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:35--> Test your stitching</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:36--><br />
'''Measure the resistance of your stitching.'''<br />
Get out your multimeter and put it on the resistance measuring setting. Measure from power supply + to LilyPad + and power supply - to LilyPad -. If the resistance of either of these traces is greater than 10 ohms, reinforce your stitching with more conductive thread.<br />
<br />
<!--T:37--><br />
Put a AAA battery into the power supply and flip the power supply switch to the on position. The red light on the power supply should turn on. If it doesn't and you're sure you flipped the switch, quickly remove the battery and check for a short between your + and - stitches. (Most likely there is a piece of thread that's touching both the - and + stitching somewhere.) You can test for a short between + and - by using the beeping continuity tester on your multimeter.<br />
<br />
<!--T:38--><br />
Also check the resistance between the + and - stitching. If the resistance is less than 10K Ohms or so, you've got a mini-short (probably a fine conductive thread hair that is touching both + and -) that you need to find and correct.<br />
<br />
<!--T:39--><br />
If the power supply does turn on, look at your LilyPad. It should blink quickly each time you press its switch. Once these connections are working properly, turn off the power supply and remove the battery. <br />
<br />
<!--T:40--><br />
'''Insulate your power and ground stitching'''<br />
So, your jacket is now full of uninsulated conductive stitches. This is fine when a body is inside of it. A body will prevent sewn traces from contacting each other. But when the jacket is off of a person and you bend or fold it, traces will touch each other and short out. To fix this problem, cover your traces with puffy fabric paint (or another insulator like a satin stitch in regular thread). But, you don't want to cover traces until you're sure that everything works! So, use good judgment in when to coat traces.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04d.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:41--> Sew on your turn signal LEDs</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:42--><br />
'''Sew in your left and right signals.'''<br />
<br />
<!--T:43--><br />
Using the same techniques you used to sew the power supply to the LilyPad, attach all of the + petals of the lights for the left turn signal together and to a petal on the LilyPad (petal 9 for me) and all of the + petals for the right signal together and to another LilyPad petal (11 for me). Attach all of the - petals of the lights together and then to either the - petal on the LilyPad or another LilyPad petal (petal 10 for me). Refer back to my design sketches if any of this is confusing.<br />
<br />
<!--T:44--><br />
{{Caution|Text=Remember to seal each of your knots with fabric glue to keep them from unraveling. Be careful to avoid shorts; don't let one sewn trace touch another. In this case, the - traces for the LEDs are all connected, but you want to make sure that the + traces for the left and right signals do not touch the - trace or each other.}}</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:45--> Test your turn signals</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:46--><br />
Load a program onto your LilyPad that blinks each turn signal to make sure all of your sewing is correct.<br />
<br />
<!--T:47--><br />
Here's my test program: [[File:Turn signal code.pdf]]<br />
<br />
<!--T:48--><br />
If your layout is the same as mine, you can just copy and paste this program into your Arduino window.<br />
<br />
<!--T:49--><br />
{{Info|Text=If your turn signals don't work, use your multimeter (and the instructions from the last step) to test for shorts or bad connections and make sure that your program matches your physical layout.}}<br />
<br />
<!--T:50--><br />
'''insulate your turn signal stitches'''<br />
Cover your traces with puffy fabric paint. Remember, you don't want to cover traces until you're sure that everything works! Use good judgment in when to coat traces.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05d.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05e.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_05=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05f.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:51--> Place your control switches</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:52--><br />
Find a spot for your switches where they'll be easy to press when you're riding your bike. I mounted mine on the underside of my wrists. I found a good spot by trying out different places. Check out the photos to see what I mean.<br />
<br />
<!--T:53--><br />
Once you've found a good position, push the legs of the switch through the fabric and bend them over on the inside of the fabric.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05g.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05h.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05i.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:54--> Sew in your switches</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:55--><br />
Sew your switches into the garment. Sew 1 leg to the switch input petal on the LilyPad and another leg, one that is diagonally across from the first , to ground or another LilyPad petal. I used petal 6 for the switch input on the left side and petal 12 for switch input on the right side. I used - for the - connection on the left side, but petal 4 for the - connection on the right side. Refer back to my design drawings if any of this is confusing.<br />
<br />
<!--T:56--><br />
When you're done sewing, go back and reinforce the switch connections with glue. You don't want your switches to fall out of their stitching.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_06a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_06b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_06c.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:57--> Sew a single LED onto the sleeve of each arm</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:58--><br />
These will give you essential feedback about which turn signal is on. They'll flash to tell you what the back of your jacket is doing, so make sure they're in a visible spot. Sew the + petals of each LED to a LilyPad petal and the - petals of each LED to the - side of the switch (the - trace you sewed in the last step). I used petal 5 for the LED + on the left side and petal 3 for the LED + on the right side. Again, refer back to my design drawings if any of this is confusing.<br />
<br />
<!--T:59--><br />
As always, remember to glue and trim knots and be careful not to create any shorts.<br />
<br />
<!--T:60--><br />
Once you sew both wrist LEDs, you're done with the sewing phase of the project! Now, on to programming...</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07e.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07f.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:61--> Program your jacket</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:62--><br />
'''Decide on the behavior you want'''<br />
I wanted the left switch to turn on the left turn signal for 15 seconds or so, and the right switch to do the same thing for the right signal. Pressing a switch when the corresponding turn signal is on should turn the signal off. Pressing both switches at the same time should put the jacket into nighttime flashing mode. The wrist mounted LEDs should provide feedback about the current state of the jacket.<br />
<br />
<!--T:63--><br />
Here's the code I wrote to get that behavior: [[File:Turn signal biking jacket.pdf]]<br />
<br />
<!--T:64--><br />
'''Program your jacket'''<br />
To program your garment, copy and paste my code into an Arduino window and load it onto the LilyPad. You may have to make some small adjustments first depending on where you attached lights and switches. Play with delays to customize your blinking patterns.</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:65--> Go biking</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate><!--T:66--><br />
Plug your battery back in and see if it works and...go biking!<br />
<br />
<!--T:67--><br />
'''Insulate the rest of your traces'''<br />
<br />
<!--T:68--><br />
Cover the rest of your traces with puffy fabric paint. Again, don't coat anything until you're sure it works.<br />
<br />
<!--T:69--><br />
'''About washing'''<br />
<br />
<!--T:70--><br />
Your creation is washable. Remove the battery and wash the garment by hand with a gentle detergent.<br />
<br />
<!--T:71--><br />
Note: silver coated threads will corrode over time and their resistance will gradually increase with washing and wear. To limit the effects of corrosion, insulate and protect your traces with puffy fabric paint or some other insulator. You can also revive exposed corroded traces with silver polish. Try this on a non-visible area first to see what it does to your fabric!</translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Notes}}<br />
|Notes=<translate></translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Status}}<br />
|Complete=Yes<br />
}}</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Turn_signal_biking_jacket&diff=27215Turn signal biking jacket2017-09-22T12:23:56Z<p>Pyro : </p>
<hr />
<div>{{ {{tntn|Tuto Details}}<br />
|Type=Creation<br />
|Area=Electronics, Sport and Outside<br />
|Tags=Bike, Turn Light,<br />
|Description=<translate><!--T:1--> This tutorial will show you how to build a jacket with turn signals that will let people know where you're headed when you're on your bike. We'll use conductive thread and sewable electronics so your jacket will be soft and wearable and washable when you're done. Enjoy!</translate><br />
|Difficulty=Medium<br />
|Cost=50<br />
|Currency=USD ($)<br />
|Duration=5<br />
|Duration-type=hour(s)<br />
|Licences=Attribution-ShareAlike (CC BY-SA)<br />
|Main_Picture=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Biking-jacket.jpg<br />
|SourceLanguage=none<br />
|Language=en<br />
|IsTranslation=0<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Introduction}}<br />
|Introduction=<translate></translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Materials}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_vest_supplies.jpg<br />
|Material=<translate></translate><br />
|Tools=<translate></translate><br />
|Tuto_Attachments={{ {{tntn|Tuto Attachments}}<br />
|Attachment=Turn signal code.pdf<br />
}}{{ {{tntn|Tuto Attachments}}<br />
|Attachment=Turn signal biking jacket.pdf<br />
}}<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Separator}}}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01c.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:5--> Design</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate></translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:8--> Important note about the power supply</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate></translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01da.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01db.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:13--> Transfer the sketch to your garment</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate></translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02d.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02i.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:16--> Preparation before sewing</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate></translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02a.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:22--> Sew your power supply and LilyPad to your jacket</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate></translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02f.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02g.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02h.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:28--> Sew the + petal of your LilyPad down</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate></translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02j.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02k.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:32--> Put fabric glue on each of your knots</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate></translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03d.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:35--> Test your stitching</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate></translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04d.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:41--> Sew on your turn signal LEDs</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate></translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:45--> Test your turn signals</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate></translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05d.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05e.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_05=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05f.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:51--> Place your control switches</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate></translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05g.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05h.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05i.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:54--> Sew in your switches</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate></translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_06a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_06b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_06c.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:57--> Sew a single LED onto the sleeve of each arm</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate></translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07e.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07f.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:61--> Program your jacket</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate></translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=<translate><!--T:65--> Go biking</translate><br />
|Step_Content=<translate></translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Notes}}<br />
|Notes=<translate></translate><br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Status}}<br />
|Complete=Yes<br />
}}</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Turn_signal_biking_jacket/fr&diff=26660Turn signal biking jacket/fr2017-09-19T16:19:46Z<p>Pyro : Page créée avec « Mettez de la colle à vêtement sur chacun de vos nœuds pour éviter qu'ils se défassent. »</p>
<hr />
<div>{{ {{tntn|Tuto Details}}<br />
|SourceLanguage=en<br />
|Language=fr<br />
|IsTranslation=1<br />
|Type=Creation<br />
|Area=Electronics, Sport and Outside<br />
|Description=Ce tutoriel va vous montrer comment fabriquer une veste avec des clignotants pour indiquer ou vous allez tourner. On va utiliser du fil conducteur et des circuits electornique à coudre. Ainsi votre veste restera souple et lavable.<br />
|Difficulty=Medium<br />
|Cost=50<br />
|Currency=USD ($)<br />
|Duration=5<br />
|Duration-type=hour(s)<br />
|Licences=Attribution-ShareAlike (CC BY-SA)<br />
|Main_Picture=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Biking-jacket.jpg<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Introduction}}<br />
|Introduction=<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Materials}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_vest_supplies.jpg<br />
|Material=* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13342 LilyPad Arduino main board]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9873 FTDI connector]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11301 mini USB cable]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11259 LilyPad power supply]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10081 16 LilyPad LEDs]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/97 2 push button switches]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/retired/8549 a spool of 4-ply conductive thread]<br />
* un vêtement ou un morceau de tissu<br />
<br />
''information: J'ai concu le LilyPad, donc je vais gagner quelque $ si vous en achetez un''<br />
|Tools=* un multimetre digital, avec test de continuité avec bipper<br />
* une ou deux aiguille<br />
* un marquer ou une craie<br />
* puffy fabric paint<br />
* de la colle pour vêtements<br />
* un metre <br />
* une paire de ciseaux<br />
* scotch double face (optionnel)<br />
* une machine à coudre (optionnel)<br />
|Tuto_Attachments={{ {{tntn|Tuto Attachments}}<br />
|Attachment=Turn signal code.pdf<br />
}}{{ {{tntn|Tuto Attachments}}<br />
|Attachment=Turn signal biking jacket.pdf<br />
}}<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Separator}}}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01c.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Conception<br />
|Step_Content='''Conception esthétique et électrique de votre veste'''<br />
<br />
Decidez ou chaque composent va se placer et trouver comment vous allez les coudre ensemble, avec le moins possible de fils qui se croissent. Faites un schéma pour pouvoir vous y référer pendant votre travail. la photo ci-contre montre le schéma pour ma veste. Le point pour l'alimentation (+) est en rouge, la masse (-) en noir, les LEDs en vert et les boutons en violet.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=Note importante à propos de l'alimentation<br />
|Step_Content=Dans votre conception, gardez l'alimentation et le LilyPad proche l'un de l'autre. S'ils sont trop loin, vous pouvez avoir des problèmes avec le LilyPad qui redémarre, ou qui ne marche pas du tout.<br />
<br />
Pourquoi ? LEs fils conducteurs ont une résistance non négligeable. (Le fil de SparkFun qui va avec le LilyPad a une resistance de 14 ohms pour 30 cm environ.) Selon les modules que vous utilisez, LilyPad peux consommer jusqu'à 50mA. Selon la loi de Ohm, la tension chute à travers un conducteur, et la valeur de tension perdu est égale à la résistance du matériau fois la valeur du courant qui le traverse.<br />
<br />
Par exemple, si votre LilyPad est à 30cm de votre alimentation, le résistance totale est d'environ 28 Ohms (14 Ohms du pôle négatif au LilyPad + 14 Ohms pour relier le pôle positif). Cela signifie que l'on va avoir une chute de 1,4 Volts (28 Ohms * 0,05A). Donc si on a une alimentation de 5V, le LilyPad va recevoir seulement 3.6 Volts. Si la tension descent sous 3.3 Volts environ, le LilyPad va redémarrer. Il faut donc une resistance de 10 Ohms maximum entre l'alimentation et le LilyPad. Concevez les distances en accord avec cela. <br />
<br />
Si tout cela vous prête à confusion, ne vous inquiétez pas, gardez simplement le LilyPad et l'alimentation proche l'un de l'autre.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01da.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01db.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Transférez le schéma sur le vêtement<br />
|Step_Content=Utiliser la craie ou un marker non-permanent pour reproduire votre schéma sur le vêtement. Si vous le souhaitez, utilisez un mètre pour être sur que tout est droit et symétrique.<br />
<br />
Utiliser du scotch double face pour attacher temporairement les composants au vêtement. Cela vous donnera un bon apercu de ce à quoi va ressembler votre pièce finale. Cela maintiendra aussi tout en place pendant que vous cousez, tant que le scotch colle.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02d.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02i.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Préparation avant de coudre<br />
|Step_Content='''D'abord, coupez les fils sortant derrière l'alimentation'''<br />
<br />
Prenez l'alimentation de votre LilyPad et couper les parties métalliques qui dépassent sur le dessous. Des petites pinces comme celle sur la photo sont idéales pour ça, mais vous pouvez aussi utiliser des ciseaux.<br />
<br />
'''Fixez la batterie sur le vêtement'''<br />
<br />
On veut généralement faire tout ce que l'on peut pour empêcher l’alimentation de bouger sur le vêtement. Je recommande de coller ou coudre la batterie avant de faire le reste. Vous pouvez coller ou coudre quelque chose sous la batterie pour l’empêcher de tirer sur le vêtement, et de rebondir lorsque l'on bouge.<br />
<br />
Si vous voulez travailler sur du tissu fin, considérez bien votre choix ! Il est beacoup plus facile de travailler sur des pièces épaises de tissu non-élastique. Si vous voulez tout de même utiliser un tissu léger, choisissez judicieusement l'emplacement de la batterie. C'est la composant le plus lourd, donc placer le là ou il ne va pas trop déformer le vêtement. Dans ce cas, cousez ou coller quelque chose sous la batterie.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02a.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez la batterie et le LilyPad à votre veste<br />
|Step_Content='''Cousez le pétale + de l'alimentation à votre vêtement'''<br />
<br />
Coupez un file conducteur de 1m environ. Passez le dans l'aiguille, suffisamment pour que vous ne le perdiez pas facilement. Faites un nœud au bout du fil. Ne coupez pas le fils trop proche du nœud pour ne pas qu'il se défasse.<br />
<br />
En partant du dessous de vêtement vers le dessus, piquer l'aiguille dans le vêtement à coté du pétale + de l'alimentation, puis, depuis le dessus, pousser l'aiguille à travers. Le nœud au bout du fils bloqueras le fils dans le vêtement. Maintenant, faites un point dans le trou du pétale +. Faite le plusieurs fois, passant du dessous au dessus du vêtement, en passant dans le pétale + à chaque fois.<br />
<br />
Faites attention à cette couture, c'est la connexion la plus importante de votre projet.Soyez sur de bien faire contact entre l'alimentation et le fils, passez à travers le trou plusieurs fois (5 fois au minimum). Continuez à coudre jusqu'à ce que vous ne puissiez plus passer l'aiguille. Ne coupez pas le fils, continuez à l'étape suivante.<br />
<br />
'''Coudre de la batterie au LilyPad.'''<br />
On fois que la couture du petale + de la batterie est faite, faire de petits points sur le pétale + du LilyPad. J'ai utilisé une veste avec une doublure en polaire, et cousu seulement à l’intérieur de la doublure pour que les coutures ne soient pas visibles de l’extérieur.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02f.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02g.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02h.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Coudre le pétale + de votre LilyPad<br />
|Step_Content=Coudre le pétale + du LilyPad pour finir la connection.<br />
<br />
Lorsque vous arrivez au LilyPad, cousez le pétale + à la veste avec le fil conducteur. Tout comme vous avez fait avec le pétale de la batterie, vous devez faire très attention à faire une couture robuste ici. Ce raccord fait la connexion électrique entre l'alimentation et le LilyPad. <br />
<br />
Quand vous avez fini ce raccord, cousez un retour de 2cm environ le long de votre couture, faites un nœud, et coupez le fil à 1cm du nœud pour éviter que le nœud se défasse.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02j.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02k.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Mettez de la colle à vêtement sur chacun de vos nœuds<br />
|Step_Content=Mettez de la colle à vêtement sur chacun de vos nœuds pour éviter qu'ils se défassent.<br />
<br />
Une fois la colle sèche, couper les fils qui dépassent de chaque nœud.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03d.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Testez votre couture<br />
|Step_Content='''Measure the resistance of your stitching.'''<br />
Get out your multimeter and put it on the resistance measuring setting. Measure from power supply + to LilyPad + and power supply - to LilyPad -. If the resistance of either of these traces is greater than 10 ohms, reinforce your stitching with more conductive thread.<br />
<br />
Put a AAA battery into the power supply and flip the power supply switch to the on position. The red light on the power supply should turn on. If it doesn't and you're sure you flipped the switch, quickly remove the battery and check for a short between your + and - stitches. (Most likely there is a piece of thread that's touching both the - and + stitching somewhere.) You can test for a short between + and - by using the beeping continuity tester on your multimeter.<br />
<br />
Also check the resistance between the + and - stitching. If the resistance is less than 10K Ohms or so, you've got a mini-short (probably a fine conductive thread hair that is touching both + and -) that you need to find and correct.<br />
<br />
If the power supply does turn on, look at your LilyPad. It should blink quickly each time you press its switch. Once these connections are working properly, turn off the power supply and remove the battery. <br />
<br />
'''Insulate your power and ground stitching'''<br />
So, your jacket is now full of uninsulated conductive stitches. This is fine when a body is inside of it. A body will prevent sewn traces from contacting each other. But when the jacket is off of a person and you bend or fold it, traces will touch each other and short out. To fix this problem, cover your traces with puffy fabric paint (or another insulator like a satin stitch in regular thread). But, you don't want to cover traces until you're sure that everything works! So, use good judgment in when to coat traces.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04d.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez les clignotants en LEDs<br />
|Step_Content='''Sew in your left and right signals.'''<br />
<br />
Using the same techniques you used to sew the power supply to the LilyPad, attach all of the + petals of the lights for the left turn signal together and to a petal on the LilyPad (petal 9 for me) and all of the + petals for the right signal together and to another LilyPad petal (11 for me). Attach all of the - petals of the lights together and then to either the - petal on the LilyPad or another LilyPad petal (petal 10 for me). Refer back to my design sketches if any of this is confusing.<br />
<br />
{{Caution|Text=Remember to seal each of your knots with fabric glue to keep them from unraveling. Be careful to avoid shorts; don't let one sewn trace touch another. In this case, the - traces for the LEDs are all connected, but you want to make sure that the + traces for the left and right signals do not touch the - trace or each other.}}<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=Testez les clignotants<br />
|Step_Content=Load a program onto your LilyPad that blinks each turn signal to make sure all of your sewing is correct.<br />
<br />
Here's my test program: [[File:Turn signal code.pdf]]<br />
<br />
If your layout is the same as mine, you can just copy and paste this program into your Arduino window.<br />
<br />
{{Info|Text=If your turn signals don't work, use your multimeter (and the instructions from the last step) to test for shorts or bad connections and make sure that your program matches your physical layout.}}<br />
<br />
'''insulate your turn signal stitches'''<br />
Cover your traces with puffy fabric paint. Remember, you don't want to cover traces until you're sure that everything works! Use good judgment in when to coat traces.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05d.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05e.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_05=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05f.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Placez vos boutons de contrôle<br />
|Step_Content=Find a spot for your switches where they'll be easy to press when you're riding your bike. I mounted mine on the underside of my wrists. I found a good spot by trying out different places. Check out the photos to see what I mean.<br />
<br />
Once you've found a good position, push the legs of the switch through the fabric and bend them over on the inside of the fabric.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05g.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05h.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05i.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez les boutons<br />
|Step_Content=Sew your switches into the garment. Sew 1 leg to the switch input petal on the LilyPad and another leg, one that is diagonally across from the first , to ground or another LilyPad petal. I used petal 6 for the switch input on the left side and petal 12 for switch input on the right side. I used - for the - connection on the left side, but petal 4 for the - connection on the right side. Refer back to my design drawings if any of this is confusing.<br />
<br />
When you're done sewing, go back and reinforce the switch connections with glue. You don't want your switches to fall out of their stitching.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_06a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_06b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_06c.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez un simple LED sur la manche de chaque bras<br />
|Step_Content=These will give you essential feedback about which turn signal is on. They'll flash to tell you what the back of your jacket is doing, so make sure they're in a visible spot. Sew the + petals of each LED to a LilyPad petal and the - petals of each LED to the - side of the switch (the - trace you sewed in the last step). I used petal 5 for the LED + on the left side and petal 3 for the LED + on the right side. Again, refer back to my design drawings if any of this is confusing.<br />
<br />
As always, remember to glue and trim knots and be careful not to create any shorts.<br />
<br />
Once you sew both wrist LEDs, you're done with the sewing phase of the project! Now, on to programming...<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07e.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07f.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Programmez votre veste<br />
|Step_Content='''Decide on the behavior you want'''<br />
I wanted the left switch to turn on the left turn signal for 15 seconds or so, and the right switch to do the same thing for the right signal. Pressing a switch when the corresponding turn signal is on should turn the signal off. Pressing both switches at the same time should put the jacket into nighttime flashing mode. The wrist mounted LEDs should provide feedback about the current state of the jacket.<br />
<br />
Here's the code I wrote to get that behavior: [[File:Turn signal biking jacket.pdf]]<br />
<br />
'''Program your jacket'''<br />
To program your garment, copy and paste my code into an Arduino window and load it onto the LilyPad. You may have to make some small adjustments first depending on where you attached lights and switches. Play with delays to customize your blinking patterns.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=Allez Pédaler<br />
|Step_Content=Plug your battery back in and see if it works and...go biking!<br />
<br />
'''Insulate the rest of your traces'''<br />
<br />
Cover the rest of your traces with puffy fabric paint. Again, don't coat anything until you're sure it works.<br />
<br />
'''About washing'''<br />
<br />
Your creation is washable. Remove the battery and wash the garment by hand with a gentle detergent.<br />
<br />
Note: silver coated threads will corrode over time and their resistance will gradually increase with washing and wear. To limit the effects of corrosion, insulate and protect your traces with puffy fabric paint or some other insulator. You can also revive exposed corroded traces with silver polish. Try this on a non-visible area first to see what it does to your fabric!<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Notes}}<br />
|Notes=<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Status}}<br />
|Complete=Yes<br />
}}</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Translations:Turn_signal_biking_jacket/33/fr&diff=26659Translations:Turn signal biking jacket/33/fr2017-09-19T16:19:44Z<p>Pyro : Page créée avec « Mettez de la colle à vêtement sur chacun de vos nœuds pour éviter qu'ils se défassent. »</p>
<hr />
<div>Mettez de la colle à vêtement sur chacun de vos nœuds pour éviter qu'ils se défassent.</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Turn_signal_biking_jacket/fr&diff=26658Turn signal biking jacket/fr2017-09-19T16:19:12Z<p>Pyro : </p>
<hr />
<div>{{ {{tntn|Tuto Details}}<br />
|SourceLanguage=en<br />
|Language=fr<br />
|IsTranslation=1<br />
|Type=Creation<br />
|Area=Electronics, Sport and Outside<br />
|Description=Ce tutoriel va vous montrer comment fabriquer une veste avec des clignotants pour indiquer ou vous allez tourner. On va utiliser du fil conducteur et des circuits electornique à coudre. Ainsi votre veste restera souple et lavable.<br />
|Difficulty=Medium<br />
|Cost=50<br />
|Currency=USD ($)<br />
|Duration=5<br />
|Duration-type=hour(s)<br />
|Licences=Attribution-ShareAlike (CC BY-SA)<br />
|Main_Picture=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Biking-jacket.jpg<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Introduction}}<br />
|Introduction=<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Materials}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_vest_supplies.jpg<br />
|Material=* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13342 LilyPad Arduino main board]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9873 FTDI connector]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11301 mini USB cable]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11259 LilyPad power supply]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10081 16 LilyPad LEDs]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/97 2 push button switches]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/retired/8549 a spool of 4-ply conductive thread]<br />
* un vêtement ou un morceau de tissu<br />
<br />
''information: J'ai concu le LilyPad, donc je vais gagner quelque $ si vous en achetez un''<br />
|Tools=* un multimetre digital, avec test de continuité avec bipper<br />
* une ou deux aiguille<br />
* un marquer ou une craie<br />
* puffy fabric paint<br />
* de la colle pour vêtements<br />
* un metre <br />
* une paire de ciseaux<br />
* scotch double face (optionnel)<br />
* une machine à coudre (optionnel)<br />
|Tuto_Attachments={{ {{tntn|Tuto Attachments}}<br />
|Attachment=Turn signal code.pdf<br />
}}{{ {{tntn|Tuto Attachments}}<br />
|Attachment=Turn signal biking jacket.pdf<br />
}}<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Separator}}}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01c.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Conception<br />
|Step_Content='''Conception esthétique et électrique de votre veste'''<br />
<br />
Decidez ou chaque composent va se placer et trouver comment vous allez les coudre ensemble, avec le moins possible de fils qui se croissent. Faites un schéma pour pouvoir vous y référer pendant votre travail. la photo ci-contre montre le schéma pour ma veste. Le point pour l'alimentation (+) est en rouge, la masse (-) en noir, les LEDs en vert et les boutons en violet.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=Note importante à propos de l'alimentation<br />
|Step_Content=Dans votre conception, gardez l'alimentation et le LilyPad proche l'un de l'autre. S'ils sont trop loin, vous pouvez avoir des problèmes avec le LilyPad qui redémarre, ou qui ne marche pas du tout.<br />
<br />
Pourquoi ? LEs fils conducteurs ont une résistance non négligeable. (Le fil de SparkFun qui va avec le LilyPad a une resistance de 14 ohms pour 30 cm environ.) Selon les modules que vous utilisez, LilyPad peux consommer jusqu'à 50mA. Selon la loi de Ohm, la tension chute à travers un conducteur, et la valeur de tension perdu est égale à la résistance du matériau fois la valeur du courant qui le traverse.<br />
<br />
Par exemple, si votre LilyPad est à 30cm de votre alimentation, le résistance totale est d'environ 28 Ohms (14 Ohms du pôle négatif au LilyPad + 14 Ohms pour relier le pôle positif). Cela signifie que l'on va avoir une chute de 1,4 Volts (28 Ohms * 0,05A). Donc si on a une alimentation de 5V, le LilyPad va recevoir seulement 3.6 Volts. Si la tension descent sous 3.3 Volts environ, le LilyPad va redémarrer. Il faut donc une resistance de 10 Ohms maximum entre l'alimentation et le LilyPad. Concevez les distances en accord avec cela. <br />
<br />
Si tout cela vous prête à confusion, ne vous inquiétez pas, gardez simplement le LilyPad et l'alimentation proche l'un de l'autre.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01da.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01db.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Transférez le schéma sur le vêtement<br />
|Step_Content=Utiliser la craie ou un marker non-permanent pour reproduire votre schéma sur le vêtement. Si vous le souhaitez, utilisez un mètre pour être sur que tout est droit et symétrique.<br />
<br />
Utiliser du scotch double face pour attacher temporairement les composants au vêtement. Cela vous donnera un bon apercu de ce à quoi va ressembler votre pièce finale. Cela maintiendra aussi tout en place pendant que vous cousez, tant que le scotch colle.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02d.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02i.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Préparation avant de coudre<br />
|Step_Content='''D'abord, coupez les fils sortant derrière l'alimentation'''<br />
<br />
Prenez l'alimentation de votre LilyPad et couper les parties métalliques qui dépassent sur le dessous. Des petites pinces comme celle sur la photo sont idéales pour ça, mais vous pouvez aussi utiliser des ciseaux.<br />
<br />
'''Fixez la batterie sur le vêtement'''<br />
<br />
On veut généralement faire tout ce que l'on peut pour empêcher l’alimentation de bouger sur le vêtement. Je recommande de coller ou coudre la batterie avant de faire le reste. Vous pouvez coller ou coudre quelque chose sous la batterie pour l’empêcher de tirer sur le vêtement, et de rebondir lorsque l'on bouge.<br />
<br />
Si vous voulez travailler sur du tissu fin, considérez bien votre choix ! Il est beacoup plus facile de travailler sur des pièces épaises de tissu non-élastique. Si vous voulez tout de même utiliser un tissu léger, choisissez judicieusement l'emplacement de la batterie. C'est la composant le plus lourd, donc placer le là ou il ne va pas trop déformer le vêtement. Dans ce cas, cousez ou coller quelque chose sous la batterie.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02a.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez la batterie et le LilyPad à votre veste<br />
|Step_Content='''Cousez le pétale + de l'alimentation à votre vêtement'''<br />
<br />
Coupez un file conducteur de 1m environ. Passez le dans l'aiguille, suffisamment pour que vous ne le perdiez pas facilement. Faites un nœud au bout du fil. Ne coupez pas le fils trop proche du nœud pour ne pas qu'il se défasse.<br />
<br />
En partant du dessous de vêtement vers le dessus, piquer l'aiguille dans le vêtement à coté du pétale + de l'alimentation, puis, depuis le dessus, pousser l'aiguille à travers. Le nœud au bout du fils bloqueras le fils dans le vêtement. Maintenant, faites un point dans le trou du pétale +. Faite le plusieurs fois, passant du dessous au dessus du vêtement, en passant dans le pétale + à chaque fois.<br />
<br />
Faites attention à cette couture, c'est la connexion la plus importante de votre projet.Soyez sur de bien faire contact entre l'alimentation et le fils, passez à travers le trou plusieurs fois (5 fois au minimum). Continuez à coudre jusqu'à ce que vous ne puissiez plus passer l'aiguille. Ne coupez pas le fils, continuez à l'étape suivante.<br />
<br />
'''Coudre de la batterie au LilyPad.'''<br />
On fois que la couture du petale + de la batterie est faite, faire de petits points sur le pétale + du LilyPad. J'ai utilisé une veste avec une doublure en polaire, et cousu seulement à l’intérieur de la doublure pour que les coutures ne soient pas visibles de l’extérieur.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02f.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02g.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02h.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Coudre le pétale + de votre LilyPad<br />
|Step_Content=Coudre le pétale + du LilyPad pour finir la connection.<br />
<br />
Lorsque vous arrivez au LilyPad, cousez le pétale + à la veste avec le fil conducteur. Tout comme vous avez fait avec le pétale de la batterie, vous devez faire très attention à faire une couture robuste ici. Ce raccord fait la connexion électrique entre l'alimentation et le LilyPad. <br />
<br />
Quand vous avez fini ce raccord, cousez un retour de 2cm environ le long de votre couture, faites un nœud, et coupez le fil à 1cm du nœud pour éviter que le nœud se défasse.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02j.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02k.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Mettez de la colle à vêtement sur chacun de vos nœuds<br />
|Step_Content=Put fabric glue on each of your knots to keep them from unraveling.<br />
<br />
Une fois la colle sèche, couper les fils qui dépassent de chaque nœud.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03d.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Testez votre couture<br />
|Step_Content='''Measure the resistance of your stitching.'''<br />
Get out your multimeter and put it on the resistance measuring setting. Measure from power supply + to LilyPad + and power supply - to LilyPad -. If the resistance of either of these traces is greater than 10 ohms, reinforce your stitching with more conductive thread.<br />
<br />
Put a AAA battery into the power supply and flip the power supply switch to the on position. The red light on the power supply should turn on. If it doesn't and you're sure you flipped the switch, quickly remove the battery and check for a short between your + and - stitches. (Most likely there is a piece of thread that's touching both the - and + stitching somewhere.) You can test for a short between + and - by using the beeping continuity tester on your multimeter.<br />
<br />
Also check the resistance between the + and - stitching. If the resistance is less than 10K Ohms or so, you've got a mini-short (probably a fine conductive thread hair that is touching both + and -) that you need to find and correct.<br />
<br />
If the power supply does turn on, look at your LilyPad. It should blink quickly each time you press its switch. Once these connections are working properly, turn off the power supply and remove the battery. <br />
<br />
'''Insulate your power and ground stitching'''<br />
So, your jacket is now full of uninsulated conductive stitches. This is fine when a body is inside of it. A body will prevent sewn traces from contacting each other. But when the jacket is off of a person and you bend or fold it, traces will touch each other and short out. To fix this problem, cover your traces with puffy fabric paint (or another insulator like a satin stitch in regular thread). But, you don't want to cover traces until you're sure that everything works! So, use good judgment in when to coat traces.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04d.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez les clignotants en LEDs<br />
|Step_Content='''Sew in your left and right signals.'''<br />
<br />
Using the same techniques you used to sew the power supply to the LilyPad, attach all of the + petals of the lights for the left turn signal together and to a petal on the LilyPad (petal 9 for me) and all of the + petals for the right signal together and to another LilyPad petal (11 for me). Attach all of the - petals of the lights together and then to either the - petal on the LilyPad or another LilyPad petal (petal 10 for me). Refer back to my design sketches if any of this is confusing.<br />
<br />
{{Caution|Text=Remember to seal each of your knots with fabric glue to keep them from unraveling. Be careful to avoid shorts; don't let one sewn trace touch another. In this case, the - traces for the LEDs are all connected, but you want to make sure that the + traces for the left and right signals do not touch the - trace or each other.}}<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=Testez les clignotants<br />
|Step_Content=Load a program onto your LilyPad that blinks each turn signal to make sure all of your sewing is correct.<br />
<br />
Here's my test program: [[File:Turn signal code.pdf]]<br />
<br />
If your layout is the same as mine, you can just copy and paste this program into your Arduino window.<br />
<br />
{{Info|Text=If your turn signals don't work, use your multimeter (and the instructions from the last step) to test for shorts or bad connections and make sure that your program matches your physical layout.}}<br />
<br />
'''insulate your turn signal stitches'''<br />
Cover your traces with puffy fabric paint. Remember, you don't want to cover traces until you're sure that everything works! Use good judgment in when to coat traces.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05d.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05e.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_05=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05f.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Placez vos boutons de contrôle<br />
|Step_Content=Find a spot for your switches where they'll be easy to press when you're riding your bike. I mounted mine on the underside of my wrists. I found a good spot by trying out different places. Check out the photos to see what I mean.<br />
<br />
Once you've found a good position, push the legs of the switch through the fabric and bend them over on the inside of the fabric.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05g.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05h.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05i.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez les boutons<br />
|Step_Content=Sew your switches into the garment. Sew 1 leg to the switch input petal on the LilyPad and another leg, one that is diagonally across from the first , to ground or another LilyPad petal. I used petal 6 for the switch input on the left side and petal 12 for switch input on the right side. I used - for the - connection on the left side, but petal 4 for the - connection on the right side. Refer back to my design drawings if any of this is confusing.<br />
<br />
When you're done sewing, go back and reinforce the switch connections with glue. You don't want your switches to fall out of their stitching.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_06a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_06b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_06c.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez un simple LED sur la manche de chaque bras<br />
|Step_Content=These will give you essential feedback about which turn signal is on. They'll flash to tell you what the back of your jacket is doing, so make sure they're in a visible spot. Sew the + petals of each LED to a LilyPad petal and the - petals of each LED to the - side of the switch (the - trace you sewed in the last step). I used petal 5 for the LED + on the left side and petal 3 for the LED + on the right side. Again, refer back to my design drawings if any of this is confusing.<br />
<br />
As always, remember to glue and trim knots and be careful not to create any shorts.<br />
<br />
Once you sew both wrist LEDs, you're done with the sewing phase of the project! Now, on to programming...<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07e.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07f.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Programmez votre veste<br />
|Step_Content='''Decide on the behavior you want'''<br />
I wanted the left switch to turn on the left turn signal for 15 seconds or so, and the right switch to do the same thing for the right signal. Pressing a switch when the corresponding turn signal is on should turn the signal off. Pressing both switches at the same time should put the jacket into nighttime flashing mode. The wrist mounted LEDs should provide feedback about the current state of the jacket.<br />
<br />
Here's the code I wrote to get that behavior: [[File:Turn signal biking jacket.pdf]]<br />
<br />
'''Program your jacket'''<br />
To program your garment, copy and paste my code into an Arduino window and load it onto the LilyPad. You may have to make some small adjustments first depending on where you attached lights and switches. Play with delays to customize your blinking patterns.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=Allez Pédaler<br />
|Step_Content=Plug your battery back in and see if it works and...go biking!<br />
<br />
'''Insulate the rest of your traces'''<br />
<br />
Cover the rest of your traces with puffy fabric paint. Again, don't coat anything until you're sure it works.<br />
<br />
'''About washing'''<br />
<br />
Your creation is washable. Remove the battery and wash the garment by hand with a gentle detergent.<br />
<br />
Note: silver coated threads will corrode over time and their resistance will gradually increase with washing and wear. To limit the effects of corrosion, insulate and protect your traces with puffy fabric paint or some other insulator. You can also revive exposed corroded traces with silver polish. Try this on a non-visible area first to see what it does to your fabric!<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Notes}}<br />
|Notes=<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Status}}<br />
|Complete=Yes<br />
}}</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Translations:Turn_signal_biking_jacket/32/fr&diff=26657Translations:Turn signal biking jacket/32/fr2017-09-19T16:19:10Z<p>Pyro : </p>
<hr />
<div>Mettez de la colle à vêtement sur chacun de vos nœuds</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Turn_signal_biking_jacket/fr&diff=26656Turn signal biking jacket/fr2017-09-19T16:19:06Z<p>Pyro : Page créée avec « Quand vous avez fini ce raccord, cousez un retour de 2cm environ le long de votre couture, faites un nœud, et coupez le fil à 1cm du nœud pour éviter que le nœud se d... »</p>
<hr />
<div>{{ {{tntn|Tuto Details}}<br />
|SourceLanguage=en<br />
|Language=fr<br />
|IsTranslation=1<br />
|Type=Creation<br />
|Area=Electronics, Sport and Outside<br />
|Description=Ce tutoriel va vous montrer comment fabriquer une veste avec des clignotants pour indiquer ou vous allez tourner. On va utiliser du fil conducteur et des circuits electornique à coudre. Ainsi votre veste restera souple et lavable.<br />
|Difficulty=Medium<br />
|Cost=50<br />
|Currency=USD ($)<br />
|Duration=5<br />
|Duration-type=hour(s)<br />
|Licences=Attribution-ShareAlike (CC BY-SA)<br />
|Main_Picture=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Biking-jacket.jpg<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Introduction}}<br />
|Introduction=<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Materials}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_vest_supplies.jpg<br />
|Material=* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13342 LilyPad Arduino main board]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9873 FTDI connector]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11301 mini USB cable]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11259 LilyPad power supply]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10081 16 LilyPad LEDs]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/97 2 push button switches]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/retired/8549 a spool of 4-ply conductive thread]<br />
* un vêtement ou un morceau de tissu<br />
<br />
''information: J'ai concu le LilyPad, donc je vais gagner quelque $ si vous en achetez un''<br />
|Tools=* un multimetre digital, avec test de continuité avec bipper<br />
* une ou deux aiguille<br />
* un marquer ou une craie<br />
* puffy fabric paint<br />
* de la colle pour vêtements<br />
* un metre <br />
* une paire de ciseaux<br />
* scotch double face (optionnel)<br />
* une machine à coudre (optionnel)<br />
|Tuto_Attachments={{ {{tntn|Tuto Attachments}}<br />
|Attachment=Turn signal code.pdf<br />
}}{{ {{tntn|Tuto Attachments}}<br />
|Attachment=Turn signal biking jacket.pdf<br />
}}<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Separator}}}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01c.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Conception<br />
|Step_Content='''Conception esthétique et électrique de votre veste'''<br />
<br />
Decidez ou chaque composent va se placer et trouver comment vous allez les coudre ensemble, avec le moins possible de fils qui se croissent. Faites un schéma pour pouvoir vous y référer pendant votre travail. la photo ci-contre montre le schéma pour ma veste. Le point pour l'alimentation (+) est en rouge, la masse (-) en noir, les LEDs en vert et les boutons en violet.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=Note importante à propos de l'alimentation<br />
|Step_Content=Dans votre conception, gardez l'alimentation et le LilyPad proche l'un de l'autre. S'ils sont trop loin, vous pouvez avoir des problèmes avec le LilyPad qui redémarre, ou qui ne marche pas du tout.<br />
<br />
Pourquoi ? LEs fils conducteurs ont une résistance non négligeable. (Le fil de SparkFun qui va avec le LilyPad a une resistance de 14 ohms pour 30 cm environ.) Selon les modules que vous utilisez, LilyPad peux consommer jusqu'à 50mA. Selon la loi de Ohm, la tension chute à travers un conducteur, et la valeur de tension perdu est égale à la résistance du matériau fois la valeur du courant qui le traverse.<br />
<br />
Par exemple, si votre LilyPad est à 30cm de votre alimentation, le résistance totale est d'environ 28 Ohms (14 Ohms du pôle négatif au LilyPad + 14 Ohms pour relier le pôle positif). Cela signifie que l'on va avoir une chute de 1,4 Volts (28 Ohms * 0,05A). Donc si on a une alimentation de 5V, le LilyPad va recevoir seulement 3.6 Volts. Si la tension descent sous 3.3 Volts environ, le LilyPad va redémarrer. Il faut donc une resistance de 10 Ohms maximum entre l'alimentation et le LilyPad. Concevez les distances en accord avec cela. <br />
<br />
Si tout cela vous prête à confusion, ne vous inquiétez pas, gardez simplement le LilyPad et l'alimentation proche l'un de l'autre.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01da.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01db.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Transférez le schéma sur le vêtement<br />
|Step_Content=Utiliser la craie ou un marker non-permanent pour reproduire votre schéma sur le vêtement. Si vous le souhaitez, utilisez un mètre pour être sur que tout est droit et symétrique.<br />
<br />
Utiliser du scotch double face pour attacher temporairement les composants au vêtement. Cela vous donnera un bon apercu de ce à quoi va ressembler votre pièce finale. Cela maintiendra aussi tout en place pendant que vous cousez, tant que le scotch colle.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02d.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02i.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Préparation avant de coudre<br />
|Step_Content='''D'abord, coupez les fils sortant derrière l'alimentation'''<br />
<br />
Prenez l'alimentation de votre LilyPad et couper les parties métalliques qui dépassent sur le dessous. Des petites pinces comme celle sur la photo sont idéales pour ça, mais vous pouvez aussi utiliser des ciseaux.<br />
<br />
'''Fixez la batterie sur le vêtement'''<br />
<br />
On veut généralement faire tout ce que l'on peut pour empêcher l’alimentation de bouger sur le vêtement. Je recommande de coller ou coudre la batterie avant de faire le reste. Vous pouvez coller ou coudre quelque chose sous la batterie pour l’empêcher de tirer sur le vêtement, et de rebondir lorsque l'on bouge.<br />
<br />
Si vous voulez travailler sur du tissu fin, considérez bien votre choix ! Il est beacoup plus facile de travailler sur des pièces épaises de tissu non-élastique. Si vous voulez tout de même utiliser un tissu léger, choisissez judicieusement l'emplacement de la batterie. C'est la composant le plus lourd, donc placer le là ou il ne va pas trop déformer le vêtement. Dans ce cas, cousez ou coller quelque chose sous la batterie.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02a.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez la batterie et le LilyPad à votre veste<br />
|Step_Content='''Cousez le pétale + de l'alimentation à votre vêtement'''<br />
<br />
Coupez un file conducteur de 1m environ. Passez le dans l'aiguille, suffisamment pour que vous ne le perdiez pas facilement. Faites un nœud au bout du fil. Ne coupez pas le fils trop proche du nœud pour ne pas qu'il se défasse.<br />
<br />
En partant du dessous de vêtement vers le dessus, piquer l'aiguille dans le vêtement à coté du pétale + de l'alimentation, puis, depuis le dessus, pousser l'aiguille à travers. Le nœud au bout du fils bloqueras le fils dans le vêtement. Maintenant, faites un point dans le trou du pétale +. Faite le plusieurs fois, passant du dessous au dessus du vêtement, en passant dans le pétale + à chaque fois.<br />
<br />
Faites attention à cette couture, c'est la connexion la plus importante de votre projet.Soyez sur de bien faire contact entre l'alimentation et le fils, passez à travers le trou plusieurs fois (5 fois au minimum). Continuez à coudre jusqu'à ce que vous ne puissiez plus passer l'aiguille. Ne coupez pas le fils, continuez à l'étape suivante.<br />
<br />
'''Coudre de la batterie au LilyPad.'''<br />
On fois que la couture du petale + de la batterie est faite, faire de petits points sur le pétale + du LilyPad. J'ai utilisé une veste avec une doublure en polaire, et cousu seulement à l’intérieur de la doublure pour que les coutures ne soient pas visibles de l’extérieur.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02f.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02g.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02h.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Coudre le pétale + de votre LilyPad<br />
|Step_Content=Coudre le pétale + du LilyPad pour finir la connection.<br />
<br />
Lorsque vous arrivez au LilyPad, cousez le pétale + à la veste avec le fil conducteur. Tout comme vous avez fait avec le pétale de la batterie, vous devez faire très attention à faire une couture robuste ici. Ce raccord fait la connexion électrique entre l'alimentation et le LilyPad. <br />
<br />
Quand vous avez fini ce raccord, cousez un retour de 2cm environ le long de votre couture, faites un nœud, et coupez le fil à 1cm du nœud pour éviter que le nœud se défasse.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02j.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02k.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Mettez de la colle à vêtement sur chacun de vos noeuds<br />
|Step_Content=Put fabric glue on each of your knots to keep them from unraveling.<br />
<br />
Une fois la colle sèche, couper les fils qui dépassent de chaque nœud.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03d.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Testez votre couture<br />
|Step_Content='''Measure the resistance of your stitching.'''<br />
Get out your multimeter and put it on the resistance measuring setting. Measure from power supply + to LilyPad + and power supply - to LilyPad -. If the resistance of either of these traces is greater than 10 ohms, reinforce your stitching with more conductive thread.<br />
<br />
Put a AAA battery into the power supply and flip the power supply switch to the on position. The red light on the power supply should turn on. If it doesn't and you're sure you flipped the switch, quickly remove the battery and check for a short between your + and - stitches. (Most likely there is a piece of thread that's touching both the - and + stitching somewhere.) You can test for a short between + and - by using the beeping continuity tester on your multimeter.<br />
<br />
Also check the resistance between the + and - stitching. If the resistance is less than 10K Ohms or so, you've got a mini-short (probably a fine conductive thread hair that is touching both + and -) that you need to find and correct.<br />
<br />
If the power supply does turn on, look at your LilyPad. It should blink quickly each time you press its switch. Once these connections are working properly, turn off the power supply and remove the battery. <br />
<br />
'''Insulate your power and ground stitching'''<br />
So, your jacket is now full of uninsulated conductive stitches. This is fine when a body is inside of it. A body will prevent sewn traces from contacting each other. But when the jacket is off of a person and you bend or fold it, traces will touch each other and short out. To fix this problem, cover your traces with puffy fabric paint (or another insulator like a satin stitch in regular thread). But, you don't want to cover traces until you're sure that everything works! So, use good judgment in when to coat traces.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04d.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez les clignotants en LEDs<br />
|Step_Content='''Sew in your left and right signals.'''<br />
<br />
Using the same techniques you used to sew the power supply to the LilyPad, attach all of the + petals of the lights for the left turn signal together and to a petal on the LilyPad (petal 9 for me) and all of the + petals for the right signal together and to another LilyPad petal (11 for me). Attach all of the - petals of the lights together and then to either the - petal on the LilyPad or another LilyPad petal (petal 10 for me). Refer back to my design sketches if any of this is confusing.<br />
<br />
{{Caution|Text=Remember to seal each of your knots with fabric glue to keep them from unraveling. Be careful to avoid shorts; don't let one sewn trace touch another. In this case, the - traces for the LEDs are all connected, but you want to make sure that the + traces for the left and right signals do not touch the - trace or each other.}}<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=Testez les clignotants<br />
|Step_Content=Load a program onto your LilyPad that blinks each turn signal to make sure all of your sewing is correct.<br />
<br />
Here's my test program: [[File:Turn signal code.pdf]]<br />
<br />
If your layout is the same as mine, you can just copy and paste this program into your Arduino window.<br />
<br />
{{Info|Text=If your turn signals don't work, use your multimeter (and the instructions from the last step) to test for shorts or bad connections and make sure that your program matches your physical layout.}}<br />
<br />
'''insulate your turn signal stitches'''<br />
Cover your traces with puffy fabric paint. Remember, you don't want to cover traces until you're sure that everything works! Use good judgment in when to coat traces.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05d.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05e.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_05=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05f.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Placez vos boutons de contrôle<br />
|Step_Content=Find a spot for your switches where they'll be easy to press when you're riding your bike. I mounted mine on the underside of my wrists. I found a good spot by trying out different places. Check out the photos to see what I mean.<br />
<br />
Once you've found a good position, push the legs of the switch through the fabric and bend them over on the inside of the fabric.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05g.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05h.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05i.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez les boutons<br />
|Step_Content=Sew your switches into the garment. Sew 1 leg to the switch input petal on the LilyPad and another leg, one that is diagonally across from the first , to ground or another LilyPad petal. I used petal 6 for the switch input on the left side and petal 12 for switch input on the right side. I used - for the - connection on the left side, but petal 4 for the - connection on the right side. Refer back to my design drawings if any of this is confusing.<br />
<br />
When you're done sewing, go back and reinforce the switch connections with glue. You don't want your switches to fall out of their stitching.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_06a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_06b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_06c.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez un simple LED sur la manche de chaque bras<br />
|Step_Content=These will give you essential feedback about which turn signal is on. They'll flash to tell you what the back of your jacket is doing, so make sure they're in a visible spot. Sew the + petals of each LED to a LilyPad petal and the - petals of each LED to the - side of the switch (the - trace you sewed in the last step). I used petal 5 for the LED + on the left side and petal 3 for the LED + on the right side. Again, refer back to my design drawings if any of this is confusing.<br />
<br />
As always, remember to glue and trim knots and be careful not to create any shorts.<br />
<br />
Once you sew both wrist LEDs, you're done with the sewing phase of the project! Now, on to programming...<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07e.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07f.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Programmez votre veste<br />
|Step_Content='''Decide on the behavior you want'''<br />
I wanted the left switch to turn on the left turn signal for 15 seconds or so, and the right switch to do the same thing for the right signal. Pressing a switch when the corresponding turn signal is on should turn the signal off. Pressing both switches at the same time should put the jacket into nighttime flashing mode. The wrist mounted LEDs should provide feedback about the current state of the jacket.<br />
<br />
Here's the code I wrote to get that behavior: [[File:Turn signal biking jacket.pdf]]<br />
<br />
'''Program your jacket'''<br />
To program your garment, copy and paste my code into an Arduino window and load it onto the LilyPad. You may have to make some small adjustments first depending on where you attached lights and switches. Play with delays to customize your blinking patterns.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=Allez Pédaler<br />
|Step_Content=Plug your battery back in and see if it works and...go biking!<br />
<br />
'''Insulate the rest of your traces'''<br />
<br />
Cover the rest of your traces with puffy fabric paint. Again, don't coat anything until you're sure it works.<br />
<br />
'''About washing'''<br />
<br />
Your creation is washable. Remove the battery and wash the garment by hand with a gentle detergent.<br />
<br />
Note: silver coated threads will corrode over time and their resistance will gradually increase with washing and wear. To limit the effects of corrosion, insulate and protect your traces with puffy fabric paint or some other insulator. You can also revive exposed corroded traces with silver polish. Try this on a non-visible area first to see what it does to your fabric!<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Notes}}<br />
|Notes=<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Status}}<br />
|Complete=Yes<br />
}}</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Translations:Turn_signal_biking_jacket/31/fr&diff=26655Translations:Turn signal biking jacket/31/fr2017-09-19T16:19:04Z<p>Pyro : Page créée avec « Quand vous avez fini ce raccord, cousez un retour de 2cm environ le long de votre couture, faites un nœud, et coupez le fil à 1cm du nœud pour éviter que le nœud se d... »</p>
<hr />
<div>Quand vous avez fini ce raccord, cousez un retour de 2cm environ le long de votre couture, faites un nœud, et coupez le fil à 1cm du nœud pour éviter que le nœud se défasse.</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Turn_signal_biking_jacket/fr&diff=26654Turn signal biking jacket/fr2017-09-19T16:16:17Z<p>Pyro : Page créée avec « Lorsque vous arrivez au LilyPad, cousez le pétale + à la veste avec le fil conducteur. Tout comme vous avez fait avec le pétale de la batterie, vous devez faire très a... »</p>
<hr />
<div>{{ {{tntn|Tuto Details}}<br />
|SourceLanguage=en<br />
|Language=fr<br />
|IsTranslation=1<br />
|Type=Creation<br />
|Area=Electronics, Sport and Outside<br />
|Description=Ce tutoriel va vous montrer comment fabriquer une veste avec des clignotants pour indiquer ou vous allez tourner. On va utiliser du fil conducteur et des circuits electornique à coudre. Ainsi votre veste restera souple et lavable.<br />
|Difficulty=Medium<br />
|Cost=50<br />
|Currency=USD ($)<br />
|Duration=5<br />
|Duration-type=hour(s)<br />
|Licences=Attribution-ShareAlike (CC BY-SA)<br />
|Main_Picture=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Biking-jacket.jpg<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Introduction}}<br />
|Introduction=<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Materials}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_vest_supplies.jpg<br />
|Material=* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13342 LilyPad Arduino main board]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9873 FTDI connector]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11301 mini USB cable]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11259 LilyPad power supply]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10081 16 LilyPad LEDs]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/97 2 push button switches]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/retired/8549 a spool of 4-ply conductive thread]<br />
* un vêtement ou un morceau de tissu<br />
<br />
''information: J'ai concu le LilyPad, donc je vais gagner quelque $ si vous en achetez un''<br />
|Tools=* un multimetre digital, avec test de continuité avec bipper<br />
* une ou deux aiguille<br />
* un marquer ou une craie<br />
* puffy fabric paint<br />
* de la colle pour vêtements<br />
* un metre <br />
* une paire de ciseaux<br />
* scotch double face (optionnel)<br />
* une machine à coudre (optionnel)<br />
|Tuto_Attachments={{ {{tntn|Tuto Attachments}}<br />
|Attachment=Turn signal code.pdf<br />
}}{{ {{tntn|Tuto Attachments}}<br />
|Attachment=Turn signal biking jacket.pdf<br />
}}<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Separator}}}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01c.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Conception<br />
|Step_Content='''Conception esthétique et électrique de votre veste'''<br />
<br />
Decidez ou chaque composent va se placer et trouver comment vous allez les coudre ensemble, avec le moins possible de fils qui se croissent. Faites un schéma pour pouvoir vous y référer pendant votre travail. la photo ci-contre montre le schéma pour ma veste. Le point pour l'alimentation (+) est en rouge, la masse (-) en noir, les LEDs en vert et les boutons en violet.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=Note importante à propos de l'alimentation<br />
|Step_Content=Dans votre conception, gardez l'alimentation et le LilyPad proche l'un de l'autre. S'ils sont trop loin, vous pouvez avoir des problèmes avec le LilyPad qui redémarre, ou qui ne marche pas du tout.<br />
<br />
Pourquoi ? LEs fils conducteurs ont une résistance non négligeable. (Le fil de SparkFun qui va avec le LilyPad a une resistance de 14 ohms pour 30 cm environ.) Selon les modules que vous utilisez, LilyPad peux consommer jusqu'à 50mA. Selon la loi de Ohm, la tension chute à travers un conducteur, et la valeur de tension perdu est égale à la résistance du matériau fois la valeur du courant qui le traverse.<br />
<br />
Par exemple, si votre LilyPad est à 30cm de votre alimentation, le résistance totale est d'environ 28 Ohms (14 Ohms du pôle négatif au LilyPad + 14 Ohms pour relier le pôle positif). Cela signifie que l'on va avoir une chute de 1,4 Volts (28 Ohms * 0,05A). Donc si on a une alimentation de 5V, le LilyPad va recevoir seulement 3.6 Volts. Si la tension descent sous 3.3 Volts environ, le LilyPad va redémarrer. Il faut donc une resistance de 10 Ohms maximum entre l'alimentation et le LilyPad. Concevez les distances en accord avec cela. <br />
<br />
Si tout cela vous prête à confusion, ne vous inquiétez pas, gardez simplement le LilyPad et l'alimentation proche l'un de l'autre.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01da.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01db.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Transférez le schéma sur le vêtement<br />
|Step_Content=Utiliser la craie ou un marker non-permanent pour reproduire votre schéma sur le vêtement. Si vous le souhaitez, utilisez un mètre pour être sur que tout est droit et symétrique.<br />
<br />
Utiliser du scotch double face pour attacher temporairement les composants au vêtement. Cela vous donnera un bon apercu de ce à quoi va ressembler votre pièce finale. Cela maintiendra aussi tout en place pendant que vous cousez, tant que le scotch colle.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02d.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02i.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Préparation avant de coudre<br />
|Step_Content='''D'abord, coupez les fils sortant derrière l'alimentation'''<br />
<br />
Prenez l'alimentation de votre LilyPad et couper les parties métalliques qui dépassent sur le dessous. Des petites pinces comme celle sur la photo sont idéales pour ça, mais vous pouvez aussi utiliser des ciseaux.<br />
<br />
'''Fixez la batterie sur le vêtement'''<br />
<br />
On veut généralement faire tout ce que l'on peut pour empêcher l’alimentation de bouger sur le vêtement. Je recommande de coller ou coudre la batterie avant de faire le reste. Vous pouvez coller ou coudre quelque chose sous la batterie pour l’empêcher de tirer sur le vêtement, et de rebondir lorsque l'on bouge.<br />
<br />
Si vous voulez travailler sur du tissu fin, considérez bien votre choix ! Il est beacoup plus facile de travailler sur des pièces épaises de tissu non-élastique. Si vous voulez tout de même utiliser un tissu léger, choisissez judicieusement l'emplacement de la batterie. C'est la composant le plus lourd, donc placer le là ou il ne va pas trop déformer le vêtement. Dans ce cas, cousez ou coller quelque chose sous la batterie.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02a.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez la batterie et le LilyPad à votre veste<br />
|Step_Content='''Cousez le pétale + de l'alimentation à votre vêtement'''<br />
<br />
Coupez un file conducteur de 1m environ. Passez le dans l'aiguille, suffisamment pour que vous ne le perdiez pas facilement. Faites un nœud au bout du fil. Ne coupez pas le fils trop proche du nœud pour ne pas qu'il se défasse.<br />
<br />
En partant du dessous de vêtement vers le dessus, piquer l'aiguille dans le vêtement à coté du pétale + de l'alimentation, puis, depuis le dessus, pousser l'aiguille à travers. Le nœud au bout du fils bloqueras le fils dans le vêtement. Maintenant, faites un point dans le trou du pétale +. Faite le plusieurs fois, passant du dessous au dessus du vêtement, en passant dans le pétale + à chaque fois.<br />
<br />
Faites attention à cette couture, c'est la connexion la plus importante de votre projet.Soyez sur de bien faire contact entre l'alimentation et le fils, passez à travers le trou plusieurs fois (5 fois au minimum). Continuez à coudre jusqu'à ce que vous ne puissiez plus passer l'aiguille. Ne coupez pas le fils, continuez à l'étape suivante.<br />
<br />
'''Coudre de la batterie au LilyPad.'''<br />
On fois que la couture du petale + de la batterie est faite, faire de petits points sur le pétale + du LilyPad. J'ai utilisé une veste avec une doublure en polaire, et cousu seulement à l’intérieur de la doublure pour que les coutures ne soient pas visibles de l’extérieur.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02f.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02g.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02h.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Coudre le pétale + de votre LilyPad<br />
|Step_Content=Coudre le pétale + du LilyPad pour finir la connection.<br />
<br />
Lorsque vous arrivez au LilyPad, cousez le pétale + à la veste avec le fil conducteur. Tout comme vous avez fait avec le pétale de la batterie, vous devez faire très attention à faire une couture robuste ici. Ce raccord fait la connexion électrique entre l'alimentation et le LilyPad. <br />
<br />
When you are done with this attachment, sew away from the LilyPad about an inch along your stitching, tie a knot, and cut your thread about an inch away from the knot so that your knot won't come untied.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02j.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02k.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Mettez de la colle à vêtement sur chacun de vos noeuds<br />
|Step_Content=Put fabric glue on each of your knots to keep them from unraveling.<br />
<br />
Une fois la colle sèche, couper les fils qui dépassent de chaque nœud.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03d.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Testez votre couture<br />
|Step_Content='''Measure the resistance of your stitching.'''<br />
Get out your multimeter and put it on the resistance measuring setting. Measure from power supply + to LilyPad + and power supply - to LilyPad -. If the resistance of either of these traces is greater than 10 ohms, reinforce your stitching with more conductive thread.<br />
<br />
Put a AAA battery into the power supply and flip the power supply switch to the on position. The red light on the power supply should turn on. If it doesn't and you're sure you flipped the switch, quickly remove the battery and check for a short between your + and - stitches. (Most likely there is a piece of thread that's touching both the - and + stitching somewhere.) You can test for a short between + and - by using the beeping continuity tester on your multimeter.<br />
<br />
Also check the resistance between the + and - stitching. If the resistance is less than 10K Ohms or so, you've got a mini-short (probably a fine conductive thread hair that is touching both + and -) that you need to find and correct.<br />
<br />
If the power supply does turn on, look at your LilyPad. It should blink quickly each time you press its switch. Once these connections are working properly, turn off the power supply and remove the battery. <br />
<br />
'''Insulate your power and ground stitching'''<br />
So, your jacket is now full of uninsulated conductive stitches. This is fine when a body is inside of it. A body will prevent sewn traces from contacting each other. But when the jacket is off of a person and you bend or fold it, traces will touch each other and short out. To fix this problem, cover your traces with puffy fabric paint (or another insulator like a satin stitch in regular thread). But, you don't want to cover traces until you're sure that everything works! So, use good judgment in when to coat traces.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04d.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez les clignotants en LEDs<br />
|Step_Content='''Sew in your left and right signals.'''<br />
<br />
Using the same techniques you used to sew the power supply to the LilyPad, attach all of the + petals of the lights for the left turn signal together and to a petal on the LilyPad (petal 9 for me) and all of the + petals for the right signal together and to another LilyPad petal (11 for me). Attach all of the - petals of the lights together and then to either the - petal on the LilyPad or another LilyPad petal (petal 10 for me). Refer back to my design sketches if any of this is confusing.<br />
<br />
{{Caution|Text=Remember to seal each of your knots with fabric glue to keep them from unraveling. Be careful to avoid shorts; don't let one sewn trace touch another. In this case, the - traces for the LEDs are all connected, but you want to make sure that the + traces for the left and right signals do not touch the - trace or each other.}}<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=Testez les clignotants<br />
|Step_Content=Load a program onto your LilyPad that blinks each turn signal to make sure all of your sewing is correct.<br />
<br />
Here's my test program: [[File:Turn signal code.pdf]]<br />
<br />
If your layout is the same as mine, you can just copy and paste this program into your Arduino window.<br />
<br />
{{Info|Text=If your turn signals don't work, use your multimeter (and the instructions from the last step) to test for shorts or bad connections and make sure that your program matches your physical layout.}}<br />
<br />
'''insulate your turn signal stitches'''<br />
Cover your traces with puffy fabric paint. Remember, you don't want to cover traces until you're sure that everything works! Use good judgment in when to coat traces.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05d.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05e.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_05=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05f.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Placez vos boutons de contrôle<br />
|Step_Content=Find a spot for your switches where they'll be easy to press when you're riding your bike. I mounted mine on the underside of my wrists. I found a good spot by trying out different places. Check out the photos to see what I mean.<br />
<br />
Once you've found a good position, push the legs of the switch through the fabric and bend them over on the inside of the fabric.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05g.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05h.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05i.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez les boutons<br />
|Step_Content=Sew your switches into the garment. Sew 1 leg to the switch input petal on the LilyPad and another leg, one that is diagonally across from the first , to ground or another LilyPad petal. I used petal 6 for the switch input on the left side and petal 12 for switch input on the right side. I used - for the - connection on the left side, but petal 4 for the - connection on the right side. Refer back to my design drawings if any of this is confusing.<br />
<br />
When you're done sewing, go back and reinforce the switch connections with glue. You don't want your switches to fall out of their stitching.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_06a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_06b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_06c.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez un simple LED sur la manche de chaque bras<br />
|Step_Content=These will give you essential feedback about which turn signal is on. They'll flash to tell you what the back of your jacket is doing, so make sure they're in a visible spot. Sew the + petals of each LED to a LilyPad petal and the - petals of each LED to the - side of the switch (the - trace you sewed in the last step). I used petal 5 for the LED + on the left side and petal 3 for the LED + on the right side. Again, refer back to my design drawings if any of this is confusing.<br />
<br />
As always, remember to glue and trim knots and be careful not to create any shorts.<br />
<br />
Once you sew both wrist LEDs, you're done with the sewing phase of the project! Now, on to programming...<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07e.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07f.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Programmez votre veste<br />
|Step_Content='''Decide on the behavior you want'''<br />
I wanted the left switch to turn on the left turn signal for 15 seconds or so, and the right switch to do the same thing for the right signal. Pressing a switch when the corresponding turn signal is on should turn the signal off. Pressing both switches at the same time should put the jacket into nighttime flashing mode. The wrist mounted LEDs should provide feedback about the current state of the jacket.<br />
<br />
Here's the code I wrote to get that behavior: [[File:Turn signal biking jacket.pdf]]<br />
<br />
'''Program your jacket'''<br />
To program your garment, copy and paste my code into an Arduino window and load it onto the LilyPad. You may have to make some small adjustments first depending on where you attached lights and switches. Play with delays to customize your blinking patterns.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=Allez Pédaler<br />
|Step_Content=Plug your battery back in and see if it works and...go biking!<br />
<br />
'''Insulate the rest of your traces'''<br />
<br />
Cover the rest of your traces with puffy fabric paint. Again, don't coat anything until you're sure it works.<br />
<br />
'''About washing'''<br />
<br />
Your creation is washable. Remove the battery and wash the garment by hand with a gentle detergent.<br />
<br />
Note: silver coated threads will corrode over time and their resistance will gradually increase with washing and wear. To limit the effects of corrosion, insulate and protect your traces with puffy fabric paint or some other insulator. You can also revive exposed corroded traces with silver polish. Try this on a non-visible area first to see what it does to your fabric!<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Notes}}<br />
|Notes=<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Status}}<br />
|Complete=Yes<br />
}}</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Translations:Turn_signal_biking_jacket/30/fr&diff=26653Translations:Turn signal biking jacket/30/fr2017-09-19T16:16:15Z<p>Pyro : Page créée avec « Lorsque vous arrivez au LilyPad, cousez le pétale + à la veste avec le fil conducteur. Tout comme vous avez fait avec le pétale de la batterie, vous devez faire très a... »</p>
<hr />
<div>Lorsque vous arrivez au LilyPad, cousez le pétale + à la veste avec le fil conducteur. Tout comme vous avez fait avec le pétale de la batterie, vous devez faire très attention à faire une couture robuste ici. Ce raccord fait la connexion électrique entre l'alimentation et le LilyPad.</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Turn_signal_biking_jacket/fr&diff=26652Turn signal biking jacket/fr2017-09-19T16:13:16Z<p>Pyro : Page créée avec « '''Conception esthétique et électrique de votre veste''' »</p>
<hr />
<div>{{ {{tntn|Tuto Details}}<br />
|SourceLanguage=en<br />
|Language=fr<br />
|IsTranslation=1<br />
|Type=Creation<br />
|Area=Electronics, Sport and Outside<br />
|Description=Ce tutoriel va vous montrer comment fabriquer une veste avec des clignotants pour indiquer ou vous allez tourner. On va utiliser du fil conducteur et des circuits electornique à coudre. Ainsi votre veste restera souple et lavable.<br />
|Difficulty=Medium<br />
|Cost=50<br />
|Currency=USD ($)<br />
|Duration=5<br />
|Duration-type=hour(s)<br />
|Licences=Attribution-ShareAlike (CC BY-SA)<br />
|Main_Picture=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Biking-jacket.jpg<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Introduction}}<br />
|Introduction=<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Materials}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_vest_supplies.jpg<br />
|Material=* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13342 LilyPad Arduino main board]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9873 FTDI connector]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11301 mini USB cable]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11259 LilyPad power supply]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10081 16 LilyPad LEDs]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/97 2 push button switches]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/retired/8549 a spool of 4-ply conductive thread]<br />
* un vêtement ou un morceau de tissu<br />
<br />
''information: J'ai concu le LilyPad, donc je vais gagner quelque $ si vous en achetez un''<br />
|Tools=* un multimetre digital, avec test de continuité avec bipper<br />
* une ou deux aiguille<br />
* un marquer ou une craie<br />
* puffy fabric paint<br />
* de la colle pour vêtements<br />
* un metre <br />
* une paire de ciseaux<br />
* scotch double face (optionnel)<br />
* une machine à coudre (optionnel)<br />
|Tuto_Attachments={{ {{tntn|Tuto Attachments}}<br />
|Attachment=Turn signal code.pdf<br />
}}{{ {{tntn|Tuto Attachments}}<br />
|Attachment=Turn signal biking jacket.pdf<br />
}}<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Separator}}}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01c.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Conception<br />
|Step_Content='''Conception esthétique et électrique de votre veste'''<br />
<br />
Decidez ou chaque composent va se placer et trouver comment vous allez les coudre ensemble, avec le moins possible de fils qui se croissent. Faites un schéma pour pouvoir vous y référer pendant votre travail. la photo ci-contre montre le schéma pour ma veste. Le point pour l'alimentation (+) est en rouge, la masse (-) en noir, les LEDs en vert et les boutons en violet.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=Note importante à propos de l'alimentation<br />
|Step_Content=Dans votre conception, gardez l'alimentation et le LilyPad proche l'un de l'autre. S'ils sont trop loin, vous pouvez avoir des problèmes avec le LilyPad qui redémarre, ou qui ne marche pas du tout.<br />
<br />
Pourquoi ? LEs fils conducteurs ont une résistance non négligeable. (Le fil de SparkFun qui va avec le LilyPad a une resistance de 14 ohms pour 30 cm environ.) Selon les modules que vous utilisez, LilyPad peux consommer jusqu'à 50mA. Selon la loi de Ohm, la tension chute à travers un conducteur, et la valeur de tension perdu est égale à la résistance du matériau fois la valeur du courant qui le traverse.<br />
<br />
Par exemple, si votre LilyPad est à 30cm de votre alimentation, le résistance totale est d'environ 28 Ohms (14 Ohms du pôle négatif au LilyPad + 14 Ohms pour relier le pôle positif). Cela signifie que l'on va avoir une chute de 1,4 Volts (28 Ohms * 0,05A). Donc si on a une alimentation de 5V, le LilyPad va recevoir seulement 3.6 Volts. Si la tension descent sous 3.3 Volts environ, le LilyPad va redémarrer. Il faut donc une resistance de 10 Ohms maximum entre l'alimentation et le LilyPad. Concevez les distances en accord avec cela. <br />
<br />
Si tout cela vous prête à confusion, ne vous inquiétez pas, gardez simplement le LilyPad et l'alimentation proche l'un de l'autre.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01da.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01db.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Transférez le schéma sur le vêtement<br />
|Step_Content=Utiliser la craie ou un marker non-permanent pour reproduire votre schéma sur le vêtement. Si vous le souhaitez, utilisez un mètre pour être sur que tout est droit et symétrique.<br />
<br />
Utiliser du scotch double face pour attacher temporairement les composants au vêtement. Cela vous donnera un bon apercu de ce à quoi va ressembler votre pièce finale. Cela maintiendra aussi tout en place pendant que vous cousez, tant que le scotch colle.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02d.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02i.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Préparation avant de coudre<br />
|Step_Content='''D'abord, coupez les fils sortant derrière l'alimentation'''<br />
<br />
Prenez l'alimentation de votre LilyPad et couper les parties métalliques qui dépassent sur le dessous. Des petites pinces comme celle sur la photo sont idéales pour ça, mais vous pouvez aussi utiliser des ciseaux.<br />
<br />
'''Fixez la batterie sur le vêtement'''<br />
<br />
On veut généralement faire tout ce que l'on peut pour empêcher l’alimentation de bouger sur le vêtement. Je recommande de coller ou coudre la batterie avant de faire le reste. Vous pouvez coller ou coudre quelque chose sous la batterie pour l’empêcher de tirer sur le vêtement, et de rebondir lorsque l'on bouge.<br />
<br />
Si vous voulez travailler sur du tissu fin, considérez bien votre choix ! Il est beacoup plus facile de travailler sur des pièces épaises de tissu non-élastique. Si vous voulez tout de même utiliser un tissu léger, choisissez judicieusement l'emplacement de la batterie. C'est la composant le plus lourd, donc placer le là ou il ne va pas trop déformer le vêtement. Dans ce cas, cousez ou coller quelque chose sous la batterie.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02a.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez la batterie et le LilyPad à votre veste<br />
|Step_Content='''Cousez le pétale + de l'alimentation à votre vêtement'''<br />
<br />
Coupez un file conducteur de 1m environ. Passez le dans l'aiguille, suffisamment pour que vous ne le perdiez pas facilement. Faites un nœud au bout du fil. Ne coupez pas le fils trop proche du nœud pour ne pas qu'il se défasse.<br />
<br />
En partant du dessous de vêtement vers le dessus, piquer l'aiguille dans le vêtement à coté du pétale + de l'alimentation, puis, depuis le dessus, pousser l'aiguille à travers. Le nœud au bout du fils bloqueras le fils dans le vêtement. Maintenant, faites un point dans le trou du pétale +. Faite le plusieurs fois, passant du dessous au dessus du vêtement, en passant dans le pétale + à chaque fois.<br />
<br />
Faites attention à cette couture, c'est la connexion la plus importante de votre projet.Soyez sur de bien faire contact entre l'alimentation et le fils, passez à travers le trou plusieurs fois (5 fois au minimum). Continuez à coudre jusqu'à ce que vous ne puissiez plus passer l'aiguille. Ne coupez pas le fils, continuez à l'étape suivante.<br />
<br />
'''Coudre de la batterie au LilyPad.'''<br />
On fois que la couture du petale + de la batterie est faite, faire de petits points sur le pétale + du LilyPad. J'ai utilisé une veste avec une doublure en polaire, et cousu seulement à l’intérieur de la doublure pour que les coutures ne soient pas visibles de l’extérieur.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02f.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02g.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02h.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Coudre le pétale + de votre LilyPad<br />
|Step_Content=Coudre le pétale + du LilyPad pour finir la connection.<br />
<br />
When you reach the LilyPad, sew the + petal down to the fabric with the conductive thread. Just like you were with the battery petal, you want to be extra careful to get a robust connection here. This stitching is making the electrical connection between your power supply and LilyPad. <br />
<br />
When you are done with this attachment, sew away from the LilyPad about an inch along your stitching, tie a knot, and cut your thread about an inch away from the knot so that your knot won't come untied.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02j.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02k.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Mettez de la colle à vêtement sur chacun de vos noeuds<br />
|Step_Content=Put fabric glue on each of your knots to keep them from unraveling.<br />
<br />
Une fois la colle sèche, couper les fils qui dépassent de chaque nœud.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03d.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Testez votre couture<br />
|Step_Content='''Measure the resistance of your stitching.'''<br />
Get out your multimeter and put it on the resistance measuring setting. Measure from power supply + to LilyPad + and power supply - to LilyPad -. If the resistance of either of these traces is greater than 10 ohms, reinforce your stitching with more conductive thread.<br />
<br />
Put a AAA battery into the power supply and flip the power supply switch to the on position. The red light on the power supply should turn on. If it doesn't and you're sure you flipped the switch, quickly remove the battery and check for a short between your + and - stitches. (Most likely there is a piece of thread that's touching both the - and + stitching somewhere.) You can test for a short between + and - by using the beeping continuity tester on your multimeter.<br />
<br />
Also check the resistance between the + and - stitching. If the resistance is less than 10K Ohms or so, you've got a mini-short (probably a fine conductive thread hair that is touching both + and -) that you need to find and correct.<br />
<br />
If the power supply does turn on, look at your LilyPad. It should blink quickly each time you press its switch. Once these connections are working properly, turn off the power supply and remove the battery. <br />
<br />
'''Insulate your power and ground stitching'''<br />
So, your jacket is now full of uninsulated conductive stitches. This is fine when a body is inside of it. A body will prevent sewn traces from contacting each other. But when the jacket is off of a person and you bend or fold it, traces will touch each other and short out. To fix this problem, cover your traces with puffy fabric paint (or another insulator like a satin stitch in regular thread). But, you don't want to cover traces until you're sure that everything works! So, use good judgment in when to coat traces.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04d.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez les clignotants en LEDs<br />
|Step_Content='''Sew in your left and right signals.'''<br />
<br />
Using the same techniques you used to sew the power supply to the LilyPad, attach all of the + petals of the lights for the left turn signal together and to a petal on the LilyPad (petal 9 for me) and all of the + petals for the right signal together and to another LilyPad petal (11 for me). Attach all of the - petals of the lights together and then to either the - petal on the LilyPad or another LilyPad petal (petal 10 for me). Refer back to my design sketches if any of this is confusing.<br />
<br />
{{Caution|Text=Remember to seal each of your knots with fabric glue to keep them from unraveling. Be careful to avoid shorts; don't let one sewn trace touch another. In this case, the - traces for the LEDs are all connected, but you want to make sure that the + traces for the left and right signals do not touch the - trace or each other.}}<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=Testez les clignotants<br />
|Step_Content=Load a program onto your LilyPad that blinks each turn signal to make sure all of your sewing is correct.<br />
<br />
Here's my test program: [[File:Turn signal code.pdf]]<br />
<br />
If your layout is the same as mine, you can just copy and paste this program into your Arduino window.<br />
<br />
{{Info|Text=If your turn signals don't work, use your multimeter (and the instructions from the last step) to test for shorts or bad connections and make sure that your program matches your physical layout.}}<br />
<br />
'''insulate your turn signal stitches'''<br />
Cover your traces with puffy fabric paint. Remember, you don't want to cover traces until you're sure that everything works! Use good judgment in when to coat traces.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05d.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05e.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_05=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05f.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Placez vos boutons de contrôle<br />
|Step_Content=Find a spot for your switches where they'll be easy to press when you're riding your bike. I mounted mine on the underside of my wrists. I found a good spot by trying out different places. Check out the photos to see what I mean.<br />
<br />
Once you've found a good position, push the legs of the switch through the fabric and bend them over on the inside of the fabric.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05g.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05h.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05i.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez les boutons<br />
|Step_Content=Sew your switches into the garment. Sew 1 leg to the switch input petal on the LilyPad and another leg, one that is diagonally across from the first , to ground or another LilyPad petal. I used petal 6 for the switch input on the left side and petal 12 for switch input on the right side. I used - for the - connection on the left side, but petal 4 for the - connection on the right side. Refer back to my design drawings if any of this is confusing.<br />
<br />
When you're done sewing, go back and reinforce the switch connections with glue. You don't want your switches to fall out of their stitching.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_06a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_06b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_06c.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez un simple LED sur la manche de chaque bras<br />
|Step_Content=These will give you essential feedback about which turn signal is on. They'll flash to tell you what the back of your jacket is doing, so make sure they're in a visible spot. Sew the + petals of each LED to a LilyPad petal and the - petals of each LED to the - side of the switch (the - trace you sewed in the last step). I used petal 5 for the LED + on the left side and petal 3 for the LED + on the right side. Again, refer back to my design drawings if any of this is confusing.<br />
<br />
As always, remember to glue and trim knots and be careful not to create any shorts.<br />
<br />
Once you sew both wrist LEDs, you're done with the sewing phase of the project! Now, on to programming...<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07e.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07f.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Programmez votre veste<br />
|Step_Content='''Decide on the behavior you want'''<br />
I wanted the left switch to turn on the left turn signal for 15 seconds or so, and the right switch to do the same thing for the right signal. Pressing a switch when the corresponding turn signal is on should turn the signal off. Pressing both switches at the same time should put the jacket into nighttime flashing mode. The wrist mounted LEDs should provide feedback about the current state of the jacket.<br />
<br />
Here's the code I wrote to get that behavior: [[File:Turn signal biking jacket.pdf]]<br />
<br />
'''Program your jacket'''<br />
To program your garment, copy and paste my code into an Arduino window and load it onto the LilyPad. You may have to make some small adjustments first depending on where you attached lights and switches. Play with delays to customize your blinking patterns.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=Allez Pédaler<br />
|Step_Content=Plug your battery back in and see if it works and...go biking!<br />
<br />
'''Insulate the rest of your traces'''<br />
<br />
Cover the rest of your traces with puffy fabric paint. Again, don't coat anything until you're sure it works.<br />
<br />
'''About washing'''<br />
<br />
Your creation is washable. Remove the battery and wash the garment by hand with a gentle detergent.<br />
<br />
Note: silver coated threads will corrode over time and their resistance will gradually increase with washing and wear. To limit the effects of corrosion, insulate and protect your traces with puffy fabric paint or some other insulator. You can also revive exposed corroded traces with silver polish. Try this on a non-visible area first to see what it does to your fabric!<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Notes}}<br />
|Notes=<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Status}}<br />
|Complete=Yes<br />
}}</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Translations:Turn_signal_biking_jacket/6/fr&diff=26651Translations:Turn signal biking jacket/6/fr2017-09-19T16:13:14Z<p>Pyro : Page créée avec « '''Conception esthétique et électrique de votre veste''' »</p>
<hr />
<div>'''Conception esthétique et électrique de votre veste'''</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Turn_signal_biking_jacket/fr&diff=26650Turn signal biking jacket/fr2017-09-19T16:00:07Z<p>Pyro : Page créée avec « Coudre le pétale + du LilyPad pour finir la connection. »</p>
<hr />
<div>{{ {{tntn|Tuto Details}}<br />
|SourceLanguage=en<br />
|Language=fr<br />
|IsTranslation=1<br />
|Type=Creation<br />
|Area=Electronics, Sport and Outside<br />
|Description=Ce tutoriel va vous montrer comment fabriquer une veste avec des clignotants pour indiquer ou vous allez tourner. On va utiliser du fil conducteur et des circuits electornique à coudre. Ainsi votre veste restera souple et lavable.<br />
|Difficulty=Medium<br />
|Cost=50<br />
|Currency=USD ($)<br />
|Duration=5<br />
|Duration-type=hour(s)<br />
|Licences=Attribution-ShareAlike (CC BY-SA)<br />
|Main_Picture=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Biking-jacket.jpg<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Introduction}}<br />
|Introduction=<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Materials}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_vest_supplies.jpg<br />
|Material=* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13342 LilyPad Arduino main board]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9873 FTDI connector]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11301 mini USB cable]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11259 LilyPad power supply]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10081 16 LilyPad LEDs]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/97 2 push button switches]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/retired/8549 a spool of 4-ply conductive thread]<br />
* un vêtement ou un morceau de tissu<br />
<br />
''information: J'ai concu le LilyPad, donc je vais gagner quelque $ si vous en achetez un''<br />
|Tools=* un multimetre digital, avec test de continuité avec bipper<br />
* une ou deux aiguille<br />
* un marquer ou une craie<br />
* puffy fabric paint<br />
* de la colle pour vêtements<br />
* un metre <br />
* une paire de ciseaux<br />
* scotch double face (optionnel)<br />
* une machine à coudre (optionnel)<br />
|Tuto_Attachments={{ {{tntn|Tuto Attachments}}<br />
|Attachment=Turn signal code.pdf<br />
}}{{ {{tntn|Tuto Attachments}}<br />
|Attachment=Turn signal biking jacket.pdf<br />
}}<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Separator}}}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01c.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Conception<br />
|Step_Content='''Plan the aesthetic and electrical layout of your piece'''<br />
<br />
Decidez ou chaque composent va se placer et trouver comment vous allez les coudre ensemble, avec le moins possible de fils qui se croissent. Faites un schéma pour pouvoir vous y référer pendant votre travail. la photo ci-contre montre le schéma pour ma veste. Le point pour l'alimentation (+) est en rouge, la masse (-) en noir, les LEDs en vert et les boutons en violet.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=Note importante à propos de l'alimentation<br />
|Step_Content=Dans votre conception, gardez l'alimentation et le LilyPad proche l'un de l'autre. S'ils sont trop loin, vous pouvez avoir des problèmes avec le LilyPad qui redémarre, ou qui ne marche pas du tout.<br />
<br />
Pourquoi ? LEs fils conducteurs ont une résistance non négligeable. (Le fil de SparkFun qui va avec le LilyPad a une resistance de 14 ohms pour 30 cm environ.) Selon les modules que vous utilisez, LilyPad peux consommer jusqu'à 50mA. Selon la loi de Ohm, la tension chute à travers un conducteur, et la valeur de tension perdu est égale à la résistance du matériau fois la valeur du courant qui le traverse.<br />
<br />
Par exemple, si votre LilyPad est à 30cm de votre alimentation, le résistance totale est d'environ 28 Ohms (14 Ohms du pôle négatif au LilyPad + 14 Ohms pour relier le pôle positif). Cela signifie que l'on va avoir une chute de 1,4 Volts (28 Ohms * 0,05A). Donc si on a une alimentation de 5V, le LilyPad va recevoir seulement 3.6 Volts. Si la tension descent sous 3.3 Volts environ, le LilyPad va redémarrer. Il faut donc une resistance de 10 Ohms maximum entre l'alimentation et le LilyPad. Concevez les distances en accord avec cela. <br />
<br />
Si tout cela vous prête à confusion, ne vous inquiétez pas, gardez simplement le LilyPad et l'alimentation proche l'un de l'autre.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01da.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01db.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Transférez le schéma sur le vêtement<br />
|Step_Content=Utiliser la craie ou un marker non-permanent pour reproduire votre schéma sur le vêtement. Si vous le souhaitez, utilisez un mètre pour être sur que tout est droit et symétrique.<br />
<br />
Utiliser du scotch double face pour attacher temporairement les composants au vêtement. Cela vous donnera un bon apercu de ce à quoi va ressembler votre pièce finale. Cela maintiendra aussi tout en place pendant que vous cousez, tant que le scotch colle.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02d.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02i.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Préparation avant de coudre<br />
|Step_Content='''D'abord, coupez les fils sortant derrière l'alimentation'''<br />
<br />
Prenez l'alimentation de votre LilyPad et couper les parties métalliques qui dépassent sur le dessous. Des petites pinces comme celle sur la photo sont idéales pour ça, mais vous pouvez aussi utiliser des ciseaux.<br />
<br />
'''Fixez la batterie sur le vêtement'''<br />
<br />
On veut généralement faire tout ce que l'on peut pour empêcher l’alimentation de bouger sur le vêtement. Je recommande de coller ou coudre la batterie avant de faire le reste. Vous pouvez coller ou coudre quelque chose sous la batterie pour l’empêcher de tirer sur le vêtement, et de rebondir lorsque l'on bouge.<br />
<br />
Si vous voulez travailler sur du tissu fin, considérez bien votre choix ! Il est beacoup plus facile de travailler sur des pièces épaises de tissu non-élastique. Si vous voulez tout de même utiliser un tissu léger, choisissez judicieusement l'emplacement de la batterie. C'est la composant le plus lourd, donc placer le là ou il ne va pas trop déformer le vêtement. Dans ce cas, cousez ou coller quelque chose sous la batterie.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02a.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez la batterie et le LilyPad à votre veste<br />
|Step_Content='''Cousez le pétale + de l'alimentation à votre vêtement'''<br />
<br />
Coupez un file conducteur de 1m environ. Passez le dans l'aiguille, suffisamment pour que vous ne le perdiez pas facilement. Faites un nœud au bout du fil. Ne coupez pas le fils trop proche du nœud pour ne pas qu'il se défasse.<br />
<br />
En partant du dessous de vêtement vers le dessus, piquer l'aiguille dans le vêtement à coté du pétale + de l'alimentation, puis, depuis le dessus, pousser l'aiguille à travers. Le nœud au bout du fils bloqueras le fils dans le vêtement. Maintenant, faites un point dans le trou du pétale +. Faite le plusieurs fois, passant du dessous au dessus du vêtement, en passant dans le pétale + à chaque fois.<br />
<br />
Faites attention à cette couture, c'est la connexion la plus importante de votre projet.Soyez sur de bien faire contact entre l'alimentation et le fils, passez à travers le trou plusieurs fois (5 fois au minimum). Continuez à coudre jusqu'à ce que vous ne puissiez plus passer l'aiguille. Ne coupez pas le fils, continuez à l'étape suivante.<br />
<br />
'''Coudre de la batterie au LilyPad.'''<br />
On fois que la couture du petale + de la batterie est faite, faire de petits points sur le pétale + du LilyPad. J'ai utilisé une veste avec une doublure en polaire, et cousu seulement à l’intérieur de la doublure pour que les coutures ne soient pas visibles de l’extérieur.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02f.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02g.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02h.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Coudre le pétale + de votre LilyPad<br />
|Step_Content=Coudre le pétale + du LilyPad pour finir la connection.<br />
<br />
When you reach the LilyPad, sew the + petal down to the fabric with the conductive thread. Just like you were with the battery petal, you want to be extra careful to get a robust connection here. This stitching is making the electrical connection between your power supply and LilyPad. <br />
<br />
When you are done with this attachment, sew away from the LilyPad about an inch along your stitching, tie a knot, and cut your thread about an inch away from the knot so that your knot won't come untied.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02j.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02k.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Mettez de la colle à vêtement sur chacun de vos noeuds<br />
|Step_Content=Put fabric glue on each of your knots to keep them from unraveling.<br />
<br />
Une fois la colle sèche, couper les fils qui dépassent de chaque nœud.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03d.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Testez votre couture<br />
|Step_Content='''Measure the resistance of your stitching.'''<br />
Get out your multimeter and put it on the resistance measuring setting. Measure from power supply + to LilyPad + and power supply - to LilyPad -. If the resistance of either of these traces is greater than 10 ohms, reinforce your stitching with more conductive thread.<br />
<br />
Put a AAA battery into the power supply and flip the power supply switch to the on position. The red light on the power supply should turn on. If it doesn't and you're sure you flipped the switch, quickly remove the battery and check for a short between your + and - stitches. (Most likely there is a piece of thread that's touching both the - and + stitching somewhere.) You can test for a short between + and - by using the beeping continuity tester on your multimeter.<br />
<br />
Also check the resistance between the + and - stitching. If the resistance is less than 10K Ohms or so, you've got a mini-short (probably a fine conductive thread hair that is touching both + and -) that you need to find and correct.<br />
<br />
If the power supply does turn on, look at your LilyPad. It should blink quickly each time you press its switch. Once these connections are working properly, turn off the power supply and remove the battery. <br />
<br />
'''Insulate your power and ground stitching'''<br />
So, your jacket is now full of uninsulated conductive stitches. This is fine when a body is inside of it. A body will prevent sewn traces from contacting each other. But when the jacket is off of a person and you bend or fold it, traces will touch each other and short out. To fix this problem, cover your traces with puffy fabric paint (or another insulator like a satin stitch in regular thread). But, you don't want to cover traces until you're sure that everything works! So, use good judgment in when to coat traces.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04d.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez les clignotants en LEDs<br />
|Step_Content='''Sew in your left and right signals.'''<br />
<br />
Using the same techniques you used to sew the power supply to the LilyPad, attach all of the + petals of the lights for the left turn signal together and to a petal on the LilyPad (petal 9 for me) and all of the + petals for the right signal together and to another LilyPad petal (11 for me). Attach all of the - petals of the lights together and then to either the - petal on the LilyPad or another LilyPad petal (petal 10 for me). Refer back to my design sketches if any of this is confusing.<br />
<br />
{{Caution|Text=Remember to seal each of your knots with fabric glue to keep them from unraveling. Be careful to avoid shorts; don't let one sewn trace touch another. In this case, the - traces for the LEDs are all connected, but you want to make sure that the + traces for the left and right signals do not touch the - trace or each other.}}<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=Testez les clignotants<br />
|Step_Content=Load a program onto your LilyPad that blinks each turn signal to make sure all of your sewing is correct.<br />
<br />
Here's my test program: [[File:Turn signal code.pdf]]<br />
<br />
If your layout is the same as mine, you can just copy and paste this program into your Arduino window.<br />
<br />
{{Info|Text=If your turn signals don't work, use your multimeter (and the instructions from the last step) to test for shorts or bad connections and make sure that your program matches your physical layout.}}<br />
<br />
'''insulate your turn signal stitches'''<br />
Cover your traces with puffy fabric paint. Remember, you don't want to cover traces until you're sure that everything works! Use good judgment in when to coat traces.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05d.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05e.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_05=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05f.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Placez vos boutons de contrôle<br />
|Step_Content=Find a spot for your switches where they'll be easy to press when you're riding your bike. I mounted mine on the underside of my wrists. I found a good spot by trying out different places. Check out the photos to see what I mean.<br />
<br />
Once you've found a good position, push the legs of the switch through the fabric and bend them over on the inside of the fabric.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05g.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05h.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05i.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez les boutons<br />
|Step_Content=Sew your switches into the garment. Sew 1 leg to the switch input petal on the LilyPad and another leg, one that is diagonally across from the first , to ground or another LilyPad petal. I used petal 6 for the switch input on the left side and petal 12 for switch input on the right side. I used - for the - connection on the left side, but petal 4 for the - connection on the right side. Refer back to my design drawings if any of this is confusing.<br />
<br />
When you're done sewing, go back and reinforce the switch connections with glue. You don't want your switches to fall out of their stitching.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_06a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_06b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_06c.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez un simple LED sur la manche de chaque bras<br />
|Step_Content=These will give you essential feedback about which turn signal is on. They'll flash to tell you what the back of your jacket is doing, so make sure they're in a visible spot. Sew the + petals of each LED to a LilyPad petal and the - petals of each LED to the - side of the switch (the - trace you sewed in the last step). I used petal 5 for the LED + on the left side and petal 3 for the LED + on the right side. Again, refer back to my design drawings if any of this is confusing.<br />
<br />
As always, remember to glue and trim knots and be careful not to create any shorts.<br />
<br />
Once you sew both wrist LEDs, you're done with the sewing phase of the project! Now, on to programming...<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07e.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07f.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Programmez votre veste<br />
|Step_Content='''Decide on the behavior you want'''<br />
I wanted the left switch to turn on the left turn signal for 15 seconds or so, and the right switch to do the same thing for the right signal. Pressing a switch when the corresponding turn signal is on should turn the signal off. Pressing both switches at the same time should put the jacket into nighttime flashing mode. The wrist mounted LEDs should provide feedback about the current state of the jacket.<br />
<br />
Here's the code I wrote to get that behavior: [[File:Turn signal biking jacket.pdf]]<br />
<br />
'''Program your jacket'''<br />
To program your garment, copy and paste my code into an Arduino window and load it onto the LilyPad. You may have to make some small adjustments first depending on where you attached lights and switches. Play with delays to customize your blinking patterns.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=Allez Pédaler<br />
|Step_Content=Plug your battery back in and see if it works and...go biking!<br />
<br />
'''Insulate the rest of your traces'''<br />
<br />
Cover the rest of your traces with puffy fabric paint. Again, don't coat anything until you're sure it works.<br />
<br />
'''About washing'''<br />
<br />
Your creation is washable. Remove the battery and wash the garment by hand with a gentle detergent.<br />
<br />
Note: silver coated threads will corrode over time and their resistance will gradually increase with washing and wear. To limit the effects of corrosion, insulate and protect your traces with puffy fabric paint or some other insulator. You can also revive exposed corroded traces with silver polish. Try this on a non-visible area first to see what it does to your fabric!<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Notes}}<br />
|Notes=<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Status}}<br />
|Complete=Yes<br />
}}</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Translations:Turn_signal_biking_jacket/29/fr&diff=26649Translations:Turn signal biking jacket/29/fr2017-09-19T16:00:05Z<p>Pyro : Page créée avec « Coudre le pétale + du LilyPad pour finir la connection. »</p>
<hr />
<div>Coudre le pétale + du LilyPad pour finir la connection.</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Turn_signal_biking_jacket/fr&diff=26648Turn signal biking jacket/fr2017-09-19T15:59:42Z<p>Pyro : </p>
<hr />
<div>{{ {{tntn|Tuto Details}}<br />
|SourceLanguage=en<br />
|Language=fr<br />
|IsTranslation=1<br />
|Type=Creation<br />
|Area=Electronics, Sport and Outside<br />
|Description=Ce tutoriel va vous montrer comment fabriquer une veste avec des clignotants pour indiquer ou vous allez tourner. On va utiliser du fil conducteur et des circuits electornique à coudre. Ainsi votre veste restera souple et lavable.<br />
|Difficulty=Medium<br />
|Cost=50<br />
|Currency=USD ($)<br />
|Duration=5<br />
|Duration-type=hour(s)<br />
|Licences=Attribution-ShareAlike (CC BY-SA)<br />
|Main_Picture=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Biking-jacket.jpg<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Introduction}}<br />
|Introduction=<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Materials}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_vest_supplies.jpg<br />
|Material=* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13342 LilyPad Arduino main board]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9873 FTDI connector]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11301 mini USB cable]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11259 LilyPad power supply]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10081 16 LilyPad LEDs]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/97 2 push button switches]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/retired/8549 a spool of 4-ply conductive thread]<br />
* un vêtement ou un morceau de tissu<br />
<br />
''information: J'ai concu le LilyPad, donc je vais gagner quelque $ si vous en achetez un''<br />
|Tools=* un multimetre digital, avec test de continuité avec bipper<br />
* une ou deux aiguille<br />
* un marquer ou une craie<br />
* puffy fabric paint<br />
* de la colle pour vêtements<br />
* un metre <br />
* une paire de ciseaux<br />
* scotch double face (optionnel)<br />
* une machine à coudre (optionnel)<br />
|Tuto_Attachments={{ {{tntn|Tuto Attachments}}<br />
|Attachment=Turn signal code.pdf<br />
}}{{ {{tntn|Tuto Attachments}}<br />
|Attachment=Turn signal biking jacket.pdf<br />
}}<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Separator}}}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01c.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Conception<br />
|Step_Content='''Plan the aesthetic and electrical layout of your piece'''<br />
<br />
Decidez ou chaque composent va se placer et trouver comment vous allez les coudre ensemble, avec le moins possible de fils qui se croissent. Faites un schéma pour pouvoir vous y référer pendant votre travail. la photo ci-contre montre le schéma pour ma veste. Le point pour l'alimentation (+) est en rouge, la masse (-) en noir, les LEDs en vert et les boutons en violet.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=Note importante à propos de l'alimentation<br />
|Step_Content=Dans votre conception, gardez l'alimentation et le LilyPad proche l'un de l'autre. S'ils sont trop loin, vous pouvez avoir des problèmes avec le LilyPad qui redémarre, ou qui ne marche pas du tout.<br />
<br />
Pourquoi ? LEs fils conducteurs ont une résistance non négligeable. (Le fil de SparkFun qui va avec le LilyPad a une resistance de 14 ohms pour 30 cm environ.) Selon les modules que vous utilisez, LilyPad peux consommer jusqu'à 50mA. Selon la loi de Ohm, la tension chute à travers un conducteur, et la valeur de tension perdu est égale à la résistance du matériau fois la valeur du courant qui le traverse.<br />
<br />
Par exemple, si votre LilyPad est à 30cm de votre alimentation, le résistance totale est d'environ 28 Ohms (14 Ohms du pôle négatif au LilyPad + 14 Ohms pour relier le pôle positif). Cela signifie que l'on va avoir une chute de 1,4 Volts (28 Ohms * 0,05A). Donc si on a une alimentation de 5V, le LilyPad va recevoir seulement 3.6 Volts. Si la tension descent sous 3.3 Volts environ, le LilyPad va redémarrer. Il faut donc une resistance de 10 Ohms maximum entre l'alimentation et le LilyPad. Concevez les distances en accord avec cela. <br />
<br />
Si tout cela vous prête à confusion, ne vous inquiétez pas, gardez simplement le LilyPad et l'alimentation proche l'un de l'autre.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01da.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01db.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Transférez le schéma sur le vêtement<br />
|Step_Content=Utiliser la craie ou un marker non-permanent pour reproduire votre schéma sur le vêtement. Si vous le souhaitez, utilisez un mètre pour être sur que tout est droit et symétrique.<br />
<br />
Utiliser du scotch double face pour attacher temporairement les composants au vêtement. Cela vous donnera un bon apercu de ce à quoi va ressembler votre pièce finale. Cela maintiendra aussi tout en place pendant que vous cousez, tant que le scotch colle.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02d.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02i.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Préparation avant de coudre<br />
|Step_Content='''D'abord, coupez les fils sortant derrière l'alimentation'''<br />
<br />
Prenez l'alimentation de votre LilyPad et couper les parties métalliques qui dépassent sur le dessous. Des petites pinces comme celle sur la photo sont idéales pour ça, mais vous pouvez aussi utiliser des ciseaux.<br />
<br />
'''Fixez la batterie sur le vêtement'''<br />
<br />
On veut généralement faire tout ce que l'on peut pour empêcher l’alimentation de bouger sur le vêtement. Je recommande de coller ou coudre la batterie avant de faire le reste. Vous pouvez coller ou coudre quelque chose sous la batterie pour l’empêcher de tirer sur le vêtement, et de rebondir lorsque l'on bouge.<br />
<br />
Si vous voulez travailler sur du tissu fin, considérez bien votre choix ! Il est beacoup plus facile de travailler sur des pièces épaises de tissu non-élastique. Si vous voulez tout de même utiliser un tissu léger, choisissez judicieusement l'emplacement de la batterie. C'est la composant le plus lourd, donc placer le là ou il ne va pas trop déformer le vêtement. Dans ce cas, cousez ou coller quelque chose sous la batterie.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02a.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez la batterie et le LilyPad à votre veste<br />
|Step_Content='''Cousez le pétale + de l'alimentation à votre vêtement'''<br />
<br />
Coupez un file conducteur de 1m environ. Passez le dans l'aiguille, suffisamment pour que vous ne le perdiez pas facilement. Faites un nœud au bout du fil. Ne coupez pas le fils trop proche du nœud pour ne pas qu'il se défasse.<br />
<br />
En partant du dessous de vêtement vers le dessus, piquer l'aiguille dans le vêtement à coté du pétale + de l'alimentation, puis, depuis le dessus, pousser l'aiguille à travers. Le nœud au bout du fils bloqueras le fils dans le vêtement. Maintenant, faites un point dans le trou du pétale +. Faite le plusieurs fois, passant du dessous au dessus du vêtement, en passant dans le pétale + à chaque fois.<br />
<br />
Faites attention à cette couture, c'est la connexion la plus importante de votre projet.Soyez sur de bien faire contact entre l'alimentation et le fils, passez à travers le trou plusieurs fois (5 fois au minimum). Continuez à coudre jusqu'à ce que vous ne puissiez plus passer l'aiguille. Ne coupez pas le fils, continuez à l'étape suivante.<br />
<br />
'''Coudre de la batterie au LilyPad.'''<br />
On fois que la couture du petale + de la batterie est faite, faire de petits points sur le pétale + du LilyPad. J'ai utilisé une veste avec une doublure en polaire, et cousu seulement à l’intérieur de la doublure pour que les coutures ne soient pas visibles de l’extérieur.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02f.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02g.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02h.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Coudre le pétale + de votre LilyPad<br />
|Step_Content=Sew the + petal of your LilyPad down, finishing the connection.<br />
<br />
When you reach the LilyPad, sew the + petal down to the fabric with the conductive thread. Just like you were with the battery petal, you want to be extra careful to get a robust connection here. This stitching is making the electrical connection between your power supply and LilyPad. <br />
<br />
When you are done with this attachment, sew away from the LilyPad about an inch along your stitching, tie a knot, and cut your thread about an inch away from the knot so that your knot won't come untied.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02j.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02k.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Mettez de la colle à vêtement sur chacun de vos noeuds<br />
|Step_Content=Put fabric glue on each of your knots to keep them from unraveling.<br />
<br />
Une fois la colle sèche, couper les fils qui dépassent de chaque nœud.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03d.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Testez votre couture<br />
|Step_Content='''Measure the resistance of your stitching.'''<br />
Get out your multimeter and put it on the resistance measuring setting. Measure from power supply + to LilyPad + and power supply - to LilyPad -. If the resistance of either of these traces is greater than 10 ohms, reinforce your stitching with more conductive thread.<br />
<br />
Put a AAA battery into the power supply and flip the power supply switch to the on position. The red light on the power supply should turn on. If it doesn't and you're sure you flipped the switch, quickly remove the battery and check for a short between your + and - stitches. (Most likely there is a piece of thread that's touching both the - and + stitching somewhere.) You can test for a short between + and - by using the beeping continuity tester on your multimeter.<br />
<br />
Also check the resistance between the + and - stitching. If the resistance is less than 10K Ohms or so, you've got a mini-short (probably a fine conductive thread hair that is touching both + and -) that you need to find and correct.<br />
<br />
If the power supply does turn on, look at your LilyPad. It should blink quickly each time you press its switch. Once these connections are working properly, turn off the power supply and remove the battery. <br />
<br />
'''Insulate your power and ground stitching'''<br />
So, your jacket is now full of uninsulated conductive stitches. This is fine when a body is inside of it. A body will prevent sewn traces from contacting each other. But when the jacket is off of a person and you bend or fold it, traces will touch each other and short out. To fix this problem, cover your traces with puffy fabric paint (or another insulator like a satin stitch in regular thread). But, you don't want to cover traces until you're sure that everything works! So, use good judgment in when to coat traces.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04d.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez les clignotants en LEDs<br />
|Step_Content='''Sew in your left and right signals.'''<br />
<br />
Using the same techniques you used to sew the power supply to the LilyPad, attach all of the + petals of the lights for the left turn signal together and to a petal on the LilyPad (petal 9 for me) and all of the + petals for the right signal together and to another LilyPad petal (11 for me). Attach all of the - petals of the lights together and then to either the - petal on the LilyPad or another LilyPad petal (petal 10 for me). Refer back to my design sketches if any of this is confusing.<br />
<br />
{{Caution|Text=Remember to seal each of your knots with fabric glue to keep them from unraveling. Be careful to avoid shorts; don't let one sewn trace touch another. In this case, the - traces for the LEDs are all connected, but you want to make sure that the + traces for the left and right signals do not touch the - trace or each other.}}<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=Testez les clignotants<br />
|Step_Content=Load a program onto your LilyPad that blinks each turn signal to make sure all of your sewing is correct.<br />
<br />
Here's my test program: [[File:Turn signal code.pdf]]<br />
<br />
If your layout is the same as mine, you can just copy and paste this program into your Arduino window.<br />
<br />
{{Info|Text=If your turn signals don't work, use your multimeter (and the instructions from the last step) to test for shorts or bad connections and make sure that your program matches your physical layout.}}<br />
<br />
'''insulate your turn signal stitches'''<br />
Cover your traces with puffy fabric paint. Remember, you don't want to cover traces until you're sure that everything works! Use good judgment in when to coat traces.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05d.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05e.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_05=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05f.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Placez vos boutons de contrôle<br />
|Step_Content=Find a spot for your switches where they'll be easy to press when you're riding your bike. I mounted mine on the underside of my wrists. I found a good spot by trying out different places. Check out the photos to see what I mean.<br />
<br />
Once you've found a good position, push the legs of the switch through the fabric and bend them over on the inside of the fabric.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05g.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05h.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05i.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez les boutons<br />
|Step_Content=Sew your switches into the garment. Sew 1 leg to the switch input petal on the LilyPad and another leg, one that is diagonally across from the first , to ground or another LilyPad petal. I used petal 6 for the switch input on the left side and petal 12 for switch input on the right side. I used - for the - connection on the left side, but petal 4 for the - connection on the right side. Refer back to my design drawings if any of this is confusing.<br />
<br />
When you're done sewing, go back and reinforce the switch connections with glue. You don't want your switches to fall out of their stitching.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_06a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_06b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_06c.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez un simple LED sur la manche de chaque bras<br />
|Step_Content=These will give you essential feedback about which turn signal is on. They'll flash to tell you what the back of your jacket is doing, so make sure they're in a visible spot. Sew the + petals of each LED to a LilyPad petal and the - petals of each LED to the - side of the switch (the - trace you sewed in the last step). I used petal 5 for the LED + on the left side and petal 3 for the LED + on the right side. Again, refer back to my design drawings if any of this is confusing.<br />
<br />
As always, remember to glue and trim knots and be careful not to create any shorts.<br />
<br />
Once you sew both wrist LEDs, you're done with the sewing phase of the project! Now, on to programming...<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07e.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07f.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Programmez votre veste<br />
|Step_Content='''Decide on the behavior you want'''<br />
I wanted the left switch to turn on the left turn signal for 15 seconds or so, and the right switch to do the same thing for the right signal. Pressing a switch when the corresponding turn signal is on should turn the signal off. Pressing both switches at the same time should put the jacket into nighttime flashing mode. The wrist mounted LEDs should provide feedback about the current state of the jacket.<br />
<br />
Here's the code I wrote to get that behavior: [[File:Turn signal biking jacket.pdf]]<br />
<br />
'''Program your jacket'''<br />
To program your garment, copy and paste my code into an Arduino window and load it onto the LilyPad. You may have to make some small adjustments first depending on where you attached lights and switches. Play with delays to customize your blinking patterns.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=Allez Pédaler<br />
|Step_Content=Plug your battery back in and see if it works and...go biking!<br />
<br />
'''Insulate the rest of your traces'''<br />
<br />
Cover the rest of your traces with puffy fabric paint. Again, don't coat anything until you're sure it works.<br />
<br />
'''About washing'''<br />
<br />
Your creation is washable. Remove the battery and wash the garment by hand with a gentle detergent.<br />
<br />
Note: silver coated threads will corrode over time and their resistance will gradually increase with washing and wear. To limit the effects of corrosion, insulate and protect your traces with puffy fabric paint or some other insulator. You can also revive exposed corroded traces with silver polish. Try this on a non-visible area first to see what it does to your fabric!<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Notes}}<br />
|Notes=<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Status}}<br />
|Complete=Yes<br />
}}</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Translations:Turn_signal_biking_jacket/28/fr&diff=26647Translations:Turn signal biking jacket/28/fr2017-09-19T15:59:41Z<p>Pyro : </p>
<hr />
<div>Coudre le pétale + de votre LilyPad</div>Pyrohttps://wikifab.org/w/index.php?title=Turn_signal_biking_jacket/fr&diff=26646Turn signal biking jacket/fr2017-09-19T15:59:13Z<p>Pyro : </p>
<hr />
<div>{{ {{tntn|Tuto Details}}<br />
|SourceLanguage=en<br />
|Language=fr<br />
|IsTranslation=1<br />
|Type=Creation<br />
|Area=Electronics, Sport and Outside<br />
|Description=Ce tutoriel va vous montrer comment fabriquer une veste avec des clignotants pour indiquer ou vous allez tourner. On va utiliser du fil conducteur et des circuits electornique à coudre. Ainsi votre veste restera souple et lavable.<br />
|Difficulty=Medium<br />
|Cost=50<br />
|Currency=USD ($)<br />
|Duration=5<br />
|Duration-type=hour(s)<br />
|Licences=Attribution-ShareAlike (CC BY-SA)<br />
|Main_Picture=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Biking-jacket.jpg<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Introduction}}<br />
|Introduction=<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Materials}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_vest_supplies.jpg<br />
|Material=* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13342 LilyPad Arduino main board]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9873 FTDI connector]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11301 mini USB cable]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11259 LilyPad power supply]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10081 16 LilyPad LEDs]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/97 2 push button switches]<br />
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/products/retired/8549 a spool of 4-ply conductive thread]<br />
* un vêtement ou un morceau de tissu<br />
<br />
''information: J'ai concu le LilyPad, donc je vais gagner quelque $ si vous en achetez un''<br />
|Tools=* un multimetre digital, avec test de continuité avec bipper<br />
* une ou deux aiguille<br />
* un marquer ou une craie<br />
* puffy fabric paint<br />
* de la colle pour vêtements<br />
* un metre <br />
* une paire de ciseaux<br />
* scotch double face (optionnel)<br />
* une machine à coudre (optionnel)<br />
|Tuto_Attachments={{ {{tntn|Tuto Attachments}}<br />
|Attachment=Turn signal code.pdf<br />
}}{{ {{tntn|Tuto Attachments}}<br />
|Attachment=Turn signal biking jacket.pdf<br />
}}<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Separator}}}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01c.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Conception<br />
|Step_Content='''Plan the aesthetic and electrical layout of your piece'''<br />
<br />
Decidez ou chaque composent va se placer et trouver comment vous allez les coudre ensemble, avec le moins possible de fils qui se croissent. Faites un schéma pour pouvoir vous y référer pendant votre travail. la photo ci-contre montre le schéma pour ma veste. Le point pour l'alimentation (+) est en rouge, la masse (-) en noir, les LEDs en vert et les boutons en violet.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=Note importante à propos de l'alimentation<br />
|Step_Content=Dans votre conception, gardez l'alimentation et le LilyPad proche l'un de l'autre. S'ils sont trop loin, vous pouvez avoir des problèmes avec le LilyPad qui redémarre, ou qui ne marche pas du tout.<br />
<br />
Pourquoi ? LEs fils conducteurs ont une résistance non négligeable. (Le fil de SparkFun qui va avec le LilyPad a une resistance de 14 ohms pour 30 cm environ.) Selon les modules que vous utilisez, LilyPad peux consommer jusqu'à 50mA. Selon la loi de Ohm, la tension chute à travers un conducteur, et la valeur de tension perdu est égale à la résistance du matériau fois la valeur du courant qui le traverse.<br />
<br />
Par exemple, si votre LilyPad est à 30cm de votre alimentation, le résistance totale est d'environ 28 Ohms (14 Ohms du pôle négatif au LilyPad + 14 Ohms pour relier le pôle positif). Cela signifie que l'on va avoir une chute de 1,4 Volts (28 Ohms * 0,05A). Donc si on a une alimentation de 5V, le LilyPad va recevoir seulement 3.6 Volts. Si la tension descent sous 3.3 Volts environ, le LilyPad va redémarrer. Il faut donc une resistance de 10 Ohms maximum entre l'alimentation et le LilyPad. Concevez les distances en accord avec cela. <br />
<br />
Si tout cela vous prête à confusion, ne vous inquiétez pas, gardez simplement le LilyPad et l'alimentation proche l'un de l'autre.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01da.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_01db.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Transférez le schéma sur le vêtement<br />
|Step_Content=Utiliser la craie ou un marker non-permanent pour reproduire votre schéma sur le vêtement. Si vous le souhaitez, utilisez un mètre pour être sur que tout est droit et symétrique.<br />
<br />
Utiliser du scotch double face pour attacher temporairement les composants au vêtement. Cela vous donnera un bon apercu de ce à quoi va ressembler votre pièce finale. Cela maintiendra aussi tout en place pendant que vous cousez, tant que le scotch colle.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02d.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02i.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Préparation avant de coudre<br />
|Step_Content='''D'abord, coupez les fils sortant derrière l'alimentation'''<br />
<br />
Prenez l'alimentation de votre LilyPad et couper les parties métalliques qui dépassent sur le dessous. Des petites pinces comme celle sur la photo sont idéales pour ça, mais vous pouvez aussi utiliser des ciseaux.<br />
<br />
'''Fixez la batterie sur le vêtement'''<br />
<br />
On veut généralement faire tout ce que l'on peut pour empêcher l’alimentation de bouger sur le vêtement. Je recommande de coller ou coudre la batterie avant de faire le reste. Vous pouvez coller ou coudre quelque chose sous la batterie pour l’empêcher de tirer sur le vêtement, et de rebondir lorsque l'on bouge.<br />
<br />
Si vous voulez travailler sur du tissu fin, considérez bien votre choix ! Il est beacoup plus facile de travailler sur des pièces épaises de tissu non-élastique. Si vous voulez tout de même utiliser un tissu léger, choisissez judicieusement l'emplacement de la batterie. C'est la composant le plus lourd, donc placer le là ou il ne va pas trop déformer le vêtement. Dans ce cas, cousez ou coller quelque chose sous la batterie.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02a.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez la batterie et le LilyPad à votre veste<br />
|Step_Content='''Cousez le pétale + de l'alimentation à votre vêtement'''<br />
<br />
Coupez un file conducteur de 1m environ. Passez le dans l'aiguille, suffisamment pour que vous ne le perdiez pas facilement. Faites un nœud au bout du fil. Ne coupez pas le fils trop proche du nœud pour ne pas qu'il se défasse.<br />
<br />
En partant du dessous de vêtement vers le dessus, piquer l'aiguille dans le vêtement à coté du pétale + de l'alimentation, puis, depuis le dessus, pousser l'aiguille à travers. Le nœud au bout du fils bloqueras le fils dans le vêtement. Maintenant, faites un point dans le trou du pétale +. Faite le plusieurs fois, passant du dessous au dessus du vêtement, en passant dans le pétale + à chaque fois.<br />
<br />
Faites attention à cette couture, c'est la connexion la plus importante de votre projet.Soyez sur de bien faire contact entre l'alimentation et le fils, passez à travers le trou plusieurs fois (5 fois au minimum). Continuez à coudre jusqu'à ce que vous ne puissiez plus passer l'aiguille. Ne coupez pas le fils, continuez à l'étape suivante.<br />
<br />
'''Coudre de la batterie au LilyPad.'''<br />
On fois que la couture du petale + de la batterie est faite, faire de petits points sur le pétale + du LilyPad. J'ai utilisé une veste avec une doublure en polaire, et cousu seulement à l’intérieur de la doublure pour que les coutures ne soient pas visibles de l’extérieur.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02f.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02g.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02h.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez le pétale + de votre LilyPad<br />
|Step_Content=Sew the + petal of your LilyPad down, finishing the connection.<br />
<br />
When you reach the LilyPad, sew the + petal down to the fabric with the conductive thread. Just like you were with the battery petal, you want to be extra careful to get a robust connection here. This stitching is making the electrical connection between your power supply and LilyPad. <br />
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When you are done with this attachment, sew away from the LilyPad about an inch along your stitching, tie a knot, and cut your thread about an inch away from the knot so that your knot won't come untied.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02j.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_02k.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Mettez de la colle à vêtement sur chacun de vos noeuds<br />
|Step_Content=Put fabric glue on each of your knots to keep them from unraveling.<br />
<br />
Une fois la colle sèche, couper les fils qui dépassent de chaque nœud.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_03d.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Testez votre couture<br />
|Step_Content='''Measure the resistance of your stitching.'''<br />
Get out your multimeter and put it on the resistance measuring setting. Measure from power supply + to LilyPad + and power supply - to LilyPad -. If the resistance of either of these traces is greater than 10 ohms, reinforce your stitching with more conductive thread.<br />
<br />
Put a AAA battery into the power supply and flip the power supply switch to the on position. The red light on the power supply should turn on. If it doesn't and you're sure you flipped the switch, quickly remove the battery and check for a short between your + and - stitches. (Most likely there is a piece of thread that's touching both the - and + stitching somewhere.) You can test for a short between + and - by using the beeping continuity tester on your multimeter.<br />
<br />
Also check the resistance between the + and - stitching. If the resistance is less than 10K Ohms or so, you've got a mini-short (probably a fine conductive thread hair that is touching both + and -) that you need to find and correct.<br />
<br />
If the power supply does turn on, look at your LilyPad. It should blink quickly each time you press its switch. Once these connections are working properly, turn off the power supply and remove the battery. <br />
<br />
'''Insulate your power and ground stitching'''<br />
So, your jacket is now full of uninsulated conductive stitches. This is fine when a body is inside of it. A body will prevent sewn traces from contacting each other. But when the jacket is off of a person and you bend or fold it, traces will touch each other and short out. To fix this problem, cover your traces with puffy fabric paint (or another insulator like a satin stitch in regular thread). But, you don't want to cover traces until you're sure that everything works! So, use good judgment in when to coat traces.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_04d.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez les clignotants en LEDs<br />
|Step_Content='''Sew in your left and right signals.'''<br />
<br />
Using the same techniques you used to sew the power supply to the LilyPad, attach all of the + petals of the lights for the left turn signal together and to a petal on the LilyPad (petal 9 for me) and all of the + petals for the right signal together and to another LilyPad petal (11 for me). Attach all of the - petals of the lights together and then to either the - petal on the LilyPad or another LilyPad petal (petal 10 for me). Refer back to my design sketches if any of this is confusing.<br />
<br />
{{Caution|Text=Remember to seal each of your knots with fabric glue to keep them from unraveling. Be careful to avoid shorts; don't let one sewn trace touch another. In this case, the - traces for the LEDs are all connected, but you want to make sure that the + traces for the left and right signals do not touch the - trace or each other.}}<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=Testez les clignotants<br />
|Step_Content=Load a program onto your LilyPad that blinks each turn signal to make sure all of your sewing is correct.<br />
<br />
Here's my test program: [[File:Turn signal code.pdf]]<br />
<br />
If your layout is the same as mine, you can just copy and paste this program into your Arduino window.<br />
<br />
{{Info|Text=If your turn signals don't work, use your multimeter (and the instructions from the last step) to test for shorts or bad connections and make sure that your program matches your physical layout.}}<br />
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'''insulate your turn signal stitches'''<br />
Cover your traces with puffy fabric paint. Remember, you don't want to cover traces until you're sure that everything works! Use good judgment in when to coat traces.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05d.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05e.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_05=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05f.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Placez vos boutons de contrôle<br />
|Step_Content=Find a spot for your switches where they'll be easy to press when you're riding your bike. I mounted mine on the underside of my wrists. I found a good spot by trying out different places. Check out the photos to see what I mean.<br />
<br />
Once you've found a good position, push the legs of the switch through the fabric and bend them over on the inside of the fabric.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05g.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05h.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_05i.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez les boutons<br />
|Step_Content=Sew your switches into the garment. Sew 1 leg to the switch input petal on the LilyPad and another leg, one that is diagonally across from the first , to ground or another LilyPad petal. I used petal 6 for the switch input on the left side and petal 12 for switch input on the right side. I used - for the - connection on the left side, but petal 4 for the - connection on the right side. Refer back to my design drawings if any of this is confusing.<br />
<br />
When you're done sewing, go back and reinforce the switch connections with glue. You don't want your switches to fall out of their stitching.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_06a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_06b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_06c.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Cousez un simple LED sur la manche de chaque bras<br />
|Step_Content=These will give you essential feedback about which turn signal is on. They'll flash to tell you what the back of your jacket is doing, so make sure they're in a visible spot. Sew the + petals of each LED to a LilyPad petal and the - petals of each LED to the - side of the switch (the - trace you sewed in the last step). I used petal 5 for the LED + on the left side and petal 3 for the LED + on the right side. Again, refer back to my design drawings if any of this is confusing.<br />
<br />
As always, remember to glue and trim knots and be careful not to create any shorts.<br />
<br />
Once you sew both wrist LEDs, you're done with the sewing phase of the project! Now, on to programming...<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Picture_00=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07a.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_01=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07b.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_02=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07c.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_03=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07e.jpg<br />
|Step_Picture_04=Turn_signal_biking_jacket_Step_07f.jpg<br />
|Step_Title=Programmez votre veste<br />
|Step_Content='''Decide on the behavior you want'''<br />
I wanted the left switch to turn on the left turn signal for 15 seconds or so, and the right switch to do the same thing for the right signal. Pressing a switch when the corresponding turn signal is on should turn the signal off. Pressing both switches at the same time should put the jacket into nighttime flashing mode. The wrist mounted LEDs should provide feedback about the current state of the jacket.<br />
<br />
Here's the code I wrote to get that behavior: [[File:Turn signal biking jacket.pdf]]<br />
<br />
'''Program your jacket'''<br />
To program your garment, copy and paste my code into an Arduino window and load it onto the LilyPad. You may have to make some small adjustments first depending on where you attached lights and switches. Play with delays to customize your blinking patterns.<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Step}}<br />
|Step_Title=Allez Pédaler<br />
|Step_Content=Plug your battery back in and see if it works and...go biking!<br />
<br />
'''Insulate the rest of your traces'''<br />
<br />
Cover the rest of your traces with puffy fabric paint. Again, don't coat anything until you're sure it works.<br />
<br />
'''About washing'''<br />
<br />
Your creation is washable. Remove the battery and wash the garment by hand with a gentle detergent.<br />
<br />
Note: silver coated threads will corrode over time and their resistance will gradually increase with washing and wear. To limit the effects of corrosion, insulate and protect your traces with puffy fabric paint or some other insulator. You can also revive exposed corroded traces with silver polish. Try this on a non-visible area first to see what it does to your fabric!<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Notes}}<br />
|Notes=<br />
}}<br />
{{ {{tntn|Tuto Status}}<br />
|Complete=Yes<br />
}}</div>Pyro