Wikifab - Contributions de l’utilisateur [fr]

Connected weather station 9-11 activities

2020-02-04T14:15:20Z

Digijeunes : Page créée avec « {{Tuto Details |Main_Picture=Connected_weather_station_9-11_activities_GmN2ye.jpg |Main_Picture_annotation={"version":"2.4.6","objects":[{"type":"image","version":"2.4.6",... »

Water probe

2020-02-04T14:13:14Z

Digijeunes : Page créée avec « {{Tuto Details |Description=<translate>In this tutorial you will learn how to assemble your own DIY water probe to measure conductivity, hence the degree of pollution of a... »

{{Tuto Details
|Description=<translate>In this tutorial you will learn how to assemble your own DIY water probe to measure conductivity, hence the degree of pollution of any liquid.</translate>
|Area=Electronics, Machines and Tools, Sport and Outside
|Type=undefined
|Difficulty=Medium
|Duration=1
|Duration-type=day(s)
|Cost=10
|Currency=EUR (€)
}}
{{Introduction
|Introduction=<translate>The water probe is a relatively simple device. Its workings rely upon the fact that pure water does not actually carry an electric charge very well. So what we’re really doing with this device is assessing the concentration of conductive particles that are floating in the

(mostly nonconductive) water.

Water is very seldom just the sum of its basic chemical formula: two atoms of hydrogen and one of oxygen. Typically, water is a mixture that also includes other substances that have dissolved into it, including minerals, metals, and salts. In chemistry, water is the solvent, the other substances the solutes, and combined they make a solution.

Solutes create ions: atoms that carry an electric charge. These ions are what actually move electricity through water.

That’s why measuring conductivity is a good way to learn how pure (really, how impure) a water sample may be: the more stuff that’s dissolved in the watery solution, the faster electricity will move through it.</translate>
}}
{{TutoVideo
|VideoType=Youtube
|VideoURLYoutube=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nf1-s_Kp1gM
}}
{{Materials
|ItemList={{ItemList}}
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Assembling the probe</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Solder a strip of male headers (about 10 pins) onto the PCB.

Beware that one pin needs to go into GND on the arduino board, another one into A5 and a third one into A0.

Grab the 10kOhm resistor. Solder one end onto the header pin which goes into GND on the arduino board, the other end of the resistor onto the header pin which end on A0 in the arduino board. This way the resistor will basically create a bridge between GND and A0 on the arduino board.

Grab two pieces of solid core wire (about 30cm long each) and strip both ends of each piece.

Solder one end of the first wire onto the header pin which ends in A5; solder one end of the second piece of wire onto the header pin which ends in A0 on the arduino board.

Connect the other ends of the pieces of solid core wire to the binding post. One end goes into the red part of the post, the other end goes into the black part of the binding post.

Now cut two pieces of solid core wire (about 10 cm long each), and strip both ends of each wire.

Connect one end of each piece of wire to the metal ends of the binding post. Use the bolts to secure the solid core wire in place. Curl the other ends.

Lastly, try placing the PCB on the arduino board, and make sure that one pin goes into GND, another into A0 and a third pin into A5.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Water_probe_J1R4co.png
|Step_Picture_01=Water_probe_BMXO0f.png
|Step_Picture_02=Water_probe_Ayv1IK.png
|Step_Picture_03=Water_probe_BQdDhA.png
|Step_Picture_04=Water_probe_mCNhH6.png
|Step_Picture_05=Water_probe_MgxuFb.png
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Program the arduino board</translate>
|Step_Content=<nowiki><translate>To have a functioning water probe, you ll need to upload a specific program onto the arduino uno board.</nowiki>

Here s the sketch you need to upload:

/*

Water Conductivity Monitor

Sketch for an Arduino gadget that measures the electrical

conductivity of water.

This example code is based on example code that is in the public domain.

<nowiki>*</nowiki>/

const float ArduinoVoltage = 5.00; // CHANGE THIS FOR 3.3v Arduinos

const float ArduinoResolution = ArduinoVoltage / 1024;

const float resistorValue = 10000.0;

int threshold = 3;

int inputPin = A0;

int ouputPin = A5;

void setup()

{

Serial.begin(9600);

pinMode(ouputPin, OUTPUT);

pinMode(inputPin, INPUT);

}

void loop()

{

int analogValue=0;

int oldAnalogValue=1000;

float returnVoltage=0.0;

float resistance=0.0;

double Siemens;

float TDS=0.0;

while(((oldAnalogValue-analogValue)>threshold)
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Using the water probe</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>After you've uploaded the code, dip the two curly ends of the water probe into a liquid and open the serial monitor.

You should be getting readings from the probe, which give you a rough idea of the resistance of the liquid, hence its conductivity.

You can easily test whether your probe is working properly, by just connecting the two curly ends to a piece of metal.

If the serial monitor returns the following message: “Are you sure this isn’t metal?”, you can be sure that the probe is giving you accurate readings.

For tap water, you should be getting a conductivity of about 60 microSiemens.

Now try to add some washing up liquid to the water and see what readings you get.

This time, the conductivity of the liquid raises up to about 170 microSiemens.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Water_probe_eFVF8h.png
|Step_Picture_01=Water_probe_z0yrSJ.png
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Water pollution</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>There is a straightforward connexion between water conductivity and water pollution. Since conductivity is an indication of the amount of foreign substances dissolved in water, it follows that the more conductive a liquid is, the more polluted it also is.

The consequences of water pollution are negative in many ways. One example is related to the concept surface tension.

Because of their polarity, water molecules are strongly attracted to one another, which gives water a high '''surface tension'''. The molecules at the surface of the water “stick together” to form a type of ‘skin’ on the water, strong enough to support very light objects. Insects that walk on water are taking advantage of this surface tension. Surface tension causes water to clump in drops rather than spreading out in a thin layer. It also allows water to move through plant roots and stems and the smallest blood vessels in your body – as one molecule moves up the tree root or through the capillary, it ‘pulls’ the others with it.

However, when foreign substances (ex. washing up liquid) are dissolved into water , this alters the surface tension of water altogether, causing a number of issues.

One experiment you can run at home will help illustrate surface tension and the consequences of polluting water.

Take a paper clip and delicately lower it onto a bowl full of water. The paper clip should then stay on the surface and float.

If, however, a single drop of washing up liquid or other chemical is introduced in the bowl of water, this will cause the paper clip to immediately sink.

The analogy here is between the paper clip and those insects that take advantage of the surface tension of water to walk on it. As foreign substances are introduced in a water reservoir (be this a lake, a stream, etc.) the surface tension is altered, and these insects will no longer be able to float on the surface. Ultimately this impacts on their lifecycle.

You can watch a video of this experiment</translate>
}}
{{Notes
|Notes=<translate>==List of parts==
1x Arduino Uno board

1x 5x7cm PCB

1x chassis mount binding post

Solid core wire

1x 10kOhm resistor

male headers strips for arduino</translate>
}}
{{PageLang
|SourceLanguage=none
|IsTranslation=0
|Language=en
}}
{{Tuto Status
|Complete=Draft
}}

Automated Gardening Plant with arduino Uno under the DEEDU project

2020-02-04T13:40:59Z

Digijeunes :

{{Tuto Details
|Main_Picture=Automated_Gardening_Plant_with_arduino_Uno_under_the_DEEDU_project_F0HZJDMK5MHO0ZH.LARGE.jpg
|Main_Picture_annotation={"version":"2.4.6","objects":[{"type":"image","version":"2.4.6","originX":"left","originY":"top","left":160,"top":-1,"width":724,"height":1024,"fill":"rgb(0,0,0)","stroke":null,"strokeWidth":0,"strokeDashArray":null,"strokeLineCap":"butt","strokeDashOffset":0,"strokeLineJoin":"miter","strokeMiterLimit":4,"scaleX":0.44,"scaleY":0.44,"angle":0,"flipX":false,"flipY":false,"opacity":1,"shadow":null,"visible":true,"clipTo":null,"backgroundColor":"","fillRule":"nonzero","paintFirst":"fill","globalCompositeOperation":"source-over","transformMatrix":null,"skewX":0,"skewY":0,"crossOrigin":"","cropX":0,"cropY":0,"src":"https://wikifab.org/images/1/1f/Automated_Gardening_Plant_with_arduino_Uno_under_the_DEEDU_project_F0HZJDMK5MHO0ZH.LARGE.jpg","filters":[]}],"height":449.44920440636474,"width":600}
|Description=<translate>Digital Environmental Education (DEEDU) aims to produce educational resources for the youth work sector,

on the topic of environmental science and tech. The strategic objectives of the project are:

promote youth work, combine the benefits and relevance of environmental education with the strength of digital tech, boost young people's maker mindest, provide young people and educators concrete tools to engage in citizen science

The consortium aims at prototyping an educational kit that allows young users to act upon their own environment in view of tackling environmental issues such as excessive energy consumption, air and water pollution.</translate>
|Area=Electronics, House
|Type=undefined
|Difficulty=Easy
|Duration=1
|Duration-type=hour(s)
|Cost=30
|Currency=EUR (€)
}}
{{Introduction
|Introduction=<translate>The automated gardening kit is a system that allows controlling and automatic watering of a small plant. This system is developed for an educational purpose, the plant shall stay at different pupil's house to be controlled.

The user will take notes every weeks from the control panel to create a database to folllow the growth of the connected plant

What does it control ?

-The moisture of the soil, this value will be directly used to decide whether to water or not

-The CO2 concentration

-The intensity of the light

-The temperature and the humidity of ambient air

'''What action can be performed ? '''

-A water pump will get water from a small reservoir to put it on the plant

-A screen will display the information needed and 2 buttons to control what info to be displayed

 </translate>
}}
{{TutoVideo
|VideoType=Youtube
|VideoURLYoutube=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uH01edMarxw&feature=emb_logo
}}
{{Materials}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>List of Parts</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>You will need

electronic control and command part (listed below)

water tank

a plant in a pot

a box for electronic (<nowiki>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4106140</nowiki>)

3d printed light sensor support (<nowiki>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3986667</nowiki>)

3d printed sprinkler (<nowiki>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3986672</nowiki>)

For the Command & Control part the material used are the following:

- 1 Arduino UNO link

- 1 moisture sensor link

- 1 CO2 Gas sensor Mq7 link

- 1 Lcd screen 2x16 (+i2c)) link

- 1 LDR light sensor (photoresistor) link

- 2 push buttons link

- 1 Temp + humidity sensor DHT11 link

- 1 5V water pump link

- 1 5v relay link

- 3 1k resistor link

- 1 Breadbord or prototyping PCB link

-2 5v power supply link</translate>
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Connecting the electronics</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>'''Digital pin'''

Pin: 7, relay

Pin: 9, button 1

Pin: 10, button 2

Pin: 13, LED

'''Analog pin'''

Pin: A0, Moisture sensor

Pin: A1, Co2 sensor

Pin: A2, Photoresistor

Pin: A3, Temperature sensor

Pin: A4, Screen Rx

Pin: A5, Screen Tx

The connection of Arduino on Water pump power supply The Arduino is to be connected directly on the water pump power supply so the whole system need only one electric plug to works.

The Water pump is a 5V power supply, the arduino can support that voltage but this leads to a warming of the internal component of the arduino and will possibly damage on the arduino with time. The easiest and fastest choice for now is two 5v power supply (one for arduino and one for the pump)

For using only one power supply like a 12v one, some solution are linked below

[https://blog.yavilevich.com/2017/03/efficient-dc-12v-to-5v-conversion-for-low-power-electronics-evaluation-of-six-modules/ A page presenting the different solutions]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uH01edMarxw

 </translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Automated_Gardening_Plant_with_arduino_Uno_under_the_DEEDU_project_FWJYKDCK5MHO0RT.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Programming</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abQ7bf_y3WM

In this section is presented how shall be used the Deedu system and what will be the response at different cases

UC01 : Control data from sensors & Number of spraying By using one button and looking on the screen, the user shall be able to check instantly the value measured by all sensors.

UC02 : Spray the plant when needed & Water tank level control

The system should be able to water the plant when it's needed (The moisture sensor value indicates when watering is needed). The water pump is tricky to start (if no water is present in the tube, it won't be powerful enough to start), so the best is to prevent absolute emptiness of the water tank. Therefore in order to control the water level and prevent water from pumping if water level is too low. The user will get a warning to fill the water tank.

The Arduino code

You can download the arduino code used in the following, every function is commented.

Download the code below on your arduino board

 </translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Automated_Gardening_Plant_with_arduino_Uno_under_the_DEEDU_project_FRZU0Q0K5MHO3IK.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>The code</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>https://drive.google.com/open?id=1S6yNrqawu6pW2FhQUX1jlsWAc_XM-ViZVKtaYm3dquc</translate>
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Printing and Cutting the Parts</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>All the files designed for this project are available on thingiverse.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Automated_Gardening_Plant_with_arduino_Uno_under_the_DEEDU_project_FG0R11XK5MHO0RU.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=Automated_Gardening_Plant_with_arduino_Uno_under_the_DEEDU_project_F5I54BFK5MHO0RV.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_02=Automated_Gardening_Plant_with_arduino_Uno_under_the_DEEDU_project_FDCFIEGK5MHO0RX.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_03=Automated_Gardening_Plant_with_arduino_Uno_under_the_DEEDU_project_FQ68CI5K5MHO2UD.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_04=Automated_Gardening_Plant_with_arduino_Uno_under_the_DEEDU_project_F4LDBNTK5MHO0RN.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Credits</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>This kit was made by Pralnia Makerspace, Poland under the supervision of Digijeunes.

''This tutorial has been produced as part of the DEEDU project, co-financed by the Erasmus + Programme of the European commission. Project n°: 2018-1-FR02-KA205-014144.''

''The content of this publication does not reflect the official opinion of the European Union. Responsibility for the information and views expressed therein lies entirely with the authors. For more information, email us at'' info@digijeunes.com</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Automated_Gardening_Plant_with_arduino_Uno_under_the_DEEDU_project_FGX3ERFK5QUQFLE.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Notes
|Notes=<translate></translate>
}}
{{PageLang
|Language=en
|SourceLanguage=none
|IsTranslation=0
}}
{{Tuto Status
|Complete=Draft
}}

Buzzing Bee Circuit

2020-02-04T13:40:47Z

Digijeunes :

{{Tuto Details
|Main_Picture=Buzzing_Bee_Circuit_FFPXUT6K437EMXQ.LARGE.jpg
|Main_Picture_annotation={"version":"2.4.6","objects":[{"type":"image","version":"2.4.6","originX":"left","originY":"top","left":30,"top":3,"width":940,"height":788,"fill":"rgb(0,0,0)","stroke":null,"strokeWidth":0,"strokeDashArray":null,"strokeLineCap":"butt","strokeDashOffset":0,"strokeLineJoin":"miter","strokeMiterLimit":4,"scaleX":0.57,"scaleY":0.57,"angle":0,"flipX":false,"flipY":false,"opacity":1,"shadow":null,"visible":true,"clipTo":null,"backgroundColor":"","fillRule":"nonzero","paintFirst":"fill","globalCompositeOperation":"source-over","transformMatrix":null,"skewX":0,"skewY":0,"crossOrigin":"","cropX":0,"cropY":0,"src":"https://wikifab.org/images/2/21/Buzzing_Bee_Circuit_FFPXUT6K437EMXQ.LARGE.jpg","filters":[]}],"height":450.1818181818182,"width":600}
|Description=<translate>This is a simple activity that can be used with younger participants, introducing them to Computer Aided Design, 3 D printing and electronic prototyping and giving an example of how these can work together to make something moveable.</translate>
|Area=Electronics
|Type=undefined
|Difficulty=Easy
|Duration=1
|Duration-type=hour(s)
|Cost=10
|Currency=EUR (€)
}}
{{Introduction
|Introduction=<translate>This is a good activity for participants to experiment with CAD and 3D printing for the first time, as well as being adaptable and giving more experienced participants the opportunity to develop their CAD skills.

AGES: 7 to 13 years old

TIME: 1 to 2 hours+ 3D printing time

Activity's Aims and Learning Objectives

- Using multiple skills, techniques and materials, to create something physical

- To be able to link previous knowledge of circuits to the simple circuit used in the activity

- Building confidence around creating and experimenting, on and off the computer

- To create a simple, working circuit that includes multiple components.

- To gain experience with 3D printing and transferring a CAD design to the printer

- To experiment with 3D printing

- To experiment Computer Aided Design software such as TinkerCAD

=== Supplies: ===
- Computer with access to TinkerCAD

- 3D printer

- Circular battery (lithium coin cell)

- Mountable slide switch

- Vibrating motor</translate>
}}
{{Materials}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Print Battery Holder</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>The battery holder can be found on TinkerCAD as 'Battery Holder - Buzzing Bee' at the link

This CAD will need to be saved as a .stl file

Open the .stl file in the printer software for your printer

After centring and adjusting the settings as needed, slice the print and transfer the new created file to the printer. PRINT!

 </translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Buzzing_Bee_Circuit_FFQTHTCK437EMXV.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=Buzzing_Bee_Circuit_F491UMNK437F3YS.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_02=Buzzing_Bee_Circuit_FR4RPMVK437EMXR.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Create the Main Body</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>The bumble bee design for the main body can be found on TinkerCAD as 'Bee move body piece', at this link

Following the same steps as for the battery holder, print this out using the 3D printer. Make sure to include supports as there are some areas of overhang, such as the wings.

If the participants already has some experience with TinkerCAD, this could be a chance for them to create their own design.

Things to think about:

- How big does it need to be to make sure that the battery holder can fit?

- What shape is the battery holder when the circuit is attached?

- How should the main body be designed to make sure it fits inside

- With only using a small vibrating motor, think about the overall size so that it is not too big or heavy.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Buzzing_Bee_Circuit_FLN4E2QK437F38K.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=Buzzing_Bee_Circuit_FQDZU58K437EMXO.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Set Up the Circuit</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>For the circuit you will need a lithium coin cell, a vibrating motor and a slide switch.

First test your vibrating motor by connecting the negative wire (usually black) with the negative side of the battery, and the positive wire (red) with the positive side of the battery. It should start to vibrate.

Insert the switch into the back hole of the 3D printed holder and stick into place using a glue gun.

Take the vibrating motor and mount it on the back left corner of the 3D printed holder with the wires exiting towards where the battery will sit.

Connect the positive wire (red) from the vibrating motor to one of the switch's middle pins. Attach the wire to the pin by soldering.

The negative wire (black) from the vibrating motor needs to touch the negative side of the battery. It can be held in place using a small piece of Sellotape.

Insert the battery into the holder. It may need a small piece of folded card to sit under it to make sure it sits high enough so that the top surface (positive side) of the battery touches the lower pins of the switch.

In summary:

+ve vibrator connection to middle pin of switch (soldered)

-ve vibrator connection to -ve side of battery (held by tape)

Battery sat in holder with +ve side up, raised high enough to touch bottom pin of the switch</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Buzzing_Bee_Circuit_FF3WIWXK437EMXS.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=Buzzing_Bee_Circuit_FG7XS99K437EMXU.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Combine Battery Holder With the Printed Main Body</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>After testing that your circuit in the battery holder works, and the vibrator successfully vibrates when the switch is turned on, you can attach the holder to the main body.

We suggest that it is best to apply glue using a glue gun around the sides of the 3D printed holder, but try to avoid the base. The base should be as flat a possible and glue on the base should be avoided otherwise the object will not move as successfully.

Once the glue has dried give it a go and watch your bee buzzz!</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Buzzing_Bee_Circuit_FTE73QJK437EN6P.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Notes
|Notes=<translate></translate>
}}
{{PageLang
|Language=en
|SourceLanguage=none
|IsTranslation=0
}}
{{Tuto Status
|Complete=Draft
}}

Automated Gardening Plant with arduino Uno under the DEEDU project

2020-02-04T13:40:34Z

Digijeunes :

{{Tuto Details
|Main_Picture=Automated_Gardening_Plant_with_arduino_Uno_under_the_DEEDU_project_F0HZJDMK5MHO0ZH.LARGE.jpg
|Main_Picture_annotation={"version":"2.4.6","objects":[{"type":"image","version":"2.4.6","originX":"left","originY":"top","left":160,"top":-1,"width":724,"height":1024,"fill":"rgb(0,0,0)","stroke":null,"strokeWidth":0,"strokeDashArray":null,"strokeLineCap":"butt","strokeDashOffset":0,"strokeLineJoin":"miter","strokeMiterLimit":4,"scaleX":0.44,"scaleY":0.44,"angle":0,"flipX":false,"flipY":false,"opacity":1,"shadow":null,"visible":true,"clipTo":null,"backgroundColor":"","fillRule":"nonzero","paintFirst":"fill","globalCompositeOperation":"source-over","transformMatrix":null,"skewX":0,"skewY":0,"crossOrigin":"","cropX":0,"cropY":0,"src":"https://wikifab.org/images/1/1f/Automated_Gardening_Plant_with_arduino_Uno_under_the_DEEDU_project_F0HZJDMK5MHO0ZH.LARGE.jpg","filters":[]}],"height":449.44920440636474,"width":600}
|Description=<translate>Digital Environmental Education (DEEDU) aims to produce educational resources for the youth work sector,

on the topic of environmental science and tech. The strategic objectives of the project are:

promote youth work, combine the benefits and relevance of environmental education with the strength of digital tech, boost young people's maker mindest, provide young people and educators concrete tools to engage in citizen science

The consortium aims at prototyping an educational kit that allows young users to act upon their own environment in view of tackling environmental issues such as excessive energy consumption, air and water pollution.</translate>
|Area=Electronics, House
|Type=undefined
|Difficulty=Very easy
|Duration=1
|Duration-type=hour(s)
|Cost=30
|Currency=EUR (€)
}}
{{Introduction
|Introduction=<translate>The automated gardening kit is a system that allows controlling and automatic watering of a small plant. This system is developed for an educational purpose, the plant shall stay at different pupil's house to be controlled.

The user will take notes every weeks from the control panel to create a database to folllow the growth of the connected plant

What does it control ?

-The moisture of the soil, this value will be directly used to decide whether to water or not

-The CO2 concentration

-The intensity of the light

-The temperature and the humidity of ambient air

'''What action can be performed ? '''

-A water pump will get water from a small reservoir to put it on the plant

-A screen will display the information needed and 2 buttons to control what info to be displayed

 </translate>
}}
{{TutoVideo
|VideoType=Youtube
|VideoURLYoutube=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uH01edMarxw&feature=emb_logo
}}
{{Materials}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>List of Parts</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>You will need

electronic control and command part (listed below)

water tank

a plant in a pot

a box for electronic (<nowiki>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4106140</nowiki>)

3d printed light sensor support (<nowiki>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3986667</nowiki>)

3d printed sprinkler (<nowiki>https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3986672</nowiki>)

For the Command & Control part the material used are the following:

- 1 Arduino UNO link

- 1 moisture sensor link

- 1 CO2 Gas sensor Mq7 link

- 1 Lcd screen 2x16 (+i2c)) link

- 1 LDR light sensor (photoresistor) link

- 2 push buttons link

- 1 Temp + humidity sensor DHT11 link

- 1 5V water pump link

- 1 5v relay link

- 3 1k resistor link

- 1 Breadbord or prototyping PCB link

-2 5v power supply link</translate>
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Connecting the electronics</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>'''Digital pin'''

Pin: 7, relay

Pin: 9, button 1

Pin: 10, button 2

Pin: 13, LED

'''Analog pin'''

Pin: A0, Moisture sensor

Pin: A1, Co2 sensor

Pin: A2, Photoresistor

Pin: A3, Temperature sensor

Pin: A4, Screen Rx

Pin: A5, Screen Tx

The connection of Arduino on Water pump power supply The Arduino is to be connected directly on the water pump power supply so the whole system need only one electric plug to works.

The Water pump is a 5V power supply, the arduino can support that voltage but this leads to a warming of the internal component of the arduino and will possibly damage on the arduino with time. The easiest and fastest choice for now is two 5v power supply (one for arduino and one for the pump)

For using only one power supply like a 12v one, some solution are linked below

[https://blog.yavilevich.com/2017/03/efficient-dc-12v-to-5v-conversion-for-low-power-electronics-evaluation-of-six-modules/ A page presenting the different solutions]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uH01edMarxw

 </translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Automated_Gardening_Plant_with_arduino_Uno_under_the_DEEDU_project_FWJYKDCK5MHO0RT.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Programming</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abQ7bf_y3WM

In this section is presented how shall be used the Deedu system and what will be the response at different cases

UC01 : Control data from sensors & Number of spraying By using one button and looking on the screen, the user shall be able to check instantly the value measured by all sensors.

UC02 : Spray the plant when needed & Water tank level control

The system should be able to water the plant when it's needed (The moisture sensor value indicates when watering is needed). The water pump is tricky to start (if no water is present in the tube, it won't be powerful enough to start), so the best is to prevent absolute emptiness of the water tank. Therefore in order to control the water level and prevent water from pumping if water level is too low. The user will get a warning to fill the water tank.

The Arduino code

You can download the arduino code used in the following, every function is commented.

Download the code below on your arduino board

 </translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Automated_Gardening_Plant_with_arduino_Uno_under_the_DEEDU_project_FRZU0Q0K5MHO3IK.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>The code</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>https://drive.google.com/open?id=1S6yNrqawu6pW2FhQUX1jlsWAc_XM-ViZVKtaYm3dquc</translate>
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Printing and Cutting the Parts</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>All the files designed for this project are available on thingiverse.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Automated_Gardening_Plant_with_arduino_Uno_under_the_DEEDU_project_FG0R11XK5MHO0RU.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=Automated_Gardening_Plant_with_arduino_Uno_under_the_DEEDU_project_F5I54BFK5MHO0RV.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_02=Automated_Gardening_Plant_with_arduino_Uno_under_the_DEEDU_project_FDCFIEGK5MHO0RX.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_03=Automated_Gardening_Plant_with_arduino_Uno_under_the_DEEDU_project_FQ68CI5K5MHO2UD.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_04=Automated_Gardening_Plant_with_arduino_Uno_under_the_DEEDU_project_F4LDBNTK5MHO0RN.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Credits</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>This kit was made by Pralnia Makerspace, Poland under the supervision of Digijeunes.

''This tutorial has been produced as part of the DEEDU project, co-financed by the Erasmus + Programme of the European commission. Project n°: 2018-1-FR02-KA205-014144.''

''The content of this publication does not reflect the official opinion of the European Union. Responsibility for the information and views expressed therein lies entirely with the authors. For more information, email us at'' info@digijeunes.com</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Automated_Gardening_Plant_with_arduino_Uno_under_the_DEEDU_project_FGX3ERFK5QUQFLE.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Notes
|Notes=<translate></translate>
}}
{{PageLang
|Language=en
|SourceLanguage=none
|IsTranslation=0
}}
{{Tuto Status
|Complete=Draft
}}

Mighty maker level belt

2020-02-04T13:40:23Z

Digijeunes :

{{Tuto Details
|Main_Picture=Mighty_maker_level_belt_F13SQQEK437EPR8.LARGE.jpg
|Main_Picture_annotation={"version":"2.4.6","objects":[{"type":"image","version":"2.4.6","originX":"left","originY":"top","left":28,"top":2,"width":940,"height":788,"fill":"rgb(0,0,0)","stroke":null,"strokeWidth":0,"strokeDashArray":null,"strokeLineCap":"butt","strokeDashOffset":0,"strokeLineJoin":"miter","strokeMiterLimit":4,"scaleX":0.57,"scaleY":0.57,"angle":0,"flipX":false,"flipY":false,"opacity":1,"shadow":null,"visible":true,"clipTo":null,"backgroundColor":"","fillRule":"nonzero","paintFirst":"fill","globalCompositeOperation":"source-over","transformMatrix":null,"skewX":0,"skewY":0,"crossOrigin":"","cropX":0,"cropY":0,"src":"https://wikifab.org/images/2/2e/Mighty_maker_level_belt_F13SQQEK437EPR8.LARGE.jpg","filters":[]}],"height":450.1818181818182,"width":600}
|Description=<translate>The Mighty Maker Level Belt is two integrated RGB LED strips as a wearable item which is programmed using an Arduino so that it illuminates a certain colour.</translate>
|Area=Electronics
|Type=undefined
|Difficulty=Hard
|Duration=1
|Duration-type=hour(s)
|Cost=10
|Currency=EUR (€)
}}
{{Introduction
|Introduction=<translate>There are two options to this activity where the belt can either the mountable by creating a 3D printed component to support it or creating a holder and physical belt out of fabric.

This activity allows participants to create something to help them record what they have achieved whilst at the Makerspace.

The idea behind the level belt is that the participants are able to code the belt to be a particular colour depending on what level they have reached. Each colour corresponds to improvements in skills that can be developed in the Makerspace environment.

This is a project with a slightly higher level of difficulty, where the participant will have to face some problem solving situations and learn how to integrate different components so that they create a finished working product.

AGES: 11 to 18 years

TIME: 4 to 5 hours (including 3D printing time)

Activity's Aims and Learning Objectives:

- To create something that they value

- To help aid self-evaluation

- To encourage a reward system and enable facilitators to provide positive feedback and encouragement

- To enable conversations about how makers can improve and encourage self-motivation

- To create something that combines different skills, materials and techniques from multiple disciplines.

- To allow flexibility in design and encourage personalisation

- Build confidence with electronic prototyping

- Learn and practise soldering

- Experiment with 3D printing and designing for 3D printing

- Opportunity to develop Computer Aided Design skills using TinkerCAD

- Develop sewing and fabrication skills using more traditional materials

- Combining different materials, disciplines and techniques

- To learn about different circuit components

- Gain confidence with Arduino programming and having the opportunity to experiment

- Making something that is meant to be longer lasting

- Learn about electronic prototyping

- Experiment with electronic soldering

- Experiment with 3D printing

- Experiment with 3D modeling

- Experiment with programming with Arduino

=== Supplies: ===
For the programmed RGB strip

- Computer with Arduino installed

- Arduino Uno board or equivalent

- RGB LED strips

- 3 x [100 to 220 ohm resistors]

- 3 x [NPN transistors such as TIP120]

- Multiple male to male solderless breadboard jumper cables

- Breadboard

- Wire

- Wire strippers

- Soldering iron

- Solder

- 9V battery

- 9V battery strap

- Small prototyping printed circuit board (PCB)

- Header pins (breakaway male)

- Switch (in this example we use a slide switch)

- Heat shrink wrapping tubes (not necessary but are advised!)

- Glue gun

- Small stickers/tape you can write on to use as labels

Creating fabric belt

- Thread

- Felt

- Velcro and/or buttons

- Stanley knife

For 3D printed mount

- 3D printer

- Computer with access to TinkerCAD</translate>
}}
{{Materials}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Create Temporary Tester Circuit</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Set up a temporary circuit using a bread board and solderless jumper cables.

Set up your circuit as shown in the diagram

Things to note:

- There is a transistor for each of the Red, Blue and Green inputs of the RGB strip

- Each transistor has 3 pins, one for GROUND, one for SIGNAL INPUT and one for SIGNAL OUTPUT

- The signal input pin of each transistor is connected to a pin on the Arduino which will be controlled by the Arduino code - this will tell it whether this colour should illuminate or not.

- The signal output pin of each transistor is connected to the corresponding connection on the RGB strip.

- The Vin pin from the Arduino is connected to the 12V+ connection point on the RGB strip. This means that the power source is coming the computer when it is connected rather than a battery.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Mighty_maker_level_belt_F2WH6KHK437EPP4.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=Mighty_maker_level_belt_FM6EQOEK437EVYJ.LARGE.gif
|Step_Picture_02=Mighty_maker_level_belt_F0YCYB5K437EQ0T.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_03=Mighty_maker_level_belt_F8VQ4EDK437EQ0S.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Code Arduino</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>To check that your new temporary circuit works, you need to code your Arduino.

Insert this basic code into your Arduino window and upload it to the board. If uploaded successfully, your RGB strip should start to glow.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1rZtoLFaFxtY8v7YHRDu3PIaNRMttoTj4iQjpBXmjFxM

IMPORTANT: Because the voltage the strip is receiving is much lower than 12V, the LEDs will not be very bright. Pay close attention to see if they are working or not!

ARDUINO TIPS:

1. Make sure you have selected the correct board [Tools > Board > ...]

2. Make sure you have selected the correct port that your board is connected to [Tools > Port > ...]</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Mighty_maker_level_belt_FQ1YNBFK437EX5M.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Add Battery</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Now you know the code on the board is uploaded and working, you need to get more power to the RGB strip by using the 9V battery.

Insert the battery into the circuit by:

Connecting the negative port to a ground pin on the Arduino

Connecting positive port (via crocodile clip cable) to the crocodile clip which is connecting the Vin of the Arduino board to the 12V connection on the RGB strip (as shown in the picture). NOTE: This connection is so that the battery supplies energy to the Arduino board and the RGB strip.

Once all attached, your strip should light up a lot brighter!</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Mighty_maker_level_belt_FRPSXEDK437EQ4C.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=Mighty_maker_level_belt_FBGNT3IK437EQ4D.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Change Your Code for Your Belt to Be the Correct Colour</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Now you have that all this working you can go back to Arduino and start to understand the code.

Here you can modify the code so that your belt illuminates as the correct colour.

Some extra explanation of part of the example code is given, to help you adapt it! But you will have to play around with the values to make sure it illuminates at the right colour for you!

You should think about:

- Does the lights need to fade or stay on all the time?

- Should your belt change colour or stay one colour all the time?

- How can you simplify this code if the belt is not fading or changing colour?

- How does this code set the colour for the belt?

- What values for each coloured pin correspond to which colours when the lights glow?

To test your code, make sure to re-plug in your board to the computer and upload it, then reconnect the board with the temporary circuit and watch your light show!

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1fXWUy9m0RPEqkevXnIGKaKGncNX9yEHOybdK3mUmc48</translate>
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Create Your Permanent Circuit: Step 1 - Attach Pin Headers</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Now you know that everything works and your happy with your code, you can make everything more permanent by getting rid of the big crocodile clips and jumper cables and move onto a prototyping circuit board.

You can gradually transfer you circuit from your breadboard onto your circuit board as you wish, but here are the steps we recommend you follow:

- Attach a 4 pin header and 8 pin header in the correct places to line up with the Vin, ground, ground pins and numbered pins (most importantly 3, 5 and 6) on the other side. Solder these into place.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Mighty_maker_level_belt_F395EPKK437EQBA.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Create Your Permanent Circuit: Step 2 - Attach Transistors and Ground</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>- Attach the 3 transistors at the top of the circuit board. Solder these into place.

- Ground the 3rd pin of each transistor by taking a wire from the header pin connected with the ground pin of the Arduino and connecting it to the 3rd pin of each transistor.

Make sure good connections are made with the solder. You should be able to do this with 2 pieces of wire as shown in the image.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Mighty_maker_level_belt_FVIE78LK437EQBB.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Create Your Permanent Circuit: Step 3 - Connect Resistors and Connecting Wires</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>- Connect resistors between the input pin of the transistor and the corresponding header pin.

These header pins should be the pins connected to the numbered pins on the Arduino board. It is important that these match up with the pin numbers you assigned in the code. (e.g 3 = blue, 5 = red, 6 = green)

- Add wires to the transistor output pins, which will later connect to the RGB strip. As you will have two RGB strips attached to create your belt, you will need to attach 2 wires to each central pin of the transistors.

NOTE: best to keep these wires long, to make sure they reach the connections later on and length can be removed after.

- Add 1 long wires to the header pin at Vin (this will be connected to the switch)

- Connect a long wire to the header pin at a 2nd ground pin of the Arduino Board.

These will be connected to the 12V connections on the RGB strips and battery later on.

NOTE: again, its best to keep these wires long so that they can reach their connections and the length can be removed after.

You should now have:

- 2 wires coming of each transistor

- 1 wire coming off the Vin header pin

- 1 wire coming off the 2nd ground pin</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Mighty_maker_level_belt_FTCNFDKK437EQBC.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=Mighty_maker_level_belt_FWK41EZK437EQBD.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Test RGB Strips for Belt</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Cut out 2 strips of RGB LED strip, one for each side of your belt.

Test your prototype circuit using crocodile clips, connecting the long wires to each of the correct connections (the 12V connection on RGB strip, the battery and the R, G and B connections on the RGB strip).

Both belts should glow!</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Mighty_maker_level_belt_F34TUF6K437EQFF.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Attach Your Battery and Label Your Wires</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Now you need to mount your battery.

Attach the battery to the bottom of the circuit board using a glue gun.

Attach the battery strap to the head of the battery.

Using a glue gun attach a switch to the top of the battery strap

Connect the black wire (negative), from the battery strap, to the long wire coming from the ground pin of the Arduino (via the circuit board and header pin), making sure to remove length if necessary.

Connect the red wire (positive), from the battery strap, to the first pin of the switch.

Take the long wire connected to the Vin pin of the Arduino board (via the circuit board), cut to length and solder to the middle pin of the switch.

Where you have this wire from Vin connected to the middle pin of the switch, you need 2 wires (one for each RGB strip) to leave the switch. These will be the wires that supply the voltage to the RGB strips when they are switched on.

Check all your soldered connections work by using crocodile clips to connect up your RGB strips with the circuit board, Arduino and battery.

Now you have all your connections working, you should label each of your wires with a small sticker so that you know later on which connection to solder each one to - DO NOT SKIP THIS!</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Mighty_maker_level_belt_FP3T2YWK437EQLE.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=Mighty_maker_level_belt_FRK8LHRK437EQLG.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_02=Mighty_maker_level_belt_F3W1AWMK437EQLH.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Create the Pouch for the Arduino</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>To create the pocket pouch that the Arduino will sit in, use the template given to cut out 3 pieces of felt to size.

First sew the front piece to the bottom piece, in the example a simple blanket stich was used.

Next, sew the back piece on, leaving a large amount free at the top for the lid.

Check that your Arduino and board fits in comfortably.

Now attach a button or Velcro on to the lid so that it can stay closed. If you are using a button, use a Stanley knife to make a slit in the lid for the button to go through.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Mighty_maker_level_belt_FVLX4ZUK48Z81G9.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=Mighty_maker_level_belt_FSNJ6TSK437EPP6.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_02=Mighty_maker_level_belt_FMUSZ7HK437EPP8.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Insert Your Arduino Board</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Turning the pouch over, create two slits in the back piece along the centre line of the pouch. This will be where the wires can feed through to be connected to the RGB strips.

NOTE: Be careful not to cut through the front piece of felt by accident.

Insert your Arduino and board, carefully feed the two sets of wires for each RGB strip (which should be labeled, so you know how to connect them later on) through the two slits in the back.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Mighty_maker_level_belt_FK6I40RK437EPP7.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Connect You Wires to the RGB Strips</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Now you need to solder all your wires to connect with the RGB strips.

Make sure to take note of the labels and make the right connections!

Make sure to remove any length from the wires so that there isn't too much excess as the RGB strip will be positioned next to the pouch.

Make sure to switch your switch to see if it works before moving onto the next steps!</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Mighty_maker_level_belt_FZQG1KUK437EPP9.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Create Correct Size Pieces for the Belt</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Take the distance measured around where you belt will be worn and divide it by 2, then add 5cm.

Cut out 4 pieces of felt (ideally light colours, such as white or cream) which are this length and 5cm in width.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Mighty_maker_level_belt_FLRAULOK437EPP5.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Connect Your RGB Strips to the Belt</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Position the longer pieces of felt behind the RGB strip and the back of the pouch. They should cross over the pouch to about half way.

Stitch on the RGB strip to the long piece of felt so that it holds in place.

Do the same for the opposite side.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Mighty_maker_level_belt_FN7LV2XK437EPPA.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Stitch Together the Belt</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Position another long strip over the top of the RGB strip and tuck under the pouch as much as you can.

Sew the two pieces together using a blanket stitch. (You made need to cut off some length so that the pieces are the same length.)

Repeat for the other side.

Strengthen the connection between the belt and the pouch by re-sewing around where they connect together (particularly on the side of the pouch).</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Mighty_maker_level_belt_FNINSCFK437EPPD.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Add Velcro</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Check that it fits around the waist.

Attach the velcro to the end (or buttons) so that the belt can be done up and fits securely.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Mighty_maker_level_belt_FNHYZGWK437EPPE.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Check It Works, Watch It Glow and Decorate!</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Now you can switch on your belt, watch it glow and wear it with pride!!

It can be reprogrammed to a different colour whilst remaining in the pouch as the USB port should be accessible from the top.

You can decorate your belt with shapes and patches. You could also sew on extra patches where you can pin on your reward pins once you have achieved them!

TIP: Some elements could be completed by the educator before the workshop, such as the pouch, to help children if there is not so much time or if they are less confident with sewing.

TIP: Some elements could be glued rather than sewed, but sewing is better so that the belt will last longer.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Mighty_maker_level_belt_F8R3UB8K437EPPG.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=Mighty_maker_level_belt_FYWQ765K437EPPH.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Notes
|Notes=<translate></translate>
}}
{{PageLang
|Language=en
|SourceLanguage=none
|IsTranslation=0
}}
{{Tuto Status
|Complete=Draft
}}

Glowing LED Butterfly

2020-02-04T13:40:06Z

Digijeunes :

{{Tuto Details
|Main_Picture=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FO4GIQCK437ENEG.LARGE.jpg
|Main_Picture_annotation={"version":"2.4.6","objects":[{"type":"image","version":"2.4.6","originX":"left","originY":"top","left":32,"top":1,"width":940,"height":788,"fill":"rgb(0,0,0)","stroke":null,"strokeWidth":0,"strokeDashArray":null,"strokeLineCap":"butt","strokeDashOffset":0,"strokeLineJoin":"miter","strokeMiterLimit":4,"scaleX":0.57,"scaleY":0.57,"angle":0,"flipX":false,"flipY":false,"opacity":1,"shadow":null,"visible":true,"clipTo":null,"backgroundColor":"","fillRule":"nonzero","paintFirst":"fill","globalCompositeOperation":"source-over","transformMatrix":null,"skewX":0,"skewY":0,"crossOrigin":"","cropX":0,"cropY":0,"src":"https://wikifab.org/images/2/27/Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FO4GIQCK437ENEG.LARGE.jpg","filters":[]}],"height":450.1818181818182,"width":600}
|Description=<translate>This activity is a great example of how Arduino can be integrated with a circuit to create something appealing to all ages and genders. It will introduce the participants to a new component (RGB strips) and is a great next step from simple circuitry as it involves more advanced techniques, such as soldering, and many different components such as a battery, switch, resistors and transistors.</translate>
|Area=Electronics
|Type=undefined
|Difficulty=Medium
|Duration=1
|Duration-type=hour(s)
|Cost=10
|Currency=EUR (€)
}}
{{Introduction
|Introduction=<translate>The glowing LED butterfly uses RGB strips programmed by Arduino to illuminate the 3D printed body. Here the example presents a butterfly design, but any shape could be used. The glowing of the strip and the colour pattern can be programmed using Arduino.

With the integration of a battery and a switch, the creation can be taken home and displayed anywhere. It is a fun and flexible activity which provides a slightly higher level of complexity and can be spread out over multiple sessions by integrating many different skills and techniques including 3D printing, soldering and electronic prototyping.

AGES: 11 to 18 years

TIME: 5+ hours

Activity's Aims and Learning Objectives

- Creating something more complex from the beginning, which also involves all stages such as designing and testing before making it more permanent and transportable.

- Working with small components that require patience and high levels of concentration

- Able to work flexibly and adapt the design or steps taken if something breaks or gets damaged throughout the process.

- Creating a functional object using different techniques from different disciplines.

- A project with a longer time frame which can help support time management. There are different sections of the activity that can be spread out across different sessions.

- Designing 3D printable object using TinkerCAD

- Using a 3D printer to create a component

- Programming an Arduino and involving it in a circuit

- Using Arduino to create a programme which works with RGB strips and can change the lights as they wish

- Gain experience with electronic prototyping and testing circuits

- Gain experience with soldering and creating permanent circuits

- Learn about the different circuit components

- Creating something that is appealing to them

=== Supplies: ===
For the butterfly (or other design to glow)

- Computer with access to TinkerCAD

- 3D printer

- Felt (or other appropriate material for backing)

- Glue gun

For programming element

- Computer with Arduino software downloaded

- Arduino Uno board

For Circuits (temporary and permanent)

- RGB LED strips

- 3 x [100 to 220 ohm resistors]

- 3 x [NPN transistors such as TIP120]

- Multiple male to male solderless breadboard jumper cables

- Breadboard

- Wire

- Wire strippers

- Soldering iron

- Solder

- 9V battery

- 9V battery strap

- Small prototyping printed circuit board (PCB)

- Header pins (breakaway male)

- Switch (in this example we use a slide switch)

- heat shrink wrapping tubes (not necessary but are advised!)</translate>
}}
{{Materials}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Design Your Glowing Component on TinkerCAD</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Use TinkerCad to design the component that will be 3D printed. This is a great opportunity to develop your computer aided design (CAD) skills!

What to think about..

- Needs to have holes for the light to go through

- Needs to be big enough to hide the Arduino and PCB

- Needs to be able to sit on the top of the 9V battery

Pre-made butterfly design can be found through this link</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FDJ41W6K437ENEF.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FTAWQWKK437F1F7.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Print Out Your Design</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Save and download your design as a .stl and upload into your printer software.

Slice your design, making sure you pay attention to the printer settings. Things to think about..

- Is the highest quality necessary for this print?

- How could you save time on the printing?

- How could you save material on this print?

- Are supports needed anywhere? Do you have any large amounts of overhang?

- Should you add a raft to help with the removal of the print from the machine?

Upload onto a SD card or USB stick (depending on your printer) and hit print!</translate>
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Create Your Temporary Tester Circuit</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Set up a temporary circuit using a bread board and solderless jumper cables.

Set up your circuit as shown in the diagram

Things to note:

- There is a transistor for each of the Red, Blue and Green inputs of the RGB strip

- Each transistor has 3 pins, one for GROUND, one for SIGNAL INPUT and one for SIGNAL OUTPUT

- The signal input pin of each transistor is connected to a pin on the Arduino board which will be controlled by the Arduino code - this will tell it when this colour should illuminate or not.

- The signal output pin of each transistor is connected to the corresponding connection on the RGB strip.

- The Vin pin from the Arduino is connected to the 12V+ connection point on the RGB strip. This means that the power source is coming the computer when it is connected rather than a battery</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_F6SG84TK437F1OJ.LARGE.gif
|Step_Picture_01=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FVA57QFK437ENEL.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_02=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FP9TD46K437ENFV.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Coding Your Arduino</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>To check that your new temporary circuit works, you need to code your Arduino.

Insert this basic code into your Arduino window and upload it to the board. If uploaded successfully, your RGB strip should start to glow.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1mJ-rji0tkuz_fEMDP0bslL46oOHOpRaGKp9tPOCiM_A

IMPORTANT: The voltage the strip is receiving is much lower than 12V, therefore the LEDs will not be very bright and hard to see when they light up. You will need to pay close attention to see if they are working or not!</translate>
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Testing Your Temporary Circuit</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Now you know the code on the board is uploaded and working, you need to get more power to the RGB strip by using the 9V battery.

Insert the battery into the circuit by:

Connecting the negative port to a ground pin on the Arduino

Connect the positive port, via crocodile clip cable, to the crocodile clip which is connecting the Vin of the Arduino board to the 12V connection on the RGB strip. As shown in the picture. NOTE: This connection is so that the battery supplies energy to the Arduino board and the RGB strip.

Once all attached, your strip should light up a lot brighter!</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_F3596IEK437ENEJ.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_F7847C8K437ENFU.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Change Your Code</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Now that all of this working you can go back to Arduino and start to understand the code.

Here you can modify the code so that the lights flash in the sequence you would like and with different colours!

Some extra explanation of the code and different changes you can make are given below, but you will have to play around with it and the value for the outputs to make it illuminate in the colours and pattern you want!

When changing your code, some things to think about include:

- What colour do I want my butterfly to glow?

- Do you want your butterfly to change colours? How fast and how often?

- Do you want you butterfly to repeat its sequence or stop after a while?

- What values of r, g and b are needed for certain colours?

To test your code, make sure to re-plug in your board to the computer and upload it, then reconnect the board with the temporary circuit and watch your light show!

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1nIrkKnFvZsXjCcwkL9yXGUat_1BSNQKr6zOC6wpvwvc</translate>
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Create Your Permanent Circuit: Step 1 - Attach Pin Headers</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Now you know that everything works and your happy with your code, you can make everything more permanent by getting rid of the big crocodile clips and jumper cables and moving onto a prototyping circuit board.

You can gradually transfer your circuit from your breadboard onto your circuit board as you wish, but here are the steps we recommend you follow:

- Attach a 4 pin header and 8 pin header in the correct places to line up with the Vin, ground, ground pins and numbered pins (most importantly 3, 5 and 6) on the other side. Solder these into place</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FGG40V2K437ENG5.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Create Your Permanent Circuit: Step 2 - Attach Transistors and Ground</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>- Attach the 3 transistors at the top of the circuit board. Solder these into place.

- Ground the 3rd pin of each transistor by taking a wire from the header pin connected with the ground pin of the Arduino and connecting it to the 3rd pin of each transistor.

Make sure good connections are made with the solder. You should be able to do this with 2 pieces of wire as shown in the image.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FKA2EPJK437ENG7.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Create Your Permanent Circuit: Step 3 - Connect Resistors and Connecting Wires</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>- Connect resistors between the input pin of the transistor and the corresponding header pin.

These header pins should be the pins connected to the numbered pins on the Arduino. It is important that these match up with the pin numbers you assigned in the code. (e.g 3 = blue, 5 = red, 6 = green)

- Add wires to the transistor output pins, which will later connect to the RGB strip.

NOTE: best to keep these wires long, to make sure they reach the connections later on and length can be removed after.

- Add long wires to the header pins at Vin and a second ground pin on the Arduino board. These will be connected to the 12V connection on the RGB strip and battery later on.

NOTE: again, its best to keep these wires long so that they can reach their connections and the length can be removed after. Test your prototype circuit using crocodile clips, connecting the long wires to the correct connections (the 12V connection on RGB strip, the battery and the R, G and B connections on the RGB strip).</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_F3I3NO7K437ENG8.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Integrating Your Circuit With Your 3D Printed Component</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Now you have the circuit ready to go, you can create your glowing object!

Take your 3D printed piece and draw around it onto felt.

Cut out this felt to make a backing.

On this piece of felt work out where you would like to locate you RGB stripes. This may require you to cut up smaller strips and position them separately.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_F34AX5BK437ENFW.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_F5C8TIAK437EULW.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Connect Your RGB Strips If Needed</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>It is easiest to have just one connection point from the strips to your circuit board. For this you need to connect the different strips, either with solder if the pieces are close together (A) or with small pieces of wire (B), as shown in the picture.

In this example we have two connection points, coming from each side of the butterfly.

Check all your soldered connections work by using crocodile clips to connect up your butterfly with the circuit board, Arduino and battery.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FPT6JKPK437EUOC.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FFWZ2AZK437ENGD.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Attach Your Battery and Switch</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Now everything is tested, you can attach the battery to the bottom of the circuit board using a glue gun.

Attach the battery strap to the head of the battery.

Using a glue gun attach a switch to the top of the battery strap.

Connect the black wire (negative), from the battery strap, to the long wire coming from the ground pin of the Arduino (via the circuit board)

Connect the red wire (positive), from the battery strap, to the first pin of the switch.

Take the long wire connected to the Vin pin of the Arduino (via the circuit board), cut to length and solder to the middle pin of the switch. This will complete the circuit through the switch, so that it can control when the RGB strips will light up.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FR9EHP9K437ENGJ.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FWDMKYHK437ENGG.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_02=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FRIWX4JK437ENGH.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Add Your Glowing Back to the 3D Printed Component</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Cut out another piece of felt the same size and shape as your butterfly (or 3D printed component).

Use the glue gun to stick this backing onto your 3D printed piece.

Use the glue gun to stick your felt with RGB strips onto your backed butterfly, so that the RGB strips are sandwiched between the two pieces of felt and stuck onto the back of the butterfly.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FBNXJ5BK437ENGE.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Connecting Your 3D Printed Part to the Circuit</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>If you only have ONE group of connection wires coming from the 3D printed component...

Connect the correct wire from the butterfly to the correct wire from the circuit board and transistors.

Solder the 2 wires together, making sure you reduce the length of the wire so that there is not a lot of excess when the butterfly sits on the battery.

Connect the 12V connection wire from the RGB strip to the middle pin of the switch (the same pin that the battery's +ve output, or red wire, is connected to).

If you have TWO groups of connection wires coming from the 3D printed component...

You will need to connect these together at the back of the butterfly.

You can directly solder the two wires together or add additional wire between them. You will want them to join near the top of the butterfly so they can be easily accessed and connected to the wires coming from the circuit board.

Cut out a third piece of felt, the same size and shape as the butterfly and stick this over the top using the glue gun, hiding any unnecessary wires, but insuring a small part of the connected wires are poking out so that they can be connected with the wires from the circuit board and battery.

Now follow the instruction above for ONE group of connection wires to finish the connections with the circuit board.

NOTE:

You can use shrinking plastic wraps to get rid of any unwanted exposed wire. It may be best to label the wires with the colour/connection as you go to make sure the correct connections are made.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FHA81PYK48Z81B1.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Watch Your Butterfly Glow!</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Now you should be able to switch your switch and watch your butterfly glow!

Position your butterfly onto the battery and attach with a glue gun.

Decorate you butterfly with glitter, paint or sequences that will shine as it glows!</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FQW0YDBK437EPLB.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Notes
|Notes=<translate></translate>
}}
{{PageLang
|Language=en
|SourceLanguage=none
|IsTranslation=0
}}
{{Tuto Status
|Complete=Draft
}}

E-Textile Monster

2020-02-04T13:39:51Z

Digijeunes :

{{Tuto Details
|Main_Picture=E-Textile_Monster_FG9MDO8K3XFLLCR.LARGE.jpg
|Main_Picture_annotation={"version":"2.4.6","objects":[{"type":"image","version":"2.4.6","originX":"left","originY":"top","left":26,"top":1,"width":940,"height":788,"fill":"rgb(0,0,0)","stroke":null,"strokeWidth":0,"strokeDashArray":null,"strokeLineCap":"butt","strokeDashOffset":0,"strokeLineJoin":"miter","strokeMiterLimit":4,"scaleX":0.57,"scaleY":0.57,"angle":0,"flipX":false,"flipY":false,"opacity":1,"shadow":null,"visible":true,"clipTo":null,"backgroundColor":"","fillRule":"nonzero","paintFirst":"fill","globalCompositeOperation":"source-over","transformMatrix":null,"skewX":0,"skewY":0,"crossOrigin":"","cropX":0,"cropY":0,"src":"https://wikifab.org/images/3/39/E-Textile_Monster_FG9MDO8K3XFLLCR.LARGE.jpg","filters":[]}],"height":450.1818181818182,"width":600}
|Description=<translate>E-textile monsters are soft plush toys with embedded electronics. They can be designed and created by young participants who can create circuits with simple electronic components such as LEDs. This activity also adds a switch to make components work when part of the monster is squeezed.</translate>
|Area=Electronics
|Type=undefined
|Difficulty=Medium
|Duration=1
|Duration-type=hour(s)
|Cost=10
|Currency=EUR (€)
}}
{{Introduction
|Introduction=<translate>This activity can be used to introduce the theory of simple circuits to young participants and with the inclusion of a home made switch it can demonstrate the importance of a closed circuit. It can be used to talk about specific components such as LEDs and their requirements when being built into a circuit.

More sophisticated iterations of the activity could include a programmable board (Arduino or ESP32). There could be further stages for participants to also make the e-textile monster controllable remotely via a smartphone.

Objectives and Learning Outcomes of this activity:

- To create something which integrates electronic components with textiles

- Allows for creativity and design

- To think about how the design can effect the function (including a switch)

- To learn about simple circuitry

- To learn about basic circuit components

- To use basic sewing skills

- To give an introduction to combining two different disciplines for the creation of something new

=== Supplies: ===
For simple circuit E-textile monster:

- Felt

- Thread and needle

- Conductive thread

- Stuffing

- LEDs (or other simple electrical components)

- Battery pack and batteries

- Material for switch (tin foil or other metallic material such as copper strips)</translate>
}}
{{Materials}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Design Your Monster</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>This is where you need to decide what shape you want your monster to be and what components it will include. You need to make sure there is room for each of your components and the battery pack as well as decide where you want to squeeze the monster for the components to turn on.

TIP: do not make your monster too big making your circuit components too spread out! Otherwise you will spend a long time sewing to connect the components together</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=E-Textile_Monster_FUTYL3LK437EKAY.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=E-Textile_Monster_FEVPRMCK437EKBM.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Create a Template of Your Monster Shape</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Using card, draw out the shape of your monster and cut it out.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=E-Textile_Monster_F071G2MK437EKB0.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Cut Out Your Monster in Felt</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Fold the felt in half and draw out the design onto the felt using the template.

Make sure there is a part of the body that lies over the crease so that the back and front remain together after being cut out (as shown in the pictures).</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=E-Textile_Monster_FSWRL98K437EKB1.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=E-Textile_Monster_FAM77VQK437EKB2.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Draw Out the Circuit</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>It is always best to draw out the circuit before you start making it to see how every needs to be connected.

This is also a great pedagogical tool and can be a time to talk about the different components in the circuit and how they work, as well as the importance of a closed circuit for the flow of current.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=E-Textile_Monster_FPP4590K437EKB5.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Test LEDs</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Check your LEDs work by touching each leg of the LED with a wire from the battery pack.

The LED will only work in one orientation, as there is an Anode (positive connection - long leg) and a Cathode (negative connection - short leg), meaning that the current is only able to flow through the LED in one direction.

Keep note of which cable from the battery pack needs to be connected to each leg of the LED. It will be important to get this right when putting your monster together.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=E-Textile_Monster_F7M51BOK437EKB6.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Sew in Pocket for Battery Pack</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Cut out a small square of felt. Sew this onto the inside of what will be the back of the monster.

Sew along 3 edges so that the battery pack can slide in from the top.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=E-Textile_Monster_F2PGGJZK437EKB7.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Sew Battery Pack Into Place</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>You will need one cable of the battery pack travelling towards the front piece of your monster (where the LEDs will be) and the other cable travelling towards where you want your switch to be (where you will squeeze the monster to make the components work).

Sew these cables into place as shown in the picture.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=E-Textile_Monster_FHFJJDPK437EKBF.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Sew to Connect Battery Pack to First LED</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Pierce the LEDs through the front piece of the monster, where they need to be positioned. Make sure they have the correct orientation so that the first leg is the correct one to connect with the cable coming from the battery pack.

Using the conductive thread, connect the cable of the battery pack to this leg of the LED. Sew repeatedly over the exposed end of the battery pack and the leg of the LED to ensure that there is a connection.</translate>
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Sew to Connect LEDs</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>This part of the activity can be a good point to stop and introduce the idea of circuits in series and in parallel. With more than one LED being used, a decision should be made on how they will be connected.

In this example we have kept it simple by connecting them in series.

For this, check that the second LED is in the same orientation as the first and connect the 2nd leg of the first LED with the 1st leg of the second LED.

At this point you can check that the first LED works by touching the other battery pack cable with your needle and thread (closing the circuit).</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=E-Textile_Monster_FOSAANWK437EKBH.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=E-Textile_Monster_FQZ0I8XK437EKBJ.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Create the Switch and Complete the Circuit</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>For the switch you will need to position 2 pieces of metallic material (this can be copper strips or even just tin foil) on either side of the monster. They need to line up when the monster is folded.

Stick these pieces in place. These pieces then need to be connected into the circuit using the conductive thread.

From the leg of the LED that currently is not connected to anything, sew to the metallic patch. Make sure to sew a few stitches into the metallic patch to ensure that the current flows through it.

Complete the circuit on the back piece by connecting the end of the cable to the metallic patch with the conductive thread. Make sure connections are made well at each end.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=E-Textile_Monster_FW8ZRLQK437EKBB.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=E-Textile_Monster_FDOLOLVK437EKBG.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Sew on Extra Features</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Add extra features to your monster, like a mouth, by cutting out felt and sewing it on.

Make sure to sew on a patch so that you know where to squeeze it to make the components work.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=E-Textile_Monster_FAQAZG9K437EKBK.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Sew Together and Stuff Your Monster</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Sew around the monster closing up the body. A blanket stitch tends to work well for this. Make sure to leave a gap at the end so that you can add the stuffing.

Through the gap, add the stuffing. Use a pencil to push it into the corners.

Make sure you do not over stuff where the metallic patches are. It is important that the monster is stuffed enough so that when not squeezed, the metallic patches do not touch, but when squeezed they are able to come into contact with each other. Make sure to try it out before sewing up the final part.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=E-Textile_Monster_FRQPDTTK437EKBL.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Sew Up the Final Part</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Sew up your monster so that all the stuffing stays in.

You now have your monster!!

Press on your switch and watch him light up!</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=E-Textile_Monster_FHZ4A1KK437ELW9.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=E-Textile_Monster_F6ZTL62K437ELWB.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Notes
|Notes=<translate></translate>
}}
{{PageLang
|Language=en
|SourceLanguage=none
|IsTranslation=0
}}
{{Tuto Status
|Complete=Draft
}}

2D Drawing to 3D Print

2020-02-04T13:39:08Z

Digijeunes :

{{Tuto Details
|Main_Picture=2D_Drawing_to_3D_Print_facebook_post_2D_to_3D_v2.png
|Main_Picture_annotation={"version":"2.4.6","objects":[{"type":"image","version":"2.4.6","originX":"left","originY":"top","left":21,"top":-1,"width":940,"height":788,"fill":"rgb(0,0,0)","stroke":null,"strokeWidth":0,"strokeDashArray":null,"strokeLineCap":"butt","strokeDashOffset":0,"strokeLineJoin":"miter","strokeMiterLimit":4,"scaleX":0.58,"scaleY":0.58,"angle":0,"flipX":false,"flipY":false,"opacity":1,"shadow":null,"visible":true,"clipTo":null,"backgroundColor":"","fillRule":"nonzero","paintFirst":"fill","globalCompositeOperation":"source-over","transformMatrix":null,"skewX":0,"skewY":0,"crossOrigin":"","cropX":0,"cropY":0,"src":"https://wikifab.org/images/a/ae/2D_Drawing_to_3D_Print_facebook_post_2D_to_3D_v2.png","filters":[]}],"height":450.1845018450185,"width":600}
|Description=<translate>This activity involves participants creating a 2D drawing which they can bring to life through 3D printing.</translate>
|Area=Electronics
|Type=undefined
|Difficulty=Easy
|Duration=1
|Duration-type=hour(s)
|Cost=10
|Currency=EUR (€)
}}
{{Introduction
|Introduction=<translate>This will involve drawing on paper and transferring the image onto the computer. The activity will involve editing and transferring the image to a file that can successfully read by a printer.

The 3D printed drawings can then be used for further activities such as stencils, stamps or creating keyrings.

This activity is a great way of introducing 3D printing and Design for Manufacturing. It is accessible to all ages and abilities by not requiring participants to design something on the computer. It allows participants to be less restricted with their creativity as well as showing them how to transfer an image into a file that can be understood by a printer.

AGES: 6 to 17 years

TIME: 1 to 2 hours

Activities Aims and Learning Objectives

- Exciting way of bringing creative designs to life

- Integration of different disciplines (free hand drawing and 3D printing)

- Using a computer to transfer the 2D design into a 3D printable design

- To be given an introduction to 3D printers and what files they can understand

- To learn about vectorisation of an image

- To gain experience using drawing software such as Inkscape

- To learn about Design for Manufacture and creating a design that is printable

- To gain experience using a 3D printer

=== Supplies: ===
- 3D printer

- Computer with InkScape software downloaded

- Phone with CamScanner downloaded

- Paper

- Black felt tip marker pens

- USB stick or SD card (depending on your 3D printer)</translate>
}}
{{Materials}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Download the Software</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Make sure you have downloaded all the software you will need for the activity. These include:

CamScanner: Free app that can be found on the Google Play Store. (Make sure you press 'skip' when asked to trial Premium for free.)

Inkscape: Free Open Source software for drawing on your computer. It can be downloaded from their website which is easily found through Google.

Suitable software for your 3D printer: Such as FlashPrint or Ultimaker Cura. This will depend on the model of 3D printer you have but should be free to download online.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=2D_Drawing_to_3D_Print_raspb_montage.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Draw Your Design</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Create your free-hand drawing on paper making sure to use a black marker pen.

This is where the Educator/Youth worker can talk about the ideas behind Design for Manufacturing. When you make a design you need to think about certain elements that will be effected by the manufacturing process.

For example:

- You will need to think about how your drawing will print out. If some parts of the drawing are not connected, they will print out as separate parts and not together.

- You will need to think about time, money and material.

How long do you want your print to take?

How much material do you have to use?

How much will your print cost?

The more complex the drawing or the more filled in spaces, the longer it will take to print, the more material it will use and the more expensive it will be.

- You will need to think about the limitations of the 3D printer. For example;

It is only able to print in one colour

Fragility of the print and having to remove it from the printer or raft - therefore considerations should be made as to how thin lines should be made.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=2D_Drawing_to_3D_Print_FWKRI5ZK437EMJS.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Make Sure There Are No White Gaps!</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>After creating your drawing, it is important to make sure that there is a large contrast between the black drawing and the white paper. This will help with scanning and vectorising the image.

Make sure there are no small white gaps in the drawing and that the intensity of the black ink is consistent</translate>
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Scan Your Drawing</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Using CamScanner, take a photo of your drawing to scan it.

When cropping the image, make sure to leave a white border around the main outline.

Once cropped, choose the 'Magic Color' filter to make sure there is a good contrast between the drawing and the paper. If any white gaps appear at this point, it may be necessary to edit your drawing and re-do this step to remove these.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=2D_Drawing_to_3D_Print_FZXYR6NK437F47L.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Upload Your Image</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Save your image as a JPEG file and share it to yourself. Send it to your email or over Facebook so that you can easily access it on the computer.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=2D_Drawing_to_3D_Print_F0IDRH7K437F48B.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Import Image to Inkscape</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>After downloading your JPEG file, open Inkscape and import your image.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=2D_Drawing_to_3D_Print_FZVKXXAK437F3LF.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Vectorise Image</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Vectorise your image in Inkscape by selecting it and going to Path > Trace to Bitmap > Remove background > Update > OK

This should make a copy of the image above the existing one. Make sure to delete the old image below.

Here the Educator could discuss with the participants about what this action is doing and what it means if an image is vectorised. Vectorisation is where a raster image (an image made up of square pixels) is changed to a vectorised image (an image made of geometric objects, such as lines, curves and points, that can be defined mathematically). Through doing this, they can be better read by a computer, are of higher quality and more easily scalable.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=2D_Drawing_to_3D_Print_FQIT18OK437F3M1.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Save Image As JPEG</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Save your new vectorised image as a JPEG, making sure to select .jpg under file type.</translate>
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Upload Image File Into Printer Software</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Import your .jpg image file into your printer software. Depending on your software you may get asked to add thickness via a pop up window or you may have to edit the object once it has loaded in the printer window.

Make sure you scale the print correctly according to how much time and material you would like to use.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=2D_Drawing_to_3D_Print_F76EN67K437F4FO.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=2D_Drawing_to_3D_Print_FYRNS22K437F4FP.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Make Print Configuration</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Depending on your printer and the quality of print you are wanting to reach, make sure to apply the correct settings.

This will include adapting the speed, quality and density of the print. Also it can sometimes be best to add a Raft to the print to help with its removal after it has finished, especially if some parts are thin and fragile.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=2D_Drawing_to_3D_Print_FC3XX8FK437F4HQ.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Slice Your Print</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Slice your print and save it as a .gx file which the printer can recognise.

At this point the Educator can explain what is happening here. For example, the image, as seen on the screen, is being turned into a simple text file which includes just lines of code that the printer can read. It provides co-ordinates for where the nozzle should move to and where it should turn on and off to lay plastic.</translate>
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Transfer File to Printer and PRINT!</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Using the method best suited for your printer (usually either a USB or SD card), transfer your .gx file onto the printer. On the printer press print and watch you 2D drawing come to life!</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=2D_Drawing_to_3D_Print_F97LE6GK437EMJT.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Notes
|Notes=<translate></translate>
}}
{{PageLang
|Language=en
|SourceLanguage=none
|IsTranslation=0
}}
{{Tuto Status
|Complete=Draft
}}

Thermostat control activity v12

2020-02-04T13:38:45Z

Digijeunes :

{{Tuto Details
|Main_Picture=Thermostat_control_activity_v12_wDmxjY.png
|Main_Picture_annotation={"version":"2.4.6","objects":[{"type":"image","version":"2.4.6","originX":"left","originY":"top","left":-6,"top":-3,"width":847,"height":635,"fill":"rgb(0,0,0)","stroke":null,"strokeWidth":0,"strokeDashArray":null,"strokeLineCap":"butt","strokeDashOffset":0,"strokeLineJoin":"miter","strokeMiterLimit":4,"scaleX":0.72,"scaleY":0.72,"angle":0,"flipX":false,"flipY":false,"opacity":1,"shadow":null,"visible":true,"clipTo":null,"backgroundColor":"","fillRule":"nonzero","paintFirst":"fill","globalCompositeOperation":"source-over","transformMatrix":null,"skewX":0,"skewY":0,"crossOrigin":"","cropX":0,"cropY":0,"src":"https://wikifab.org/images/1/1d/Thermostat_control_activity_v12_wDmxjY.png","filters":[]}],"height":450.38560411311056,"width":600}
|Description=<translate>The purpose of this activity is to increase the patient's sensitivity to energy consumption for temperature control.</translate>
|Area=Electronics, Machines and Tools
|Type=undefined
|Difficulty=Very easy
|Duration=2
|Duration-type=hour(s)
|Cost=30
|Currency=EUR (€)
}}
{{Introduction
|Introduction=<translate>This activity is designed for children over the age of 9, who are able to read and understand the indicative temperature numbers and the information that appears on the displays.

The use of electricity in the home is called "domestic consumption".

Energy efficiency is the ability to make intelligent use of resources, minimizing waste as much as possible. For example, a room that is not frequented by anyone may not need air conditioning or artificial light. Adapting the ignition or adjusting the intensity of the users of this environment allows for a more intelligent use of resources, therefore a more efficient use in which waste is reduced to a minimum.

The lower the energy loss to achieve a specific purpose, the higher the degree of energy efficiency.

Energy demand is on the rise worldwide. The situation on the energy market is heating up and energy prices are rising.

There is a strong correlation between energy demand and social tensions in the world. Furthermore, there is also a strong correlation between the massive use of mineral resources, pollution, the increase in particular of diseases, desertification and global warming.

Many of the world's most important problems are related to the use of energy. A reduction in energy demand would lead to a confusion of many global problems.

So how can we achieve energy efficiency in our living environment?

Many small steps can be taken to get better use of consumption. The purpose of this activity is to make the user learn the main problems related to the domestic world and learn to adopt all the solutions to prevent the inefficient use of energy.</translate>
}}
{{Materials}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Creation of the environment What you need?</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>== What you need[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1HVWFDdyiLj6ORTMYcQF-VPyJCPGuPzeTj_FaKip4pS4/edit#heading=h.kft4zwyruhwh ?] ==

* A pair of scissors
* An old shoe box
* Pastels / glue / colored sheets
* A small fan

How to create the environment

As in the previous activity, the children have a box that will simulate the home environment. The moderator can leave room for children to decorate their boxes and express their creativity.

Even in this case, children will have to cut the smaller sides: on one side they will be able to look into the box, on the other they can insert a small fan.

The device, inserted in the box, will detect if there is the right temperature.

By accessing the fan, the environment will become colder, although there is no need.

Thanks to the signaling of the device, children will understand that the fan can be turned off.

== How to build the box[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1HVWFDdyiLj6ORTMYcQF-VPyJCPGuPzeTj_FaKip4pS4/edit#heading=h.rocl9tvc6md5 ?] ==

* We take a box of shoes that we no longer use;
* With the help of a pair of scissors with a rounded tip, let's cut one of the shorter sides of the box. From here we could observe inside the box itself what will be simulated;
* Let's cut the other minor side in the same way. From this we will insert the small fan;
* By inserting the device inside the box, we created our miniature room and we are ready for the experiment.</translate>
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>How to build the device?</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>It is necessary that the pcb is well soldered so that the circuits are resistant and that they do not disconnect when you are going to put everything in the box. once the pcb is finished, it will have to be positioned over the raspberry for it to be put into operation.

To check if everything works well, switch the raspberry on and insert the pcb above it. With the help of a tester you can check that all the connections have been made well, just check that the voltage reaches all the desired points. A more thorough test can then be rerun when the whole device is ready.

To close everything in a wrapper, it may be useful to 3D print the suitable box whose source can be downloaded at the following link:</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Thermostat_control_activity_v12_Fw8lVf.png
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>How to put precisely the Blynk app?</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Once the application has been downloaded from the store, it is necessary to register a Blynk account by creating a profile, after which a new project must be created and a token generated. The token is an element that acts as a shared key, that is, it is a word (a token) that uniquely identifies the project and allows you to connect the device to the control terminal.

The app can be run on Android and Ios tablets and smartphones. This allows a wider audience of people to run and realize the remote controller.

The Blynk app allows you to easily customize and change the interface of the remote controller. This guide explains how to make a version of the remote controller but nothing prevents you from adding new features to make it even more useful and nice.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Thermostat_control_activity_v12_EY6CwV.png
|Step_Picture_01=Thermostat_control_activity_v12_dcqV31.png
|Step_Picture_02=Thermostat_control_activity_v12_RntDGl.png
|Step_Picture_03=Thermostat_control_activity_v12_Y6GyR2.png
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Environmental monitoring</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>In order to check the conditions of the environment at runtime, just follow the trend of the values that are printed on the screen on the terminal you are using (tablet, smartphone, etc.)

The user must therefore follow the variation of the measurement in order to be able to account for the use he is making of the electric user.

description of the environment

We often change configuration so that the user becomes familiar with all contexts and learns well the benefits of efficient use of the device.

Recall that the purpose of the activity is to familiarize the user with the concept of energy saving. The box in which the device is inserted is an abstraction of a room. The connection between the components of the box and a domestic context will be well explained to the user.

We will have to simulate multiple situations. The user must understand the use of an electrical user in completely inadequate and suitable cases.

We ask the user to try to understand if the use of a fan is necessary based on the temperature that reads on the display. If the environment is already sufficiently cool, the user will have to learn that a fan (or in any case a cooling device) is inappropriate for the context. It should be turned off.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Thermostat_control_activity_v12_hGqFr4.png
|Step_Picture_01=Thermostat_control_activity_v12_ZgE6tD.png
|Step_Picture_02=Thermostat_control_activity_v12_2K65o9.png
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Conclusion of the activity</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>At the end of the activity it is thought to have the children elaborate a page of diary, asking them to tell the experience they have carried out by highlighting the strengths and weaknesses of the device they have used and to provide any advice to the creators.

This will serve administrators, as well as creators of the device, on multiple fronts.

It will undoubtedly be useful to creators to work on weak points, and therefore to improve.

On the other hand, it will serve as a sort of database. In fact, this diary page will be kept by the creators in an archive, in order to be always accessible.

Furthermore, if the critical issues emerge, once they are improved, the creators could think of carrying out this activity again.

Therefore, the latter becomes essential for the formation of an archive and to be able to compare the results if the activity is proposed again later.

== Results ==
Sometimes we act wrongly not out of love or indifference to our planet, but because some issues and some important precautions are ignored.

As adults, we have a moral obligation to inform children, sensitize them, allow them to have all that useful information to be a good citizen and to love their world (and here we do not focus only on the environmental aspect!)

In fact, working with children allows you to promote initiatives that aim to change the wrong lifestyles that we may have due to bad, or completely absent, information.

At the end of the activity, the children should have refined their awareness of the environment. They are expected to be more attentive, more responsible towards the environment and also in the use of devices and home comforts. By raising children's awareness, the aim is to trigger chain awareness.

If the children have actually introjected these attentions, they will also be more sensitive at the end of the activity. Children who pay more attention to a light or a heated radiator at home or at school will be able to sensitize those around them too (friends, classmates, family members).

So, precisely through play, the aim is to "turn the spotlight" on these issues, to stimulate interest, a sense of responsibility and to arouse a critical perspective of the little ones.

In addition, the proposed game allows you to stimulate creativity and imagination. Cooperative learning and problem solving skills are called into play.

Children should be able to use the device. This will also be useful for sponsoring the device itself. In fact, anything accessible to children is defined as simple to use. For this reason, people who are less familiar with technologies, such as older people, will not be discouraged from using the device but will consider it accessible.

In addition, several studies have shown how the use of technologies by older people improves their cognitive and mnemonic abilities, helping the brain to remain trained.

By carrying out this activity that strongly recalls reality, children understand that this device can really be applied in any home environment, including their own home.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Thermostat_control_activity_v12_wDmxjY.png
}}
{{Notes
|Notes=<translate></translate>
}}
{{PageLang
|Language=en
|SourceLanguage=none
|IsTranslation=0
}}
{{Tuto Status
|Complete=Draft
}}

Empty room activity v12

2020-02-04T13:38:22Z

Digijeunes :

{{Tuto Details
|Main_Picture=Empty_room_activity_v12_5odJkU.png
|Main_Picture_annotation={"version":"2.4.6","objects":[{"type":"image","version":"2.4.6","originX":"left","originY":"top","left":-5,"top":-3,"width":847,"height":635,"fill":"rgb(0,0,0)","stroke":null,"strokeWidth":0,"strokeDashArray":null,"strokeLineCap":"butt","strokeDashOffset":0,"strokeLineJoin":"miter","strokeMiterLimit":4,"scaleX":0.72,"scaleY":0.72,"angle":0,"flipX":false,"flipY":false,"opacity":1,"shadow":null,"visible":true,"clipTo":null,"backgroundColor":"","fillRule":"nonzero","paintFirst":"fill","globalCompositeOperation":"source-over","transformMatrix":null,"skewX":0,"skewY":0,"crossOrigin":"","cropX":0,"cropY":0,"src":"https://wikifab.org/images/d/d4/Empty_room_activity_v12_5odJkU.png","filters":[]}],"height":449.4238156209987,"width":600}
|Description=<translate>The function of the game has often been underestimated. In the past it has been defined more as a pastime, an activity to be dedicated to only once the most important, most serious activities have been carried out. Today, however, it has taken on significant educational importance, and has been recognized as a real "right" for every child with Resolution 44/25 of 20 November 1989 by the United Nations General Assembly.</translate>
|Area=Electronics
|Type=undefined
|Difficulty=Medium
|Duration=1
|Duration-type=hour(s)
|Cost=30
|Currency=EUR (€)
}}
{{Introduction
|Introduction=<translate>What is the game?

• Game is '''rule'''.

ANY game has rules, whether written or not. In order to succeed in the game, the child must learn to respect those given rules.

Thanks to the game, therefore, the child will learn to respect the rule in a much broader sense.

• Game is '''socialization''' and '''self-expression'''.

Many scholars have shown how free and socialized play has an important and fundamental function in the development of cognitive, creative and relational skills. The games can be individual or team. The former will allow the child to create a '''contact with himself''', '''expressing his inner world''', '''his emotions''' and at the same time also c'''reating contact with the outside world and developing competition''', while the others are useful for socializing and for developing a sense of responsibility. During team play, children feel '''responsible for their actions''' compared to other members of the group.

• Game also becomes '''uncovered'''. Discovery of oneself, one's world and also discovery of the other.

• Game is '''self-control'''.

Through play, the child will learn to manage his emotions. Managing your emotions doesn't mean hiding them. An angry child has the right to be angry and to express his mood. But the same child certainly cannot throw objects on the ground or scream at others. The game becomes, therefore, an important moment in which the child can learn to manage his emotions and impulses.

• Game is '''motivatin'''g.

• Game is a '''spontaneous activit'''y. The child does not learn to play, the child spontaneously plays since his birth.

• Game is '''creativity'''. In fact, it helps the development of '''divergent thinking''', or the creative solution of problems.

And the list would be endless.

These few lines are enough to understand that the game is '''EDUCATIONAL'''.</translate>
}}
{{Materials}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Creation of the environment</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>What you need[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1HVWFDdyiLj6ORTMYcQF-VPyJCPGuPzeTj_FaKip4pS4/edit#heading=h.kft4zwyruhwh ?]

1 - A remote control device #Deedu;

2 - Environments Nodered and Blynq;

3 - A box whose purpose is to abstract the concept of the home environment.

How to create the environment

Here we have to describe how the miniature house is created, the environment to be simulated and the things you need to do it:

How to build the box[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1HVWFDdyiLj6ORTMYcQF-VPyJCPGuPzeTj_FaKip4pS4/edit#heading=h.rocl9tvc6md5 ?]

* We take a box of shoes that we no longer use;
* With the help of a pair of scissors with a rounded tip, let's cut one of the shorter sides of the box. From here we could observe inside the box itself what will be simulated;
* Let's cut the other minor side in the same way. From this we will insert the small fan;
* By inserting the device inside the box, we created our miniature room and we are ready for the experiment.

How to build the device?

For the construction of the device, consult the guide at the following link: [LINK PINTEREST].

https://studio.youtube.com/video/Kr0x0o6c8DM/edit

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEqjpMs15jo

To close everything in a wrapper, it may be useful to 3D print the suitable box whose source can be downloaded at the following link.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4062244

=== How to put precisely the[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1HVWFDdyiLj6ORTMYcQF-VPyJCPGuPzeTj_FaKip4pS4/edit#heading=h.sci31hnwrn1 Blynk app]? ===
To set up the software system via Blynk, follow the guide:

https://www.instructables.com/id/Digital-Environmental-Education-Domotics/

How to put precisely the server Nodered on Raspberry?

To set up the Nodere software system, follow the guide:

[LINK PINTEREST].</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Empty_room_activity_v12_5odJkU.png
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Environmental monitoring</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>A closed environment in which there is no one is an environment that in the vast majority of cases does not need to be illuminated or cooled. Likewise, it is often completely useless to keep many devices such as televisions, heaters or electronic consoles turned on.

From the Blynq app, we allow the user to familiarize themselves with turning on or off an electrical appliance.

The user must learn about what type of environment he is exercising control over. A bedroom, for example, does not need to be illuminated in the morning if you are at school or at work and therefore it is good to turn off the lights that may have been left on. In the same way it is easy to guess that a bathroom does not need to be heated when you are away from home.

The user will therefore have to hypothesize multiple application cases:

# Light on in a bedroom during the day or in the evening
# Heating of a bathroom day or night
# Fan in a kitchen day or night

For each scenario, it is necessary to ask the user to reflect on the need to keep a device controlled through the remote control #deedu on or off.

In this way, the user will make multiple attempts and metabolize the principles and advantages of a conscious use of electricity. In addition, remote control ensures that the user can remotely check whether home users are used correctly.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Empty_room_activity_v12_M41Kqz.png
|Step_Picture_01=Empty_room_activity_v12_BevfXR.png
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Conclusion of the activity</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>At the end of the activity it is thought to have the children elaborate a page of diary, asking them to tell the experience they have carried out by highlighting the strengths and weaknesses of the device they have used and to provide any advice to the creators.

This will serve administrators, as well as creators of the device, on multiple fronts.

It will undoubtedly be useful to creators to work on weak points, and therefore to improve.

On the other hand, it will serve as a sort of database. In fact, this diary page will be kept by the creators in an archive, in order to be always accessible.

Furthermore, if the critical issues emerge, once they are improved, the creators could think of carrying out this activity again.

Therefore, the latter becomes essential for the formation of an archive and to be able to compare the results if the activity is proposed again later.

= Results =
Sometimes we act wrongly not out of negligence or indifference towards our planet, but because some issues and some important precautions are ignored.

We adults have a moral obligation to inform children, sensitize them, allow them to have all that useful information to be a good citizen and to love their world (and here we do not focus only on the environmental aspect!)

In fact, working with children allows you to promote initiatives that aim to change the wrong lifestyles that we may have due to bad, or completely absent, information.

By carrying out this activity that strongly recalls reality, children understand that this device can really be applied in any home environment, including their own home.

The purpose of the activity is to stimulate the user to make conscious use of energy resources in the home. The abstraction of the home environment by means of the box is aimed at arousing a connection in the user's mind with a real daily case. In this way, the user assimilates the advantages of using digital technology to make more efficient use of domestic resources. The perception of greater efficiency shows the user the sense of a reduction in waste.</translate>
}}
{{Notes
|Notes=<translate></translate>
}}
{{PageLang
|Language=en
|SourceLanguage=none
|IsTranslation=0
}}
{{Tuto Status
|Complete=Draft
}}

Brightness control activity v12

2020-02-04T13:37:58Z

Digijeunes :

{{Tuto Details
|Main_Picture=Brightness_control_activity_v12_1RZafD.png
|Main_Picture_annotation={"version":"2.4.6","objects":[{"type":"image","version":"2.4.6","originX":"left","originY":"top","left":11,"top":0,"width":1024,"height":824,"fill":"rgb(0,0,0)","stroke":null,"strokeWidth":0,"strokeDashArray":null,"strokeLineCap":"butt","strokeDashOffset":0,"strokeLineJoin":"miter","strokeMiterLimit":4,"scaleX":0.55,"scaleY":0.55,"angle":0,"flipX":false,"flipY":false,"opacity":1,"shadow":null,"visible":true,"clipTo":null,"backgroundColor":"","fillRule":"nonzero","paintFirst":"fill","globalCompositeOperation":"source-over","transformMatrix":null,"skewX":0,"skewY":0,"crossOrigin":"","cropX":0,"cropY":0,"src":"https://wikifab.org/images/9/92/Brightness_control_activity_v12_1RZafD.png","filters":[]}],"height":449.81595092024537,"width":600}
|Description=<translate>The purpose of this activity is to increase the user's sensitivity to energy consumption for brightness control.</translate>
|Area=Electronics
|Type=undefined
|Difficulty=Easy
|Duration=1
|Duration-type=hour(s)
|Cost=20
|Currency=EUR (€)
}}
{{Introduction
|Introduction=<translate>This activity is designed for children over the age of 9, who are able to read and understand the indicative brightness measurements and the information that appears on the displays.

The use of electricity in the home is called "domestic consumption".

Energy efficiency is the ability to make intelligent use of resources, minimizing waste as much as possible. For example, a room that is not frequented by anyone may not need air conditioning or artificial light. Adapting the ignition or adjusting the intensity of the users of this environment allows for a more intelligent use of resources, therefore a more efficient use in which waste is reduced to a minimum.

The lower the energy loss to achieve a specific purpose, the higher the degree of energy efficiency.

Energy demand is on the rise worldwide. The situation on the energy market is heating up and energy prices are rising.

There is a strong correlation between energy demand and social tensions in the world. Furthermore, there is also a strong correlation between the massive use of mineral resources, pollution, the increase in particular of diseases, desertification and global warming.

Many of the world's most important problems are related to the use of energy. A reduction in energy demand would lead to a confusion of many global problems.

So how can we achieve energy efficiency in our living environment?

Many small steps can be taken to get better use of consumption.

The purpose of this activity is to make the user learn the main problems related to the domestic world and learn to adopt all the solutions to prevent the inefficient use of energy.</translate>
}}
{{Materials}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Creation of the environment</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>What you need[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1HVWFDdyiLj6ORTMYcQF-VPyJCPGuPzeTj_FaKip4pS4/edit#heading=h.kft4zwyruhwh ?]

1 - A remote control device #Deedu;

2 - Environments Nodered and Blynq;

3 - A box whose purpose is to abstract the concept of the home environment.

How to create the environment

Here we have to describe how the miniature house is created, the environment to be simulated and the things you need to do it:

How to build the box[https://docs.google.com/document/d/1HVWFDdyiLj6ORTMYcQF-VPyJCPGuPzeTj_FaKip4pS4/edit#heading=h.rocl9tvc6md5 ?]

* We take a box of shoes that we no longer use;
* With the help of a pair of scissors with a rounded tip, let's cut one of the shorter sides of the box. From here we could observe inside the box itself what will be simulated;
* Let's cut the other minor side in the same way. From this we will insert the small fan;
* By inserting the device inside the box, we created our miniature room and we are ready for the experiment.</translate>
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>How to build the device?</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>For the construction of the device, consult the guide at the following link:

https://www.instructables.com/id/Digital-Environmental-Education-Domotics/

It is necessary that the pcb is well soldered so that the circuits are resistant and that they do not disconnect when you are going to put everything in the box. once the pcb is finished, it will have to be positioned over the raspberry for it to be put into operation.

To check if everything works well, switch the raspberry on and insert the pcb above it. With the help of a tester you can check that all the connections have been made well, just check that the voltage reaches all the desired points. A more thorough test can then be rerun when the whole device is ready.

 </translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Brightness_control_activity_v12_1RZafD.png
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>How to put precisely the Blynk app?</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>To set up the software system via Blynk, you need to follow the link guide once again:

https://www.instructables.com/id/Digital-Environmental-Education-Domotics/

Once the application has been downloaded from the store, it is necessary to register a Blynk account by creating a profile, after which a new project must be created and a token generated. The token is an element that acts as a shared key, that is, it is a word (a token) that uniquely identifies the project and allows you to connect the device to the control terminal.

The app can be run on Android and Ios tablets and smartphones. This allows a wider audience of people to run and realize the remote controller.

The Blynk app allows you to easily customize and change the interface of the remote controller. This guide explains how to make a version of the remote controller but nothing prevents you from adding new features to make it even more useful and nice.

To close everything in a wrapper, it may be useful to 3D print the suitable box whose source can be downloaded at the following link.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4062244</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Brightness_control_activity_v12_kDgLFs.png
|Step_Picture_01=Brightness_control_activity_v12_MYor8H.png
|Step_Picture_02=Brightness_control_activity_v12_bVlked.png
|Step_Picture_03=Brightness_control_activity_v12_aQJq1u.png
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Environmental monitoring</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>To check the ambient light conditions, just follow the values that can be read on the display. Once everything is ready, the brightness value that the device measures at runtime should be readable, the value varies with the variation of the ambient brightness. If we put it outdoors on a sunny day, it will mark a decidedly high value, if we keep it in a room in the dark it will bring back a value close to zero, if not zero. By turning the usb lamp on and off, using the usb port controlled by the device, we will read a variation of the measured brightness.</translate>
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Conclusion of the activity</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>At the end of the activity it is thought to have the children elaborate a page of diary, asking them to tell the experience they have carried out by highlighting the strengths and weaknesses of the device they have used and to provide any advice to the creators.

This will serve administrators, as well as creators of the device, on multiple fronts.

It will undoubtedly be useful to creators to work on weak points, and therefore to improve.

On the other hand, it will serve as a sort of database. In fact, this diary page will be kept by the creators in an archive, in order to be always accessible.

Furthermore, if the critical issues emerge, once they are improved, the creators could think of carrying out this activity again.

Therefore, the latter becomes essential for the formation of an archive and to be able to compare the results if the activity is proposed again later.

= Results =
By carrying out this activity that strongly recalls reality, children understand that this device can really be applied in any home environment, including their own home.

At the end of the activity, the children should have refined their awareness of the environment.

The purpose of the activity is to stimulate the user to make conscious use of energy resources in the home. The abstraction of the home environment by means of the box is aimed at arousing a connection in the user's mind with a real daily case. In this way, the user assimilates the advantages of using digital technology to make more efficient use of domestic resources. The perception of greater efficiency shows the user the sense of a reduction in waste.</translate>
}}
{{Notes
|Notes=<translate></translate>
}}
{{PageLang
|Language=en
|SourceLanguage=none
|IsTranslation=0
}}
{{Tuto Status
|Complete=Draft
}}

Snap circuits activities for 9 - 11

2020-02-04T13:37:31Z

Digijeunes :

{{Tuto Details
|Main_Picture=Snap_circuits_activities_for_9_-_11_PgSJ1o.jpg
|Main_Picture_annotation={"version":"2.4.6","objects":[{"type":"image","version":"2.4.6","originX":"left","originY":"top","left":25,"top":-102,"width":1875,"height":2500,"fill":"rgb(0,0,0)","stroke":null,"strokeWidth":0,"strokeDashArray":null,"strokeLineCap":"butt","strokeDashOffset":0,"strokeLineJoin":"miter","strokeMiterLimit":4,"scaleX":0.3,"scaleY":0.3,"angle":0,"flipX":false,"flipY":false,"opacity":1,"shadow":null,"visible":true,"clipTo":null,"backgroundColor":"","fillRule":"nonzero","paintFirst":"fill","globalCompositeOperation":"source-over","transformMatrix":null,"skewX":0,"skewY":0,"crossOrigin":"","cropX":0,"cropY":0,"src":"https://wikifab.org/images/a/a1/Snap_circuits_activities_for_9_-_11_PgSJ1o.jpg","filters":[]}],"height":449.69939879759517,"width":600}
|Description=<translate>Energy efficiency and smart homes

This activity is about setting up a miniature house and maximise energy efficiency.
Kids will be integrating miniature appliances connected to snap circuits, and program the snaps via arduino.
The activity is suitable for groups of children aged 9 to 14 yo.</translate>
|Area=Electronics, House
|Type=undefined
|Difficulty=Easy
|Duration=1
|Duration-type=hour(s)
|Cost=20
|Currency=EUR (€)
}}
{{Introduction
|Introduction=<translate>First of all, let’s get clear on what energy efficiency is.

A warm living room in winter or a sports stadium brightly illuminated at night – we use energy to achieve a specific benefit. Energy efficiency is a means of measuring the energy-expenditure required to achieve a certain benefit. The lower the losses in energy to achieve a specific purpose are, the higher is the degree of energy efficiency.

Energy demand is increasing worldwide. The energy market situation is heating up and energy prices are on the rise. Instabilities in many exporting and transit countries are a cause for concern and the increased combustion of fossil energy sources is accelerating climate change. An expansion of energy supply options is costly and will take time. On the other hand, increasing energy efficiency curbs energy prices, reduces dependency on energy imports, counteracts energy distribution conflicts and cuts climate-damaging carbon dioxide emissions.

So how can we achieve energy efficiency in our own living environment?

[https://www.forbes.com/sites/houzz/2017/06/02/how-to-build-an-energy-efficient-home/#18d3c42f656b '''Consider the Known Conditions: Sun, Wind and Light''']

The orientation of your home is one of the factor that can impact on energy efficiency. Obtain a sun path diagram for your site’s location. This will help you determine the orientation of your home by giving a visual of where the sun travels in the sky throughout the day.

Generally speaking, the best tip for minimizing energy consumption is to orient the home facing south to capture solar gain in the winter and block solar gain in the summer.

So how do you read a sun path diagram?

The image above is a sun path diagram for the city of Rotterdam, in the Netherlands.

We can tell that in Rotterdam, on June 21st, at 20h, the sun is located at 310°, which is to say very close to the geographical north. On April 20th, at 18h, the sun is located at about 280°, which is to say towards the geographical west.

Also, it’s good to keep in mind that the sky is generally speaking three times brighter at the zenith than at the horizon, so if you live in a predominantly overcast area this is the perfect environment to let in that bright light from above and maximize free illumination.

Other factors to take into consideration in order to maximize energy efficiency are directly related to the appliances you use.

Here’s a few tips:

* use [https://www.ajmadison.com/learn/7-wi-fi-enabled-smart-appliances-for-a-smarter-home/ smart appliances], for example lights bulbs that go on at night and automatically turn off during the day
* use [https://www.howtogeek.com/344882/which-smart-plug-should-you-buy/ smart plugs] that can be programmed to turn on and off at specific times, that can be remotely controlled via wi-fi, or that display the energy consumption (ex. in kwh) in real time.</translate>
}}
{{Materials}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Setting up the miniature smart house</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Kids will be using arduino uno boards and snap components to work on the energy efficiency of their miniature house.

First of all, have the kids set up their miniature houses. They can build one using cardboard, or you can laser cut them in advance, using for example a 3mm thick MDF board. [https://drive.google.com/open?id=1JGQVbJy4yhH1qOw0H3IVO0c7uRhI1ZIY Here]’s the design of a miniature house, ready for laser cut.

Next, ask the participants to place at least one snap LED component inside the house.

At this stage, they will need to program the LED(s) they have installed in the house via arduino, specifically program them to go '''on during the day''' (that is if a certain light threshold is attained) and '''off at night''' (that is to say if the amount of light in the environment falls below a given threshold).

They’ll need to use an LDR in connection with the LEDs. The LDR can be mounted on a snap support, or simply used as it is.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Snap_circuits_activities_for_9_-_11_LOoHEk.png
|Step_Picture_01=Snap_circuits_activities_for_9_-_11_qB3Rue.jpg
|Step_Picture_02=Snap_circuits_activities_for_9_-_11_PgSJ1o.jpg
|Step_Picture_03=Snap_circuits_activities_for_9_-_11_NMKcwd.jpg
|Step_Picture_04=Snap_circuits_activities_for_9_-_11_IfzO3Y.jpg
|Step_Picture_05=Snap_circuits_activities_for_9_-_11_IfzO3Y.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Programming</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Instruct the kids that they need to Use[http://s4a.cat/ Scratch for Arduino] to achieve this programming part.

First of all, we need to prepare the arduino board. To do so, you need to upload the S4A firmware onto the board, via arduino IDE.

Launch Arduino IDE and open[https://drive.google.com/open?id=1B_2s0AE0ldx4IJ0XsDHHuF52odoSMUi1 this] code.

Upload the code onto the board.

Next, open Scratch for arduino and wait until the software recognizes the board.

Now program Scratch for Arduino to obtain something like this:

The Led inside the miniature house should go on if the LDR records an amount lower than 300. Otherwise it should stay off.

n.b. you can visualize in real time the amount of light detected by the LDR just by looking at analog 0 under this dialogue window

At this stage, kids can add extra appliances in their house, for example a miniature Aircon device. The main support for the miniature Aircon device can be a vibrating motor snap or an LED snap. Have them place the device inside the miniature house. Next, instruct them to use a temperature /humidity sensor to program the device so that the aircon goes on whenever the temperature rises above, say 28 degrees, or the humidity exceeds say 70%.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Snap_circuits_activities_for_9_-_11_EqGtnS.png
|Step_Picture_01=Snap_circuits_activities_for_9_-_11_CH7aa6.png
|Step_Picture_02=Snap_circuits_activities_for_9_-_11_7v4vUN.png
|Step_Picture_03=Snap_circuits_activities_for_9_-_11_L4F2P0.gif
|Step_Picture_04=Snap_circuits_activities_for_9_-_11_rnI8m0.png
}}
{{Notes
|Notes=<translate></translate>
}}
{{PageLang
|Language=en
|SourceLanguage=none
|IsTranslation=0
}}
{{Tuto Status
|Complete=Draft
}}

Snap circuits tutorial

2020-02-04T13:36:03Z

Digijeunes :

{{Tuto Details
|Description=<translate>Snap circuits are a fun support to introduce kids to circuitry and electronic prototyping. They can also be used to tackle topics related to energy saving.</translate>
|Area=House
|Type=undefined
|Difficulty=Easy
|Duration=1
|Duration-type=hour(s)
|Cost=30
|Currency=EUR (€)
}}
{{Introduction
|Introduction=<translate>In this tutorial, you will learn how to create your own snap circuits embedding electronic components of different kinds, and how to implement educational activities revolving around this support: activities on circuitry, electronic prototyping and programming, energy saving and home automation.</translate>
}}
{{Materials}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>3D printing the snap part</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>First, you will need to 3D print the snap part. The stl file ready for 3D printing is available [https://drive.google.com/open?id=1N1k6RxDnZtbSd_nBgNX-ozBYsEIFRAkR here].

You can also tweak this design on [https://www.tinkercad.com/things/kYg3F6El7xx tinkercad] and make it suitable to hold 3-legged components (ex. temperature sensor, light sensor).

A timelapse of the 3D printing process is available [https://drive.google.com/open?id=1GYF9cHVUO8Ps6hyx0DX7T5qe3AmTDtcx here].</translate>
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Putting it all together</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>A timelapse of the assembling process is available[https://drive.google.com/open?id=1rnUUoK-nNHlQ6tz8ejvt7KqQ4VmU6BSv here].

Put some hot glue around the perimeter of each hole.

Place the 2 magnets on the snap part, one per each hole. Make sure each magnet is securely fixed to the snap via the hot glue.

Next put your component into place and solder each leg onto one magnet.

You can thus create snap components containing LEDs, buzzers and vibrating motors. That’s just 3 examples, however, in principle any electronic component can be mounted on a snap support.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Snap_circuits_tutorial_ZKUuYy.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=Snap_circuits_tutorial_1JAvjN.jpg
|Step_Picture_02=Snap_circuits_tutorial_ACfRTk.jpg
|Step_Picture_03=Snap_circuits_tutorial_JZBTZY.jpg
|Step_Picture_04=Snap_circuits_tutorial_DweV0C.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Circuitry activity</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>=== List of parts ===

* several snap supports
* 1 power supply (3V should be enough)
* crocodile cables

The circuitry activity is an introduction to electricity and circuits, enabled by the snap supports.

You can use different snap parts to create simple circuits, arranged in series and parallel.

To create a simple series circuits, place two snap parts (ex. LED snap and mini dc motor snap) as pictures below. Then power the circuit by plugging a battery pack (3V is enough to power a few electronic components). one end of the circuit goes to the + of the battery pack, the other end goes to the -. Beware of the polarity of the LED (anode and cathode must be connected to positive and negative of the battery pack respectively), otherwise the LED snap won’t light up.

To create a simple parallel circuit, place two snap components as in the picture below.

Then power the circuit by plugging the ends of one snap part to a battery pack. Again, beware of the polarity of the LED snap. Connect the anode to the + of the battery pack, the cathode to the -.</translate>
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Electronic prototyping and coding activity</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>== List of parts ==
- 1x Arduino board (arduino Uno or nano or any other version are Ok) + USB power cable

- crocodile cables

- jumper wires (male-male)

- snap components

In this activity, you'll be using the snap components to build an electronic system and subsequently program it via a visual coding software.

[http://www.mblock.cc/mblock-software/ Download ]mBlock 3, not the latest version.

You can plug the snap components to the arduino board, as if it were regular electronic components. Remember that some components (ex. LED) have polarity, so make sure to connect the anode with a digital pin and the cathode to GND.

Try for example to have a snap Led blink.

First of all, wire the snap component to the arduino board, and plug the board to your pc.

Next, launch mBlock, select the board that you re using under “Boards”, and connect to it by clicking on “Connect” and selecting the correct port (in the example below COM47).

Move the available programming blocks around to obtain this:

We’ve connected the Led snap to pin 13, if you choose a different pin don’t forget to select the correct pin in the code too.

To launch the program just hit the Green Flag.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Snap_circuits_tutorial_EPZXuz.png
|Step_Picture_01=Snap_circuits_tutorial_1GfdRh.png
|Step_Picture_02=Snap_circuits_tutorial_JltJIj.png
|Step_Picture_03=Snap_circuits_tutorial_cb4Los.gif
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Home automation and energy saving</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Snap components can be used to run activities on connect objects. It is possible for example to arrange miniature electrical appliances in a miniature house, and control them remotely. Being able to remotely control one s appliances gives the user the obvious advantage of being able to choosing when they're running and when they aren’t, thus contributing to saving energy and making the miniature house as energy efficient as possible.

We've designed a number of 3D printable miniature electronic appliances that can be placed on top of a snap component. You can for example imagine to place the miniature oven on top of a Led or a miniature 3D printer on top of a mini vibrating motor snap, thus emulating real-life operations of those appliances.

Find all appliances available for 3D printing by clicking on the links below:

[https://www.tinkercad.com/things/19z9iWwMX9D snap circuit tv]

[https://www.tinkercad.com/things/1kc7bwwslfM snap circuit stove]

[https://www.tinkercad.com/things/aWJvvLtCv3l snap circuit 3D printer]

[https://www.tinkercad.com/things/hOn9rpUe0KG snap circuit mixer]

[https://www.tinkercad.com/things/8KBDzjnKgnj snap circuit washing machine]

This activity will require the Blynk application. So, first download [https://blynk.io/en/getting-started Blynk] on your smartphone.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Snap_circuits_tutorial_C0y6CQ.gif
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Create a new project in the Blynk app</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>After you’ve successfully logged into your account, start by creating a new project.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Snap_circuits_tutorial_3AR0UG.png
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Choose Your Hardware</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Select the hardware model you will use. If you are following this tutorial you ll probably be using an ESP32 board.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Snap_circuits_tutorial_crZ4IL.png
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Auth Token</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>'''Auth Token''' is a unique identifier which is needed to connect your hardware to your smartphone. Every new project you create will have its own Auth Token. You’ll get Auth Token automatically on your email after project creation. You can also copy it manually. Click on devices section and selected required device:

And you’ll see token :</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Snap_circuits_tutorial_6QAZo5.png
|Step_Picture_01=Snap_circuits_tutorial_ZjYxmN.png
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Program the ESP32 board</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Head to [https://examples.blynk.cc/?board=ESP32&shield=ESP32%20WiFi&example=GettingStarted%2FBlynkBlink this ]website, select your hardware, the connection mode (ex. wi-fi) and choose the Blynk Blink example.

Copy the code and paste it on Arduino IDE (prior to that, make sure you select the correct board and the correct port - under “Tools”-).

Replace “YourAuthtoken” with the token available on the app, replace “YourNetworkName” and “YourPassword” with your wi-fi credentials.

Finally, upload the code onto the board.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Snap_circuits_tutorial_sR0F6Q.png
|Step_Picture_01=Snap_circuits_tutorial_n1LgNe.png
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Set up the Blynk app</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>In your Blynk project, choose button widgets, as many buttons as you have snaps to control remotely. In our example we’ll add two buttons widgets since we have two snap parts to control (both are LEDs).

Next select the first button and, under output, choose the port to which one of your snap is connected to the ESP32 board (ex. GP4). Make sure to have 0 and 1 next to GP4, just like in the picture below. You can also choose whether the button will function in mush or switch mode.

Do the same for the second button, only this time connect to the relevant ESP32 pin (ex. GP2).

Finally, launch the app by clicking on the Play symbol. If everything goes OK, you ll be notified that your project is online, and you shall be able to remotely control your snaps.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Snap_circuits_tutorial_nU2uDu.png
|Step_Picture_01=Snap_circuits_tutorial_LLAX5e.png
|Step_Picture_02=Snap_circuits_tutorial_ZtNyXQ.png
}}
{{Notes
|Notes=<translate>== List of parts ==
1x [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1N1k6RxDnZtbSd_nBgNX-ozBYsEIFRAkR/view?usp=sharing 3D printed snap support]

1x electronic component (ex. Led, buzzer, mini vibrating motor)

2x [https://www.banggood.com/Effetool-10pcs-12mmx6mm-Cylinder-Magnet-Round-Rare-Earth-Neodymium-Magnet-p-1304985.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN 12x6mm magnets]</translate>
}}
{{PageLang
|Language=en
|SourceLanguage=none
|IsTranslation=0
}}
{{Tuto Status
|Complete=Draft
}}

Geiger counter 9-11

2020-02-04T13:28:56Z

Digijeunes :

{{Tuto Details
|Main_Picture=Geiger_counter_EM5Kxv.png
|Main_Picture_annotation={"version":"2.4.6","objects":[{"type":"image","version":"2.4.6","originX":"left","originY":"top","left":-17,"top":-53,"width":1006,"height":994,"fill":"rgb(0,0,0)","stroke":null,"strokeWidth":0,"strokeDashArray":null,"strokeLineCap":"butt","strokeDashOffset":0,"strokeLineJoin":"miter","strokeMiterLimit":4,"scaleX":0.63,"scaleY":0.63,"angle":0,"flipX":false,"flipY":false,"opacity":1,"shadow":null,"visible":true,"clipTo":null,"backgroundColor":"","fillRule":"nonzero","paintFirst":"fill","globalCompositeOperation":"source-over","transformMatrix":null,"skewX":0,"skewY":0,"crossOrigin":"","cropX":0,"cropY":0,"src":"https://wikifab.org/images/3/38/Geiger_counter_EM5Kxv.png","filters":[]}],"height":449.4661921708185,"width":600}
|Description=<translate>In this tutorial you will learn how to assemble a nuclear radiation detector
You can purchase the Geiger Counter Kit here
https://www.banggood.com/Assembled-DIY-Geiger-Counter-Kit-Module-Miller-Tube-GM-Tube-Nuclear-Radiation-Detector-p-1136883.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN</translate>
|Area=Energy
|Type=undefined
|Difficulty=Medium
|Duration=1
|Duration-type=hour(s)
|Cost=50
|Currency=EUR (€)
}}
{{Introduction
|Introduction=<translate>A Geiger counter is an instrument used for detecting and measuring ionizing radiation. Also known as a Geiger–Mueller counter (or Geiger–Müller counter), it is widely used in applications such as radiation dosimetry, radiological protection, experimental physics, and the nuclear industry.

Geiger counters are used to detect radioactive emissions, most commonly beta particles and gamma rays. The counter consists of a tube filled with an inert gas that becomes conductive of electricity when it is impacted by a high-energy particle.</translate>
}}
{{Materials}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>What is radiation?</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>https://world-nuclear.org/nuclear-basics/what-is-radiation.aspx

Radiation is energy travelling through space.

Sunshine is one of the most familiar forms of radiation. It delivers light, heat and suntans. While enjoying and depending on it, we control our exposure to it.

Beyond ultraviolet radiation from the sun are higher-energy kinds of radiation which are used in medicine and which we all get in low doses from space, from the air, and from the earth and rocks.</translate>
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Radiation sources in daily life</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate><nowiki>https://www.euradcom.org/top-5-sources-of-radiation-in-everyday-life/</nowiki>

#'''''Television'''''

The average American over the age of 2 watches 4.5 hours of TV daily. The electrical conductivity in TV sets and computer monitors gives off a minimal amount of X-rays: 1 mrem per year to the typical consumer. However, there are more urgent health hazards such as obesity if you pass several hours per day immobile in front of a screen.

#'''''Radon'''''

A colorless, odorless gas given off by decaying uranium seeps into the foundation of one out of 15 American homes and takes up residency in their basements. Luckily, you can test your house for high levels of radon and take the necessary steps to protect your family from this gas by consulting[http://www.epa.gov www.epa.gov].

#'''''Medical Imaging'''''

Obviously one does not undergo medical imaging procedures on a daily basis, but as the most common source of exposure for Americans beyond normal background radiation, medical imaging bodes mentioning. Medical imaging procedures such as dental or chest X-rays send 10 mrem to the patient. Mammograms log in at 138 mrem per image, and CT scans can deliver up to 1,000. An even higher dosage procedure, the colonography, produces 10,000 mrem, which increases your risk of cancer by 1%. However, if your doctor recommends any of these procedures, you’re better off taking the radiation risk than declining the procedure.

#'''''Cell phones'''''

Cell phones emit radiofrequency waves, a non-ionizing form of radiation, albeit at a low enough dose that there are no established health effects.

Here you can find out more about[https://www.theverge.com/2018/4/5/17202600/cell-phone-radiation-cancer-national-toxicology-program-wireless-health-effect-fears how to avoid radiation from cell phones].

#'''''Smoking'''''

It should come as no surprise that cigarettes causes health problems even beyond the carcinogens in the tar component of smoke your body takes in with each inhale. Heavy smokers increase their radiation exposure by 870 mrem per year – more than doubling or even tripling their exposure compared to non-smokers.

Keep in mind that most these quotidian objects and personal habits expose you to what, in the end, is a minimal amount of radiation. To learn more about the sources and risks of radiation, consult the International Atomic Energy Agency’s findings on[https://www.iaea.org/Publications/Factsheets/English/radlife radiation in everyday life].</translate>
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Using the geiger counter with an arduino</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Connect the P3 Pin GND, 5V, VIN to arduino GND, 5V, Digital 2 respectively.

Open the serial port window by clicking on the scope on the upper right corner.

Then we’ll get the radiation value displayed in CPM, counter per minutes which could be

converted to uSv/h with the index 151(151CPM=1uSv/h for M4011 GM Tube).</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Geiger_counter_4CCBYt.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=Geiger_counter_0VVqq4.jpg
|Step_Picture_02=Geiger_counter_22GGJ3.jpg
|Step_Picture_03=Geiger_counter_Zpb69Y.jpg
|Step_Picture_04=Geiger_counter_ev0EPm.png
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Risk of radiation</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>https://fr.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?hspart=ddc&hsimp=yhs-linuxmint&type=__alt__ddc_linuxmint_com&p=dangerous+dose+of+radiation

https://www.reuters.com/article/us-how-much-radiation-dangerous-idUSTRE72E79Z20110315

<nowiki>*</nowiki> There is documented evidence associating an accumulated dose from two or three CT scans with an increased risk of cancer. The evidence is reasonably convincing for adults and very convincing for children.

<nowiki>*</nowiki> Large doses of radiation or acute radiation exposure destroys the central nervous system, red and white blood cells, which compromises the immune system, leaving the victim unable to fight off infections.

For example, a single one sievert (1,000 mSv) dose causes radiation sickness such as nausea, vomiting, hemorrhaging, but not death. A single dose of 5 sieverts would kill about half of those exposed to it within a month.

<nowiki>*</nowiki> Exposure to 350 mSv was the criterion for relocating people after the Chernobyl accident, according to the World Nuclear Association.</translate>
}}
{{Notes
|Notes=<translate>Package included:

1 x Assembled Radiation Detector system

1 x GM Tube

1 x Power supply cable

1 x Battery Holder (without batteries)

3 x Jumper Wires

4 x Nuts

1 x Acrylic cover</translate>
}}
{{PageLang
|Language=en
|SourceLanguage=none
|IsTranslation=0
}}
{{Tuto Status
|Complete=Draft
}}

Geiger counter 9-11

2020-02-04T13:28:29Z

Digijeunes :

{{Tuto Details
|Main_Picture=Geiger_counter_EM5Kxv.png
|Main_Picture_annotation={"version":"2.4.6","objects":[{"type":"image","version":"2.4.6","originX":"left","originY":"top","left":-17,"top":-53,"width":1006,"height":994,"fill":"rgb(0,0,0)","stroke":null,"strokeWidth":0,"strokeDashArray":null,"strokeLineCap":"butt","strokeDashOffset":0,"strokeLineJoin":"miter","strokeMiterLimit":4,"scaleX":0.63,"scaleY":0.63,"angle":0,"flipX":false,"flipY":false,"opacity":1,"shadow":null,"visible":true,"clipTo":null,"backgroundColor":"","fillRule":"nonzero","paintFirst":"fill","globalCompositeOperation":"source-over","transformMatrix":null,"skewX":0,"skewY":0,"crossOrigin":"","cropX":0,"cropY":0,"src":"https://wikifab.org/images/3/38/Geiger_counter_EM5Kxv.png","filters":[]}],"height":449.4661921708185,"width":600}
|Description=<translate>In this tutorial you will learn how to assemble a nuclear radiation detector
You can purchase the Geiger Counter Kit here
https://www.banggood.com/Assembled-DIY-Geiger-Counter-Kit-Module-Miller-Tube-GM-Tube-Nuclear-Radiation-Detector-p-1136883.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN</translate>
|Area=Energy
|Type=undefined
|Difficulty=Very easy
|Duration=1
|Duration-type=minute(s)
|Cost=1
|Currency=EUR (€)
}}
{{Introduction
|Introduction=<translate>A Geiger counter is an instrument used for detecting and measuring ionizing radiation. Also known as a Geiger–Mueller counter (or Geiger–Müller counter), it is widely used in applications such as radiation dosimetry, radiological protection, experimental physics, and the nuclear industry.

Geiger counters are used to detect radioactive emissions, most commonly beta particles and gamma rays. The counter consists of a tube filled with an inert gas that becomes conductive of electricity when it is impacted by a high-energy particle.</translate>
}}
{{Materials}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>What is radiation?</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>https://world-nuclear.org/nuclear-basics/what-is-radiation.aspx

Radiation is energy travelling through space.

Sunshine is one of the most familiar forms of radiation. It delivers light, heat and suntans. While enjoying and depending on it, we control our exposure to it.

Beyond ultraviolet radiation from the sun are higher-energy kinds of radiation which are used in medicine and which we all get in low doses from space, from the air, and from the earth and rocks.</translate>
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Radiation sources in daily life</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate><nowiki>https://www.euradcom.org/top-5-sources-of-radiation-in-everyday-life/</nowiki>

#'''''Television'''''

The average American over the age of 2 watches 4.5 hours of TV daily. The electrical conductivity in TV sets and computer monitors gives off a minimal amount of X-rays: 1 mrem per year to the typical consumer. However, there are more urgent health hazards such as obesity if you pass several hours per day immobile in front of a screen.

#'''''Radon'''''

A colorless, odorless gas given off by decaying uranium seeps into the foundation of one out of 15 American homes and takes up residency in their basements. Luckily, you can test your house for high levels of radon and take the necessary steps to protect your family from this gas by consulting[http://www.epa.gov www.epa.gov].

#'''''Medical Imaging'''''

Obviously one does not undergo medical imaging procedures on a daily basis, but as the most common source of exposure for Americans beyond normal background radiation, medical imaging bodes mentioning. Medical imaging procedures such as dental or chest X-rays send 10 mrem to the patient. Mammograms log in at 138 mrem per image, and CT scans can deliver up to 1,000. An even higher dosage procedure, the colonography, produces 10,000 mrem, which increases your risk of cancer by 1%. However, if your doctor recommends any of these procedures, you’re better off taking the radiation risk than declining the procedure.

#'''''Cell phones'''''

Cell phones emit radiofrequency waves, a non-ionizing form of radiation, albeit at a low enough dose that there are no established health effects.

Here you can find out more about[https://www.theverge.com/2018/4/5/17202600/cell-phone-radiation-cancer-national-toxicology-program-wireless-health-effect-fears how to avoid radiation from cell phones].

#'''''Smoking'''''

It should come as no surprise that cigarettes causes health problems even beyond the carcinogens in the tar component of smoke your body takes in with each inhale. Heavy smokers increase their radiation exposure by 870 mrem per year – more than doubling or even tripling their exposure compared to non-smokers.

Keep in mind that most these quotidian objects and personal habits expose you to what, in the end, is a minimal amount of radiation. To learn more about the sources and risks of radiation, consult the International Atomic Energy Agency’s findings on[https://www.iaea.org/Publications/Factsheets/English/radlife radiation in everyday life].</translate>
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Using the geiger counter with an arduino</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Connect the P3 Pin GND, 5V, VIN to arduino GND, 5V, Digital 2 respectively.

Open the serial port window by clicking on the scope on the upper right corner.

Then we’ll get the radiation value displayed in CPM, counter per minutes which could be

converted to uSv/h with the index 151(151CPM=1uSv/h for M4011 GM Tube).</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Geiger_counter_4CCBYt.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=Geiger_counter_0VVqq4.jpg
|Step_Picture_02=Geiger_counter_22GGJ3.jpg
|Step_Picture_03=Geiger_counter_Zpb69Y.jpg
|Step_Picture_04=Geiger_counter_ev0EPm.png
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Risk of radiation</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>https://fr.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?hspart=ddc&hsimp=yhs-linuxmint&type=__alt__ddc_linuxmint_com&p=dangerous+dose+of+radiation

https://www.reuters.com/article/us-how-much-radiation-dangerous-idUSTRE72E79Z20110315

<nowiki>*</nowiki> There is documented evidence associating an accumulated dose from two or three CT scans with an increased risk of cancer. The evidence is reasonably convincing for adults and very convincing for children.

<nowiki>*</nowiki> Large doses of radiation or acute radiation exposure destroys the central nervous system, red and white blood cells, which compromises the immune system, leaving the victim unable to fight off infections.

For example, a single one sievert (1,000 mSv) dose causes radiation sickness such as nausea, vomiting, hemorrhaging, but not death. A single dose of 5 sieverts would kill about half of those exposed to it within a month.

<nowiki>*</nowiki> Exposure to 350 mSv was the criterion for relocating people after the Chernobyl accident, according to the World Nuclear Association.</translate>
}}
{{Notes
|Notes=<translate>Package included:

1 x Assembled Radiation Detector system

1 x GM Tube

1 x Power supply cable

1 x Battery Holder (without batteries)

3 x Jumper Wires

4 x Nuts

1 x Acrylic cover</translate>
}}
{{PageLang
|Language=en
|SourceLanguage=none
|IsTranslation=0
}}
{{Tuto Status
|Complete=Draft
}}

Geiger counter 12+

2020-02-04T13:27:26Z

Digijeunes :

{{Tuto Details
|Main_Picture=Geiger_counter_EM5Kxv.png
|Main_Picture_annotation={"version":"2.4.6","objects":[{"type":"image","version":"2.4.6","originX":"left","originY":"top","left":-27,"top":-25,"width":1006,"height":994,"fill":"rgb(0,0,0)","stroke":null,"strokeWidth":0,"strokeDashArray":null,"strokeLineCap":"butt","strokeDashOffset":0,"strokeLineJoin":"miter","strokeMiterLimit":4,"scaleX":0.64,"scaleY":0.64,"angle":0,"flipX":false,"flipY":false,"opacity":1,"shadow":null,"visible":true,"clipTo":null,"backgroundColor":"","fillRule":"nonzero","paintFirst":"fill","globalCompositeOperation":"source-over","transformMatrix":null,"skewX":0,"skewY":0,"crossOrigin":"","cropX":0,"cropY":0,"src":"https://wikifab.org/images/3/38/Geiger_counter_EM5Kxv.png","filters":[]}],"height":449.7257769652651,"width":600}
|Description=<translate>In this tutorial you will learn how to assemble a nuclear radiation detector
You can purchase the Geiger Counter Kit here</translate>
|Area=Electronics
|Type=undefined
|Difficulty=Medium
|Duration=1
|Duration-type=hour(s)
|Cost=50
|Currency=EUR (€)
}}
{{Introduction
|Introduction=<translate>A Geiger counter is an instrument used for detecting and measuring ionizing radiation. Also known as a Geiger–Mueller counter (or Geiger–Müller counter), it is widely used in applications such as radiation dosimetry, radiological protection, experimental physics, and the nuclear industry.

Geiger counters are used to detect radioactive emissions, most commonly beta particles and gamma rays. The counter consists of a tube filled with an inert gas that becomes conductive of electricity when it is impacted by a high-energy particle.</translate>
}}
{{TutoVideo
|VideoType=Youtube
|VideoURLYoutube=https://youtu.be/ImHbKBu3xus
}}
{{Materials}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>What is radiation?</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>https://world-nuclear.org/nuclear-basics/what-is-radiation.aspx

Radiation is energy travelling through space.

Sunshine is one of the most familiar forms of radiation. It delivers light, heat and suntans. While enjoying and depending on it, we control our exposure to it.

Beyond ultraviolet radiation from the sun are higher-energy kinds of radiation which are used in medicine and which we all get in low doses from space, from the air, and from the earth and rocks.</translate>
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Radiation sources in daily life</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate><nowiki>https://www.euradcom.org/top-5-sources-of-radiation-in-everyday-life/</nowiki>

# '''''Television'''''

The average American over the age of 2 watches 4.5 hours of TV daily. The electrical conductivity in TV sets and computer monitors gives off a minimal amount of X-rays: 1 mrem per year to the typical consumer. However, there are more urgent health hazards such as obesity if you pass several hours per day immobile in front of a screen.

# '''''Radon'''''

A colorless, odorless gas given off by decaying uranium seeps into the foundation of one out of 15 American homes and takes up residency in their basements. Luckily, you can test your house for high levels of radon and take the necessary steps to protect your family from this gas by consulting[http://www.epa.gov www.epa.gov].

# '''''Medical Imaging'''''

Obviously one does not undergo medical imaging procedures on a daily basis, but as the most common source of exposure for Americans beyond normal background radiation, medical imaging bodes mentioning. Medical imaging procedures such as dental or chest X-rays send 10 mrem to the patient. Mammograms log in at 138 mrem per image, and CT scans can deliver up to 1,000. An even higher dosage procedure, the colonography, produces 10,000 mrem, which increases your risk of cancer by 1%. However, if your doctor recommends any of these procedures, you’re better off taking the radiation risk than declining the procedure.

# '''''Cell phones'''''

Cell phones emit radiofrequency waves, a non-ionizing form of radiation, albeit at a low enough dose that there are no established health effects.

Here you can find out more about[https://www.theverge.com/2018/4/5/17202600/cell-phone-radiation-cancer-national-toxicology-program-wireless-health-effect-fears how to avoid radiation from cell phones].

# '''''Smoking'''''

It should come as no surprise that cigarettes causes health problems even beyond the carcinogens in the tar component of smoke your body takes in with each inhale. Heavy smokers increase their radiation exposure by 870 mrem per year – more than doubling or even tripling their exposure compared to non-smokers.

Keep in mind that most these quotidian objects and personal habits expose you to what, in the end, is a minimal amount of radiation. To learn more about the sources and risks of radiation, consult the International Atomic Energy Agency’s findings on[https://www.iaea.org/Publications/Factsheets/English/radlife radiation in everyday life].</translate>
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Soldering the geiger counter</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>A timelapse of the assembly process of an EMI probe based on arduino nano</translate>
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Using the geiger counter with an arduino</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Connect the P3 Pin GND, 5V, VIN to arduino GND, 5V, Digital 2 respectively.

Then in the arduino software open the file: spi_rad_logger.ino which you could find here

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1BBhsOjpKFHZ5vheR6OtunmriIw6JLzbc

Be sure to change the Serial.print(cpm) command to Serial.println(cpm) in the void loop(){} for better readability.

Download the program and open the serial port window by clicking on the scope on the upper right corner.

Then we’ll get the radiation value displayed in CPM, counter per minutes which could be

converted to uSv/h with the index 151(151CPM=1uSv/h).</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Geiger_counter_4CCBYt.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=Geiger_counter_0VVqq4.jpg
|Step_Picture_02=Geiger_counter_22GGJ3.jpg
|Step_Picture_03=Geiger_counter_Zpb69Y.jpg
|Step_Picture_04=Geiger_counter_fYSjCf.png
|Step_Picture_05=Geiger_counter_ev0EPm.png
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Risk of radiation</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>https://fr.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?hspart=ddc&hsimp=yhs-linuxmint&type=__alt__ddc_linuxmint_com&p=dangerous+dose+of+radiation

https://www.reuters.com/article/us-how-much-radiation-dangerous-idUSTRE72E79Z20110315

People are exposed to natural radiation of 2-3 mSv a year.

<nowiki>*</nowiki> In a CT scan, the organ being studied typically receives a radiation dose of 15 mSv in an adult to 30 mSv in a newborn infant.

Advertisement

A typical chest X-ray involves exposure of about 0.02 mSv, while a dental one can be 0.01 mSv.

<nowiki>*</nowiki> Exposure to 100 mSv a year is the lowest level at which any increase in cancer risk is clearly evident. A cumulative 1,000 mSv (1 sievert) would probably cause a fatal cancer many years later in five out of every 100 persons exposed to it.

<nowiki>*</nowiki> There is documented evidence associating an accumulated dose of 90 mSv from two or three CT scans with an increased risk of cancer. The evidence is reasonably convincing for adults and very convincing for children.

<nowiki>*</nowiki> Large doses of radiation or acute radiation exposure destroys the central nervous system, red and white blood cells, which compromises the immune system, leaving the victim unable to fight off infections.

For example, a single one sievert (1,000 mSv) dose causes radiation sickness such as nausea, vomiting, hemorrhaging, but not death. A single dose of 5 sieverts would kill about half of those exposed to it within a month.

<nowiki>*</nowiki> Exposure to 350 mSv was the criterion for relocating people after the Chernobyl accident, according to the World Nuclear Association.</translate>
}}
{{Notes
|Notes=<translate>Description:

Name:Radiation Detector system

Geiger tube parameters:

Technical parameters diameter:Φ10±0.5mm

Total length: 90±2mm

Starting voltage: < 350V

Recommended operating voltage: 380V

Minimum plateau length: 80V

Maximum plateau slope: 10%/80V

Extreme operating voltage: 550V

The maximum count rate: 25 times / min

Life: > 1 x 10^9 pulse

Medium temperature: -40 ~ 55 ℃

Size:108x63x20mm

Infos:

https://www.banggood.com/Assembled-DIY-Geiger-Counter-Kit-Module-Miller-Tube-GM-Tube-Nuclear-Radiation-Detector-p-1136883.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B9itH-BnWE5sY2JGRkM4MWhSYkE&usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B9itH-BnWE5sY2JGRkM4MWhSYkE

Features:

1) 5V power supply, or 1.5V 3x battery; 1.2V 4x battery, current: 30mA - 12mA

2) for the detection of 20mR/h ~ 120mR/h of gamma rays and 100 ~ 1800 off

variables / points / cm 2 of the soft beta ray.

3) sound and light alarm

4) interrupt the output interface, through this interface can be connected to the

microcontroller and then displayed on the LCD.

5) Ardunio compatible

6) supports most of the Geiger tube: M4011, STS-5, SBM20, J305, etc. (the

330~600V operating voltage of the Geiger tube can be supported).

7) support the computer (PC) data acquisition, Matlab analysis and processing

Detection of nuclear radiation work (copy the following link to the browser to watch):

[http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XNzI3MTU2NzQ0.html Http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XNzI3MTU2NzQ0.html]

Customers using our Geiger counter to record the video:

[http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XOTE4ODIyNTIw.html Http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XOTE4ODIyNTIw.html]

Compatible with Arduino:

(recommended UNO R3 Arduino, or any other arbitrary with 5V and external interrupt INT)

Internet can be downloaded: SPI example for Radiation Logger Arduino

Logger Radiation can be used as the host computer software to build radiation monitoring station.

Package included:

1 x Assembled Radiation Detector system

1 x GM Tube

1 x Power supply cable

1 x Battery Holder (without batteries)

3 x Jumper Wires

4 x Nuts

1 x Acrylic cover</translate>
}}
{{PageLang
|Language=en
|SourceLanguage=none
|IsTranslation=0
}}
{{Tuto Status
|Complete=Draft
}}

Geiger counter

2020-02-04T13:26:26Z

Digijeunes :

Connected weather station 12+ activities

2020-02-04T13:17:27Z

Digijeunes :

{{Tuto Details
|Main_Picture=Connected_weather_station_9-11_activities_GmN2ye.jpg
|Main_Picture_annotation={"version":"2.4.6","objects":[{"type":"image","version":"2.4.6","originX":"left","originY":"top","left":-13,"top":-112,"width":1875,"height":2500,"fill":"rgb(0,0,0)","stroke":null,"strokeWidth":0,"strokeDashArray":null,"strokeLineCap":"butt","strokeDashOffset":0,"strokeLineJoin":"miter","strokeMiterLimit":4,"scaleX":0.33,"scaleY":0.33,"angle":0,"flipX":false,"flipY":false,"opacity":1,"shadow":null,"visible":true,"clipTo":null,"backgroundColor":"","fillRule":"nonzero","paintFirst":"fill","globalCompositeOperation":"source-over","transformMatrix":null,"skewX":0,"skewY":0,"crossOrigin":"","cropX":0,"cropY":0,"src":"https://wikifab.org/images/4/42/Connected_weather_station_9-11_activities_GmN2ye.jpg","filters":[]}],"height":449.66740576496676,"width":600}
|Description=<translate>In this activity, participants will set up their weather station, sent it up in the air, and monitor the recordings (light, temperature, humidity) in real time via the Blynk app. On top of all this, you will learn how to publish the values recorded by your weather station on a shared online map.</translate>
|Area=Electronics, Machines and Tools
|Type=undefined
|Difficulty=Medium
|Duration=1
|Duration-type=hour(s)
|Cost=20
|Currency=EUR (€)
}}
{{Introduction
|Introduction=<translate></translate>
}}
{{Materials
|Prerequisites={{Prerequisites
|Prerequisites=Connected weather station
}}{{Prerequisites}}
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Setting up the weather station</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Follow the instructions on page 1-4 on [https://docs.google.com/document/d/1-vYvPHrhgW4SdtgnfV-NSKyZqliaPFgTpFc4Ti0uxh4/edit?usp=sharing this ]tutorial.</translate>
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Monitoring the values recorded by the station via Blynk</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Follow the instructions on page 4-8 on [https://docs.google.com/document/d/1-vYvPHrhgW4SdtgnfV-NSKyZqliaPFgTpFc4Ti0uxh4/edit?usp=sharing this ]tutorial.</translate>
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Setting up the flying station</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>In order to send your weather station up in the air, first of all you ll need to engineer a system similar to that of a hot air balloon.

Create a case to accommodate the weather station. This can be made of cardboard or any other material, as long as the weight is not too significant. Beware that helium balloons can only lift very light masses.

Once you've secured the weather station to the case, attach the former to the helium balloons. You may need to use multiple balloons in order to be able to lift the weather station off the ground.

Don’t forget to tie some nylon wire to the flying system so that you ll be able to take it back to the ground at any time.</translate>
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Plotting the values recorded by the station on UMap</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>You will be sharing the data recorded by your water probe on UMap, which allows users to create their own maps embedding the data of their choice.

First, head to https://umap.openstreetmap.fr/fr/

You ll need to create an account to be able to edit your own maps.

Once you have successfully logged in, hit the “Create a map” button.

You can now draw markers and enter any description you wish to publish.

Let’s add a marker featuring the recordings of the weather station above Cedar Lake, in Minneapolis.

Today the temperature in the air above Cedar Lake is 26° Celsius and the humidity is 90%. Indeed, it is raining!

Once you’re done, hit the Save button.

To share this map with anyone, you just need to provide them with the appropriate link.

Go to Update permissions and editors.

You can choose who can view and who can edit this map.

To enable editors to edit the map, copy the link of your map (the web address of your map) and share it with whoever you want.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Connected_weather_station_12__activities_0YbEOG.png
|Step_Picture_01=Connected_weather_station_12__activities_LORSfQ.png
|Step_Picture_02=Connected_weather_station_12__activities_aDyPgw.png
|Step_Picture_03=Connected_weather_station_12__activities_imb6jq.png
|Step_Picture_04=Connected_weather_station_12__activities_9jx4Pr.png
}}
{{Notes
|Notes=<translate>= List of parts =
1x ESP32 weather station

[https://www.amazon.fr/Trend-World-Bouteille-dh%C3%A9lium-Anniversaire-bonbonne/dp/B07WC5BGB5/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?__mk_fr_FR=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=VKKH8988HAGC&keywords=ballons+helium+mariage&qid=1565733471&s=gateway&sprefix=ballons+helium+%2Caps%2C859&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzODBRMUpQTUxYWEtMJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTM3OTY2MzRLSzlCWFhFMlhXNSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTU3MzYxMjRMNVBOS0xXNkg4USZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= 1x helium bottle]

1x nylon wire bobbin</translate>
}}
{{PageLang
|Language=en
|SourceLanguage=none
|IsTranslation=0
}}
{{Tuto Status
|Complete=Draft
}}

Connected weather station

2020-02-04T13:16:44Z

Digijeunes :

{{Tuto Details
|Main_Picture=Connected_weather_station_Dtmwno.jpg
|Description=<translate>In this tutorial you will learn how to set up a weather station based on ESP32, and how to monitor its readings remotely, via the Blynk app as well as via a website.</translate>
|Area=Electronics, Machines and Tools
|Type=undefined
|Difficulty=Medium
|Duration=1
|Duration-type=hour(s)
|Cost=50
|Currency=EUR (€)
}}
{{Introduction
|Introduction=<translate></translate>
}}
{{TutoVideo
|VideoType=Youtube
|VideoURLYoutube=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKgXfvrhloc
}}
{{Materials}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Wiring up the components</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Connect the sensors as follows:

'''Light sensor'''

One end to 3V

the other end to the 10kohm resistor which in turn is connected to GND. the same end of the LDR is also connected to pin D34 on the ESP32

'''CJMCU CCS811'''

3V →3V on the ESP32 board

GND→ GND

SDA→D21 pin on ESP32

SCL→D22 pin on ESP32

WAKE→GND

'''DHT11'''

GND→GND on ESP32

VCC→3V on ESP32

OUT→D34 on ESP32</translate>
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Program the ESP32 board</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Launch Arduino IDE.

Select your ESP32 board from the Tools menu.

Make sure you’ve also selected the correct Port.

Upload [https://drive.google.com/open?id=1cJTsCccgTtVn3zT6zCZIEEnjCDQtw5LQ this ]code on to the board.

If you open the serial monitor (set the baud rate to 9600), you should be able to view the values recorded by the different sensors.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Connected_weather_station_dShVAV.png
|Step_Picture_01=Connected_weather_station_4lc2BC.png
|Step_Picture_02=Connected_weather_station_oMZFcW.png
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Monitor the weather station remotely via Blynk App</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Blynk app enables us to monitor the values recorded by the weather station remotely, directly on our smartphone, regardless our distance from the weather station.

All we need is the blynk app and an internet connection. In this project you’ll learn how to monitor the values recorded by the LDR sensor and the DHT11 sensor only.

== Create a new project in the Blynk app ==
After you’ve download the app and you’ve successfully logged into your account, start by creating a new project.

== Choose Your Hardware ==
Select the hardware model you will use. If you are following this tutorial you ll probably be using an ESP32 board.

== Auth Token ==
'''Auth Token''' is a unique identifier which is needed to connect your hardware to your smartphone. Every new project you create will have its own Auth Token. You’ll get Auth Token automatically on your email after project creation. You can also copy it manually. Click on devices section and selected required device:

And you’ll see token :

== Set up the Blynk app ==
You will need to create a project on blynk which is tailored for the purpose of monitoring the parameters recorded by the weather station.

Grab 3 value display widgets.

Configure them one by one. The first will receive V6 as input, the second V5 and the third V0. You ll notice that they re all set to push mode.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Connected_weather_station_JurY5X.png
|Step_Picture_01=Connected_weather_station_8tn78Q.png
|Step_Picture_02=Connected_weather_station_8Jauus.png
|Step_Picture_03=Connected_weather_station_w8Whpo.png
|Step_Picture_04=Connected_weather_station_nD8Biu.png
|Step_Picture_05=Connected_weather_station_TyvTuP.png
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Program the ESP32 board</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Launch arduino IDE and open [https://drive.google.com/open?id=1qojsMLKxtJ1t5BSFP7_4LXAHF2UPVZJM this ]program.

Select the board you re using from the Tools menu, as well as the correct Port.

Upload the code.

If upload is successful, you should be able to see a message from Blynk on the serial monitor.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Connected_weather_station_B78Ltc.png
}}
{{Notes
|Notes=<translate>== List of parts ==
1x ESP32 board + usb power cable

1x DHT11 sensor

1x light sensor

1x 10 Kohm resistor

1x CJMCU CCS811 sensor

several jumper wires

a number of breadboards or a PCB (if you decide to do some soldering)

female headers (if you decide to do the soldering).</translate>
}}
{{PageLang
|Language=en
|SourceLanguage=none
|IsTranslation=0
}}
{{Tuto Status
|Complete=Draft
}}

E-Textile Monster

2020-01-28T15:43:23Z

Digijeunes : Page créée avec « {{Tuto Details |Main_Picture=E-Textile_Monster_FG9MDO8K3XFLLCR.LARGE.jpg |Main_Picture_annotation={"version":"2.4.6","objects":[{"type":"image","version":"2.4.6","originX"... »

{{Tuto Details
|Main_Picture=E-Textile_Monster_FG9MDO8K3XFLLCR.LARGE.jpg
|Main_Picture_annotation={"version":"2.4.6","objects":[{"type":"image","version":"2.4.6","originX":"left","originY":"top","left":26,"top":1,"width":940,"height":788,"fill":"rgb(0,0,0)","stroke":null,"strokeWidth":0,"strokeDashArray":null,"strokeLineCap":"butt","strokeDashOffset":0,"strokeLineJoin":"miter","strokeMiterLimit":4,"scaleX":0.57,"scaleY":0.57,"angle":0,"flipX":false,"flipY":false,"opacity":1,"shadow":null,"visible":true,"clipTo":null,"backgroundColor":"","fillRule":"nonzero","paintFirst":"fill","globalCompositeOperation":"source-over","transformMatrix":null,"skewX":0,"skewY":0,"crossOrigin":"","cropX":0,"cropY":0,"src":"https://wikifab.org/images/3/39/E-Textile_Monster_FG9MDO8K3XFLLCR.LARGE.jpg","filters":[]}],"height":450.1818181818182,"width":600}
|Description=<translate>E-textile monsters are soft plush toys with embedded electronics. They can be designed and created by young participants who can create circuits with simple electronic components such as LEDs. This activity also adds a switch to make components work when part of the monster is squeezed.</translate>
|Area=Electronics
|Type=undefined
|Difficulty=Hard
|Duration=11
|Duration-type=month(s)
|Cost=1
|Currency=USD ($)
}}
{{Introduction
|Introduction=<translate>This activity can be used to introduce the theory of simple circuits to young participants and with the inclusion of a home made switch it can demonstrate the importance of a closed circuit. It can be used to talk about specific components such as LEDs and their requirements when being built into a circuit.

More sophisticated iterations of the activity could include a programmable board (Arduino or ESP32). There could be further stages for participants to also make the e-textile monster controllable remotely via a smartphone.

Objectives and Learning Outcomes of this activity:

- To create something which integrates electronic components with textiles

- Allows for creativity and design

- To think about how the design can effect the function (including a switch)

- To learn about simple circuitry

- To learn about basic circuit components

- To use basic sewing skills

- To give an introduction to combining two different disciplines for the creation of something new

=== Supplies: ===
For simple circuit E-textile monster:

- Felt

- Thread and needle

- Conductive thread

- Stuffing

- LEDs (or other simple electrical components)

- Battery pack and batteries

- Material for switch (tin foil or other metallic material such as copper strips)</translate>
}}
{{Materials}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Design Your Monster</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>This is where you need to decide what shape you want your monster to be and what components it will include. You need to make sure there is room for each of your components and the battery pack as well as decide where you want to squeeze the monster for the components to turn on.

TIP: do not make your monster too big making your circuit components too spread out! Otherwise you will spend a long time sewing to connect the components together</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=E-Textile_Monster_FUTYL3LK437EKAY.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=E-Textile_Monster_FEVPRMCK437EKBM.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Create a Template of Your Monster Shape</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Using card, draw out the shape of your monster and cut it out.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=E-Textile_Monster_F071G2MK437EKB0.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Cut Out Your Monster in Felt</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Fold the felt in half and draw out the design onto the felt using the template.

Make sure there is a part of the body that lies over the crease so that the back and front remain together after being cut out (as shown in the pictures).</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=E-Textile_Monster_FSWRL98K437EKB1.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=E-Textile_Monster_FAM77VQK437EKB2.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Draw Out the Circuit</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>It is always best to draw out the circuit before you start making it to see how every needs to be connected.

This is also a great pedagogical tool and can be a time to talk about the different components in the circuit and how they work, as well as the importance of a closed circuit for the flow of current.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=E-Textile_Monster_FPP4590K437EKB5.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Test LEDs</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Check your LEDs work by touching each leg of the LED with a wire from the battery pack.

The LED will only work in one orientation, as there is an Anode (positive connection - long leg) and a Cathode (negative connection - short leg), meaning that the current is only able to flow through the LED in one direction.

Keep note of which cable from the battery pack needs to be connected to each leg of the LED. It will be important to get this right when putting your monster together.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=E-Textile_Monster_F7M51BOK437EKB6.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Sew in Pocket for Battery Pack</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Cut out a small square of felt. Sew this onto the inside of what will be the back of the monster.

Sew along 3 edges so that the battery pack can slide in from the top.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=E-Textile_Monster_F2PGGJZK437EKB7.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Sew Battery Pack Into Place</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>You will need one cable of the battery pack travelling towards the front piece of your monster (where the LEDs will be) and the other cable travelling towards where you want your switch to be (where you will squeeze the monster to make the components work).

Sew these cables into place as shown in the picture.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=E-Textile_Monster_FHFJJDPK437EKBF.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Sew to Connect Battery Pack to First LED</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Pierce the LEDs through the front piece of the monster, where they need to be positioned. Make sure they have the correct orientation so that the first leg is the correct one to connect with the cable coming from the battery pack.

Using the conductive thread, connect the cable of the battery pack to this leg of the LED. Sew repeatedly over the exposed end of the battery pack and the leg of the LED to ensure that there is a connection.</translate>
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Sew to Connect LEDs</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>This part of the activity can be a good point to stop and introduce the idea of circuits in series and in parallel. With more than one LED being used, a decision should be made on how they will be connected.

In this example we have kept it simple by connecting them in series.

For this, check that the second LED is in the same orientation as the first and connect the 2nd leg of the first LED with the 1st leg of the second LED.

At this point you can check that the first LED works by touching the other battery pack cable with your needle and thread (closing the circuit).</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=E-Textile_Monster_FOSAANWK437EKBH.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=E-Textile_Monster_FQZ0I8XK437EKBJ.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Create the Switch and Complete the Circuit</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>For the switch you will need to position 2 pieces of metallic material (this can be copper strips or even just tin foil) on either side of the monster. They need to line up when the monster is folded.

Stick these pieces in place. These pieces then need to be connected into the circuit using the conductive thread.

From the leg of the LED that currently is not connected to anything, sew to the metallic patch. Make sure to sew a few stitches into the metallic patch to ensure that the current flows through it.

Complete the circuit on the back piece by connecting the end of the cable to the metallic patch with the conductive thread. Make sure connections are made well at each end.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=E-Textile_Monster_FW8ZRLQK437EKBB.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=E-Textile_Monster_FDOLOLVK437EKBG.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Sew on Extra Features</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Add extra features to your monster, like a mouth, by cutting out felt and sewing it on.

Make sure to sew on a patch so that you know where to squeeze it to make the components work.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=E-Textile_Monster_FAQAZG9K437EKBK.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Sew Together and Stuff Your Monster</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Sew around the monster closing up the body. A blanket stitch tends to work well for this. Make sure to leave a gap at the end so that you can add the stuffing.

Through the gap, add the stuffing. Use a pencil to push it into the corners.

Make sure you do not over stuff where the metallic patches are. It is important that the monster is stuffed enough so that when not squeezed, the metallic patches do not touch, but when squeezed they are able to come into contact with each other. Make sure to try it out before sewing up the final part.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=E-Textile_Monster_FRQPDTTK437EKBL.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Sew Up the Final Part</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Sew up your monster so that all the stuffing stays in.

You now have your monster!!

Press on your switch and watch him light up!</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=E-Textile_Monster_FHZ4A1KK437ELW9.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=E-Textile_Monster_F6ZTL62K437ELWB.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Notes
|Notes=<translate></translate>
}}
{{PageLang
|SourceLanguage=none
|IsTranslation=0
|Language=en
}}
{{Tuto Status
|Complete=Draft
}}

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Glowing LED Butterfly

2020-01-28T15:35:40Z

Digijeunes : Page créée avec « {{Tuto Details |Main_Picture=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FO4GIQCK437ENEG.LARGE.jpg |Main_Picture_annotation={"version":"2.4.6","objects":[{"type":"image","version":"2.4.6","orig... »

{{Tuto Details
|Main_Picture=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FO4GIQCK437ENEG.LARGE.jpg
|Main_Picture_annotation={"version":"2.4.6","objects":[{"type":"image","version":"2.4.6","originX":"left","originY":"top","left":32,"top":1,"width":940,"height":788,"fill":"rgb(0,0,0)","stroke":null,"strokeWidth":0,"strokeDashArray":null,"strokeLineCap":"butt","strokeDashOffset":0,"strokeLineJoin":"miter","strokeMiterLimit":4,"scaleX":0.57,"scaleY":0.57,"angle":0,"flipX":false,"flipY":false,"opacity":1,"shadow":null,"visible":true,"clipTo":null,"backgroundColor":"","fillRule":"nonzero","paintFirst":"fill","globalCompositeOperation":"source-over","transformMatrix":null,"skewX":0,"skewY":0,"crossOrigin":"","cropX":0,"cropY":0,"src":"https://wikifab.org/images/2/27/Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FO4GIQCK437ENEG.LARGE.jpg","filters":[]}],"height":450.1818181818182,"width":600}
|Description=<translate>This activity is a great example of how Arduino can be integrated with a circuit to create something appealing to all ages and genders. It will introduce the participants to a new component (RGB strips) and is a great next step from simple circuitry as it involves more advanced techniques, such as soldering, and many different components such as a battery, switch, resistors and transistors.</translate>
|Area=Electronics
|Type=undefined
|Difficulty=Easy
|Duration=11
|Duration-type=month(s)
|Cost=1
|Currency=USD ($)
}}
{{Introduction
|Introduction=<translate>The glowing LED butterfly uses RGB strips programmed by Arduino to illuminate the 3D printed body. Here the example presents a butterfly design, but any shape could be used. The glowing of the strip and the colour pattern can be programmed using Arduino.

With the integration of a battery and a switch, the creation can be taken home and displayed anywhere. It is a fun and flexible activity which provides a slightly higher level of complexity and can be spread out over multiple sessions by integrating many different skills and techniques including 3D printing, soldering and electronic prototyping.

AGES: 11 to 18 years

TIME: 5+ hours

Activity's Aims and Learning Objectives

- Creating something more complex from the beginning, which also involves all stages such as designing and testing before making it more permanent and transportable.

- Working with small components that require patience and high levels of concentration

- Able to work flexibly and adapt the design or steps taken if something breaks or gets damaged throughout the process.

- Creating a functional object using different techniques from different disciplines.

- A project with a longer time frame which can help support time management. There are different sections of the activity that can be spread out across different sessions.

- Designing 3D printable object using TinkerCAD

- Using a 3D printer to create a component

- Programming an Arduino and involving it in a circuit

- Using Arduino to create a programme which works with RGB strips and can change the lights as they wish

- Gain experience with electronic prototyping and testing circuits

- Gain experience with soldering and creating permanent circuits

- Learn about the different circuit components

- Creating something that is appealing to them

=== Supplies: ===
For the butterfly (or other design to glow)

- Computer with access to TinkerCAD

- 3D printer

- Felt (or other appropriate material for backing)

- Glue gun

For programming element

- Computer with Arduino software downloaded

- Arduino Uno board

For Circuits (temporary and permanent)

- RGB LED strips

- 3 x [100 to 220 ohm resistors]

- 3 x [NPN transistors such as TIP120]

- Multiple male to male solderless breadboard jumper cables

- Breadboard

- Wire

- Wire strippers

- Soldering iron

- Solder

- 9V battery

- 9V battery strap

- Small prototyping printed circuit board (PCB)

- Header pins (breakaway male)

- Switch (in this example we use a slide switch)

- heat shrink wrapping tubes (not necessary but are advised!)</translate>
}}
{{Materials}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Design Your Glowing Component on TinkerCAD</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Use TinkerCad to design the component that will be 3D printed. This is a great opportunity to develop your computer aided design (CAD) skills!

What to think about..

- Needs to have holes for the light to go through

- Needs to be big enough to hide the Arduino and PCB

- Needs to be able to sit on the top of the 9V battery

Pre-made butterfly design can be found through this link</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FDJ41W6K437ENEF.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FTAWQWKK437F1F7.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Print Out Your Design</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Save and download your design as a .stl and upload into your printer software.

Slice your design, making sure you pay attention to the printer settings. Things to think about..

- Is the highest quality necessary for this print?

- How could you save time on the printing?

- How could you save material on this print?

- Are supports needed anywhere? Do you have any large amounts of overhang?

- Should you add a raft to help with the removal of the print from the machine?

Upload onto a SD card or USB stick (depending on your printer) and hit print!</translate>
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Create Your Temporary Tester Circuit</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Set up a temporary circuit using a bread board and solderless jumper cables.

Set up your circuit as shown in the diagram

Things to note:

- There is a transistor for each of the Red, Blue and Green inputs of the RGB strip

- Each transistor has 3 pins, one for GROUND, one for SIGNAL INPUT and one for SIGNAL OUTPUT

- The signal input pin of each transistor is connected to a pin on the Arduino board which will be controlled by the Arduino code - this will tell it when this colour should illuminate or not.

- The signal output pin of each transistor is connected to the corresponding connection on the RGB strip.

- The Vin pin from the Arduino is connected to the 12V+ connection point on the RGB strip. This means that the power source is coming the computer when it is connected rather than a battery</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_F6SG84TK437F1OJ.LARGE.gif
|Step_Picture_01=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FVA57QFK437ENEL.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_02=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FP9TD46K437ENFV.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Coding Your Arduino</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>To check that your new temporary circuit works, you need to code your Arduino.

Insert this basic code into your Arduino window and upload it to the board. If uploaded successfully, your RGB strip should start to glow.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1mJ-rji0tkuz_fEMDP0bslL46oOHOpRaGKp9tPOCiM_A

IMPORTANT: The voltage the strip is receiving is much lower than 12V, therefore the LEDs will not be very bright and hard to see when they light up. You will need to pay close attention to see if they are working or not!</translate>
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Testing Your Temporary Circuit</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Now you know the code on the board is uploaded and working, you need to get more power to the RGB strip by using the 9V battery.

Insert the battery into the circuit by:

Connecting the negative port to a ground pin on the Arduino

Connect the positive port, via crocodile clip cable, to the crocodile clip which is connecting the Vin of the Arduino board to the 12V connection on the RGB strip. As shown in the picture. NOTE: This connection is so that the battery supplies energy to the Arduino board and the RGB strip.

Once all attached, your strip should light up a lot brighter!</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_F3596IEK437ENEJ.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_F7847C8K437ENFU.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Change Your Code</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Now that all of this working you can go back to Arduino and start to understand the code.

Here you can modify the code so that the lights flash in the sequence you would like and with different colours!

Some extra explanation of the code and different changes you can make are given below, but you will have to play around with it and the value for the outputs to make it illuminate in the colours and pattern you want!

When changing your code, some things to think about include:

- What colour do I want my butterfly to glow?

- Do you want your butterfly to change colours? How fast and how often?

- Do you want you butterfly to repeat its sequence or stop after a while?

- What values of r, g and b are needed for certain colours?

To test your code, make sure to re-plug in your board to the computer and upload it, then reconnect the board with the temporary circuit and watch your light show!

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1nIrkKnFvZsXjCcwkL9yXGUat_1BSNQKr6zOC6wpvwvc</translate>
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Create Your Permanent Circuit: Step 1 - Attach Pin Headers</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Now you know that everything works and your happy with your code, you can make everything more permanent by getting rid of the big crocodile clips and jumper cables and moving onto a prototyping circuit board.

You can gradually transfer your circuit from your breadboard onto your circuit board as you wish, but here are the steps we recommend you follow:

- Attach a 4 pin header and 8 pin header in the correct places to line up with the Vin, ground, ground pins and numbered pins (most importantly 3, 5 and 6) on the other side. Solder these into place</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FGG40V2K437ENG5.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Create Your Permanent Circuit: Step 2 - Attach Transistors and Ground</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>- Attach the 3 transistors at the top of the circuit board. Solder these into place.

- Ground the 3rd pin of each transistor by taking a wire from the header pin connected with the ground pin of the Arduino and connecting it to the 3rd pin of each transistor.

Make sure good connections are made with the solder. You should be able to do this with 2 pieces of wire as shown in the image.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FKA2EPJK437ENG7.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Create Your Permanent Circuit: Step 3 - Connect Resistors and Connecting Wires</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>- Connect resistors between the input pin of the transistor and the corresponding header pin.

These header pins should be the pins connected to the numbered pins on the Arduino. It is important that these match up with the pin numbers you assigned in the code. (e.g 3 = blue, 5 = red, 6 = green)

- Add wires to the transistor output pins, which will later connect to the RGB strip.

NOTE: best to keep these wires long, to make sure they reach the connections later on and length can be removed after.

- Add long wires to the header pins at Vin and a second ground pin on the Arduino board. These will be connected to the 12V connection on the RGB strip and battery later on.

NOTE: again, its best to keep these wires long so that they can reach their connections and the length can be removed after. Test your prototype circuit using crocodile clips, connecting the long wires to the correct connections (the 12V connection on RGB strip, the battery and the R, G and B connections on the RGB strip).</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_F3I3NO7K437ENG8.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Integrating Your Circuit With Your 3D Printed Component</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Now you have the circuit ready to go, you can create your glowing object!

Take your 3D printed piece and draw around it onto felt.

Cut out this felt to make a backing.

On this piece of felt work out where you would like to locate you RGB stripes. This may require you to cut up smaller strips and position them separately.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_F34AX5BK437ENFW.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_F5C8TIAK437EULW.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Connect Your RGB Strips If Needed</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>It is easiest to have just one connection point from the strips to your circuit board. For this you need to connect the different strips, either with solder if the pieces are close together (A) or with small pieces of wire (B), as shown in the picture.

In this example we have two connection points, coming from each side of the butterfly.

Check all your soldered connections work by using crocodile clips to connect up your butterfly with the circuit board, Arduino and battery.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FPT6JKPK437EUOC.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FFWZ2AZK437ENGD.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Attach Your Battery and Switch</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Now everything is tested, you can attach the battery to the bottom of the circuit board using a glue gun.

Attach the battery strap to the head of the battery.

Using a glue gun attach a switch to the top of the battery strap.

Connect the black wire (negative), from the battery strap, to the long wire coming from the ground pin of the Arduino (via the circuit board)

Connect the red wire (positive), from the battery strap, to the first pin of the switch.

Take the long wire connected to the Vin pin of the Arduino (via the circuit board), cut to length and solder to the middle pin of the switch. This will complete the circuit through the switch, so that it can control when the RGB strips will light up.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FR9EHP9K437ENGJ.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_01=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FWDMKYHK437ENGG.LARGE.jpg
|Step_Picture_02=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FRIWX4JK437ENGH.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Add Your Glowing Back to the 3D Printed Component</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Cut out another piece of felt the same size and shape as your butterfly (or 3D printed component).

Use the glue gun to stick this backing onto your 3D printed piece.

Use the glue gun to stick your felt with RGB strips onto your backed butterfly, so that the RGB strips are sandwiched between the two pieces of felt and stuck onto the back of the butterfly.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FBNXJ5BK437ENGE.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Connecting Your 3D Printed Part to the Circuit</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>If you only have ONE group of connection wires coming from the 3D printed component...

Connect the correct wire from the butterfly to the correct wire from the circuit board and transistors.

Solder the 2 wires together, making sure you reduce the length of the wire so that there is not a lot of excess when the butterfly sits on the battery.

Connect the 12V connection wire from the RGB strip to the middle pin of the switch (the same pin that the battery's +ve output, or red wire, is connected to).

If you have TWO groups of connection wires coming from the 3D printed component...

You will need to connect these together at the back of the butterfly.

You can directly solder the two wires together or add additional wire between them. You will want them to join near the top of the butterfly so they can be easily accessed and connected to the wires coming from the circuit board.

Cut out a third piece of felt, the same size and shape as the butterfly and stick this over the top using the glue gun, hiding any unnecessary wires, but insuring a small part of the connected wires are poking out so that they can be connected with the wires from the circuit board and battery.

Now follow the instruction above for ONE group of connection wires to finish the connections with the circuit board.

NOTE:

You can use shrinking plastic wraps to get rid of any unwanted exposed wire. It may be best to label the wires with the colour/connection as you go to make sure the correct connections are made.</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FHA81PYK48Z81B1.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Tuto Step
|Step_Title=<translate>Watch Your Butterfly Glow!</translate>
|Step_Content=<translate>Now you should be able to switch your switch and watch your butterfly glow!

Position your butterfly onto the battery and attach with a glue gun.

Decorate you butterfly with glitter, paint or sequences that will shine as it glows!</translate>
|Step_Picture_00=Glowing_LED_Butterfly_FQW0YDBK437EPLB.LARGE.jpg
}}
{{Notes
|Notes=<translate></translate>
}}
{{PageLang
|SourceLanguage=none
|IsTranslation=0
|Language=en
}}
{{Tuto Status
|Complete=Draft
}}

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2020-01-28T15:29:14Z

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